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Author Topic: this pyramid should produce electricity. (thomas trawoger's pyramid explaned.)  (Read 104533 times)

Offline xee

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@ AbbaRue
Link to Galvanic series chart. Lists metals in order of electronegativity.

http://www.corrosionsource.com/handbook/galv_series.htm

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Offline Drannom

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    • Cristallerie La Pyramide d'Alun
Quote
3:
construct the pyramid, so that each side is positioned 45 degree's from the pyramids floor.
(4 triangles which are 52 degree's at their base-angles, will do this.)


in fact this is 42 degree exactly not 45

look my shema here http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,3701.0.html

Offline nitinnun

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fine. 52 point whatever will produce 45 degree's.

but even 42 degree's is more than acceptable as a margin of error. the 3 degree's off would hardly make a difference on a 2 food wide pyramid.

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Offline jacek

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Hi folks,

Slightly off-topic, but hopefully an interesting read. This fellow shows how the designer(s) of The Great One might have come up with the dimensions. Cool stuff.

http://www.ianjamescolmer.com/pyramid.htm

J.

Offline nightwynd

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Cool looking design, and a very interesting take on what the pyramids were used for. I don't know or care if it's been proven either way, so I'll just jump right into some design questions i've got.

Quote
* place a copper "peak-plate" onto the peak.
(copper, bismuth, or any "positive" metal should work.)

* the peak-plate should be shaped like a pyramid.
(as if the peak-plate were its very own pyramid.)

* this peak-plate should have sides, and be thick.
the thicker the peak-plate is, the better it should work.

This peak-plate?are you saying to just cover the top part of the pyramid with copper foil, or to actually construct the entire top portion of the pyramid from copper only?

Quote
* the copper cap-plate and the aluminum base wrapping should NEVER touch electrically.
because you want them to function like a capacitor.
if the peak and base touch, they will short each others charge out.

Easy enough to understand...touch=short. So what would be an acceptable gap on the 2' pyramid? A couple milimeters? or are we talkin about a fraction?

Quote
* place an "antennae" as far up into the pyramids peak as possible.
(a chunk of metal soldered to the end of a wire, counts as an antennae. this peak-antennae just needs to collect energy, as per a television antennae.)

* this peak antennae should NOT electrically connect with the peak-plate.
(that would most likely screw up the peak-plates energy activity.)

* the peak-antennae should NEVER touch anything which is negatively charged, or anything which is grounded. if the peak-antennae touches the ground, it will short out. and it will dump the positive energy in the positive half of the capacitor, into the ground!

Anyone else find this confusing? So you push a wire (antenna) up inside the (obviously hollow) pyramid, up close to, but not touching the top peak. But it can't touch anything... so how exactly do you secure this antenna in place? I'm envisioning a wire dangling from just inside the top of the pyramid and dangling down to nearly brush the base...

Quote
* place a second antennae in the base of the pyramid, DIRECTLY under the peak. this base-antennae should be grounded to something.
(if the base antennae is attached to aluminum wrapped around the pyramids base, than "grounding" is unneccesary. because the aluminum will act as the "negative". the dirt outside is just one big "negative" anyway. the dirt outside can be replaced with another "negative", for a similar result.)

Again...slightly confusing. So you've got an antenna dropping down from the peak, and since the peak is in the center, it will be lining up directly to the second antenna coming from the ground. I'm assuming then, that these two antenna cannot touch?

I'll try posting a pic of this I mocked up in GMAX to see if I got it right...

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Offline nightwynd

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Oh...just in case anyone should wonder, I used the same dimensional proportions for the pyramid as the ones in Egypt :) Just looks better that way for some reason...

Let me know what changes (if any) I need to make to the model and I'll get'er done and re-post. Once this thing is fleshed out a bit more in my mind i'll begin construction.

For now, i'm off to bed and my usually dreamless sleep. I'll check back in the am for updates, and prolly post again tomorrow evening. Ciao.

Offline nitinnun

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1: the peak of the pyramid just needs to have copper on it. this copper must be electrically connected, into a pyramid.
as long as nothing electically conductive is touching it (screwing up the flow of magnetism), it should be fine.


2: there is no penalty for having the copper and aluminum close together. so long as they never touch.

i recommend covering the edge of both metals with an insulator. then spacing them however close is convenient.

but the further apart they are spaced, the more magnetic current will bleed out of this spacing. because the energy is lazing, and doesn't want to go all the way down to the base, if it doesn't have too.


3: the antenna may touch any "non-conductor". but must only "electrically touch" the capacitor, which it is connected too.

i wanted to run both antenna's under the base, and up into the pyramid.

the base antenna can be wherever works best.
but i wanted to secure the peak antenna to a zip tie bridge, which is between the peak-half and the base-half.

the peak antenna itself, should be as high up in the peak as possible. without electrically touching the peak.
the higher it is, the closer to the "positive sweet spot" it will be.


4: i should have said it this way:

place the peak antenna, in the positive area of the pyramids magnetic field.
place the base antenna, in the negative area if the pyramids magnetic field.

the peak in general is positive, and the base in general is negative.
but the places where these two charges are "strongest", is where i tried to describe.

the further the antenna's are from these "sweet spots", the less current you will receive.

the less current you receive, the less magnetism will be forced into the capacitor. giving the appearance of lower voltage/amperage.

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Offline nitinnun

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that pyramid design looks fine.
it is fine if the entire inside is hollow. because the effect is due to the 4 sides. not the interior.


you may have to experiment with where/how you connect the antenna's. but that is easy to do.

don't forget that the capacitor may need to be charged up, to get the reaction started. but even this may not be neccessary.

be cautious about grounding. something may be grounded/shorted somewhere, without you realizing it.

