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Author Topic: Hubbard coil  (Read 371427 times)

quarktoo

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #375 on: January 13, 2011, 11:10:40 AM »
A recent find for those interested in replicating.

I went to home depot and bought some 3/8 X 6" galvanized pipe nipples to use for cores on a replication and after lathing off the zinc and creating a thinner wall to reduce eddy currents and drilling out the centers I had a super nice coil form and core.

Here is the part that matters:
1. The pipe has zero permanence like hard steel does. I.e., it retains no magnetic charge.

2. It is attracted to a magnet better than flat sheet iron used in appliances even though the round surface only comes into a tiny bit of contact with the magnet.

Using the law of inverse squares between the wire and core, that little space that a plastic spool produces matters a bunch and the importance of the distance between the wire/cores core to core is noted in the notes.

As far as the resonance comment, that is BS. This is a rotating magnetic field concept and anyone that has bothered to look at the notes can see that. The outer 8 coils are wired in series parallel so they can only come up one at a time. I think Tesla may have used nine to produce a more 3D rotating space I.e., 3 coils moving through 3 stations.

The unexplained Faraday disk puzzle located near the bottom of this page:

http://keelytech.com/stubblefield.html

may hold more of the answer to the puzzle than anything I have heard so far.

« Last Edit: January 13, 2011, 02:46:10 PM by quarktoo »

Paul-R

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #376 on: January 13, 2011, 01:37:58 PM »
As far as the resonance comment, that is BS. This is a rotating magnetic field concept and anyone that has bothered to look at the notes can see that.
If you have a circuit with any combination of L, R or C and it is driven by an
oscillating driving voltage, then you will have a resonance issue.

zuvrick

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #377 on: September 09, 2011, 07:37:44 AM »
This thread seems to have frozen itself about six months ago. Anyway, I've been lurking and following it through. My opinion is that too much speculation about the Hubbard design has gone one with nearly no reference to Joseph Cater's detailed description of a similar unit in his books (The Awesome Life Force is what I have). What I think is really important about Cater's comments is the distance between the coil turns, which he packs with iron powder, and the distance between layers of the secondary coil. He has goo arguments for this. I am going to try to replicate one of these in a few months and see where it leads. Cater, of course, never built one but he says if his instructions are followed carefully you should have success. He cites one or two apparent sloppy replications that were allegedly OU. I may have trouble finding thin iron sheet here in Indonesia (where everything rusts so quickly), but will try to do gold plating using brushed-on plating after the iron layer is in place, rather than trying to plate one side and mask the other in a plating tank. I'm trying to reason out what else might be plated on the iron to keep it from oxidation (assuming zinc galvanizing is not recommended). Nickel? Silver? Copper? What is wrong with zinc?

Is anyone still lukewarm on this project?  ---zuvrick

TEKTRON

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #378 on: September 09, 2011, 07:55:00 AM »


Is anyone still lukewarm on this project?  ---zuvrick
It is still on my watch list. :o ;D

PhiChaser

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #379 on: December 11, 2011, 07:05:18 PM »
Hello all,
Is anyone still working on this project (or something similar)? I've ordered some materials to build a Hubbard 'type' device.
My thoughts on the Hubbard Coil: It was a SIMPLE divice with NO radioactive elements, just metal, wire and some plastic.
With that being said; If you wind wire around a piece of iron and then cut the iron into equal lengths without cutting the wire, you can see how a big long coil can be turned into many short coils where the wrappings alternate up and down each 'rod' AND keep the current moving (increasing) in the same direction (so that the magnetic fields combine). I visualize a sort of pumping effect here; two corkscrews twisting into each other comes to mind as well... Imagine four figure-eights so that the start of the coils tie to the end of the coils (in a moebius loop). This gives you an infinite (induction) loop. If you wrap it bifiliar and connect opposite ends you have two 'loops' AND you can also 'pinch' the current as well as 'push' it!! One wrapping not only inducts from the other wires on the same core, it also does so from the adjacent cores (more combining magnetic fields!) and (probably) a little from the ones at 90 degrees to those (which is at least half of them!). I think the 'push' (i.e. magnetic field coupling/current increase) would be more than the 'pinch' (i.e. loss/reduction of same)
It makes sense to me that the central winding is charged with INDUCTED power from the outer 8 coils (no/minimal power loss!).  The central core (and consequently the coil itself) has to be a little bigger (I think) because it needs a stronger magnetic field to keep the 'stray' potentials from 'leaving' the outer coils altogether. It seems to me that an added outer winding could give output as well. If an outer winding is used (needed?) then the inner and outer windings should be 1/4, 1/2, or full (wave) lengths of each other (Smith) to make oscillation easier (guessing here...?).
Shape relationships I believe are important. Those figure eights have sinusoidal waveforms built into them!
The trick is 'trapping' that 'flow' in those eight coils indefinitely. Leedskalnin's PMH anyone?!? Seems logical (to me) that the central core mass keeps the process together (speculation...). What to use for a core material? Crushed neos?? Anyways,  I'm looking forward to getting started and building something! Will post more when I have more to post. ;)
Love the forum, keep up the research!!
PC
"If no one builds it nothing will change..."

