Hi protonmom,

....... the reading is now .93 both top and bottom. 

1) you should mention what was measured, Amperes or Volts?
Or give the scale/setting of the DMM. mA? V?

2) Yes your new AMM can be read from a photo. Just publish as high resolution as possible (never mind the file size, as long a it's within the upload limits)

It works like this:
the instrument has several scales with numbers on them.
You choose one of these scales using the settings-dial.
Example:
Suppose the dial of the instrument offers a "200 mA" setting.
Set the dial to this setting.
One of the scales will have the figure "2" or "20" or "200" written at the right end.
That is the applicable scale for the chosen setting.

Once you have selected a certain setting with the setting dial, you can forget about all the other scales apart from the applicable one.

Suppose the needle moves a quarter of the whole way.
It would point to approx. "50" on the applicable scale.
So the meter would measure "50 mA"
(which is the same as 0.05 A)

3) Yes you can use both multimeters simultaneously, one set to read Amperes, the other to read Volts.
First connect the meter you want to use for the Voltage reading. Note that its reading will drop dramatically, as soon as you connect the other meter (set for Amp reading).
That is normal.
If it is not clear to you why, I will explain it.

4) You can leave the instruments connected for days and keep them switched on. They do not need much energy. The batteries won't go down that fast, according to my experience.

i ended up at the bottom, because i made mine in the method described by Bill (even though he said to coil them back up to the other end...) i simply didnt have enough wire cut to perform that..

also, that would make it quadrafilar, not not bifilar....

I think you might be confused about how this coil is supposed to be built. By saying it would be quadrifilar, I think you are supposing that you would be adding another wire to those you already have.
If you were to unwind HALF of the coil that you have made, and re-wind the wire back to the top you would be much closer to the intended coil.
there ARE 4 wire ends, but there are 2 wires.
The beginning ends are called '10' - either one, and the finish ends are called 5 and 6.
This will automatically give you a stake at the bottom that you can pound into the ground.
You can also let the unconnected '10' wires stick up in the 'ethers' which he says to do. The '10' ends of the wires are not supposed to be connected to anything so they can perform as intended. (?)
I am now finding evidence that makes me believe that these are antennas.

I hope this helps to clear up some stuff.
(I really did read the patent every day for a long time.)

i have since connected the 0-5 /1-6 without change to the operation.

I do not understand what you are referring to here, but it may be related to the quadrifilar question?? ??
or...
0-5 may be what we called '10-cu' and 1-6 may be what we called '6'. Please explain.

Thanks Sm0ky2. Keep up the good work.

@IotaYodi,
I love the idea of conical caps. I have it in mind to make conical induction coils after I settle my understanding a little about cylindrical ones first!

If you just pound a nail and piece of copper pipe into the ground an armspan apart and connect them with wires or aligator clips (the clips must NOT touch the ground!!!!) and read the scope reading when it is not storming, you would be adding a lot to our results.

- Interesting observation about ears. I guess an EQ must make a compression wave when it happens. I wonder if part of it an overtone of it is scalar? Maybe that is why animals get disturbed and the spikes are soo hard to catch.

hmm,

thank you,

jeanna

That would be a hard one.

This is what I find so interesting this year.

I have 2 planted with their stakes into the ground.
And, these show the same frequency as each other and as the plain EB on a given day.

Actually here is what happens.

the plain EB shows a frequency of lets say 2.4MHz on a certain day.
The Stubblefield EER will show twice that.
But if I only connect one of those coils to the EER at a time the frequency will be the same 2.4MHz.

What I think is happening with the doubling effect is that they are phased differently.
(I think I can use the word phase here.)
So, I see individual peaks from each one combined into a more complex one.
Maybe 3 would give me a 3 phase?
That would be 7.2Mhz, and I am not too sure I could read that!

But anyway, it is the ground that is telling the frequency, and the coil is picking it up.
If you were to collect all my pics and make sure you keep the day separate, you will see what I am talking about.
The volts are what is changing, I think.

I can double check the inside ones with the joule thief to see what
 the radiant reception is between them.

I just got my LC meter and I plan to measure each one with all its
different coils arrangements.

I am wondering if a toroid can be mounted on a stake and if so, how much of a magnifier that would be. Bifilar, bimetal, with ends sticking up and wound  with a twisted center tap or series connection as with these NS coils.

Anyway, My plan, after I have the list of inductances, is to see what it takes to raise the voltage.
If the frequency is pulsed into the coil I want to find which one responds with the highest voltage, then refine it from there.

Lots to learn here!

jeanna

...
Could someone please give me a shopping list of the type/number for any diodes, resistors, transistors, caps, etc., I would need to make a proper workinng jt?  Also where is the best online place to buy these parts? 

Shopping list.
You will get 10 toroids so notice that you can get 10 of everything else. Verrrry cheap.
Allelectronics is my source. There is no minimum and the shipping is flat $7.
Tor-23   10/$1 I love this little guy.
1K ohm resistor 10/$0.50
Get a 1k ohm pot. 5/$1 while you are paying for shipping.
2N3904 5/$0.75
or
2N2222 same price so maybe get some of each.
Plus, you will very soon want at least one 2N3055. ($1.35, I think.)
Battery holders are 70 cents each, but very difficult to make well. I get 5 AAA and 5AA just to have a variety.
They have some leds that are bright enough, so get 5 or 6. Later you can get 100/$9.00 from china on ebay.

