Because to many people screwed up this very complex and expensive Dynamo and gave it a bad name.
But it works
Just for reference, when contacted why the files were removed, she said that they would be reposted at a later time ... Hang in there.
Here is my replication of a Muller Dynamo with few addons.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnO9O-fm9TU
Hi romerouk, nice work on the generator. It seems as though you're using principals from your 'overunity 2' video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lYTr16vdOM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lYTr16vdOM)Hi,
And on top of that you're using the odd/even setup like Muller, good ideas.
So with the example of your video 'overunity 2', where you show 2 magnets at opposite end repulsively interacting and nullifying that repulsion by using the ferro core attraction at the coil/core.
It seems possible one can get extra shaft power from that alone, though the odd/even is probably an extra bonus.
I'm going to test the principles in the 'overunity 2' video, i have everything here from other projects to easily replicate it. Was that coil intended to be pulsed or is it driven by a separate motor.
peace love light
Hi Romero,Hi Gyula,
CONGRATULATIONS! You seem to have a COP=2 setup! Very good.
For any naysayers a possible looping should be practical by using a DC/DC converter, such off the shelf units have at least a COP of 0.8 i.e. a 80% efficiency (or higher), this means the resultant COP still remains around 1.6 (0.8*2) and because you showed 12V output at 2A current (24Watt) the remaining available extra power (beyond the output taken for selfrunning) is at least 5-6Watt:
you can win the overunity price right now!
Here is a possible DC/DC converter I think would be good for looping back your output to input:
http://www.powerstream.com/dc6.htm
Of course there should be many other products like this or you can surely build a simple one from switch mode integrated circuits. The requirement is the converter should have a regulated 12V output voltage to prevent run away situation.
rgds, Gyula
Hi Romero,hall effect sensor
May I ask, what provides the trigger for the drive coils, please?
Penno
One more -the coils are conencted in pairs, top with the bottom but when i am talking about coils I am refering to each individual one.
are you calling a top and bottom pair, one coil?
Thanks, Penno
hi Romerobefore spending lots of money and time try to replicate my old example from the folowing link
thanks for the driver coil shematic ( i use it since some times on my shorting coil experiment and it works great,, thanks )
So everything seems very easy to replicate. And so far, you do not use "shorting" on the generative coils. Only paralelling those coils, rectified to the load-
So the main effect seems to come from the odd / even coil to magnet arrangement coupled with your addition of external magnet.
woww so simple genius
bravo
Will begin the replication ASAP
good luck at all
Laurent
[...]
Only 2 coils (pairs) are driving.
All other coils are connected to bridge rectifiers, each set of coils goes to a rectifier then all are connected in parallel
[...]
RomeroUK
thanks for the info, RomeroI have used a 4700uf/25v and the voltage increased to 13.8 with the load
sounds good about the smoothing cap - what capacity did you use & what did the Vout & Iout change to?
i guess with a little more windings on the gen coils that it would be possible to generate sufficient o/p voltage headroom to use for charging the i/p battery directly, without conversion (apart from rectification, of course)
a technique that i'm finding useful (with a different experiment) is to supply a load circuit direct from a battery as usual - then connect the o/p buffer capacitor to the battery via an inductor which is large enough to block switching transients between cap & battery
the cap would be ok to receive any transients from the o/p and it can develop a slight voltage increase above the battery voltage to keep a constant 'trickle' charge into the battery thro' the inductor
thanks
np
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
I have used a 4700uf/25v and the voltage increased to 13.8 with the load
[...]
To the best of my knowledge , the charge/discharge efficiency of lead acid batteries is about 80%.
[...]
Is the charge discharge efficiency of caps 100% ?
[...]
I think it was nul-points who suggested some coil rewinding to remove the necessity of a DC-DC converter . A simpler solution would be to rewind only the drive coils to work on a lower voltage . If you do this , include taps in the winding to optimise things.
@Romerouk .Can you please tell us more about your magnets . Size , grade , source of supply ? and could you please comment on my question re multistrand wire . Re the coil cores . Are these just pieces of ferrite rod from an old radio , or are they commercial cores ? Sorry about all these questions , but we need as much info as possible to replicate .It would seem from the video that your battery is 17 Amp hour . So if you dispensed with the machine, and connected that lamp directly to the battery , one could reasonably expect a run time of about 9 hours until the battery voltage drops to ,say , 11volts . That is if the battery is in good condition . However you say that the machine has run for several days without substantially discharging the battery .If this is the case ,you can forget about analysing complex waveforms .In my book , this shows indisputable proof of overunity .The magnets are 2cm diameter with 1cm thick, not very sure about the grade, I think are N38, I have bought them long time ago.
@nul-points . Yes fine cycling weather , thanks but very windy . On the flat lands of Lincolnshire , the winds are our mountains ...
[...]
we need to drive it with the most efficient motor available .Is a pulse motor the best choice? I don't know , I am just asking . Maybe a conventional permanent brush motor is more efficient, or a brushless ? Whatever motor we use , it needs to be direct drive , to eliminate transmission losses
[...]
It WORKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !
I am going to upload the video, is almost 20 minutes of self running.
The skeptics should prepare the arsenal..... :)
Hi Romero,At one time durring the test I have added the 20w bulb too and it worked. The voltage dropped a little under 12 volts.You will understand more when u watch the video.Before recording the video I tried with a 20w bulb plus a 5w bulb and that was a bit too much, the voltage dropped to 10.1v .The converter is not that strong too.A better setup with bigger magnets and bigger coils will do better.That is the next step now.
you are welcome and I am very pleased for your looping success!
Later, when you have some more time, try to place some further load to the 12V output of the converter, just to see how much extra 'reserve' energy is still hidden in the setup.
I do believe that further improvements are possible, like getting rid of the diode bridge and use controlled MOSFETs as rectifiers and so on.
rgds, Gyula
It WORKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !
;) :D ;D :D :D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
yeepee !!
video video video
While we wait for the video , here is a thought .I assume that all the magnets in the rotor have the same pole facing up . So therefore , am I right in thinking that the output from a given pair of coils is NOT AC , but pulsed DC ? If I am right , we can replace all the bridge rectifiers with single diodes . This would cut losses and improve the voltage of the out put .Can someone tell me if I am right or wrong ? Meanwhile , this is much more exiting [and of more benefit to mankind] than the first man on the moon .all magnets are same pole facing up. I have a spare rotor with magnets NSNS but I have never tried it but I will...
all magnets are same pole facing up. I have a spare rotor with magnets NSNS but I have never tried it but I will...
I am looking forward to bulid a proper one now.
I think now that we know it works people should try to replicate a bigger size.
Biggest problem I had was to get the rotor made.The core is very important
The picture below shows the core i am looking to use in the next setup.
Hi Romero,The output from each output coil > rectify and smooth that > that power is than via dc-to-dc converted back into the input coils = Correct
Great build and results.
Now I have a couple of questions if you don't mind lol:
- What is the core material?
- You use 2 drive coils and 7 output coils?
- So, you take the output from each output coil > rectify and smooth that > that power is than via dc-to-dc converted back into the input coils?
- The magnets on top of the coils, are then really needed?
- How many rotor magnets do you use?
- Can you please post some good pictures as well?
Thanks for sharing!
Regards,
Steven
This is a night we shall remember all our lives , for sure . I hope romerouk does not get overwhelmed and go into hiding , and that someone collates all the info into one place . Guess it will bbe on Peswiki by tomorrow . Mainstream news ? in about 10 years . going to try to sleep . see you all later .Don't worry I am not running away.I don't care if i am on different sites or if I am not. I prefer not to be.This is not my invention, I have only replicated the work from this great man, Bill Muller.
...
i can see that the DC/DC convertor voltage switch allows you to control the drive - but i'm interested to know if it is possible to replace the converter altogether by just connecting the buffer cap to the i/p using one or more diodes in series
would you be able to try that at some point?
....
Hi Romero,In this setup all magnets are the same orientation.
Great! Yes I am wondering about the rotor magnet orientation as well.
I notice not all input coils have a magnet on top, you ran out of magnets or was this needed?
Why are there diodes on the full wave rectifiers, more power handling?
Thanks!
Steven
romerouk....has anyone replicated the schematic you presented here? Drawings looks nice but I will like to see it real.
10 000 STARS....
???????????????????????????????????
ROTOR MAGNET S N S N S N
OR
ROTOR MAGNET S S S S S S
????????????????????????????????????
http://freeenergylt.narod2.ru/neogen/
http://depositfiles.com/ru/files/l0njcj24c
http://depositfiles.com/ru/files/pwuiu230e
Hi nul-points,
I apologize for 'chiming' in, I do think a kind of regulator for voltage or current should be included in the feedback loop, otherwise either slowly or suddenly a runaway situation develops in the loop. A battery is an excellent such regulator and you can even abuse it to an extent but the moment you remove it from the setup and you do not care on some regulation, your setup becomes unstable for sure. This is why the input voltage (which is the output voltage from such a regulator) is to be kept under control.
rgds, Gyula
Hi Romero,oh my god ... :) a lot to answer tonight.
I still can't believe IT WORKS !!! Its AMAZING !!!!!!
In the pic of the stators and rotor, you showed the nuts and bolts used to secure a I guess,
aid the magnetic field into the coil. May I ask how you secured the coils to the rotor when you replaced the bolts/screws and nuts withe ferrite.
Also, you mentioned multistrand mag wire for the cores. Can you be more specific, please.
Regards, Penno
@nul-points
I don't want to hear from anyone, steorn or others like them.This info is for all people and free too.
The linked pictures posted by FreeEnergyInfo are confusing me. I would rather like to see the circuit made by RomeroUK :) or at least which pictures/circuits are really necessary to construct the device.OK...
oh my god ... :) a lot to answer tonight.
The coils are made of acrylic and all parts are acrylic - I used dichloromethane to glue them all.
Multistrand made of 7 wires totaling 0.8mm or 0.82mm, not 100% sure.
@romerouk,A3144
Great work.
What is the type of Hall switch you are using?
Thanks,
GL.
A3144
@romerouk,I call it pin 1 the voltage in, from plus goes to pin 1 thru a 100ohm resistor.
Back a few pages you posted a drawing of your switch.
The switching transistor inside the A3144 is a NPN
capable of switching 25mA. In your drawing you did
use a 100 Ohm resistor. Did you use this resistor
as a pull up from pin 3 (collector inside A3144) to
the positive rail?
GL.
Hi Romero,Looping or using a scope to measure the output power will tell the true story.
CONGRATULATIONS! You seem to have a COP=2 setup! Very good.
For any naysayers a possible looping should be practical by using a DC/DC converter, such off the shelf units have at least a COP of 0.8 i.e. a 80% efficiency (or higher), this means the resultant COP still remains around 1.6 (0.8*2) and because you showed 12V output at 2A current (24Watt) the remaining available extra power (beyond the output taken for selfrunning) is at least 5-6Watt:
you can win the overunity price right now!
Here is a possible DC/DC converter I think would be good for looping back your output to input:
http://www.powerstream.com/dc6.htm
rgds, Gyula
I have asked this before but if got missed in the exitement . All the rotor magnets are same pole face up . I feel that this may mean that from a given generator coil , the out put will be not AC , but pulsed DC . If this is true , then a BRIDGE RECTIFIER IS NOT NEEDED.It can be replaced by a single diode . Can anybody confirn or deny this please? Single diode equals less volts drop and higher output .
I call it pin 1 the voltage in, from plus goes to pin 1 thru a 100ohm resistor.
This schematic was used by many others in the shorting coil experiments.It is simple and works great.For my next build I am going to use proper mosfets with dedicated driver circuits...
Looping or using a scope to measure the output power will tell the true story.
The input power (~ 11.3W) is going to be fairly accurate because of the DC source. However Gyula, you should be aware that multiplying an average current by an average voltage of an output produced by induced currents in a coil, is not going to have a power factor of 1, and therefore the simple product of 24W will not be accurate.
Judging by the intensity of the bulb and assuming the efficiency to be 80%, the true output power is likely closer to 8W or 9W.
Nice job on the build R. :)
.99
Not wishing to detract from your achievement but it is my understanding that the A3144 has a built in voltage regulator so no resistor is needed in the supply to pin 1. However, as Ground loop pointed out there should be a 5 to 10K resistor from pin 3 to + supply as a pullup for the open collector.Hi,
Normally this resistor can go from pin 1 to pin 3.
If this sketch came from EV Grey, then a word of caution, several circuits are incorrectly presented.
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Design/hall-effect-sensor-ic-applications-guide/AN27701.pdf
Fig 11
Ron
@I-ron . Thanks for clearing up that point about AC or DC output . @poynt99 .what you say about measurement and power factor is a point I brought up earlier .However , this argument becomes irrelevant in view of the fact that the machine has been looped AND feeds a load at the same time .
I am trying to get a team together to replicate this . One problem with replication can be , do you try to exactly copy the working example or do you use materials to hand to save money . I plan to compromise by building a good shaft and rotor and then experimenting with the other bits .
Here is an important question . What is the orientation of the magnets on top of the coils? If we assume that all rotor magnets are north pole up , are the magnets on top of the coils north pole up or south pole up . Also I need to learn more about Hall effect switches .Obviously , the motor drive coil needs to be energised as a magnet approaches it , and switched off as the magnet comes to its closest point to the coil . I am not quite clear at the moment what causes it to switch off at this point .
Hi folks, well I'm working on a replication, though I will be using 5/16" diameter steel bolts with 24 gauge wire, had 6 already made from previous project, just need to make 4 more and am using 6 - 1" diameter neo magnets on 3/4" mdf rotor, 6" center to center of magnets.I am not sure about the steel bolts, I tried in my first attempts with steel screw and that was a total failure.If you insist using it make sure u have enough gap betwen the coil and the rotor.