Offline nitinnun

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i thought about it.

if the pyramid in Giza still had its gold cap-plate, and you touched it, than nothing would happen to you. because you would be standing on the brick pyramid right under the peak-plate, which is non-conductive. and there for not grounded.

the positive peak does nothing to you, because it is only half of the polarity needed, to create electricity.
the other half is way down there, where it cannot get you.

so. since the peak-plate is only half, and cannot touch the ground, what does it matter if the peak-plate is connected electrically to the capacitor?


someone should connect the peak antenna to the cap-plate, to be see exactly what happens.
someone should also try "floating" the base-antenna. to see exactly what happens.

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Offline Shanti

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Well your pyramid reminds me exactly of a device I once made. It delivers energy from the "air":

I came upon this when I discussed with someone, why the Thestatika does have grilles on the wheels.
I then said, that it can't be an influence machine, for in an influence machine you actually try as much as possible to prevent corona discharge. But a grille has many edges and therefore the corona discharges would be drastical.
Then it made click. They want to have the corona discharge! This is the principle how the wheels work. If you have a charged plate (but isolated) or even better an electret. If you now place something metal on top with sharp edges (grille), the potential at the edges will be much higher, and therefore you will have there a corona discharge. But then, you have less charges in the grille electrode, than needed to compensate the electret, and therefore a current will flow in the grille to equalize this. But (un)fortunately this current will also become lost in a corona discharge.
I then made a little prototype to see, if the theory works, and it does. With a grille of about half the size of a hand I could lit up a lamp every few seconds. 
Sure this works only if the air is moving, otherwise the air around the grille gets charged up, and it will work much less efficient. (This is why the wheels on the Thestatika have to turn). I made it stationary, and therefore have to blow a bit air at it every now and then.

I think this pyramid thing is exactly the same!
The top is ideal for a corona discharge, for the electric potential at the top will be much higher than anywhere else in the top piece of metal. And due to the shape of the pyramid a steady flow along the sides of the pyramid from bottom to top will very likely develop, which is needed for continuous operation.
The other metal part at the bottom is needed to "charge" the air prior in the other direction. Well it's not really needed (my device uses the electret for that), but it surely will increase the efficiency the better, the more negative the bottom metal is.
And there I think it's different than you mentioned. I think, you should take a metal which is very negative on the bottom, but very positive on the top, so that you have a maximum difference.
But I think one should take the redox potential of the metals for this (these say actually which metals like electrons more or less, this is how batteries work). So I don't think it has anything to do with diamagnetics, etc. At least not, if it works like my device.
If it works like that, then a gold top and a lithium bottom would be the best you can do. For gold is the most positive metal (+1.69V) and lithium (-3.05 ) the most negative one. For the actual metals you can get cheaply, certainly copper (+0.52V )aluminium (-1.66V) is quite a good choice.
So from the basic principle this is kind like an air battery, but the atmosphere will always try to balance the charges, and therefrom comes the energy. (It's actually kinetic energy from the air, that gets translated into electrical energy)

But as I calculated and also saw from my prototype, you can't get much energy like that. Otherwise you would need huge installations! I think a little Fan motor for the size of pyramid you suggest would just be about in that range that I think is realistic to drive.
This was actually the reason why I didn't spent more time in this direction. Nice FE fro demonstrations purposes, but not really usable in respect to the amount of energy you can get.
BTW: I think this is only used in the Thestatika to generate some HV, but in a way, which doesn't need energy. Then they have a second OU principle in the chars which somehow generates hugh amounts of energy from this HV. I think it's something similar to the ed gray tube...

Offline nightwynd

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Do you think the design of the top antenna would have any kind of effect on output? Example: shape the antenna head exactly like the top of the pyramid so the surface area is very close together, or would a spherical ball type be better? (I ask because I honestly don't know).

Also, one other little observation: The pyramid at giza was oriented directly towards true north, not magnetic north. If this thing is getting power from earth's magnetic field, that kind of defeats that possibility doesn't it?

I'll be back in a couple hours, and then i'll try to work on the model a bit more - add in the capacitor and such.

Nightwynd.

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Offline nightwynd

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Okay, 3d work is done, have a new model to show. I put in some better colors for the tip and base, added in the wires and such, and labelled it a bit more clearly. Also have an insulation gap. The only thing I'm not really showing, or am going to attempt, is how to keep that top antenna up there. A simple wood / plastic holder would do nicely I suppose.

Thoughts on the design, comments, or criticisms are welcome. I'll implement any desired change as soon as I'm able. I'll be around for a few more hours tonight yet, so the sooner the better. Once the 3d design is firmed up, I think I'll go hit the hardware store and get me some wood so I can try building this thing...


Nightwynd.

Offline nitinnun

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note that the "well" at the bottom of the great pyramid, is where the base antenna would be.


the Egyptians used the dirt as their ground, instead of aluminum sides.
because the amount of grounding they needed was huge (due to the power of their huge gold cap-plate!).
their pyramid was also too big to move, and the dirt was more convenient than who knows how much aluminum.


our problem, is that the ground has to be where the well is. within the negative sweet spot of the pyramids magnetic field. and pinpoint grounding isn't so convenient for us in this screwed up modern age.

if the ground is not where the well is, than the negatively charged magnetic current, is not charging up the capacitor.
so we use the aluminum as the ground, and have the base antenna in place of the well.

Offline wile_coyote7

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IDEA:

To attach the top antenna, fasten it to one of the side supports of the pyramid, between the top and bottom (the insulating gap) using a nonconducting material like wood or plastic to hold it into position.

I still don't know what to make the antenna tip with though. I was thinking of using a frayed wire for the tip.

Offline martinzurix

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use the baloon and wire...  but bee careful to get hit by lighting !!!

 

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