TEKTRON

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #380 on: December 12, 2011, 05:13:12 AM »
What to use for a core material?
I think I would try brake rotor shavings ( free from brake shop) and mix with epoxy. I made a beautiful toroid in a jello mold and trued it up on a lathe. haven't wound it yet. no time to experiment now :'(

forest

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #381 on: December 12, 2011, 08:12:47 AM »
Hello all,
Is anyone still working on this project (or something similar)? I've ordered some materials to build a Hubbard 'type' device.
My thoughts on the Hubbard Coil: It was a SIMPLE divice with NO radioactive elements, just metal, wire and some plastic.
With that being said; If you wind wire around a piece of iron and then cut the iron into equal lengths without cutting the wire, you can see how a big long coil can be turned into many short coils where the wrappings alternate up and down each 'rod' AND keep the current moving (increasing) in the same direction (so that the magnetic fields combine). I visualize a sort of pumping effect here; two corkscrews twisting into each other comes to mind as well... Imagine four figure-eights so that the start of the coils tie to the end of the coils (in a moebius loop). This gives you an infinite (induction) loop. If you wrap it bifiliar and connect opposite ends you have two 'loops' AND you can also 'pinch' the current as well as 'push' it!! One wrapping not only inducts from the other wires on the same core, it also does so from the adjacent cores (more combining magnetic fields!) and (probably) a little from the ones at 90 degrees to those (which is at least half of them!). I think the 'push' (i.e. magnetic field coupling/current increase) would be more than the 'pinch' (i.e. loss/reduction of same)
It makes sense to me that the central winding is charged with INDUCTED power from the outer 8 coils (no/minimal power loss!).  The central core (and consequently the coil itself) has to be a little bigger (I think) because it needs a stronger magnetic field to keep the 'stray' potentials from 'leaving' the outer coils altogether. It seems to me that an added outer winding could give output as well. If an outer winding is used (needed?) then the inner and outer windings should be 1/4, 1/2, or full (wave) lengths of each other (Smith) to make oscillation easier (guessing here...?).
Shape relationships I believe are important. Those figure eights have sinusoidal waveforms built into them!
The trick is 'trapping' that 'flow' in those eight coils indefinitely. Leedskalnin's PMH anyone?!? Seems logical (to me) that the central core mass keeps the process together (speculation...). What to use for a core material? Crushed neos?? Anyways,  I'm looking forward to getting started and building something! Will post more when I have more to post. ;)
Love the forum, keep up the research!!
PC
"If no one builds it nothing will change..."


 :D :D :D I like your idea. I would like to see schematic, maybe I can help

PhiChaser

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #382 on: December 12, 2011, 03:34:14 PM »
Thanks Loner!
A couple things that I ran into over the weekend (sort of): The old basic electrical book I have from college doesn't have ANYTHING about transformers sharing magnetic fields, just the standard series/parallel equations when the fields are NOT affecting each other. Any help on this one? Pretty sure this thing needs to have all those coils as close as possible for minimum loss/maximum potential. It worked because the fields combined and didn't collapse! (My thoughts anyways...)
The second thing was the 5 time constants to build up or break down a magnetic field. Visualizing this sort of thing as it travels through the wires and up and down those steel rods seems like there would be a magnetic 'rippling' effect almost (like water makes?!). Maybe 2 of 3 windings are increasing the magnetic field (5 of 8?) while the other(1) is 'pinching' it...
Can't wait for my metal to arrive...
Any thoughts on starting this thing when I get it built? Core material? Grounding?? Capacitance???
PC
Thanks for the steel pipe info Quark!!! THAT is exactly the kind of stuff that should be kept easy to reference! ;) Nice!

Paul-R

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #383 on: December 12, 2011, 05:50:40 PM »
If you wind wire around a piece of iron and then cut the iron into equal lengths
Yes, but -
It should be iron, and not steel since the iron sheds its magnetism quickly when
the current is removed.