Will be using 10 coils total or 5 per side.
Will use hall effect with TIP42. Will start with one coil pair drive.
Will use same 1" diameter neo magnets at back of coil/cores to reduce drag.
I've built similar setups previously, so this will be no problem, just have some drilling and coiling to do yet.
peace love light
tyson
PS: I already have a lot of offers to sell my device:) I have no intention to do that.
First I need to replicate myself then we shall see.
I am trying to get a team together to replicate this . One problem with replication can be , do you try to exactly copy the working example or do you use materials to hand to save money .
Hi,
I understand what you are saying but this is exactly how I used the circuit and it works just fine.As I said before, other people here have replicated that circuit and worked perfec, I think woopy is one of them.I had it running as is from 3.5 volt input to 18v input.
That resistor has a role in my understanding, I don't care in general about the info presented about a product, I am always trying to see it my way and in general I was right.
As I said it works as is.
LOL, I didn't say it didn't work, just that it may not be "good engineering"I understand now.I know there is a lot of improvement that can be done on driving circuit.I used something I tested and used many times before. Any driver circuit will do, even simple bedini if the driving coils are made that way.
Lots of people will be getting their first taste of electronics here now this is out and as a first step it would be best to present the hall in a manner that they can build on latter. As it is this works only on a PNP transistor. When you come to advance to the next level this simplification will not work.
It is working simply by taking the base to ground on activation then letting "leakage" currents take it back to a positive potential to turn off the transistor. All I was suggesting was that this could lead to sloppy imprecise timing.
But again, thank you for sharing the fruits of your research here, it is much appreciated. One question... is the 'helper' magnet separated from the back of the coil by the full thickness of the acrylic? Would you confirm that the switching is to attract in?
Thanks
Ron
Small things can make a huge difference, like my extra diodes on top of the rectifier
All the best,
RomeroUK
hi Romerono need for a sketch, they are in parallel with the one inside the rectifier
is it possible to provide a simple sketch for the connection of the 'extra diodes'?
many thanks
np
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
I understand now.I know
snip
I have spent about one month to do all this testings and adjustments. Small things can make a huge difference, like my extra diodes on top of the rectifier.The gap from the rotor to the coil I had it increased and decreased hundreds of times to get it right.
All the best,
RomeroUK
no need for a sketch, they are in parallel with the one inside the rectifier
@romerouk,Sorry, diameter is 25cm and distance from the rotor to the coils is about 3.5-4mm.
You probably did miss my questions.
What is the diameter of you rotor?
Also, what is the distance from the rotor outer rim and to the Neo magnets?
GL.
Romero,Well you saw something but not quite right. The 2 driver coils are using multistrand from the monitor deflection coils, all others are from the folowing link:http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/st_wire.html
Thanks, I didn't want to get off on the wrong foot... ;)
The multi strand... is it from computer monitor degaussing coils?
I hope not as I just recycled a whole bunch...lol
Rgds, Ron
Sorry, diameter is 25cm and distance from the rotor to the coils is about 3.5-4mm.
@Groundloop
Excellent job, well done!
After looking at the website I bought the wires I realised that is 7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu that makes a bit more than 0.8 mm, all other info is OK.
@romeroukCorrect! nine coils on each side
Could you clear up one little detail? There are eight magnets on the rotor and nine stationary coils correct? I just want to be sure this detail is clear.
Thanks!!!
Hi Groundloop, I am not clear in the following things:
1) How are the 4 driving coils (2 pairs) connected to each other, because the hall circuit shows only one (+) and one (-), but in fact we have 4x2 = 8 wires to connect?
2) The remaining 7 coil pairs: where exactly is the rectifier placed? And which parts are connected in series?
Is it that way: each coilpair (upper+lower) leads into a shared rectifier and from this rectifier the wires are connected in series to the other rectifiers? Or is it different like: each single coil has its own full bridge rectifier which then is connected in...*guessing* ???
Thanks for the schematic this really helps :)
edit: Uh wait, u have 2 caps with different capacity? Is this the big monster cap from the video? but why 2 of them
Hi Groundloop, I am not clear in the following things:the top and the bottom coils makes one coil, both in series +-+- the the 2 ends left connect to the circuit, the same for the other set of 2 coils. look at the picture below
1) How are the 4 driving coils (2 pairs) connected to each other, because the hall circuit shows only one (+) and one (-), but in fact we have 4x2 = 8 wires to connect?
2) The remaining 7 coil pairs: where exactly is the rectifier placed? And which parts are connected in series?
Is it that way: each coilpair (upper+lower) leads into a shared rectifier and from this rectifier the wires are connected in series to the other rectifiers? Or is it different like: each single coil has its own full bridge rectifier which then is connected in...*guessing* ???
@gauschor,The capacitor u see in the video is connected before the DC/DC regulator, direct to the bridge rectifier.I had one at the output but it does not make any difference with the regulator in place
I think @romerouk did say in one of his posts that he did use the small capacitor
on the output from the diode bridges. I may be wrong, but it can't do any harm in any case.
Also not shown in the above drawing is the four 1N4007 diodes soldered in parallel on each diode bridge.
GL.
Hi Romero,
I still can't believe IT WORKS !!! Its AMAZING !!!!!!
In the pic of the stators and rotor, you showed the nuts and bolts used to secure a I guess,
aid the magnetic field into the coil. May I ask how you secured the coils to the rotor when you replaced the bolts/screws and nuts withe ferrite.
Also, you mentioned multistrand mag wire for the cores. Can you be more specific, please.
Regards, Penno
The capacitor u see in the video is connected before the DC/DC regulator, direct to the bridge rectifier.I had one at the output but it does not make any difference with the regulator in place
@romerouk,The capacitor used is 47000uf/25volts.
What was the uF value and voltage rating of you BIG electrolytic capacitor?
GL.
The capacitor used is 47000uf/25volts.
I just had it started manually, no battery.
I turned the rotor few times with my hand to get some charge to the capacitor then switched the converter on.It started ok, no problem.The advantage here is that the circuit starts working from about 3.5 volts.
The capacitor u see in the video is connected before the DC/DC regulator, direct to the bridge rectifier.I had one at the output but it does not make any difference with the regulator in place
@Groundloop
What are you using to do the drawings?
@romerouk,:) I tought u use something more professional.
Microsoft Windows Paint. :-)
GL.
:) I tought u use something more professional.
I call myself an IT engineer and I don't recognize something simple like that... bad for me :)
I have edited the previous post to you
@woopy
good to see you arround.
Regarding the stranded wire:
Some time ago in a Bedini project I have built 2 identical coils but one with normal wire and another with stranded wire.I was using this coils to collect the power from the rotor powered with a Bedini standard circuit.Same core same wire diameter, all the same...
The results at that time(no load): normal wire output was 9.2 volts
stranded wire output was 12.3
since then I have always used stranded for most of my coils
it is easy to do the same experiment like me, actually it would be nice if someone else will confirm this.
I always try everything myself, I don't take all info I found as granted.
If I was wrong I would like someone to tell me.
@Groundloop
one more change to the drawing: input cap 47000uf
this is to important to pass up
I am going to build one, I am not stopping my current project as it will work
as well. will have two motors on the go.
keep every body posted
cheers
@woopy
good to see you arround.
Regarding the stranded wire:
Some time ago in a Bedini project I have built 2 identical coils but one with normal wire and another with stranded wire.I was using this coils to collect the power from the rotor powered with a Bedini standard circuit.Same core same wire diameter, all the same...
The results at that time(no load): normal wire output was 9.2 volts
stranded wire output was 12.3
since then I have always used stranded for most of my coils
it is easy to do the same experiment like me, actually it would be nice if someone else will confirm this.
I always try everything myself, I don't take all info I found as granted.
If I was wrong I would like someone to tell me.
@Groundloop
one more change to the drawing: input cap 47000uf
Hi all,Hi penno,
How wonderful it is to see so many going for it.
I dont know if you are religeous Romero but, GOD BLESS YOU!
Regards, Penno
p.s. Rod, I thought you would like this.
This is what Bruce Tpu says also with stranded wire. If the freq of operation is high, there will be more skin for skin effect to travel in a stranded wire than a solid of the same awg. What freq? dunno.Hi,
Bruce is using litz. I believe its when each strand is coated or insulated from other strands in the same wire casing.
I suppose the insulation whether it be enamel or something like telephone wire, possibly the separation electrically from each other helps in some way.
Good job Romero. ;]
Mags
Hi,
People should understand that when I am talking about stranded wire I am reffering to a bunch of wires isolated from each other.
In my understanding litz wire is a bunch of wires unisolated like in a normal power cord.
I am specifying this just to make sure everyone understands.
English is not my first language, sometimes might have some mistakes...
Regards,
RomeroUK
Hi Romero,If you look at page one you will find a picture that shows it all. - SN-coil NS coil-SN
great work you have done. I have a question about the Muller motor generator:
I just want to be sure about the magnet configuration of the stator-rotor-stator.
From top to bottom, is it really like this???: NS-coil SN coil-NS or SN-coil NS coil-SN so the rotor magnet is in repulsion with stator
Or it is like this confiuration which is what John BEDINI have done (patent 6392370) like this???:
NS-coil NS coil-NS or SN-coil SN coil-SN
Thanks
Vince
I am curious to see how many will actually do anything, many are just waiting and waiting... don't know what.
All the best,
RomeroUK
@RomeroUK,well, whatever :) call it litz, in UK is called Stranded Enamelled Copper -
Litz wire has many enameled copper wires slightly twisted together.
(All wires are insulated from each other.)
I think you meant to say that you are using Litz wire on your coils.
GL.
Well I have started, does that count? lolwell done, first one that shows some progress.
Rgds Ron
well done, first one that shows some progress.
who is next? :)
what is the rotor diameter, thickness?
Thank you, just a cutting from the plastic shop, only 225mm by12.5mm, but was as big as they had.
In scaling up your picture I think your magnets are spaced two magnet diameters apart? Can you say what the ohms are for a single coil?
What RPM does it turn? Pardon me If you have already said all of this, lol
Rgds Ron
well, whatever :) call it litz, in UK is called Stranded Enamelled Copper -
Bunched copper conductors each strand individually enamelled
http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/st_wire.html
7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu
Ref: ST01250007-500
It WORKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !Hoooyahhh! Great Romero! You really do great work and am so glad to see you have found success with this.
I am going to upload the video, is almost 20 minutes of self running.
The skeptics should prepare the arsenal..... :)
Hi RodOh yes. The F&P is very important. I am only going to add this to the project I am not dropping our current project what ever we learn from one will help the
The DC-DC was to required to avoid burning up the driving coils - see back on early pages/posts.
This ensures 12v or wahtever to drive circuits.
Has the F&P crossed your mind in all of this. What a boom that would be eh!
Penno
There has been a lot of talk about the DC to DC converter.
What was its main function. Stepping up the voltage, isolation, both.
Where in this thread is it discussed?
I have a few in my supply box have tried them on other motors but the efficiency was in question what switching chip did you use
Sorry to ask again, but this looks not clear to me: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616)
I thought you'd only need to use 4 diodes like this: http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg (http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg) , therfore I dont understand what this square shaped box in the middle is ???
Sorry to ask again, but this looks not clear to me: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616)The square is a bridge rectifier and diodes are making another rectifier in parallel.
I thought you'd only need to use 4 diodes like this: http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg (http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg) , therfore I dont understand what this square shaped box in the middle is ???
Sorry to ask again, but this looks not clear to me: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616)
I thought you'd only need to use 4 diodes like this: http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg (http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg) , therfore I dont understand what this square shaped box in the middle is ???
with most of the design its a pulse motor of a kind. the one thing i am very interested in is the use of the Litz wire. having seen the wire in old style CRT TVsI had one kg reel.
most of my life. I was always wondering what it may be like in a pulse motor setup. very cleaver use of this wire.
I have no doubt the hole design is relevant to its function but I would not leave out the coil configuration as a major part of its parameters.
having trouble getting the wire here in Aus. the main industrial supplier don't carry it.
How much wire did you buy as an average to build the motor. how much should i order?
cheers
@gauschor,
I think he first did use only the diode bridge. Then later on he added four 1N4007 to get two
diode bridges in parallel. He got more output that way. You can probably take both the bridge
and the 1N4007 away and use some fast Schottky diodes instead.
[Edit] Sorry, I did not see that there was posted answers to this already.
GL.
The square is a bridge rectifier and diodes are making another rectifier in parallel.
The 'helper magnet' is separated from the coil by the thickness of the acrylic (1cm).On the acrylic is glued a 1mm/20mm washer then the magnet on top.
I am driving in attraction mode. I have started the project in repulsion then tried attraction. I get much better torque in attraction.
Hi Romero,Hi Stefan,
many thanks for this wonderful device you have built
and for showing this openly in the public !
Congratulations.
This will really be a candidate for the overunity Prize.
Please don´t change anything on this device and try to rebuild a second unit.
Let me know, if I could come and have a look at it.
Many thanks.
Regards, Stefan.
Hi RomeroUK and congratulations!Hi David,
I believe we only live few miles apart on opposite sides of the River Thames in London :) I know you have had lots of interested parties requesting visits already but if you require any assistance, or a second person to test or validate then my self and my equipment are at your disposal :)
I was already talking to my buddy about replication.
Keep up the good work and best regards,
David.
@romerouk: when you post something here there is a small "Email" icon just below your name on the left side. Anyone can send you emails clicking that icon, however your real email address is still hidden, but the form will send it to your email address. You can however disable this icon completely in your profile settings.I know that but I think if someone is sending an email from the forum I will show that was sent from here, in my case It was sent direct. No problem anyway, there are many places I have my email
...
