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Author Topic: My s1r9a9m9 replication!  (Read 434170 times)

Offline capacitor70

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #195 on: June 22, 2008, 05:18:49 AM »
 Sweet.  Try warming up the block if have not done so already with gasoline and switch over to water.  Just an idea.  Keep up the excellent work!
I installed inverter on bike and taken trials with plasma plug and gasoline, It gives good power to bike, battray drained complitly, then used 12v 60Amps  , but before I take trial with water and hot engine, burnened inverter

 Also the GEET system was able to use 50% to 70% water with the gas mix but they could not go over that.
lemonade helps to mix gasoline and water, But high corrosion

 but  carbon fiber is a  pretty good conductor .
Use teflon rods.
 
 have  you  tried  to break the  ceramic  out of a sparkplug?
Heat spark plug, before doing any machining, it will not crack

Today I am getting 4 Stroke bike engine, for stand alone test.

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #195 on: June 22, 2008, 05:18:49 AM »

Offline xbox hacker

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #196 on: June 22, 2008, 05:28:54 AM »
Use teflon rods....wouldnt that slip out..HAHAHAHA..j/k

What about G10 platics? Seems that might work. here is a quote...

"G10-FR4 / *MICARTA?/ GAROLITE:

SHEETS, TUBES, and RODS plus Machining - Fabricating capabilities.                       

G10 FR4 laminate grades are produced by inserting continuous glass woven fabric impregnated with an epoxy resin binder while forming the sheet under high pressure. This material is used extensively in the electronics industry because its water absorption is extremely minimal and the G10 line of materials is not electrically conductive. The G10 FR4 is most commonly used in PCB (Printed Circuit Boards) applications.  G10 exhibits superior mechanical and dimensional stability and doesn't shrink. Temperature ratings of 180 degrees C.(not enought?) In addition to these properties, G10/FR4 has excellent dielectric loss properties, and great electrical strength. The difference between Grades G10 and FR4 is that FR4 is a fire retardant grade of G10.  FR4 (also known as Garolite) can be substituted where G10 is specified; G10 can never be substituted for FR4.   G10 is also known as Micarta and Garolite and can be used for structural supports, buss bars, mechanical insulation, gears, test fixtures, washers, spacers and tight tolerance machined parts for electromechanical assemblies."

Offline resonanceman

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #197 on: June 22, 2008, 05:41:39 AM »

 but  carbon fiber is a  pretty good conductor .
Use teflon rods.
 
 

If I remember  right  teflon  can take around 900 degrees ..... that  is probably  high enough
The problems with teflon is  it is  slick  and  fairly  soft .......    in short  it  is "squishy' under  presure ......... with  repeated    temprature  changes    the   core of the plug  would  eventually pop  out .......possably  at great speed

Quote
Today I am getting 4 Stroke bike engine, for stand alone test.

good  luck   with  your engine

gary

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #197 on: June 22, 2008, 05:41:39 AM »
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Offline resonanceman

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #198 on: June 22, 2008, 06:09:33 AM »
Use teflon rods....wouldnt that slip out..HAHAHAHA..j/k

What about G10 platics? Seems that might work. here is a quote...

"G10-FR4 / *MICARTA?/ GAROLITE:

SHEETS, TUBES, and RODS plus Machining - Fabricating capabilities.                       

G10 FR4 laminate grades are produced by inserting continuous glass woven fabric impregnated with an epoxy resin binder while forming the sheet under high pressure. This material is used extensively in the electronics industry because its water absorption is extremely minimal and the G10 line of materials is not electrically conductive. The G10 FR4 is most commonly used in PCB (Printed Circuit Boards) applications.  G10 exhibits superior mechanical and dimensional stability and doesn't shrink. Temperature ratings of 180 degrees C.(not enought?) In addition to these properties, G10/FR4 has excellent dielectric loss properties, and great electrical strength. The difference between Grades G10 and FR4 is that FR4 is a fire retardant grade of G10.  FR4 (also known as Garolite) can be substituted where G10 is specified; G10 can never be substituted for FR4.   G10 is also known as Micarta and Garolite and can be used for structural supports, buss bars, mechanical insulation, gears, test fixtures, washers, spacers and tight tolerance machined parts for electromechanical assemblies."

This  might  work good

I think I would  trust  ceramic  more though .......if the details  of  how to  get  it done can be worked out

gary

Offline gregs78cam

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #199 on: June 22, 2008, 10:48:23 AM »
try mcmaster-carr for ceramics

www.mcmaster.com

catalog page 3531 at the bottom

also search the site for ceramic tubes

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #199 on: June 22, 2008, 10:48:23 AM »
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Offline resonanceman

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #200 on: June 22, 2008, 02:25:35 PM »
try mcmaster-carr for ceramics

www.mcmaster.com

catalog page 3531 at the bottom

also search the site for ceramic tubes


Thanks Gregs

That  would have taken me a while to  find .


At    $  85.   for  10 pounds    it is  a little  out of my  budget  at  the moment ..........but  it is  doable in the near future


gary

Offline xbox hacker

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #201 on: June 22, 2008, 05:25:41 PM »
OUCH!!! $85....lol but it does seem that the two-part casting compound will work!

"Two-Part Casting Compounds
Easy-to-mix casting compounds capture intricate details when casting prototypes, molds, and linings."