PhiChaser

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #384 on: December 13, 2011, 03:04:34 AM »
Yes, but -
It should be iron, and not steel since the iron sheds its magnetism quickly when
the current is removed.
Soft iron is about impossible to find in any quantities that can be really utilized and fit within my budget. The steel I have ordered is 1018 cold rolled (specs below).
C 0.14 - 0.2 
Fe 98.81 - 99.26  <<mostly iron eh?
Mn 0.6 - 0.9 
P 0.04 max 
S 0.05 max 
The current should be trapped in the coils (my hypothesis) and resonate (or wobble enough to keep going anyways).  Like a Hendershot device or a PMH, I think this thing needs a kick to start it and then it resonates all by itself (hopefully right?).
How to start (test) it? Use a homemade cattle prod?? Should I consider iron filings (packed into iron pipe?) for the center coil core maybe? I'm hoping to be able to easily change the central coil for testing. Everything always looks better on paper!!
Ah, my thumbs are already getting sore just thinking about all those fun hours of winding wire around metal rods...
All my schematics end up looking like some kind of spiral thing, I'm sure they aren't correct but I will try again fresh. How do you draw one long induction rod that is actually eight seperate rods that all touch electrically but have 8 seperate polarities so are really 8 seperate rods? AND they surround (touch?) the central winding but don't electrically connect to it directly?
PC

edit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time_constant
There is a diagram under the heading "Relation of time constant to bandwidth" that is an "An example response of system to sine wave forcing function.". The idea I had (edit: I'm sure I'm not the first!) of how to start the thing. Pretty much try to momentarily subject the loops to a multifrequency jolt of current (of some sort) and hope for the best... One thing at a time heh heh...
And another interesting one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_flux_density
"An infinitely long cylindrical electromagnet has a uniform magnetic field inside, and no magnetic field outside." If the outer coils are tied to each other does this mean that the center magnet core is NOT affected by the exterior electromagnets?
« Last Edit: December 13, 2011, 05:41:46 AM by PhiChaser »

Paul-R

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #385 on: December 13, 2011, 06:23:13 PM »
Soft iron is about impossible to find in any quantities that can be really utilized and fit within my budget. The steel I have ordered is 1018 cold rolled (specs below).
C 0.14 - 0.2 
Fe 98.81 - 99.26  <<mostly iron eh?

Ordinary steel is ususally between 0.2 and 2%. Iron can be found in architectural
foundations since it is good re rust. I think it would pay to try and get iron.

I thought of trying to electroplate iron out of a Ferrous Sulphate solution, starting
with a wax candle covered in carbon dust, in order to end up with an iron tube.
(The candle would be melted out of the way). Pretty hard work. There must be a better way.

PhiChaser

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #386 on: December 14, 2011, 04:53:42 AM »
I think that the outer 8 coils just need to be (or able to be) electromagnets. The center core needs to be able to load up and dump a current but those outer coils will stay loaded (my speculation). Here is a pic of the eight coils drawn as iron core inductors in series wound bifiliar (being the same they are 1:1 transformers right?). The current keeps going round and round and round...

I'm not sure if this schematic is drawn properly at all. I know bifiliar windings are drawn differently but this looks close to a good representation of how the outside coils will be wired to me. The steel rods would be all magnetically tied together (alternating poles so they all attract to each other). Again, think one long piece of metal wound with wire in one direction, cut into multiple parts, then folded where the cuts are so that the current keeps going into the next rod spiraling in the opposite direction on the rod (N to S) but moving the current in the same direction where the conductors are sitting next to each other. I defer to you guys that know how to draw decent diagrams... How do you draw the center (or outside) coil in regards to this drawing?!? (I hope this is making sense heh heh...)

PhiChaser

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #387 on: December 19, 2011, 06:16:41 AM »
I have received some of my supplies and was fooling around with some measurements and found a couple interesting 'coincidences'. Due to the nature of the shapes of the electromagnets (cylinders/circles) and the number PHI (1.618) one 'layer' of windings on the outer coilset (primaries?) is exactly five times (5x) the length of one layer on the tapcoil (secondary?). This would make it a step down transformer  (as far as conductor length goes anyways) correct? Makes sense except that the outer coilset is comprised of eight 1:1 transformers in series. Because they all are touching the central coil does that mean 8 x 1:1 = 8:1??? All coils are the same physical height so you get 8:1 coil HEIGHT for the price of 5:1 conductor LENGTH... Hmmm 8/5=1.6 (What was that number again??)
Seems like this should be something that is already discussed somewhere?!? Help me out if you know where this info/discussion is, eh?
I think if the wire is wound properly around the coilset you are essentially winding a toroid (although physically I think it would look more like a wavy version of a doughnut with four high spots and four low spots...) that works more like eight PMHs tied together. Hope this makes some sort of sense heh...
I need to locate a variac... And a bench vise...
PC

Paul-R

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #388 on: December 19, 2011, 05:13:59 PM »

I need to locate a variac...
I got a good one off Ebay. But they are heavy. Transport might be an issue if
it is not near enough to collect.

PhiChaser

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Re: Hubbard coil
« Reply #389 on: December 20, 2011, 12:17:04 AM »
I got a good one off Ebay. But they are heavy. Transport might be an issue if
it is not near enough to collect.
I just really need a hobby sized vise that can clamp to my counter/table... Probably find one locally or on craigslist for cheap. My 'local' UPS pickup is about 10 miles away (I found that one out last week)...
PC