Author Topic: Computer Control of a PWM design. work in progress. (Read 34797 times)

sigmaX · « **Reply #45 on:** June 18, 2008, 10:09:47 PM »

Hi z.Monkey !

Hey Markolonius, using an amplifier sounds (ehheh) like a good idea, as it would solve your soundcard problem, you could also monitor its output, and it would create a stronger signal!!

I got my HHO generator right on top of my kitchen table. I will think about doing the sound test myself .....

Hey imagine, the car giving 40% increase in gas efficiency with say, heavy metal, and 30% with classic music ... how interesting

heh

enrique

markolonius · « **Reply #46 on:** June 18, 2008, 10:59:22 PM »

Hey all!

Thanks for the quick replies! I want to try an amplifier like from a car. I just need to get one lol! I'll let you know how everything goes, once i get it going. i wonder if my sound blaster live sound card has this auto sensing. i'll look it up,, or send out an e-mail to sound blaster and ask em.

i'll let you know if Metallica does a better job of fracturing water than Mozart. or the opposite! haha thanks

markolonius · « **Reply #47 on:** June 19, 2008, 12:17:19 AM »

Hey all. I have a question. I'm not to educated in electronics ya see... and i need to know how i can measure the voltage and current of the wires leaving my amplifier. right now i'm just trying my guitar amp (i know not the best) which should show something, but doesn't. i connect the electrode terminals on the output of the amp and i get nothing. I also try to read the voltage of the out put of the amp and i get nothing. if someone who knows please explain. someone told me i need to make a loop or something

z.monkey · « **Reply #48 on:** June 19, 2008, 03:27:10 AM »

Howdy Markolonius,

At the least you will need an AC Voltmeter and an AC ammeter. Regular digital voltmeters and ammeters are not going to measure various frequencies or chords, you have to use one note. Also this note needs to be low in frequency because common digital ammeters are designed to measure 60 Hertz, not sound. You can rectify and filter the output and measure it as DC through a 8 ohm load with more accuracy. Or another option is to get a audio signal strength meter (expensive).

If you are using tap water your signal will get shorted out because tap water is conductive. You need to use distilled water or deionized water. These are pure water and are not conductive to low voltages.

Blessed Be Brother...

Lanmasterd · « **Reply #49 on:** August 07, 2008, 06:28:39 PM »

Hello my friends im very sorry for not being online.. i have put alot into my build and have gotten behind on a few things.. i now have a working version in both my Model place which thanks to my design and micro linux controled brains and solar wing cover it now has a water to gas conversion time of about 3 hours with a wankle motor engine.. i have load to post up so bear with me.. pics videos and close up macro shots for good view on both my motor bike and the plane..

ramset · « **Reply #50 on:** August 07, 2008, 06:44:28 PM »

Landmastered cant wait!! sounds great !! Chet

mikemongo · « **Reply #51 on:** August 10, 2008, 04:50:03 PM »

Quote from: Lanmasterd on April 28, 2008, 10:41:08 AM

Ive changed my pcb exposer to an Led driven one.. 300 Led 5mm ones with 370nm 7000mcd .. so its gonna be stronger then my old tube ones.

Lanmasterd

Lanmasterd, where was you able to find UV LED's at a decent price? I didn't do an extensive search, but they seemed kinda pricey from what I've seen so far.

The reason I ask is I think they might have a place inside of the cell to help break down the H20 via photo dissociation and knocking electrons loose from their orbit for electron extraction.
http://www.windows.ucar.edu/tour/link=/physical_science/chemistry/photodissoc_h2o.html and http://spiff.rit.edu/classes/phys301/lectures/spec_lines/Atoms_Nav.swf

I'm excited to see your videos and pictures!

Thanks,
Mike

mikemongo · « **Reply #52 on:** September 03, 2008, 01:43:09 AM »

Lanmasterd, is everything OK?

I(we) are looking forward to see your pics/videos for some inspiration. I think we are on the same path. I have been having some problems with the circuitry(hv leakage, I think I might be trying for too much high voltage), but still chugging slowly along.

Thanks for what you have given so far,

Mikemongo

Jokker · « **Reply #53 on:** September 04, 2008, 03:22:00 PM »

Hey guys !

Im planning to build up something familiar.
Atm. im on 3. course and seems that it is very good stuff as "final project" ,as it is a interesting devise to build up.

For start i have created a very modifiable audio signal (square wave) to switch a transistor.
So far im waiting for cell

atm. im not able to start testing. I got no idea what induction element i need... at least i want to find some equations to do math with. I quess it will be also a variable inductor.

But it is for start...

It will not work as a final project right... I need to automatize something ... anything

This year we will learn digital stuff and programming. But i want to kick "start" earlier.

Could someone advice me a "easy to start" controller. What is programming languages are needed to learn necessarily. Ill start with c++.
E-book maybe ..

Ty !

lefferdink · « **Reply #54 on:** October 04, 2008, 06:07:16 PM »

Hi Z Monkey and all: I thought that the site was abandoned and didn't know that a question was asked of me, sorry. I did buy a new oscilloscope (OWON PDS5022S), one WFC 7 tube, 3 PWM's and wound two inductors. The 7 tuber smoked when the amps were put to it by the pwm and this was by accident.
My pressure was at 50 psig at the end of one the tube conditioning sets, opened the drain valve to get rid of the mucky water and opened the top of the WFC and black smoke rolled out of it. I have stopped conditioning the tubes because I will have to buy and wind 5 more inductors. They say this is the proper way to condition the tubes. Working with the two inductors- they get too hot.
I am checking on a 6" Nominal size see thru PVC pipe for the WFC that I'm still working on. If I can get 2' of this pvc I will add another 8 tubes. This will finalize BIG BIRTHA!
I've made self centering end caps for the 1" and 3/4" SS pipes. The wedges will not stay put. This is where resonance or the pipe organ effect will not work on my system unless I'm mistaken. Tried To ring the pipes with the caps on the tubes and they won't ring.

Spider · « **Reply #55 on:** October 04, 2008, 06:41:17 PM »

@all,

For anyone who is interrested, controller wise, I recently bougth this:

http://www.microchip.com/stellent/idcplg?IdcService=SS_GET_PAGE&nodeId=2615&dDocName=en535536

80MHZ, 32 bit, usb, etc. 35 euro's

Now I have to learn C,

Spider

Spider · « **Reply #56 on:** October 05, 2008, 01:29:02 PM »

@all,

Here is another nice to know feature of this board. On the back is a connector which gives you access to all the processor pins. The matching connector is also available at digikey.
The pins are really small, but if you are up to the challenge you can slap this onto any pcb.

There is also a guy on the net who makes adapters like in the second pic.
http://www.eflightworks.net/

Spider.

lefferdink · « **Reply #57 on:** November 09, 2008, 03:50:54 PM »

Hi to everyone:
Has anyone tried to condition the stainless steel tubes (setup like Stan Meyers used)with rain water?
I get no brown or red gunk.

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