Very interesting, cheers!!  Just looking at his videos, will study intentively........

Your absolutely right though about the installation, its definitely not that easy.....

Was just thinking there about the graphite spacers in the Magdrive, it may have something to do with keeping the temperature down within the cell....  Maybe...

As for your question about testing each item, yes i did test the magdrive first but was not happy with results, with the addition of the efie it more or less doubled the efficiency.....

As said, it really does fluctuate, If your driving around town it ain't really good, the throttle response is great though.....  If your travelling long distances on open road, well you will certainly save some money and the environment....  Gonna to get an emissions test, just to confirm.....

Cheers again for the links 

Are you locating the supply on the intake side of the throttle body? or between the filter and throttle body?  I read someplace that by placing a line on both sides you get more draw out of the unit since at open throttle there should be more vacuum between the air filter and throttle body then in the intake... <but that don't completely make sense to me.

I had difficulty in understanding this as well at first, I have 2 hoses going directly in front of the main throttle body, (in front of the butterfly) I didn't want to lose any HHO in the air filter, also no extra vacuum is required.... 
I did experiment abit though, and there is plenty of options to get more vacuum, but unfortunately it appeared to boil the water, and water was sucked directly into the carb, it was actually frightening to see this happen     I have yet to find a suitable valve to regulate this.

The unit itself is pretty well sealed, if you even try to block the hose while its generating, there seems to be alot of push.....

HHO naturally flows into the carb, but I do see your point.... My problem at the moment is in the deceleration, and especially stuck in traffic where this unit ain't nowhere efficient..

Alot of bugs to iron out.....   

Yes Michael, Unfortunately I don't see half the efficiency while driving around town, (probably no efficiency at all) and being stuck in traffic.... 
This could be due to a number of reasons though, It takes awhile for the Efie to start going (about 10mins) It also takes a while for the HHO to actually reach the carb maybe 3-5 mins.....  So if I'm going on a 5 min journey from A to B, you can imagine this Unit doesn't quite work....
No-one is going to have their car warming up for 10 minutes before they take their journey.....

Food for thought   

Hi my first post so be gentle 

I have been using a Magdrive series 9 F hydro-gen
on a 998cc car - pipe in inlet manifold (always a vacuum) 2 flame traps , 1 vapour trap
thing's noted ...

no exhaust smell 1 min after startup
takes over 10 min's for unit to warm up to full op temp - same time as the engine
produced quite a bit of hho to start with , but within hours output decreased
and ampage dropped - flushed system to find thick black mud in the bottom of the
chamber

flushed out as best I could , tried again with same results , electolyte is as per instructions
1 heaped teaspoon per us gallon (3.8l)
the graphite seems to erode and coat the stainless blocking hho production
these units don't like the cold much and cool too much when the fan's are on

emailed  magdrive with no reply 

I belive the guy is genuine ... and the magdrive before my one uses stainless nuts
as spacers - thus more contact area , and proberly no mud , but more amp's per volt / same temp
has anyone found the same???

as he say's he keep's the price cheap so normal people can buy them

what is your opinion

What kind of water are you putting in the thing?
And what do you mean  graphite were is graphite coming from ?

I'm using filtered rain water

Magdrive seem to use graphite washers and spacers (similar to pencil lead)
the lower spacers are waisted    )(    in the middle as if they are corroded
and the mud is the same colour (not rusty)
this was all over the lower innards of the mag-drive
and appeared to be slowing hho production
Flushed it several times , even with white vinegar , but it kept coming back
when it was working well it was definately pumping out hho
as I said earlier versions had stainless nuts as spacers , and
proberly won't have any problems
early days yet , I am replacing internals with nylon washers / spacers (heat resistant)
I expected some problems anyway , as you do with ''one size fits all'' products
I am certainly not going to lay back and let the oil company's take my money
and I consider the magdrive a starting point , they seem to be a honest enough company
just my one clog's up 

(in the uk petrol is over ?1.03p per liter ... approx $8 per us gallon)
so you can understand the interest

Well petrol is now ?1.07 per litre 
the mag drive is working better , with much less mud in the bottom (I havn't replaced all the graphite , yet)
I drain the sediment once a week , and have fitted a auto-drain from the vapour trap to the bottom of the magdrive
so all the vapour drains back to the MD
but temps are in the - in the morning so it dosn't stand much chance of warming up 
I am considering changing the electrolyte to distilled vinegar
as this should clean the stainless as it is used and will be better in the cold , but will use more amp's
what have others used as electrolyte
I've been doing experiments with 2 spiral coils of perforated stainless 316 seperated by cable ties
and it seems to work , I am looking for woven plastic mesh to allow more bubble discharge between the coils
also have noticed when I strap a ''shaking motor'' to the container the bubbles release easier
so maybe if I bolt the magdrive to the engine it will work better also offsetting it a bit allows bubbles to release
from the horizontal washers ... if it don't shake it to bits
anyone seen the inside of the magdrive ''brick''
anyway hope it's warmer where you all are 
and the petrol is cheaper