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Author Topic: Peter Davey Heater  (Read 489340 times)

Sprocket

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #375 on: August 11, 2008, 11:14:39 PM »
1 litre in 1 minute is spectacular, particularily if it happening at 1-1.5A - my kettle takes over 5min @ 2KW to boil 1.7L!

Pics, measurments, more info, please... :)

professor

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #376 on: August 12, 2008, 08:12:19 AM »
Having read all the many posts with great interests and I found that there were many valid Ideas tossed around.
I did not want to double post and  therefore I made sure that the following was not suggested by any other member before.
I am a great believer in process of elimination.
Therefore I thought one should obtain two Identical Tuning Forks at 50 or 60 hertz depending  upon your line frequency,
These tuning forks are I think made of Brass or some other conductive metal.
Forget about the shape of the Bells for a while as you now have two precisely  tuned electrodes that you can subject to your Line voltage and frequency and it should be fairly easy to move them apart while observing the ampmeter. If at resonance with each other  I would expect that there is a "sweet spot"  and the amp reading should dip.
This is pure speculation but I think its worth a try.
I have moved to a fairly remote area where I no longer have access to anything and this is hampering my own experiments. Need some ferric Chloride, it has to be shipped minimum purchase from Vancouver etc. it is a costly undertaking.
Needed a function Generator Chip minimum order was 25 Dollars and since 9/11 they ask me a barrage of questions whether it is for military purposes and  what I am using it for etc. If you ask for KOH  I am afraid that they send someone to check me out.
I had another Idea that  has not been tried and I suppose it may just the mysery circuit that is inside Davey's sphere ?, namely  a stainless steel coil having both reactance and resistance. This coil could be wound to resonate at any harmonic frequency. I am not good in formulas and Math any more but there should be an optimum length's for 110VAC resistance and while this wire will heat up due to the currentflow it should also create an electromagnetic field that may ring both Bells.I think if you were to use a PWM Controller like a simple light dimmer you may enhance the effect of literary hammering the bells and also have tha ability to limit your current to start off with. If you are worried of blowing fuses just series up the circuit with a high load. I use an electric Oil Heater of 1500 Watts  just in case I create a short.
Another thought I had as far as the two half  Bells  welded together I think the Weld would stiffen and the temper would destroy their ability
to ring. Just a thought.
I think if any of these Ideas work in praxis then I will be another step closer to Stanley Meyers Invention as I feel that there is a very close correlation.
Professor

Paul-R

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #377 on: August 12, 2008, 03:34:49 PM »

Therefore I thought one should obtain two Identical Tuning Forks at 50 or 60 hertz .....

If you ask for KOH  I am afraid that they send someone to check me out......
I doubt that anyone would make 50 or 60hz tuning forks. They are not musical notes.

KOH? Most people using KOH can use NaOH, which is sold for unblocking drains.

Paul.

petersone

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #378 on: August 12, 2008, 05:51:01 PM »
Hi All
Been reading this thread with interest,just two questions,at the moment,if someone would be good enough to answer,do BOTH bells need to be tuned to 50hz?and doe's the surfice of the bells need to be totally parallel to each other over there intire area,if so by moving them together or apart they will of course not be totally parallel over the entire area.
I would like to replicate this one,but need to understand it all before I start,well as much as I can.
happy hunting
peter

Sprocket

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #379 on: August 12, 2008, 11:04:07 PM »
This is the main problem, nothing is known for certain about what is required - everything posted here is mere speculation!  The only thing we have to go on is its general construction and that some form of 'resonance' is probably involved - hardly definitive!

petersone

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #380 on: August 12, 2008, 11:16:56 PM »
Thank you Sprocket,that was a great help!!! Only kidding, can it be said that both bells need to be tuned,or is it just one?
On the distance apart thing,if they need to be parallel over the total area,it could be done with cones,if they will work,I think cones have been mentioned before.
happy hunting.
peter

Sprocket

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #381 on: August 13, 2008, 03:38:15 AM »
I wish I knew, seriously!  I tried various setups but could get nothing extraordinary to happen.  Again, there are zero facts known about what makes this puppy work - we do not even have a ball-park figure on what power a 'working' heater uses!  I went and bought a digital thermometer and a few wattmeters with the intent of further investigating, but on 'discovering' electrode boilers, coupled with the sheer number of unknowns involved, I'm currently suffering an enthusaism deficiency... :D

ggx9

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #382 on: August 13, 2008, 05:56:07 AM »
Hi Digits,

In reference to your August 10 posting, would you give the dimension between the bells? Was the starting water temperature the same as the room, could you give an estimate of that temperature?
Plugging in some guestimates for the missing numbers I calculate an approximate COP of 15!
Keep up the good work.

Richard

Paul-R

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #383 on: August 13, 2008, 03:41:35 PM »
Hi All
Been reading this thread with interest,just two questions,at the moment,if someone would be good enough to answer,do BOTH bells need to be tuned to 50hz?and doe's the surfice of the bells need to be totally parallel to each other over there intire area
peter
Yes, if your mains is 50hz, (and of course, in the States it is 60), then both bells must
be tuned to 50hz - or any octave higher, i.e. 100hz, 200hz and the favourite, 400hz.