"Alumina Ceramic    -200? to +3000? F    1800 psi"

but.... 10 pounds should make you dozens of plug sets...LOL

Cap70: I cant wait till you post details about the latest engine trials!!! I hope all works well for you.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #201 on: June 22, 2008, 05:25:41 PM »
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Offline capacitor70

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #202 on: June 22, 2008, 05:26:52 PM »
22vision
   Here is simple circuit for engine timing modification to any angle.

Engine timing modification circuit is pending for new engine, not yet tested.

Use bridge rectifier and capacitor on magneto to get 12V.

Search for CDI. you can get more ideas.

Offline 22vision

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #203 on: June 22, 2008, 06:33:06 PM »
Cap

I got the cap discharging when it hits about 280V it jumps back I have been playing with the freq and the freq on
the flyback in was abou 5Khz this produces nice plasma spark but the cap does not discharge if i take this down
to 100 - 300 hz the cap discharges. Also the transformer on the other side with the cap the frew is about 5Khz I am
going to try and up that a bit but I need to get another one (I am using a radio shack generic ATM) I did get the cap to discharge
adn I rpt a bit of water on the plug and I am getting blue plasma and some redish glow for a moment then it goed back
to the blue arc again. So the issue was a combination of the freq, MORE diodes and a resister on the + of the cap about
400K then I am seeing somthing different. When I do put some water on the plug NOT shorting) like I said I get some red sparks and poping. How loud should this thing pop? I assume varily loud. I get a very high pitched screaching off the cap also but no loud boom,
bang, just a craclke.

I am going to replace the transformer on the cap charging circuit and allow some more current through I just relized that the transformer
I am using is only 500ma lol  this should charge the cap faster and create a better bang!  I will let you know how it works out.

Nice Ieda on the timing I started to put together a circuit to do it but yours looks like it should work.

Later,
22Vision

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #203 on: June 22, 2008, 06:33:06 PM »
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Offline provelless

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #204 on: June 22, 2008, 08:56:11 PM »
For some of you guys that are working with smaller engines, single piston, Briggs&Stratton ect. If your looking to change the ignition timing, simply remove the keyway in the flywheel and move flywheel to desired setting. Now tighten the flywheel down, tighter than normal but don't get crazy. I did this on racing go-carts for years and never had one slip.  Of course if possible use a degree wheel so changes can be recorded. Great work guys!

Offline Super God

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #205 on: June 23, 2008, 02:21:01 AM »
THIS TOPIC HAS OVER NINE THOUSAAAAAAAAAAND VIEWS!!!!
Wow :o

How hard is it to change the keys on a small tecumseh engine?  I thought it involved welding or cutting off the original key.  It seemed hard to me.  Maybe I'm mistaken?

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #205 on: June 23, 2008, 02:21:01 AM »
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Offline capacitor70

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #206 on: June 23, 2008, 03:42:25 AM »
I got the cap discharging when it hits about 280V it jumps back I have been playing with the freq and the freq on
the flyback in was abou 5Khz this produces nice plasma spark but the cap does not discharge if i take this down
to 100 - 300 hz the cap discharges.

Do not use high frequency for flyback, engine gives pulse to ingnition coil acording to its RPM,
If waste spark system is used then Frequency of ignition coil is equal to the RPM of engine, if no waste spark then it is half of RPM.
It will not go more than 6KHz. for idal speed it is below 300Hz

Offline provelless

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #207 on: June 23, 2008, 04:23:49 AM »
Quote
How hard is it to change the keys on a small tecumseh engine?  I thought it involved welding or cutting off the original key.  It seemed hard to me.  Maybe I'm mistaken?

SG, they do make off-set keyways but they will only change timing a few degrees. I get the impression you guys are going to take a big swing at moving timing and you will need to remove the key altogether. Keep in mind that moving timing just a little on a gas engine affects it alot, meaning it might not start and/or yank the crank rope out of your hand, not sure if this plasma deal will be as tedious. If we knew roughly where piston needed to be in relationship with firing we could use a degree wheel and zero in the correct timing.

   To answer your question, take off nut or crank assembly from engine (flywheel). Take a punch and hammer and whack the center of the crankshank, as if your trying to drive the crank through the flywheel. This may take two or three hits but nine times out of ten the flywheel will pop loose, if it doesn't you may need a puller though I\ve never had to use one. The key will be stuck on either the flywheel or crank, take your punch and tap it off and your done.

Offline Super God

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #208 on: June 23, 2008, 04:54:04 AM »
About 30 - 40 degrees after top dead centre should be an ideal timing setting for a water explosion system like this.  35 degrees atdc should get it firing up smoothly although you should still get a response from the engine of some kind at the default timing setting.  Hell, Paul got his to almost idle without changing timing I believe.  All he used is an MSD-7, bigger injectors, and more fuel rail pressure (80 psi).  This was on a car with all the computer crap (1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse).

Offline capacitor70

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Re: My s1r9a9m9 replication!
« Reply #209 on: June 23, 2008, 05:53:33 AM »
Starter motor,
I tried to use my drill machine as starter motor, but it rotates in opposite direction, I swapped brushes to change direction it worked, but brushes become very hot and creating more arc. torque is reduced in opposite direction. I think it is not safe for drill machine.

 

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