If anyone is trying to replicate this please remember to do the testing with the load on and compensate the drag with the magnets on top of the coils
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=7394.0 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=7394.0) ::)What are you trying to say with this link? ...that I am a hoaxer too and I am hiding behind MIB reason...
Hi,
People should understand that when I am talking about stranded wire I am reffering to a bunch of wires isolated from each other.
In my understanding litz wire is a bunch of wires unisolated like in a normal power cord.
I am specifying this just to make sure everyone understands.
English is not my first language, sometimes might have some mistakes...
Regards,
RomeroUK
What are you trying to say with this link? ...that I am a hoaxer too and I am hiding behind MIB reason...
It is so easy to stay and watch but just try to be in my position for a second or so... what will you do?
Will you fill your house with people? will you expose your family to unknown situations? if you do then probably you have no family yet.
What are you trying to say with this link? ...that I am a hoaxer too and I am hiding behind MIB reason...
It is so easy to stay and watch but just try to be in my position for a second or so... what will you do?
Will you fill your house with people? will you expose your family to unknown situations? if you do then probably you have no family yet.
Hi Romero,I think we have a confusion with the wires. probably because i call it different that others.I have posted on the previous page the exact type of wire(model, reference number, source) I used for the recovery coils. The driving coils are using wire recovered from the deflection coil in monitors, many wires there, never counted but still totals about 0.8 - 0.9mm
so you are using the wires normally found in AM radio coils ?
These stranded wires that are isolated to each other by candle wax ?
Many thanks.
Regards, Stefan.
Romero, just ignore such posts. That's the only attack-profile these guys have really.I am not the only one who tested and confirmed Kromrey design.
Could you maybe also elaborate a bit on your Kromrey-based device you mentioned a page earlier?
There is some threads on it, but you also seem to be the first man who built that one successfully then.
Keep up the good work!
What are you trying to say with this link? ...that I am a hoaxer too and I am hiding behind MIB reason...
It is so easy to stay and watch but just try to be in my position for a second or so... what will you do?
Will you fill your house with people? will you expose your family to unknown situations? if you do then probably you have no family yet.
2 hall sensors. I will take some closer pictures to see them.The side of the rotor has small magnets with south pointing out.what is the size of the trigger magnets as that determines the pulse width is that a correct assumption.
magnets for hall sensorsyou are a legend. you should be remembered with Tesla.
magnets for hall sensors
Hi Stefan,
I am not planning to change it, I have already started building a new but bigger one.
I should be able to replicate my own work then expect others to do it.
Regarding comming to see it, personally I have no problem with that.
In the last few days I had so many requests from people to come and see it also someone said that it comes to buy it... without any previous discussions. This person calls himself Gary and somehow he's got my email. I don't remember posting my email anywhere here. I had a lot of discussions with my wife regarding this visits,... she is scared and she wants me to sell it and stop working on any device... I don't want to sell it and I have no intentions to do that.
After having my second unit working I might donate this one.
With you I think I have no problem comming here but let me talk with my wife first, the last think I need is a divorce. :)
Best regards,
RomeroUK
how many trigger around the disc ? I assume 8
Hello romerouk and all
My congratulations romerouk on your dedication and hard work towards the research of free energy solutions.
I have a concern on your previous video to the self runner.
Below are frames taken from your video before and after the bulb is turned on. I can see that the amp meter doesn't change however, there is a large drop in your Battery voltage every time the bulb is turned on. Then when the bulb is turned off the battery voltage recovers from the load.
Can you explain. Sorry if this has been explained before.
Thank you for sharing your excellent research.
Luc
I had few questions from the 'replicators' here about voltage on the battery going down when the load is on.
The reason for that is that from the output bridge rectifier I am using one diode to send power back to the battery to keep it charged.When the 20watt bulb is connected the power going back to the battery is reduced resulting that slight voltage drop.
This setup was built for about 25watt load, if the load is increased then all setup must be changed.
The gap from the coils to the rotor must be changed and some other things ...
Hi Romero,
what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the
pickup coil pairs ?
What is the interleaving there ?
Do you have the 2 driving coil pairs next to each other
or are they like:
1 driver coilpair,
4 pickup coil pairs
1 driver coilpair,
3 pickup coil pairs
?
Do you have an magnet polarity measurement device ?
Can you exactly say, if all the magnets inside the rotor
pointing up, when you have the device standing on your table,
are north or are all magnets inside the rotor pointing up
have south pole ?
It might be interesting to know this.
Maybe if you turn around your device on the
head (180 degrees turn),
will it still selfrun ?
So this could be an easy test to see, if your local
earth magnet field has anything to do with it and the devices direction
to it.
Many thanks.
Regards, Stefan.
Yeah, this one is ansswered already, see below:
Basically from my understanding, the 20w bulb is too heavy a load for the system...if it were a 5w bulb, you should see no voltage drop at all.
Hi Romero,what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the
what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the
pickup coil pairs ?
What is the interleaving there ?
Do you have the 2 driving coil pairs next to each other
or are they like:
1 driver coilpair,
4 pickup coil pairs
1 driver coilpair,
3 pickup coil pairs
?
Do you have an magnet polarity measurement device ?
Can you exactly say, if all the magnets inside the rotor
pointing up, when you have the device standing on your table,
are north or are all magnets inside the rotor pointing up
have south pole ?
It might be interesting to know this.
Maybe if you turn around your device on the
head (180 degrees turn),
will it still selfrun ?
So this could be an easy test to see, if your local
earth magnet field has anything to do with it and the devices direction
to it.
Many thanks.
Regards, Stefan.
So Romero has gone from a large voltage drop with battery connected when the bulb is on to a self runner using the same load with no battery connected?Hi,
These are amazing improvements!!!
@Romero, can you please redo a continuous sound video with your Muller on a glass (away from the legs) showing it running the load with no battery. Please do a view under the glass and all around as it is running.
Thanks for sharing and your time.
Luc
what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the
pickup coil pairs ? I don't understand this question.
The 2 driver coils are not next to each other, one coil is on one side and the other exactly on the other side.
All magnets on the rotor are all pointing same direction, as you look at the device all magnets are with South up. I have never tried to run it upside down because of the dirving circuits but I will try it having it on one side.
I don't have a magnet polarity measurement device.
what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the pickup coil pairs ? I don't understand this question.
If I understood correctly, stefan is asking about the relative position of the driving coils. Namely you have 2 pairs for driving purpose, and 7 pairs for power generation. Those pairs are evenly fixed on the stator plates. If we number the pairs clockwise from 1 through 9, and let the first pair be a driving coil pair, the question is, what is the number for the other driving pair?
Hmm,
now I don´t understand your answer.
You say you have 9 coil pairs.
Which coil pairs are the 2 drivers and which coil pairs
are the pickup coil pairs ?
So Romero has gone from a large voltage drop with battery connected when the bulb is on to a self runner using the same load with no battery connected?
These are amazing improvements!!!
@Romero, can you please redo a continuous sound video with your Muller on a glass (away from the legs) showing it running the load with no battery. Please do a view under the glass and all around as it is running.
Thanks for sharing and your time.
Luc
@Arthurs . Please respect that Romerouk is under pressure . Please read through all the thread and that will answer 99% of your questions . There are 8 equally spaced magnets on the rotor .Hope that helps .I'm sorry, and thank you for answers!
Hi RomeroHi,
how a lot of question and thank's so much to have this patience.
I am at my shop and doing the rotor. I would like to be very near from your config.
So I have a small problem. If i take some measurement on your set up and my CAD drawing, it seems that the spacing between magnets arround the disk is not correct if i use 20mm diameter magnet on a 25 cm rotor disk.
On my CAD design or the rotor is 25 cm and in this case the magnet should be 25 mm diameter, or the rotor is 20 cm diameter and the magnet are 20 mm diameter
Can you please remeasure your rotor disk diameter and 20 mm magnet diameter.
( on the pix the black circle are the magnet 20 mm and the red circle are the coil with the 6 mm ferrite core the rotor is 20 cm diameter. the wood rotor bottom is 25 cm and you see the 20 mm diameter magnet seems very small on this disk)
Many thanks
Good luck for the future ;)
Laurent
I believe I read that he is using two hall sensors. I also believe I read that we are trying to activate the pickup coils at TDC of the magnet.The 2 driving coils are running independently, not activating at the same time, that is what I need, to have the second coil activating when the other one is completely off
Which of those two statements are incorrect? Or both? With a 9/8 ratio of magnets to coils, and only two hall sensors to set trigger points, I don't see how it is possible for each of the coils to activate at the same relative position to the nearest approaching magnet. Looking at the CAD drawing woopy took a photo of illustrates this.
Wouldn't it be the case that each coil would need its own hall sensor?
Thanks Rom!
Hi,
I don't have a glass that size but I will organise something like having it hanging with a piece of string, maybe that is even better.
A plea to all computer wizz kids . I would not know a cad if it jumped up and bit me . Could someone post a diagram of two circles ,with lines radiating from the centre to the circumference . One circle to have 8 spokes and one 7 spokes . Then one could print these , stick them to discs , and use them as a drilling guide for rotor and stator . Just a thought .
Maybe it would help to know the math for the angles between coils and also magnets. Easy enough to calculate at 45° for 8 equally spaced in a circle and 40° for 9 equally spaced in the circle. A couple basic drafting tools (even school kids type should work) and you can do the layout. Just put coils and magnets same exact distance from center on these angles and you've got it. That way you don't even need to know the distance between them as long as the angles are correct and the distance from absolute center is the same.
Hi Romero,
Congratulations! Very well done, indeed. Thank you for publicly showing your working replication of the Muller device.
Hi Groundloop,
Your drawing, showed the magnets between the coil ends and the rotor, in repulsion, but Romero, says he is driving them in attraction, yet approved your drawing. I would just like clarification, and if it is attraction, to readjust the picture perhaps.. ;) Aside from that, the picture is awesome, and a big help. Thank you!
At ALL,
The individually stranded wire, in Romero's setup is simply reducing the resistance of the wire, allowing for greater output. Often, coils are engineered with large diameter wire, for low resistance, but often, this results in lower number of turns, thus less inductance per coil. This is easily overcome, by using individually insulated wire, for even less resistance, and also a greater number of turns per coil resulting in greater inductance, less resistance and greater output. Take the resistance of the wire, for said number of feet (length) and divide that by the number of wires you are running in parallel, and this will give you the new resistance of said stranded wire.
Cheers,
Bruce
Further to Bruce`s post above . How to make your own Litz wire for these coils . Get some enamelled wire with a diameter of 0.125 mm . Your local electric motor rewind shop is a good source .This wire is very thin so work carefully . First and hardest part is estimating the length of wire needed for each coil .Let us guess , an average length of one inch per turn . So 300 turns would be 300 inches or 25 feet . If your workshop is less than 25 feet long , work outside . Mount 2 hooks 25 feet apart facing each other , on wall bench clothes posts etc . Attach the loose end of your wire to a hook , walk to the other hook , loop the wire round it and walk back . Walk back and forth 7 times , looping at each hook until you have made 7 trips .Tie off the wire at the hook and cut the wire . Bind the 7 strands together with tape near each hook . Now slip one end of the bundle off a hook andput a screwdriver through the loop where the hook fitted . Use the screwdriver to twist the strands together loosely . Cut off the loop at one end and carefully remove the enamel and solder the wires together . Use this end to start winding your coil , and wind the desired number of turns .You will then probably find your bundle was too long .cut off the excess and measure it . Subtract its length from 25 feet , and adjust your hooks for the next performance . Finally strip and solder the ends together .Hope this will help someone .
Hi, I am still not 100% clear on the electric circuit in how the remaining things are connected, in which order and where to. I have now drawn a picture, can someone look at it and correct it if its wrong and clear up the few points where I added a question mark?
@toranarod .Poverty is a great educator ! Pleased to be of service ,but thats what these threads are for .If we all put something in , the net result will be wonderful .Thanks for posting the rotor diagram . Do you plan to one for the stator please .thank you
Hi, I am still not 100% clear on the electric circuit in how the remaining things are connected, in which order and where to. I have now drawn a picture, can someone look at it and correct it if its wrong and clear up the few points where I added a question mark?
thanks thats a great idea
I have the wire never accrued to me to wind my own.
@groundloop and our other EE wizzkids
I can't remember if this has been mentioned before
I have been searching around for the Hall effect sensors and have found the A3144uea has been discontinued.
One of the manufacturers suggests the A1120EUA-T as an alternative
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6 (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6)
would you agree this is what we need?
@groundloop and our other EE wizzkids
I can't remember if this has been mentioned before
I have been searching around for the Hall effect sensors and have found the A3144uea has been discontinued.
One of the manufacturers suggests the A1120EUA-T as an alternative
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6 (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6)
would you agree this is what we need?
Here is my replication of a Muller Dynamo with few addons.
Muller generator magnets and coils were odd and even numbers. Like 17 magnets and 16 coils (or something like that) Looks like you created your own version.
ROMEROUK GENERATOR
Here is the manufacturer recommendation on replacement:
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Part_Numbers/3141/
so it is type A1104 which is available as replacement.
EDIT type A1120 is a more precise (chopper stabilized) type, probably more expensive, with the same voltage and 25mA output current ratings. So not really needed once the A1104 would do. Of course prices are to be compared, I do not know by heart... :) ALSO: any such type should work like toranarod suggests above
Gyula
@neptune
What is your longest looped run to date please?
Well the longest is the one I have recorded yesterday(about 20 min), after that I had no patience to sit and just look at it.I have some other projects in progress but this weekend I will have it running over night.
I hope we are witnessing the beginning of an energy revolution.