If the bells are identical, they will not be parallel exactly. It is a snag. In an ideal world,
the outer bell would have a radius larger than the inner one by the amount of the separation.

Keep it simple. Find some stainless steel soup ladles.

I am using the casing of a computer's power supply unit:
http://www.build-a-computer-guide.com/images/barebone-PSU.jpg
They can be picked up for nothing from an old scrapped computer or recycling centre.
The top sheet metal comes off, the insides can be removed and put aside. Cut a channel
in the "[" (channel) shaped sheet metal piece that comes off. Cut the handles off the ladles.
Drill a M8 hole in the centre of the ladle bowls. Buy some M8 screwed rod. Araldite the M8
bolts to the sheet metal piece, having put a small piece of insulator, glass, to insulate one
of the bowls from the other. You get the general idea.
Paul.

Digits

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #384 on: August 15, 2008, 06:53:25 PM »
Hi guys sorry for replying so late I'm under allot of pressure.we are working on a power station on a Reverse Osmosis plant to be commissioned.
I  cannot give you foto's right now I'm away from home working on the plant but I am busy with drawings witch I will post later tonight to give you some idea.

first of all on the drawing Peter Davey shows that the wires should go through a little pipe or tube to each bell,I however could not do that for I only had a solid PVC threaded rod,so I just connected the neutral on the top bell and the live at the bottom on the bottom bell.
the wire did seem to hinder the performance of the element though,the best resalts was when the bells was running free,no wires touching the sides.thats obvious it hinders the bell from resonating freely.

Next I only tuned one bell(this is the key I think,and should be done very carefully) I don't know if I should tune the other one too, I just don't see it necessary for the 50HZ cycle will come from the live feeding the bottom bell that is tuned through to the other bell and dissipate via the neutral.I don't see that tuning the other bell will have any significance(I might be wrong but only experimenting will tell).

Now some one did mention that it might not really have to be 50HZ it might be 100,200,400 and so on and I found that to be true.
if you wantit to resonate at 50HZ its going to be a huge bell.I Have a guitar tuner and I tuned it to G,then I took my sinewave generator and put a speaker to it.I would then hit the bell and tune the generator to the same sound the bell made it was roughly 1550 to 1580 I don't know it sort of sounded the same to me.If I took some metal off the pitch will go higher so this is a very carefull exercise.

I used just plain old tap water I just wanted to see if it works.I had some electronisescoming of the bells not too much and when I touched the bucket the water was already warm and I could feel the water getting hotter almost every second.my water however don't heat as quick as Peter Davey' on the video though.
when the element is running I can actually feel the resonance it makes a nice buzz sound very soft and I can feel little vibrations almost like the sound that a transformer makes when it's on.

last I don't think this is OU it's really a very efficient way to heat liquid but I might be wrong I do have another question,if we tune this to resonance and swap the AC for DC and make the sine wave a square wave,would it not make one nice electronisis machine? just a thought.

you guys have asked allot of questions I hope I answered all if not let me know.( ill get back to you on that Pic's)

thank you

Digits

Digits

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #385 on: August 15, 2008, 09:14:44 PM »
Hey u guys I finnished the drawings this si about the setup I had.
someone asked the distance between the bells i will have to go home and messure that but that will only be in two weeks time.
iI think every setup will differ from the size of the bell to the mains u use and at what pitch you arre operating my advice is build one and finetune it.sometimes I will use very little amps and some allot of amps (10A+ -) and the boiling will take forever.and then you just hit the sweetspot and there you go.

In the sunny South Africa we use 220VAC @ 50 HZ

i attached the Pictures I hope this will give you a good idea of how it looks at home

thanks

Digits

Digits

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #386 on: August 15, 2008, 09:23:30 PM »
here is more

helmut

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #387 on: August 15, 2008, 11:17:26 PM »
Hi Digits
Thanks alot for your reply, as well as for the Pics.
Now one can emagine, what was your setup.

If you arrive at home, it would be of much interest to do some mesurements.
First to know the start temperature of the Water and the Volume of it
second the rise of temperature according to time.
And finaly the Voltage, the current draw and the frequency.

However  thanks for your help, and have a nice time where you are.

helmut

Paul-R

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #388 on: August 16, 2008, 03:47:57 PM »
I don't see that tuning the other bell will have any significance.....

I would then hit the bell and tune the generator to the same sound the bell made it was roughly 1550 to 1580....

The Davey method definitely requires BOTH bells to be tuned to mains freq or an octave thereof. This is very clear.

1550 - 1580 is almost two octaves on from 400.
The sequence runs 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800 and then it is inaudible.
1580hz is on the right track. It ought to be 1600, but 1580 is not to be sneezed at.
Paul.

petersone

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Re: Peter Davey Heater
« Reply #389 on: August 16, 2008, 03:54:51 PM »
Gradually gleaning the necessary information,thanks guys!!
What about the two bells being paraell over the whole area?
happy hunting
peter