I have a 96 nissan altima.  I have disconnected both oxygen sensors (check engine light did not come on).  I don't know why.  I also have a variable resistor (pot) on the leads to the mass air flow sensor, which I can lean out far enough to stall the engine.  This works for me. 

I have an idea about vaporization.  The normal engine has radiator coolant going through the intake manifold to warm it up for better fuel vaporization.  Is it possible to run hot exhaust through these passages instead of radiator coolant to heat it up far more?  Without damaging anything.  Any ideas?

Thanks

just to let everyone know this exact method of pulling the air through the fuel was first created by eagle research back in the 70's and he sells kits for carb and efi systems....

the guy who runs this site is an expert and is completely legitimate and experienced...he has step by step videos of how to make the kit too.

http://www.eagle-research.com/

Yay verily kind vapour experimenter people, here are some important points to consider ( and will make your life easier.....)

(1) If you run fumes, you need to run water injection as most normal car engines require  20% - 30% of fuel being unburnt in order to keep the exhaust valves cool by the exhaust vales being spalshed with the unburnt fuel ( this is a fact ). Water injection stops the exhaust valves being burnt out by lean running ( which is what running on fumes is ) by substituting water for the unburnt fuel. In theory too using water injection and fumes you could run even higher compression ratios with a turbo than is currently possible. This would allow a very lean and high power motor.

(2) You dont need to be worried about the existing engine computer on your car - if you run fumes you effectively make it redundant as its set up for liquid fuel operation, not fumes. A fumes system becomes a faily mechnical/analog system and is as complicated as a 1950s car. You could ( until you want to start squeezing more efficiency out of it ) turn off the computer and it would work fine anyways. Later you might be able to adapt the engine computer but it would require possibly different sensors located in different spots on the engine etc.

(3) You can buy aftermarket ECU ( Engine Control Unit / what we call the engine computer ) that allow you to put in a full custom engine map ( engine program ). Most after-market car performance tuners will build a map for you and probably cost $2000 ( a guess... ) but the end result would be worth it. You can buy or download DIY software for laptops I believe that will allow you to tune the engine as you drive.
If a few people want to get together, you could develop a map for one fume car, then share that map to others as needed - a sort of ECU Shareware project. You could also develop locations for sensors and use basic off the shelf cheap ones to allow others to get a fume based vehicle running cheaply. Remember simple is robust.

(4) If you ran a water/gas mix ( like a GEET set up ), you already have water injection from the water vapour in the fuel. However in very cold parts of the country this may be an issue.

My 2 cents.....

Howdy Y'all,

Check this out...

http://www.zpenergy.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=3041

Make better separation of the gasoline molecules by ionizing them...

Blessed Be...

This is not a new tech, its basically what the magnet gizmo do on the fuel line without any input current!

(http://img366.imageshack.us/img366/6194/vaportv4.th.jpg)(http://img366.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif)Here are some of the components of my vaporizer. It's being enstalled on a old pre-emissions car. When the fuel is burnt more completely "in" the cly. The exhaust and the exhaust valve will be cooler.