Which will lead to Being able to grow food anywhere any time of day,Travel as far as you want as often as you want, we all dream of it, is now the time when the dream becomes true ?
Hi RomeroUKI had it running almost 5.5 hours without complaints from the neighbours
Were you successful in running the device overnight? Last time you said it ran 'looped' for 3.5 hrs. but was trying to run it longer until the neighbors complain? Can you update us please? Thanks.
cheers
chrisC
I had it running almost 5.5 hours without complaints from the neighbours
That's great news Romero. ;)I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.
How much load (presumably a bulb) did you have on it during this time?
.99
Hi All,
I compiled a PDF file with all the important informations and graphics:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=469
Regards, Stefan.
Ah I still got a question about the 2 Hall sensors (I didn't find the exact info the previous pages):Let's clarify some points regarding the sensors:
First of all I assume that the 8 small magnets (the ones pointing outwards on the side of the rotor) are in line with the 8 larger magnets. Is this correct?
Then the final question is: at which positions are the 2 Hall sensors placed: are both hall sensors just placed "before" each one of the driver coils? With "before" I mean in rotation direction before the driver coil)
I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.
I tried to add the bulb before the dc convertor but there is more than 12 volts and the bulb will not last.
This DC converter is max 3amp but I am very happy about it plus the price was very low. Nice device and I think that all people should have one, it helps a lot in any other builds where people are trying self looping.I has even load protection and thermal protection too.I have tried for a second a 50w bulb as load and it switched off imediately.
To ALL:
This generator can be driven by many other circuits or from an external motor connected to the shaft.Don't concentrate too much on the circuit used to drive the coils, that is simple.
As Romero stated the pulse driving of this generator is not important at all. That is only a method to turn the rotor. Its only the construction and detail to the generator CORES and MAGNETS which provides the OU.
Yes first there is an odd number of coils to magnets this helps prevent no load cogging as each field is overlapped. But under load it begins to bog down again UNLESS the cores are Re-gauged. By adding another magnet to the back side of each coil the coil once pulsed becomes latched in north or south pole state. Lets say the coil is latching South it approaches a South facing magnet and tries to repel against the coil. Normally the greater the current from the last magnet pass the greater the latching as it approaches a new magnet so the lugging increases. The Re-gauging RESETS the coil by forcing back the flux in the opposite direction but it actually over shoots! This creates a north biased coil attracted fast to a south pole magnet and provides free acceleration energy into the system.:) the magnets on top of the coils ideea came from Magnacoasters, I am working on that too but nothing like OU there yet. I am using the computer to generate the pulses.I do believe that Magnacoasters is genuine.
The solid state version of this is called ....wait for it = MAGNACOASTER. :) This is why magnacoaster has 5 neos one end and one the other with a measured tuned GAP. Yes its OU.
More abrupt the process is Bloch wall modulation where the return or re-gauging bias is an over shoot of energy from the back end magnet.
:) the magnets on top of the coils ideea came from Magnacoasters, I am working on that too but nothing like OU there yet. I am using the computer to generate the pulses.I do believe that Magnacoasters is genuine.
The rotovertor versions I tried about one year ago had about 33w minimum, in my case nothing like 10w or so but I did not oped the bearings to clean them.
I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.Got one just like that DC-DC conveter in a garage sale for 50 cents :D
I tried to add the bulb before the dc convertor but there is more than 12 volts and the bulb will not last.
This DC converter is max 3amp but I am very happy about it plus the price was very low. Nice device and I think that all people should have one, it helps a lot in any other builds where people are trying self looping.I has even load protection and thermal protection too.I have tried for a second a 50w bulb as load and it switched off imediately.
@groundloop and our other EE wizzkids
I can't remember if this has been mentioned before
I have been searching around for the Hall effect sensors and have found the A3144uea has been discontinued.
One of the manufacturers suggests the A1120EUA-T as an alternative
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6 (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6)
would you agree this is what we need?
7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu 500g
If the wire comes in 500g rolls anybody know how much we would need to make all the coils in the motor?
any ideas Please?
Yes first there is an odd number of coils to magnets this helps prevent no load cogging as each field is overlapped. But under load it begins to bog down again UNLESS the cores are Re-gauged. By adding another magnet to the back side of each coil the coil once pulsed becomes latched in north or south pole state. Lets say the coil is latching South it approaches a South facing magnet and tries to repel against the coil. Normally the greater the current from the last magnet pass the greater the latching as it approaches a new magnet so the lugging increases. The Re-gauging RESETS the coil by forcing back the flux in the opposite direction but it actually over shoots! This creates a north biased coil attracted fast to a south pole magnet and provides free acceleration energy into the system.
The solid state version of this is called ....wait for it = MAGNACOASTER. :) This is why magnacoaster has 5 neos one end and one the other with a measured tuned GAP. Yes its OU.
More abrupt the process is Bloch wall modulation where the return or re-gauging bias is an over shoot of energy from the back end magnet.
Well i made a good guess then (educated one) LOL Of course solid state is the goal and you will get there very soon. I think everyone has to go through the learning curve of OU machines first then later solid state. Like you i KNOW magnacoaster is real and you have just proven it beyond any doubt with your generator. It just opens a new can of worms in controlling the HUGE amount of OU power. Plenty of burnt coils and blown fets.
Well when you make your big machine go get that old RV out the shed take off the fan, clean the bearings in petrol and WD40 and just add one drop of sewing machine oil. It should spin by hand for 40 seconds very easy. Now you got a very efficient motor that can run on 10 watts and use ALL the coils as genheads. A small 250w inverter will run the RV motor easy and just retune the run cap to match the rotor at full rpm and load.
BTW you should get some sleep its 2 am:)
If i may speak is BEST everyone to refrain from theories and old unproved concepts and focus on what Romero has ended up with.
First replicate, with all the meaning of the word i.e. not major changes (anyway, every one likes replicas), and then once successfully done, investigate yourself.
snip..
This is the discovered secret IMO thanks to Romero's experimenting skill.
If i may speak is BEST everyone to refrain from theories and old unproved concepts and focus on what Romero has ended up with.
First replicate, with all the meaning of the word i.e. not major changes (anyway, every one likes replicas), and then once successfully done, investigate yourself.
Let's clarify some points regarding the sensors:
not both of them are using the small magnets.I started originally with both using the small magnets to switch then I tried to move one to get max results.
The second one is facing the big magnets from the top.This one from the top is activated after the magnet passed, the other one on the side of the rotor is activated like 1mm after the magnet passed the center coil.
This is difficult to explain, testing yourself will get you there but do the testing separate not both of then at the same time.
I am thinking to double the number of coils and magnets too. 3 driving coils will be better.
Let's clarify some points regarding the sensors:Hello Romero,
not both of them are using the small magnets.I started originally with both using the small magnets to switch then I tried to move one to get max results.
The second one is facing the big magnets from the top.This one from the top is activated after the magnet passed, the other one on the side of the rotor is activated like 1mm after the magnet passed the center coil.
This is difficult to explain, testing yourself will get you there but do the testing separate not both of then at the same time.
Wow, just got in from work and had to catch up a lot. Excellent work here everyone.
I submit that Romero has made enough changes and improvements to the Muller device that it is now essentially a new device. I mean, a car is still a car but there is a big difference between a Model T and a 2011 Corvette. (Romero's device being the Corvette)
This is astounding work here and exciting times.
Bill
Surely this design of RomeroUK is a lot more simpler to build and test...
I think we can also give a component list here. I'll start by:
1. 1 rotor plate and 2 stator plates.
2. 8 + 2 X 9 = 26 neomagnets, 20mm dia, 10mm thick, N38 rating.
3. 2 X 9 = 18 ( coils + ferrite rods + soft iron washers)
4. circuit components...
You are welcome to make corrections or add more details.
I was seeing some A3144 Hall sensors on eBay from Chinese sellers. They usually ship world wide and good prices too. Not sure on the quality.I bought my sensors on ebay, from China. I bought 40, I always buy more than I need, just in case... :)
I believe I read somewhere Romerouk used 2 kg. of that wire so I guess 4 rolls of the 500 gram wire.I had a big reel but not used all, I am not sure how much I used.
You are likely going to hear about it and what will be said in the coming days or hours or weeks who knows they will talk about the following things.I tried to do a hanging video yesterday but all device started to rotate and going crazy... after that gotoluc said that if don't do it properly then better don't.
The fact that the table is plastic and has nice big hollow legs.
And the fact that you have a 12v lithium drill with a 1/8" drill bit under your table at 17:18 on this video... Sitting right next to them big hollow legs of that table.
I think yes the best test would be for you to do a suspension test I can see all of the shit slinging trolls coming out of the closet here soon might as well put them to rest as soon as possible imho . Seems it always happens even when people are not conclusively I believe proved wrong something just dies out because of the replication process being a bit more advanced then most have the time money or mental capacity to complete a strong proving series of there own ever since cold fusion it has been this way probably even long before this even Tesla with wardencliff ... He was made a mockery and we first finally now start to acknowledge his achievements in the time of "peak oil" which is another false term imho that I would prefer to believe there is no peak yet I believe with all the shale and other things oil abundance could still keep us rolling for over a century at our current rate of growth but with everything getting greener I estimate it would even last much longer.
I tried to do a hanging video yesterday but all device started to rotate and going crazy... after that gotoluc said that if don't do it properly then better don't.
I will do it anyway, I migh be able to keep it in the air with one hand and record with the other or... we'll see
That drill has nothing to do ... :) I didn't even think about removing it from there.
I will also try to use another capacitor, smaller, as gotoluc sugested, people might think I have batteries inside ...
I'm taking all this information in as fast as I can and I have a few suggestions for RomeroUK.I think that if I have 8 magnets on the rotor and any other greater uneven numbers of coils will work even better.
1) make sure you document everything, it's very important.
2) continue to explore why you got the results you did and what are the critical factors, we need to determine the fundamental principle so we can duplicate easily and also scale up the design.
It sounds like the Muller arrangement of having one more coil on the stator than magnets on the rotor, i.e. 8 to 9 ratio, is a primary factor of importance, along with the fact that magnets are biasing the ferrite cores. The biasing is critical in eliminating the hysteresis losses, and the motor pulsing arrangement is another very low loss mechanism, so I second what bolt was saying, don't build some cheap setup, go for perfection and eliminate as many losses as possible.
An interesting observation I made is that the ferrite is biased and the rotor magnets are in opposition. This means the B-H curve is traversed from high H values to low H values and then back, as a magnet on the rotor approaches a stator coil, passes under it, and then departs away. I think this cycling of the B-H curve from high-to-low and then back is very significant! Romero, you might want to experiment and reverse all the polarities of the magnets only on the stators, and see if it still works.
EM
RomerUK,I am making sure I don't risk brakeing it, I would die...
In my humble opinion, i would not risk hanging your device on a string.
Better yet, i would not risk anything at all with it.
Most of us believe your intentions and observations.
Better to focus on a replication first.
Not that I wanna tell you how to handle, i trust your judgment. Keep up the good work!
Hi RomeroUKThank you Joe,
Here is the link to online shop where I buy all the parts on the picture:
Sprocket Carrier 30mm
https://www.kart-schuette.de/karts_en/sprocket-carrier-30mm-1.html (https://www.kart-schuette.de/karts_en/sprocket-carrier-30mm-1.html)
They are aluminium and very well made. On the site bellow is the picture with all measures.
Joe
I am making sure I don't risk brakeing it, I would die...
I know that if I show all of it then people will have more confidence in replicating it.
I have a friend here on the forum that I shared info for some time and he is saying that it is not possible to have such success with my devices and all others don't. :) I uderstand him and others but my answer is very simple: Put your heart in what you do, in all work you do and believe you can do anything, never give up.
I know it sounds stupid for many but this is my belief. Even if I cook something (soemtimes) I am doing it with great pleasure.
I think that people with bad heart and black soul will never succeed in anything.
Regards,
RomeroUK
Better material for the core will improve substantially.
People should pay attention for the core material, that is one of the most important keys in this setup togheter with the spacing arangement.
Well I have started, does that count? lol
Rgds Ron
romerouk,I am busy with so many things going and it is much easier to answer questions than having all answers in one document. There are many people ou there who can do that if they wish and I can do corrections after that.
Nice work. Thank you for sharing.
Stop risking a floor crash, keep it on a table! Some will simply say that you could have thin wire routed along with your cotton string, (just out of focus of your camera,) powering your device externally. What have we gained?
I agree with you: get more successful-replications running.
I agree with EMdevices: document the details and try to discover the fundamentals.
We would appreciate some more graphic details, maybe arrows and lines on top of actual photo images, showing these timing adjustment ranges that you wrote of earlier. Please include some 'if-then' situations from your experience.
Stop and review some of your replies here and elaborate upon those those not yet covered in your original document. The more detail that you provide in one document, the better chance you have of achieving your goal of sharing the stage.
Thanks again, man!
If i may speak is BEST everyone to refrain from theories and old unproved concepts and focus on what Romero has ended up with.
First replicate, with all the meaning of the word i.e. not major changes (anyway, every one likes replicas), and then once successfully done, investigate yourself.
....
@bolt,
regarding RV it maybe work at extremely high electric to mechanic energy conversion in comparison to pulsed motors etc but the effect Romero shows that with load application (i.e. bulb and pulse motor) not affecting even slightly the device is outstanding at least and cannot be seen anywhere! (especially if there is not any considerable cogging torque present)
This is the discovered secret IMO thanks to Romero's experimenting skill and will to share.
Why do you stress so much about the no battery's inside??
Did you ever turn a generator by hand to lite up a 12 volt 20 Watt bulb?
It needs alot of kinetic energy to do that.
Which is why i can tell your device is a fraud.
That rotor is spinning way too slow to burn that lightbulb but it seems i am the only one that sees that.