Get one or 2 of their small breadboards to save on de-soldering when you experiment.

Electronic goldmine has my second favorite which I use to make real winning MK1 toroids.
It is called a medium filter and is also used as an inductor. It has red wire on 2 sides.
The goldmine also has a cheap toroid called medium.
 It is a bigger one that lots of people have but I do not like it very much. It is 5/$1.
The goldmine has good prices too but has a minimum order size of $10, I think, so I usually keep a list going for goldmine purchases.
The shipping is also $7.
Also, I have experienced more delays with the goldmine than with allelectronics.
They are both good places.

  Can any parts off old computer monitors or television sets be used for the jt?

Yes, but others need to help here.

Also, I have Fuji, ...  I just hate to throw out all those cameras if they can be used.

They can usually be made to work, but you need to look at the circuits page that Bill put up to get those.
My pic of the right fuji is there too.
Look in the joule thief forum area then choose the one called circuit diagrams or like that.

Briefly, you want the fuji that has the black smooth button on the front.
This camera uses a AA not a tripleA.
Freeenergy found a third fuji so I don't know anymore.
It is one of the main reasons to wind them yourself.

As far a the best instruction is concerned, I like the video from makezine the best.
I remember now, that you cannot watch this, but if you can somehow get to a library or friend's place,
 it watch it 3 times then go for it.
They have a pdf at makezine that helps too.

Bill used the instructables one, but I think there might be a mistake or a part that is unclear about the wire connections.
But at least that is not a video.

I am sorry for not answering before!

jeanna

Yes, but others need to help here.

Additional parts for the JT?

If you want high voltage, a defunct CRT filament tube from a TV will have a high voltage transformer and so will a microwave oven(the  Microwave O ven Transformer---MOT).

These can even be found by the sidewalk or road as junk.  For free.

--Lee

Hi everybody,

I am posting this here because it seems to belong with the iron winding element of stubblefield, somehow.

I have just gutted 3 cfl's in the last week.
I find it very surprising that the 2 filaments coming out of each tube are made of iron.
I also wonder how significant it is that there are 7 turns of this iron wire around a NON ferrous metal post??

Well there you have it.


jeanna

Wow
Gravity block just gave me some important info on the jt topic.
I do not get why he thought it was important, there, but you guys are gonna love this.
I copied this from wiki
======

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search

The Wiegand effect is a nonlinear magnetic effect, produced in specially annealled and hardened wire called Wiegand wire.

Initially, Wiegand wire is low-carbon Vicalloy (an alloy of cobalt, iron, and vanadium) wire, fully annealled. In this state the alloy is "soft" in the magnetic sense- that is, it is attracted to magnets (it is ferromagnetic and so magnetic field lines will divert preferentially into the metal) but the metal retains only a very small residual field when the external field is removed.

Then, the wire is subjected to a series of twisting and untwisting operations, to cold-work the outside shell of the wire, while retaining a soft core within the wire, and then the wire is aged. The result is that the magnetic coercivity of the outside shell is much larger than the inner core. This high coercivity outer shell will retain an external magnetic field even when the field's original source is removed.

The wire now exhibits a very large magnetic hysteresis loop - if a magnet is brought near the wire, the high coercivity outer shell excludes the magnetic field from the inner soft core until the magnetic threshold is reached, at which point the entire wire (both the outer shell and inner core) rapidly switch magnetisation polarity. This switchover occurs in a few microseconds, and is termed the Wiegand effect.

The value of the Wiegand effect is that the switchover speed is sufficiently fast that a significant voltage can be output from a solenoid using a Wiegand-wire core. Because the voltage induced by a changing magnetic field is proportional to the rate of change of the field, a Wiegand-wire core can increase the output voltage of a magnetic field sensor by several orders of magnitude as compared to a similar coil with a non-Wiegand core. This higher voltage can easily be detected electronically, and when combined with the high repeatability threshold of the magnetic field switching, making the Wiegand effect useful for positional sensors.

Once the Wiegand wire has flipped magnetization, it will retain that magnetization until flipped in the other direction. Sensors and mechanisms that use the Wiegand effect must take this retention into account.

The Wiegand effect is a macroscopic extension of the Barkhausen effect as the special treatment of the Wiegand wire causes the wire to act macroscopically as a single large magnetic domain. The small high-coercivity domains in the Wiegand wire outer shell switch in an avalanche, generating the Wiegand effect's rapid magnetic field change.

==========
thank you,

jeanna

Hi to everyone
                     I wonder if anyone one knows a source to machine acrylic pieces to make a coil like Lasersaber's , I plan to make them big and in series parallel, but I tried sources online like emachine , that are never available and required expensive huge orders, now , I live in the usa, but as right now I have to live in a remote part of the world where I have not chance to do this no reliable source , certainly my solitary free time is fullfiled with this ideas I have the other materials but can't cut with precision like I need for my own setting
I will appreciate any help in this regards
Cheers

Just a thought for you.  If you are speaking of the end cap pieces, they do not have to be round.  You could make them square, which is much easier to do, and as long as you made them large enough, it should work just fine.

Bill