Maybe that is because I actually used a lot of hand driven generators...whilst the rest of the members never did since they can just plug things in.
Not trying to jump ahead too fast, but does anyone see the possibility of a non-rotational version?
Bolt, are you saying the key is that the generator coils experience no or little cemf?
.99
The generator coils experience cemf depending on the load but at some point the speed goes up now down.
People should see the whole picture, don't look at a single coil, look at the other coils too at the same time.
Looks that we have a member(Microcontroller) that is 100% sure that this is a fraud, ha, ha, well u got me :)
@Romerouk . please when you get a minute , can you give your opinion on the 10mm ferrite rods from old radio .I know several people are thinking of using these .I have used them in some other projects and worked good. Best will be mumetal or simmilar but the price is huge.
@everyone . suggestions wanted for a small efficient 12 volt drive motor for initial testing ..I wonder if a motor from an old video player might work .
Romero Please don't waste too much time on these people. There is only so much you can do in a video demonstration. Even if you tried to make everything as clean as possible some will suggest you are using microwaves, tapping the power lines, oh yes do you have a power line over head hint hint, hidden batteries, even specially edited video! The same thing has always happened from the TPU, Kapanadze, Sweet VTA, Muller, Moray etc apparently these are ALL fakes according to the hardcore elite debunkers LOL Same thing last Xmas with looped HHO genset. That has to be fake right? no way can something be looped and run by itself.:)Thank you for your support!
I have used them in some other projects and worked good. Best will be mumetal or simmilar but the price is huge.
The generator coils experience cemf depending on the load but at some point the speed goes up now down.
People should see the whole picture, don't look at a single coil, look at the other coils too at the same time.
Looks that we have a member(Microcontroller) that is 100% sure that this is a fraud, ha, ha, well u got me :)
I ordered the magnets.The answer is B, the core is not in contact with the magnet but goes half way
Next step are the coils.
As I'm an electrical noob i have a few silly questions:
I'm i correct i can use a (in this case 0.125 ) wire , take 7 strings connect the endings and wind those all at the same time 300 times around the coil ?
I could not quite see how the coil is connected to the stationary disc.
Could someone tell me if it would be A, B, C or D? Or Else?
Just uploaded a new video with the generator suspended.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iNrjKFSLu4
It sure does Ron!
I'm looking forward to seeing your build. I've seen previous results of your mechanical skills
so I know you'll do good.
Looking forward to (hopefully) some more positive results and the ensuing lively discussion.
Heres something Romero said back on page 5.
"The distance between the coils and the rotor must be adjusted depending on the magnets used, core... Too close is not neccesary good."
Sound familiar to you Ron ?. Someone I know has mentioned this in detail before, on another site?.
It may have even been me !! LOL.
P.S. - Thinking aloud ... Open Magnetic Sytems. They're full of surprises! LOL
Cheers all .... KneeDeep
I think you completely missed the point of what i was saying. First it is not the replication that is important it is understanding the method and using Re-gauging on the back end of the coils to null out the lugging. This is a magnacoaster method and something some of us have discussed for a long time.
The drive of the rotor is not important as the pulse motor is only used to provide rotation. Any method of rotation can be used so long as its very efficient. Already you will see no two devices will be the same as everyone will use the materials they have available to them. The magnets will be different strengths, the cores wound different, different core materials, the number of coils and magnets are probably going to be different BUT they all have a good chance of working if the re-gauging back end magnet is carefully selected to null the BEMF.
And Indeed Romero has suggested others try bigger coils and rotors to get more power. Alike the Joule Thief no two are the same yet most of them work!
For using 3 phase RV provides cheap method of construction with professional bearing and platform to mount a rotor. The perspex doesn’t come cheap either. A3 sheets of the stuff 12mm thick cost a small fortune!! RV provides an extremely efficient drive motor which can spin a very large rotor down to a few watts.
http://youtu.be/duWxzwLEMxM
Now bolt the genhead stator and rotor direct to the motor shaft and you got your muller without using pulse drive and ALL the coils then become generator coils.
GentsI am not worried about the 'nasty' posts, they should be left posted.
Regarding The "Nasty" Posts!
Looks Like Stefan Is Keeping The Vibes Positive over here! [deletes the "nasty"]
Just the Way Romero Likes it!
History In the making!!
Chet
Hi Romerouk:I am using 7x0.125mm wire, the same with multiple Enameled wire.Maybe untwisted wires might do better as Bruce is saying in the TPU replication.It is worth testing all small things to get the best of it.
Because my English is not good, A lot of content can only guess, On the multi-strand wire, This issue is really important to me, please answer:
1) a recommended 0.8mm multistrand,
2) Another way of saying they recommended 7x0.125mm litz wire,
But: accurate mapping from the actual point of view, 7x0.125mm litz wire of the total cross section diameter of 0.375mm, And 0.8mm diameter cross section a lot of difference.
I understand wrong? What is the right choice?
PS: multi-strand wire in the end is the option of using multi-strand bare copper wire? or choose to use multiple Enameled wire?
Thanks you helping
SCREW THE GOVERNMENT!!
NP,
For constant power to a given load, post DC-DC works best.
But I agree, for the best efficiency of power transfer to the load, it should be placed pre DC-DC, as long as the load can handle the worst-case power surge possible going into it.
.99
You can also build your own DC to DC regulator.
LM338 can handle 5 Ampere if on a heat sink.
GL.
hi allI am using the bulb at dc regulator output only because before the regulator I have about 15 volts, but I could use 2 10w bulbs in series there.
please excuse if this is a DFQ**
(i've just looked thro' thread again and can't see this addressed previously, but with *my* eyesight you never know!)
in GL's diag, ok'd by Romero, the load (lamp) is shown as AFTER the DC-DC Converter
surely, it should be BEFORE the converter? (ie across the 47000uF buffer cap)
since the converter is, say, 80% efficient then 20% of all energy which enters it gets dissipated mostly as heat (ie. wasted)
if we put the load on the cap side then none of its energy gets wasted by the converter, am i right?
of course the converter is used to keep the voltage stable for the drive coils, so we have to accept the 20% (say) loss for their energy
but the convertor only NEEDS to stop any EXCESS energy going to the drive coils
so ALL additional excess is available to power any external load(s)
any comments? (or should i just start taking my meds again?)
great teamwork all !
np
(DFQ** = Damn Fool Question)
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
Hi Romero:http://www.maplin.co.uk/universal-3a-dc-power-supply-228639
I really want to know the DC-DC converter which is what?
-----------------------------------------------------
I am very worried about hidden inside a battery.
-----------------------------------------------------
Very much hope that you can use facts to eliminate my doubts.
If you have offended, please forgive, because so far no one has successfully copied.
Thanks Romerouk
@everyone
Am I correct in thinking Muller used magnetite powder at one point?
Lots of things to try out at some point :)
Thanks RomeroukBill Muller stated that he was using magnetite powder. I have never tried but I do have about 1kg of magnetite powder and I will have to build a core and compare with ferrite.
@everyone
Am I correct in thinking Muller used magnetite powder at one point?
Lots of things to try out at some point :)
RomeroUK,Does not operate with them in reverse, even if I turn one the system goes crazy.
thank you for your previous answers and new video.
One question I have is: does the device operate with the stator magnets reversed? Have you tried that in the past?
EM
the convertor only NEEDS to stop any EXCESS energy going to the drive coils
so ALL additional excess is available to power any external load(s)
[...]
But I agree, for the best efficiency of power transfer to the load, it should be placed pre DC-DC, as long as the load can handle the worst-case power surge possible going into it.
[...]
[...]
but you could put a load across the Cap ahead of the supply (I think you mentioned a 50 watt load at one time) and keep loading it down till you had it down to about 6-7 volts at 12VDC into the motor from the switcher and it would show how much power is really available! I suspect more than you think.
[...]
[...]
before the regulator I have about 15 volts, but I could use 2 10w bulbs in series there.
[...]
Hi, like some others I want to point out importance of the core material.
Attempts to use solid metal cores or even laminations will likely be futile.
With low power system good RF ferrite with low eddy loss should work but
for full sized system getting proper core material is very problematic.
So if people here have magnetite on hands then it would be good time
to try this out:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7468-how-can-i-make-good-magnetic-sand-cores.html#post131820
To make it more visual there is video:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=470
This is my litte test device for trying this and that. Basically
pulse motor. At first I did drive coil average Joe style, on steel
bolt. Minimal possible drive voltage was then 0.5V. After that
I constructed drive coil on oversized RF ferrite core. Minimal
possible drive voltage settled at 0.1V and it got a lot more
efficent overall.
Now what I do in the video is just remove totally unused and
unshorted old drive coil from the system (running on new coil at 0.2V).
Pretty dramatic acceleration of rotor occurs.
So to sum it up... Presence of any conductive material in the
rotor field besides windings severly degrades performance.
Electricity has no reason whatsoever to form in windings if
it has alternative paths... be it core, frame details etc.
BTW romerouk, have you tried it with air coils. Maybe it is not critical
to have cores? I say this because current cores are rather undersized for given magnets/coils
and likely get totally saturated. Do they really play significant role at all... ?
Or maybe it is the role... sort of saturable reactor?
NP,
For constant power to a given load, post DC-DC works best.
But I agree, for the best efficiency of power transfer to the load, it should be placed pre DC-DC, as long as the load can handle the worst-case power surge possible going into it.
.99
I have air core coils in my Muller and it does NOT give out any free energy. I think the smartest thing to do is to replicate romerouk's setup.
Hi Gyula,
Hi Romero,
I think you can reduce the input current draw for the Hall switch + the TIP42C by inserting a series resistor between Pin 3 of the Hall and the base of the TIP42. As it is shown in the schematic
( http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3842.0;attach=52576 )
Pin 3 is an open collector and directly connected to the +12V via the base-emitter junction of the transistor, there is no any current limiting for the junction and for the inside Hall switching transistor.
I do realize that your circuit works as it is shown but I guess at least a 30 - 40mA current draw could be saved per one TIP42C by inserting a 680 Ohm to 1 kOhm resistor between Pin 3 and the base electrode while the switching would take place still safely, for both TIP42s.
What do you think? perhaps you have considered and tried this?
Thanks, Gyula
Hi,Romero, I totally agree with you on those requesting more video's for proof like disassembling the DC converter. You will never satisfy such people and they are just wasting your time. Don't let them drag you down with this nonsense. Those who know your work know you are not trying to fool anyone. And anyone with common sense would know that since you are not asking for money and won't even consider selling your motor as well as the fact you are doing everything possible to help everyone replicate this that there is no possible reason you would be fooling people. If you were it would only make you look bad and would accomplish nothing positive for you or anyone. So people please consider all that has been given and know that the only real proof will be you building a replication and doing the work of tuning it properly if it does not work the first time you fire it up.
most of the questions have answers already, please read all posts... I am tired to just answer same questions hundreds of times.
The coils are 1cm usable, the inside between the ends, in total 1.2cm and diameter 2.2cm
the core ferrite 1.5cm/6mm diameter.
I have tried without cores but less performance, higher speed but low output.
I will not do other videos, this way, everyday I will find someone to suggest something else.
For all replicators.
After some tests today and changed one pair of coils, same type of wire but 1.5cm diameter ferrite core, 1.5cm long.
Still 1cm winding space on the coil on 3.5cm diameter coil.I have doubled the number of turns to 600 for each coil.
This was done just for one pair of coils, recovery not driver coils.
The output is increased but for more I will need to change them all to balance the system but I wont do that, is to much unnecessary work, I wanted to check and apply to the new system.
Don't even think of using metal or laminations for the cores.
I had another request to sell it. I HAVE NO INTENTIONS TO SELL IT. - please no more.
I have air core coils in my Muller and it does NOT give out any free energy.Special for Groundloop and the others helping with drawings and info
I think the smartest thing to do is to replicate romerouk's setup.
GL.
Special for Groundloop and the others helping with drawings and info
To get to the point where you will get even a little bit out than in requires a lot of time and work. Check every part of the system, part by part, then when you think is tuned start again.
Let me give u an example:
If u have 10 parts in your system and after jumping from testing the first then second up to 10, when u finished you start again. It can be that part 3 is not as before after u adjusted any other part after. Once you retried everything and got best of all adjustments then you are nearly there.
Do all this testings without having the rectifiers connected together.Measure every coil separately. Even if you don't get too much out from the coils, don't worry, when all are connected things will go magic.
A DC/DC Converter is a must.
Don't rush, I have spent about a month to get here.
Once u past the point and for 1 you get even 1.1 then things are easy
Success!
@omerouk,
Thank you for the tips. I have had my Muller for 8 years. I have tried several 100th of variations
for motor driving and generator outputs. My Muller is made in a CNC machine. All the coils are
factory made. So there is not much I can tune. All I can do is trying to add Ferrite cores to
my coils. There is no way I can get my magnets out of the rotor to try all the same pole out.
The magnets are glued to the rotor with a strong Epoxy. So I'm stuck with the NSNSNSNS configuration.
I have no spare time to build a new Muller now. But I will get time next winter. Then I will build
an Acrylic one and make as a close replica to your Muller as possible.
GL.
GL:
Depending upon your rotor material, a little heat will remove your magnets easily. Of course, it will probably be above the Curie temp. for the magnets so you would have to replace them, but at least they would be off of your rotor. Heat will work no matter what type of epoxy was used.
I hope this helps.
Bill
I have air core coils in my Muller and it does NOT give out any free energy.
I think the smartest thing to do is to replicate romerouk's setup.
GL.
Below is a picture with the scope connected at the AC point before bridge.
@hartiberlin
Hi, I would do all this measurements tommorow, then I will go back to do some work instead answering unlimited questions, this will never end.
I understand that people needs every detail but they are many and I am only one.
Best regards,
Romero
...I would do all this measurements tommorow, then I will go back to do some work instead answering unlimited questions, this will never end.
I understand that people needs every detail but they are many and I am only one.
Hi All,
I just compiled Version 1.1 of the PDF file describing the RomeroUK selfrunning device
in detail.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=471
Enjoy !
Regards, Stefan.
Below is a picture with the scope connected at the AC point before bridge.
Answer: I run out of neo magnets. I am sure that more magnets will increase the output. I have ordered more togheter with the magnets for the new setup.
@toranarod, how much will they cost you?
Several of our guru's have mentioned using Schottky diodes. I think that's an excellent idea and I can't see how it would effect anything in a bad way (99% sure). Can anyone recommend a particular number that would work well in this replication? Most are cheap enough that even using all Schottky's to make FWBR's should not add that much to the cost but what model number might be best here?
I use them on the bridge in my Adams motor the voltage drop is very low. as a full bridge hard to get.Yes I know it's not common in FWBR but very easy to make the FWBR from 4 Schottky's as I know you know that. I just would like to know what model number might be best since I'm thinking of ordering some.
Hi All,
I just compiled Version 1.1 of the PDF file describing the RomeroUK selfrunning device
in detail.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=471
Enjoy !
Regards, Stefan.
Hi folks, so does anyone foresee an issue with using those large ferrite beads i posted a pic of at top of page, thanks. Right now I'm preparing the steel bolt versions, though I doubt it will work well, that's why I'm thinking about the ferrite beads, at $3.15 for 9 is a deal.Just guessing here but it seems they would not have the same flux pattern and probably not as strong as a solid ferrite rod.
peace love light
tyson
I am about to get another rotor manufactured. as you know the cost is in the tooling so I pay for one is expensive.
so i can have more than one made. If any body is interested please say as I will just get them to do a few more. you will get them for the cost of what they cost me. and postage.
this is for a rotor the dimensions are on the drawing
Several of our guru's have mentioned using Schottky diodes. I think that's an excellent idea and I can't see how it would effect anything in a bad way (99% sure). Can anyone recommend a particular number that would work well in this replication? Most are cheap enough that even using all Schottky's to make FWBR's should not add that much to the cost but what model number might be best here?
the gurus appear to have left the building temporarily :)Well actually you are one of the guru's I was hoping might answer so I guess they haven't all left :) Thanks so much for the info!
this is the next highest amperage rating i could find in Farnell at a first pass, above Romero's existing level of current draw:
(SB1240: 12A, 40V rev, 0.45V fwd)
http://uk.farnell.com/semikron/sb1240/diode-schottky-12a-40v-axial/dp/1776353
i would have thought that a 6A (30V rev, 0.45V fwd) rating would be sufficient for a system operating at around 50Watt (motor + load), if you can find some in your usual suppliers
hope this helps
np
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
the gurus appear to have left the building temporarily :)Now that I think about the current rating suggested I'm wondering if you knew I was planning these for each coil (using 4 as FWBR) as the current rating seems higher than what I would have imagined. But I'm mostly guessing and I know you understand this better but my plan for these is not at the output of all coils just for each one. Knowing that RomeroUK's 1N4007's are only rated 1.0 amp does it sound right to need 12 amp? Although I'm not sure what his FWBR's current rating was he paralled these on so .... I'm lost in the Amperage jungle. lol
this is the next highest amperage rating i could find in Farnell at a first pass, above Romero's existing level of current draw:
(SB1240: 12A, 40V rev, 0.45V fwd)
http://uk.farnell.com/semikron/sb1240/diode-schottky-12a-40v-axial/dp/1776353
i would have thought that a 6A (30V rev, 0.45V fwd) rating would be sufficient for a system operating at around 50Watt (motor + load), if you can find some in your usual suppliers
hope this helps
np
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
I don't understand why people are finding difficult to understand the type of wire I used.
I posted the link to my source of wires many times before.
Below is the source I bought the wire from, and the reference too:
http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/st_wire.html
7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu = 0.875mm
Ref: ST01250007-500
in the meantime i'll try the steel bolt version.
Now that I think about the current rating suggested I'm wondering if you knew I was planning these for each coil (using 4 as FWBR) as the current rating seems higher than what I would have imagined. But I'm mostly guessing and I know you understand this better but my plan for these is not at the output of all coils just for each one. Knowing that RomeroUK's 1N4007's are only rated 1.0 amp does it sound right to need 12 amp? Although I'm not sure what his FWBR's current rating was he paralled these on so .... I'm lost in the Amperage jungle. lol
Now that I think about the current rating suggested I'm wondering if you knew I was planning these for each coil (using 4 as FWBR) as the current rating seems higher than what I would have imagined.
[...]
Hi Romero.
I've noticed from the schematic of your circuit that you are not directly taking advantage
of the collapsing magnetic field of your drive coils when thay are in off mode.
Now there may be a good reason for this, as the introduction of feedback diodes to collect power
from the drive coils during the collapsing field event, may significantly alter the tuning of the machine. ??
But, then again, maybe you haven't tried this ??
If you have'nt already tried this, then perhaps you'd like to.
If your current operating duty cycle (on time) is lower than 30 %, then there is a very high probability that adding feedback diodes and a battery to collect the CEMF may also result in an increase in total motor torque - free of charge. This in turn may increase your total output from the gen coils?
It's an easy experiment for you to try, as it requires no tricky changes to any aspect of your current build.
Just a couple of diodes and a battery hooked up the way I've shown in a modified version of your schematic attached below ..... Perhaps you've already tried this.?
I am very curious to know how this slight addition will affect your setup. Thanks in advance if
you choose to experiment and report on the result. Understanding, if not.
Cheers from Hoptoad ..... KneeDeep
I believe someone said they were having trouble finding the DC-DC converter. this one is 3 amp and while it has the name 'Vanson' it looks the same and is on sale from Maplin for Euro buyers: Universal 3A DC Power Supply Was £21.99 Save £9.00 only £12.99
On promotion until 17/05/2011 here:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/universal-3a-dc-power-supply-228639
Hi Romero.
I've noticed from the schematic of your circuit that you are not directly taking advantage of the collapsing magnetic field of your drive coils when thay are in off mode.
[...]
I am very curious to know how this slight addition will affect your setup. Thanks in advance if you choose to experiment and report on the result.
Understanding, if not.
Cheers from Hoptoad ..... KneeDeep
Either you are replicating OR you are up-scaling and using bigger better coils and magnets. In which case get the best Schottky diodes you can afford. Excess amps now wont go a miss later. With 10A diodes in a bridge you got like an easy 50w per coil with 10 very large generator coils collectively 500w system.
Is this what you are building? :)
Also one other point. Once you built this some of you will want to use coil shorting to give an extreme boost of power and volts. You get 300-400v when the coil is shorted. If you plan on doing this you need like 500v diodes. At 350v and 0.5 amp you now have 175 watt per coil = 1.7Kw system. No its not too far fetched the wind power guys make these muller style systems at that power rating.
while we are on the subject of coils
I have a come up with this. here is a 15 mm litz wire coil on a ferrite former.
what is the inductance of the coils in RomeroUK motor? any body have even a close idea?
This website has a few options:
http://www.voltcraft.nl/notebook-netvoedingen#auto (http://www.voltcraft.nl/notebook-netvoedingen#auto)
He said he is not answering any more questions that already been answered. The only new questions is the inductance value and the resistance to be answered later when he gets time. Everything else is in the thread.
Guys you must realise no one is going to get the same bits all over the world. Just build it with what you have available its no different to making a joule thief and everyone of those is different and most of them work. Everyone is going to wind coils a bit different with different cores. So long as the re-gauging back end neo is carefully tuned it should work.
I have a come up with this. here is a 15 mm litz wire coil on a ferrite former.
Ferrite discs on both sides of the former will act as shields to external magnetic fields parallel to axis.Hi there is nice pictures!
Hi there is nice pictures!
What computer program you are used to get it?
Ferrite discs on both sides of the former will act as shields to external magnetic fields parallel to axis.
snip ... these is no battery in the circuit so why bother charging a battery?
snip...
hi Hoptoad
if Romero hasn't already tried this but doesn't wish to, i'm intending to include feedback of coil-collapse energy in my build attempt, although in my case i'm planning to feedback to the buffer cap - so you should get a report back from someone :)
cheers
np
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
But there is second magnet on the top side, you need to reckon with as well,
about what kind of saturation we are speaking?
I am trying to get a team together to replicate this . One problem with replication can be , do you try to exactly copy the working example or do you use materials to hand to save money . I plan to compromise by building a good shaft and rotor and then experimenting with the other bits .
Here is an important question . What is the orientation of the magnets on top of the coils? If we assume that all rotor magnets are north pole up , are the magnets on top of the coils north pole up or south pole up . Also I need to learn more about Hall effect switches .Obviously , the motor drive coil needs to be energised as a magnet approaches it , and switched off as the magnet comes to its closest point to the coil . I am not quite clear at the moment what causes it to switch off at this point .
Hi all,Thank you RomeoUK,
I see there are questions about the rotor being smaller that the magnets lenght.
I am not at home now to recheck but I know for sure that the rotor was made from 4 0.3mm discs.
During the initial building and testings I have changed the rotor, changed the magnets,... It might be a 1cm + 0.5mm magnets togheter, I remember having that on the rotor at one point, but I am not sure, I must check later.
I had to use the heat gun to take the magnets off, initially I dan them in NSNS configuration.
I had measured the inductance and it is 1.203mH plus and minus, not all coils are exact value but with the magnets on the rotor being close to them that might not be exact.
just trying to get an idea of the wire required to wind the coils. this is based on 7 strands of .2 so .125 will be inside this figure.the winding space is only 1cm. the core left goes thru a hole into the top and bottom supports but not touching the magnets.
Hi all,
I see there are questions about the rotor being smaller that the magnets lenght.
I am not at home now to recheck but I know for sure that the rotor was made from 4 0.3mm discs.
During the initial building and testings I have changed the rotor, changed the magnets,... It might be a 1cm + 0.5mm magnets togheter, I remember having that on the rotor at one point, but I am not sure, I must check later.
I had to use the heat gun to take the magnets off, initially I dan them in NSNS configuration.
I had measured the inductance and it is 1.203mH plus and minus, not all coils are exact value but with the magnets on the rotor being close to them that might not be exact.
just trying to get an idea of the wire required to wind the coils. this is based on 7 strands of .2 so .125 will be inside this figure.Hello,
I got almost 400 emails since yesterday, ...oh my god, what should I do?
Hello,
From photos looks, that high of that coil is about 10mm. It looks that not enough space to place 300 windings?
Hello,As you can see in the pictures the windings are beyond the coil size, I should have used bigger coils but I didn't have, finding coils bobbins is a pain.The coils bobbins are one of the weakest points in my design, now I will have them custom made but I need to get the system togheter do some testings, trying different dimensions for the coils, must try Iron Powder cores then I will decide to the right dimensions.I am thinking to 4 cm/2cm not sure yet for the core size, still testing.
From photos looks, that high of that coil is about 10mm. It looks that not enough space to place 300 windings?
As you can see in the pictures the windings are beyond the coil size, I should have used bigger coils but I didn't have, finding coils bobbins is a pain.The coils bobbins are one of the weakest points in my design, now I will have them custom made but I need to get the system togheter do some testings, trying different dimensions for the coils, must try Iron Powder cores then I will decide to the right dimensions.I am thinking to 4 cm/2cm not sure yet for the core size, still testing.I know you are very much in demand. you have answered lots of questions. Thank you so much I hope you and your family are safe.
Maybe people who knows a good source should place a link for all others to know.
Hi all, I have deleted all my emails by mistake...
sorry!
Hi Romerouk,I hope someone here is going to replicate it soon and have all this questions addressed to him.
Congratulations on this replication + improvement! I want to thank you for sharing so many specific details with all of us. I am looking forward seeing if I can replicate your results. I have all the parts on order now. Regardless of the results I achieve this is going to be a fun build.
I have a little experience with being overloaded with e-mail and the same questions being asked over and over again. My recommendation is to not try and answer each question individually, but let them accumulate and then answer the most asked questions. Of course, if a question is actually crucial to the design then it might need a specific answer. Also, do not worry about proving it is not fake. The only way to prove that it’s real is for us to all replicate the device.
Best regards
Stefan,
There seems to be a problem here.
I am logged in and in spite of that when I click on the link it presents me with a login dialogue box.
You are not allowed to view the Downloads
Please login below or register an account ::)
Thanks Stefan! That will help a lot of people. I know this thing about the Litz wire keeps coming up so I really really hate to ask this. Not being in the U.K. I would not want to buy from Romero's source so I was looking at other places BUT I keep seeing that diagram someone uploaded and it's in your PDF compilation of the 7 x 0.125 mm wire. Here is the problem and to me it looks like a typo. Seven 0.125 mm wires in a bundle as shown in that diagram would have an overall diameter of 0.375 mm but the diagram shows an overall of 0.875 mm. A 3 and 8 look a lot alike at a glance so I'm fairly sure that what you have there as 0.875 mm should actually be 0.375 mm overall diameter which for U.S. people is about 27 or 26 guage wire. Otherwise we are looking at about 19 or 20 guage wire which is a big difference in size. I'm fairly sure at this point it should be the 0.375mm or about 26 guage for U.S. builders.
the gurus appear to have left the building temporarily :)
this is the next highest amperage rating i could find in Farnell at a first pass, above Romero's existing level of current draw:
(SB1240: 12A, 40V rev, 0.45V fwd)
http://uk.farnell.com/semikron/sb1240/diode-schottky-12a-40v-axial/dp/1776353
i would have thought that a 6A (30V rev, 0.45V fwd) rating would be sufficient for a system operating at around 50Watt (motor + load), if you can find some in your usual suppliers
hope this helps
np
also look in your old or scrap PC-Power-Supplies.I have lots of them, a big box full of S30D45CS ; SBL1640CT; STPS3045CW; STPR1620CT,SB3045ST; S20C10CC,....
30 amp and
2way 50Amp (100) Amp
devices inside
To-220 and TO216 = To-3P
cost (mostly) nothing
GP
[...]
S30D45CS ; SBL1640CT;.....[etc]
I have tested those and performance was lower than existing ones 1n4001. [...]
Maybe someone can explain and help me decide what to use in the next setup.
Hi all, I have deleted all my emails by mistake...
sorry!
hi RomeroI have tested them separate, before having this messy diodes on top of the bridge recifier.
when you tested these other diodes and found they weren't as good as 1N4001, did you test them in parallel to the FWBR, or just 4 separate of these diodes (making a FWBR at each coil)?
thanks
np
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
I was able to get amorphous alloys, But also in accordance with the requirements and the size of my production, If I use it to make the coil core, Will get better effect?
I have tested them separate, before having this messy diodes on top of the bridge recifier.
The test was done for a single coil pair, not all togheter.
I have lots of them, a big box full of S30D45CS ; SBL1640CT; STPS3045CW; STPR1620CT,SB3045ST; S20C10CC,....@romerouk
I have tested those and performance was lower than existing ones 1n4001. Maybe they do work good but at higher frequency BUT not in my current setup.
Maybe someone can explain and help me decide what to use in the next setup.
Should be superior to ferrite, for example you can make much more narrow gaps w/o saturating cores => more output. If it works at all :DI found this supplier:
From where did you get the stuff?
This might be helpfull for those who cannot find the specified DC/DC supply.
Rhino 3000mA DC/DC Car Adapter: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rhino-3000mA-DC-DC-Car-Adapter/16318456?findingMethod=rr
@ Hartiberlin. Anything is worth a try but perhaps you would have problems . As the number of magnets is different to the number of coils , the coils would be out of phase with each other .Some would be "pushing" while some were "pulling" if you understand what i mean . That is my opinion .
I found this supplier:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/443365023/power_amorphous_cores.html
@Collapsing field .That was a very interesting and relevant simulation . Now can you [or anyone] answer this question . What would ne the effect if the ferrite core was lengthened by [a] 25% and 100% . the reason I ask is that i am trying to find out if the length of the core is critical . The main reason is that some people are anxious to work with materials they have easily available .
@all. I previously asked Romero if he had tried stationary magnets on the coils down below [lower deck] He is likely under too much pressure to answer me . HE MUST HAVE TRIED THIS , AS OTHERWISE , THE LOWER COILS COULD BE DOING LITTLE EXCEPT WASTE ENERGY . Has he discussed this with anyone else please ?
@all. I previously asked Romero if he had tried stationary magnets on the coils down below [lower deck] He is likely under too much pressure to answer me
[...]
hi again
yes, at 09:38m into the pre-self-running video you can clearly see mags on the lower deck in a low view thro' the side of the rig
hope this helps
np
[EDIT ** apologies for the duplicated answer, Ben - our posts clashed ** ]
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
@all. I previously asked Romero if he had tried stationary magnets on the coils down below [lower deck] He is likely under too much pressure to answer me . HE MUST HAVE TRIED THIS , AS OTHERWISE , THE LOWER COILS COULD BE DOING LITTLE EXCEPT WASTE ENERGY . Has he discussed this with anyone else please ?
Hi NP,
No problem, happened to me too. I seemed to have missed where Romoro gave the inductance. Has he ever said the resistance? I'm assuming about 6 ohms per coil based on current in motor side of the coils X 2 in series.
Ben K4ZEP
I hope someone here is going to replicate it soon and have all this questions addressed to him.
To all:
Don't ask me to do more videos, and measure every inch of it, this is taking all my time, instead of working and doing something productive.
I know skycollection - jorge sent me an email earlier but was deleted.
If you see this message please send it again, I would answer to you.
Best regards,
Romero
@all. I previously asked Romero if he had tried stationary magnets on the coils down below [lower deck] He is likely under too much pressure to answer me . HE MUST HAVE TRIED THIS , AS OTHERWISE , THE LOWER COILS COULD BE DOING LITTLE EXCEPT WASTE ENERGY . Has he discussed this with anyone else please ?
Well, maybe it is better to put all outputs coils then in series
for higher voltage outputs and only have a normal
silicon diode bridge rectifier then at the end.
Then you could also use a DC to DC converter with high efficiency to transform
the violtage down again.
This way you will only loose power in the ONE bridge rectifier and not
in all rectifiers... This could also save a lot of wasted power in the circuit
and it is cheaper as you don´t need so many rectifiers....
If you make the coils much bigger also a higher current should be possible at
the higher series voltage.
Regards, Stefan.
I cannot find reference to the gap between the magnets and the coils?
Was thinking a little about the drive circuit. Don't know for sure, but this design may give a maximum theoretical output of 200%. I saw some suggestion to that effect in some of Muller's stuff, and that appears to be where RomeroUK is once losses are accounted for. In order to get the output power levels to meaningful levels then, the drive levels are going to have to be raised as the output load is increased. Probably only two good ways to do that: 1) increase drive voltage, and/or 2) increase drive pulse width.
This looks like a super candidate for a micro-controller, which might also simplify the drive pulse management. Rather than hall effect sensors and trigger magnets, it might make sense to move to an encoder and quadrature input. With sufficient encoder resolution, you could very accurately control drive pulses to increase power. Could also use the micro to control supply voltage, allowing the supply voltage to increase when you needed more output.
Yeah, that's raising the level of difficultly to a 9.9...but I am licking my chops to jump into that. :D
I developed this micro controller for my pulse motors and I am going to use it for this one too.
PIC? That should do nicely.
By bringing the Hall effect sensor into a discrete input on the PIC, you can use it as a simple reference and synthesize the actual drive pulses anywhere you want to put them. That should give you a big advantage when tuning.
I am about to get another rotor manufactured. as you know the cost is in the tooling so I pay for one is expensive.
so i can have more than one made. If any body is interested please say as I will just get them to do a few more. you will get them for the cost of what they cost me. and postage.
this is for a rotor the dimensions are on the drawing
Hi all,
i see that many questions are about the resistance of the coil.
I don't have the generator at home but as I remember I maeasured it few day ago it was arround 1.7-2 ohms.I have removed one of the pair coils and replaced with a larger one and that has improved the system.
Hi all,
i see that many questions are about the resistance of the coil.
I don't have the generator at home but as I remember I maeasured it few day ago it was arround 1.7-2 ohms.I have removed one of the pair coils and replaced with a larger one and that has improved the system.
toranarod
how much are these rotors going to cost?
let me know when you find out
Kevin
Here are some calculators for litz wires:
http://www.elektrisola.com/litz-wire/technical-data/formulas.html (http://www.elektrisola.com/litz-wire/technical-data/formulas.html)
http://www.hmwire.com/calculations.html (http://www.hmwire.com/calculations.html)
http://www.litz-wire.com/wirediminsions.html (http://www.litz-wire.com/wirediminsions.html)
and coils:
http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Coil-Physical-Properties-Calculator.phtml (http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Coil-Physical-Properties-Calculator.phtml)
keep going, please don’t stop, the price of gas is going up another 6 cents as of midnight, the reason ? None, as usually.replaced the core with 10mm but just for one set of coils.
“I have removed one of the pair coils and replaced with a larger one and that has improved the system.â€
Did you also substitute the 6mm core with a larger one?
Regards
Mike
@Bolt
Do you or anybody else here have a sense of what the simple description of the actual OU operation is? RomeroUK's system doesn't appear to be resonant, so this apparently isn't a standing wave phenomenon. It appears that the mechanical input is about half of what the electrical output is. So the RV motor doesn't have to be OU in itself, just very efficient to drive the Muller configuration. But what in the Muller configuration is OU exactly?
The question is significant in that if we can understand where the conventional math is not correctly modeling reality, we can predictably design these things, rather than experimenting blindly. That will be required to scale this up to useful levels.
Great Work Romero!
IT WORKS!!!!! REPLICATION SUCCES!!!!!!!! :o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNcZAZBC7cs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNcZAZBC7cs)
So please answer my previous question and show that this is one is not another fake setup...please think about your questions before you ask them.
Hi there, this is my first post on this site and I want to suggest a better schematic for romerouk muller dynamo driving coils.
Hi overunityguide, you said,please think about your questions before you ask them.
Can anyone in this universe show or prove that something is not real.
For example, 'I did not wash the dishes'. It is impossible to prove that you didn't do something, such as wash the dishes.
It is only possible to prove or show that the dishes were washed, just as it is only possible to show or prove that the romerouk's device works.
Nobody in this universe can ever prove something does not work as that is contradictory and self defeating from the start.
In other words you ask a question that can never be answered.
A more fruitful question would be, how does it work.
peace love light
tyson
...
the inventor cannot 'believe' for somebody else - each person has to 'believe' for themselves
when enough people of integrity & understanding 'believe' THEN science can be expanded to include the new knowledge
...
I love what you have said! There is so much truth in it.
( i know every second topic is about vacum and null point energy, but there is no vacum here to create null-point energy).
5.1 defame, abuse, harass, stalk, threaten or otherwise violate the rights of other users or any third parties;
@nul-points thanks for showing everyones opinion. I tried to NOT divert the discussion in the wrong way. That is why i tried to write in bold my point. I'm trying to extract this new theory you are talking about, the ambiant energy that is absorbed. I could not find any post about speculations in what form does this ambiant energy comes from ( i know every second topic is about vacum and null point energy, but there is no vacum here to create null-point energy). Ofc as this theory is intended to be new, i do not expect that most speculation would even be close to the real reason. Things need to start at some point.
I could use your same speach for the sake of the development of the theoretical part. This even misunderstood theoretical part might help people improve their practical devices at some point.
@nul-points,if this problem and it is a big problem, of a hidden power
source then its a 50/50 chance of doing a successfull replication.
If theres a hidden power source you will never replicate it.And I understand that
Romerouk has a life and may not want to make any more video's,however he has the
skill level to pull off a fraud
easily,remember the mylow motor fraud and I'm weary of something like that so are a lot of people.
If you believe,without resolving the issue of a hidden power source your a fool.
Like people that believe Steve mark of the tpu fame can't lie there fools too.
Where is your working replication!!, fool, I bet theres none,arm chair mechanic. :o
@nul-points
Where is your working replication!!, fool, I bet theres none,arm chair mechanic. :o
@bolt: are you sure it would work without the pulses? I have my doubts, because what if the pulses caused by the hall sensors and therefore the manipulated polarity of the ferrite cores influence each one of the passing rotor magnets? Then the pulsing would be crucial to the system and it wouldn't be only the "driving" purpose. In that case a "replication" with a motor at the rotor axis instead of the driving coils wouldn't succeed.
To all sceptics and naysayers .This thread is for replicators . There is another thread for discussion of the Muller dynamo .Why not go there .If you disbelieve in this technology , just leave us alone .|You may feel that we are wasting time and money . It is ours to waste . There are worse hobbbies we could have , like beating up old ladies , or collecting child pornography .
Romero, define "Tuning" in stages.
[...]
Please explain your description of Tuning if possible in general terms from start to finish. Please!
Ben K4ZEP
hi Ben
we've scavenged this whole thread for Romero's build tips and they're collected in a few separate pages at our blog, if that's any help
the section on testing is at:
http://mullerlite.blogspot.com/p/romerouk-testing-tips.html (http://mullerlite.blogspot.com/p/romerouk-testing-tips.html)
apologies that they're just raw quotes at the moment - may be a bit of overlap in some of his statements
hope this helps!
np
(armchair mechanic) ;)
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
@ nul-points,so are you romerouk playing games as happens in here,
you seem to act like you speak for him or are him
[...]
[...]
There are no working replications of any alleged over unity devices
[...]
[...]
From time to time I investigate other devices
[...]
Thanks a lot NP,
[...]
I was hoping just for a bit more from the horses mouth, but I think
that is pretty good
[...]
Ben K4ZEP
I have received some parts for the new build.What are those black items?
@Romerouk,your build is unusual,don't take this in a wrong way,the big cap could hide a battery or a series of batteries could you replace this with much smaller capacitors in parallel to eliminate this possibility and make another video.This issue willI will do one more video without the big capacitor, I will change it with smaller ones in or even one small .I need to check to see what is the minimum I can have and still have it working ok.
come up if it hasn't already,thanks
@nul-points
[...]
I'm trying to extract this new theory you are talking about, the ambiant energy that is absorbed. I could not find any post about speculations in what form does this ambiant energy comes from ( i know every second topic is about vacum and null point energy, but there is no vacum here to create null-point energy). Ofc as this theory is intended to be new, i do not expect that most speculation would even be close to the real reason. Things need to start at some point.
[...]
[...]
There are invisible batteries invented but only I have access to them :)
[...]
@powerunlimitednul-points, I haven't read past your post at the moment but I TOTALLY AGREE 100% !!!!!!!!!!!! It seems this has brought a lot of low post count and newbies out of the woodwork. I won't speculate on their motives but only ask them to allow the serious research to continue without diverting Romerouk and others by tons of requests that are irrelevant to people here doing real work.
@Aedini
@Overunityguide
...and anyone else who might be even thinking about making the same requests...
ok, let's get this straight guys
Romero has done ALL he needs to do at this point (much more in fact)
he's shown other people in forums like this, who have some understanding of the possibilities and behaviour of the various parts of his device (ie. people who are reasonably 'skilled in the art'), just one example of how to use magnets, coils, rotation and inertia to convert ambient energy into useful work
the 'unusual' thing at the moment (because this is NEW, as far as conventional science is concerned) is that he has made an ELECTRICAL system which only needs 12 Watts to convert 24W from the environment - ie., it has a CoP of 2
BUT - in general, a system which uses X Watts to convert >X W from the environment is NOT NEW - heat pumps regularly operate with CoP > 3
so - the way ahead is NOT to have Romero spend all his time making more and more complicated videos - you see, lots of small capacitors on a video are not better than one big capacitor because there MIGHT be lots of small batteries in them, etc - there is always ONE more objection
no, HERE is the way that science has progressed: --> not just by making a believable video (although the videos that Romero has made ARE helpful to those who will follow on) - no, science progresses by OTHER people taking the necessary details and REPLICATING it for themselves
the inventor cannot 'believe' for somebody else - each person has to 'believe' for themselves
when enough people of integrity & understanding 'believe' THEN science can be expanded to include the new knowledge
from what i've seen from the evidence which Romero has shown about this device - and from the evidence of other things he has made - and the obvious love he has for doing this work - and for the fact that Bill Muller and several other people have ALL shown the same achievement and the same integrity - i BELIEVE that what we've been shown here is all true
and now it is the job of people who have the same approach as Romero to duplicate what he has done and tell the people - who are sitting on their @rses in ivory towers, telling everybody that this is NOT POSSIBLE - to stop wasting our money spending billions of dollars/pounds/euros etc, just to discover 'how many angels can dance on the tip of a needle'
THEY are getting paid for US to do THEIR work!
if you didn't bother trying to read & think about everything i just said above, then the short answer is:
Romero will NOT be making any more videos JUST TO DISPROVE A FAKE
if you can't be bothered - or don't have the skills or resources - to make a replication attempt, then you will just have to be patient and watch as many others repeat what Romero has done
(while you're waiting, why not read carefully through the earlier 576 posts, like most of the rest of us have done, and watch Romero's 3 'Muller Dynamo' videos to get at least some idea of his integrity, achievement and dedication - not to mention the personal pressures on his family and on him)
the 'writing is on the wall' for the 2nd so-called Law of Thermodynamics
and was it our fantastically clever and knowledgeable 'scientists' who discovered this for humanity and opened the door to a new era of energy independence?
no, it was a few members of the public working on their kitchen and garden tables
SHAME on the scientific community!
...sorry, did someone mention something about Romero making some MORE videos? ;)
have a nice day
np
[Edited - to add and clarify the rant a bit :)]
[2nd Edit to remove Tudi from the reply list, with apologies]
http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)
I just finished making my rotor. I easily made it using smooth-on products. I have been using their stuff for years in my projects. You all may want to check them out. I have nothing to do with the company so this is not spam.Interesting product. Can you say about how much it cost to make the rotor for example? Once it is dry does it tend to have a surface prone to static electricity like acrylic? I'm still thinking the acrylic and similar plastics may play a role in how this works.
http://www.smooth-on.com/
Here is a video showing the process: http://www.smooth-on.com/video_play.php?video_id=iu7vpoIolJ8&autoplay=1
Has anyone found a good U.S. source or maybe even China source for the size Litz wire Romero is using? My experience ordering from U.K. is it takes longer than even China and is much more expensive than anywhere (especially with the dollar low now vs. Euro).
Thanks lasersaber! on both items. I had not been aware of the smooth-on products. Looks like it could be really useful for a number of projects but I think I'll wait to hear how yours goes with this. I know you are one of the really good builders and I have confidence you can get this replicated with OU assuming the acrylic is not part of the OU formula. Best of luck!
I have ordered some from here: http://www.surplussales.com/wire-cable/LitzWire.html I was going to wait and see what it looked like in person before I posted anything about it. I spent $30.00 for two pounds.
I have received some parts for the new build.
Why is nobody thinking I have drilled the metal rods and filled them up with batteries?That will do I think... :)Best to just ignore people like that at this point. At least don't waste a lot of time on trying to prove anything to them. A long time ago I came to the conclusion there are two types of people in this world: the believers and the skeptics. It's almost impossible to convince a skeptic to be a believer. So when I know I have something good to share I try to find out first which type I'm talking to and won't waste time on skeptics. With as many of the top builders that I've seen in this thread I'm sure there will be successful replications within a month or so. So don't sweat the skeptics and trolls. Anyone with a clue about human nature can see you are an honest builder with only good intentions and real OU.
I made a mistake in doing the last video. I should I left it on the floor first, do a video to my hands, then lift it up.
I was about to do it hanging with a cotton string but people suggested already that I can have wires going along with the string,.... this never ends, same like in the SM TPU, must be some batteries there, how can we get that power otherwise.
No like rain cats and dogs there is coming differnent OUs :o
Look at Hoppy´s TPU Replication http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=10710.msg285458#new :o
But OK, when Romero´s - Muller dynamo really works, then why to use rotor with magnets at all ???
Just take two ferros core coils, set it up exact like one Romero´s unit with two coils and instead of moving magnet just use third ferros coil between these two coils - but this third is pulse driven,
NS->COIL->pulse-driven-coil->COIL->SN
Yes, this is very similar to well known units from other threads, but you must have all the same air gaps like Romero and top and bottom magnets - you must replicate all this like opened magnetic circuit, like Romero did.
Benefit of this experiment is you do not need so much different part. At that you will get solid state OU (if at all)
If it works - then you can be sure that Romero´s device works as well,
If it does not work - then ... >:( ... oh dear 8)
Why I do not try myself?
Because I have tried looooong time ago - no way ;)
I just looked Romero´s video and wonder why he is holding hes machine by hand, why not just by string or something like that?
What is behind holding hand, we do not see. Why there are so much wires? Like always - lot of wires, shabby imaging, failure cameraman ...
Was no time to make order, to short all wires for correct length? .... Come on, guys ;)
He did what he did --- few days like shooting star, but now is coming a thinking time, to think about results and ... about reputation :(
But anyway I wish good success,
cheers,
herbert
cheer
@ e2matrix
I will try arcylic as well if this first rotor fails to work. I do not give up easly on anything.
Best to just ignore people like that at this point. At least don't waste a lot of time on trying to prove anything to them. A long time ago I came to the conclusion there are two types of people in this world: the believers and the sceptics. It's almost impossible to convince a sceptic to be a believer. So when I know I have something good to share I try to find out first which type I'm talking to and won't waste time on skeptics. With as many of the top builders that I've seen in this thread I'm sure there will be successful replications within a month or so. So don't sweat the skeptics and trolls. Anyone with a clue about human nature can see you are an honest builder with only good intentions and real OU.
I thought by now someone should have banned @powerunlimited . He is definitely with the Oil companies. He has said enough to show that he is biased.
Youtube account gone too.
............ History won't be repeating
itself any time soon.
:S:MarkSCoffman
His videos are now off youtube.This is in some case is good, that means that this device is overunity. I think in this forum there are some "agents" that read and wait to see some overunity and after that you see what happen.
Looks like he's online on yahoo IM:
http://webmessenger.yahoo.com/?im=rfisca
Well,
I think it all got over his head..
I still think from all the communications we had with him
and his history of other youtube projects
with teh coil shortening success, etc,
that it was realk and no fake.
He might have just fallen for an offer he received.
He told me 2 days ago, that he had at least 2 serious offers
worth of millions US$...and also that he has his wife on his back and
that she did not want him to release it all for free...
So he probably pulled the plug and
removed his youtube channel now.
Now I am glad he gave me the permission to copy his videos
to my youtube channeel:
http://www.youtube.com/overunitydotcom#g/u
There they still are there.
So I would advise to the members who already ordered the parts to
keep at it and try to replicate it and post as much infos as you can including
videos and scope shots.
Many thanks in advance.
Regards, Stefan.
Which raises a question; if Romero's device was real, and he accepted a very lucrative offer, what happens if someone else achieves the same success with the device?
I will do one more video without the big capacitor, I will change it with smaller ones in or even one small .I need to check to see what is the minimum I can have and still have it working ok.
I have no access to the generator today, I dont have it at home but I will try for tomorow.
I will try to open the dc/dc converter and leave it without the plastic case.
There are invisible batteries invented but only I have access to them :)
I hope this will end after that.
I think that its much easier to consider it fake than trying to do one yourself.
I am not addressing this to you but to all who thinks like that.
People having low financial resources should wait for others to replicate then decide if it is worth doing it or not.It is not cheap to build it, the new build will cost me more than £1000. Only the coils is going to cost £30 each, custom made with self-bonding wire.
sucks
I don't believe it, otherwise you wouldn't buy components for a new build.
Don't stop replicating yet.
@taranarod . Did you get around to weighing the wire on one coil pleaseI will do this and post the value today will other details
It was fake all along but I did not want to spoil your excitement. Few would have heard me anyway.
Look again at the first “OU video†(lol!) and by the end of it ask yourself why is the power led (DC-DC converter) still on after he turns the switch off. Huh?!
Moreover, why is the same led flashing in sync with the RPM of the rotor when it should be disconnected from stator coils?!!!
Or to put it simpler…What does he switches off then if not the DC converter?!!!
Hint: the other power source? 15V, 1-2A, 2 thin wires… Go figure!
Hello,
which device do you use for winding your coils?
Has anyone bought this one :
http://perfectgoodhelper.com/goods.php?id=1074
I have bought I-cores , the type used like in transformers and planed to build a adams motor with the following design :
http://motoradams.blogspot.com/
1,76 Watts in / 3,44 Watts out. Or maybe this Muller Design in a smaller scale.
Okay, I analyzed the first Video of him:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KVU3ZM14rw
again.
I have followed all cables in single frame mode with
a local flash player on my PC with the HD version of
the movie and this machine is in my opinion for real.
He has all bridge rectifiers in parallel and at the switch, where
he switches on the bulb lamp, he just puts the 12 Volts
DC from all the parallel rectifier outputs onto the single red wire.
From there it goes first into the analog ampmeter and then to the analog voltmeter.
So the ampmeter is before the voltmeter.
From the voltmeter only the one yello cable goes to the bulb and at the bulb
the second yellow cable goes away to a "Y" connection where it meets the
black cable going to the analog voltmeter and the scond black cable going
up again to the black cable going to the minus pole of ALL
rectifiers.
So this output circuit is for real and it shows 12 Volts at 2 amps= 24 Watts.
Also there is no capacitor and this is probably pulsed DC where every
of the 7 coilpairs gives 2 x 12 Volts sin^2 pulse as shown in the scope shot.
As this is bridge rectified every coilpair gives 2 of these pulses and all
superimpose over time and as the rotor is spinng pretty fast these
analog meters show steady averaged values.
Also when he starts the device you can see for a blink of a second, that
the digital ampmeter shows 2.60 amps input current.
That is, when all 2 series coilpairs conduct from the 12.64 Volts battery voltage.
So one driver coilpair then has 2.6 / 2 = 1.3 amps running through the 2 series coils.
So
12.64 Volts / 1.3 amps= 9.72 Ohm for 2 coils in series.
So every single coil has about 4.86 Ohms of DC resistance.
I guess this could be for real, if you take the diameter of the 7 wires in parallel
and the 300 turns.
So this video is in my eyes, for real.
Also all his prior videos and the fact that he is also working on the
Magnacoster device also on his table are really very convincing,
that he did not do any fake...
Regards, Stefan.
The switch only controlled the drive coils. The stator coils are still happily converting the kinetic energy of the rotor into plenty enough energy to keep the DC to DC happy with no load. No magic there.
RomeroUK doesn't remotely seem like the scammer type to me. Something happened...either good or bad...and he bailed. Simple. The information required the replicate the device is here. Follow through.
The Dragone paper referenced earlier does provide a very interesting glimpse into how a coil and PM can interact to produce significant OU, and could easily explain this device, Magnacoaster, and a host of other devices.
It takes faith to see what others cannot and strength to follow that to reality. Any blind weakling can be a snarking skeptic. It takes a special person to defy them.
Well,
I think it all got over his head..
I still think from all the communications we had with him
and his history of other youtube projects
with the coil shortening success, etc,
that it was real and no fake.
He might have just fallen for an offer he received.
He told me 2 days ago, that he had at least 2 serious offers
worth of millions of US$...and also that he has his wife on his back and
that she did not want him to release it all for free...
So he probably pulled the plug and
removed his youtube channel now when he accepted an offer from
one of the companies...
Now I am glad he gave me the permission to copy his videos
to my youtube channeel:
http://www.youtube.com/overunitydotcom#g/u
There they still are there.
So I would advise to the members who already ordered the parts to
keep at it and try to replicate it and post as much infos as you can including
videos and scope shots.
Many thanks in advance.
Regards, Stefan.
It was fake all along but I did not want to spoil your excitement. Few would have heard me anyway.
Look again at the first “OU video†(lol!) and by the end of it ask yourself why is the power led (DC-DC converter) still on after he turns the switch off. Huh?!
Moreover, why is the same led flashing in sync with the RPM of the rotor when it should be disconnected from stator coils?!!!
Or to put it simpler…What does he switches off then if not the DC converter?!!!
Hint: the other power source? 15V, 1-2A, 2 thin wires… Go figure!
I know, I’m MIB, oil-man, skeptic and a few dozen more…
Before leaving, greetings to the old friends still remembering me.
See you on the next one, folks!
No problem. I ordered about $500 or more worthy of materials, so I guess I will build it and share the failures or may the successes.
Only one thing was very strange about the second "self-running video" where when he connects the second cable to the positive of the battery, where the other one was already there, and he removes both at the same time and shows the machine running in self-mode without the battery.
One can noticed that the second cable IS connected to the negative of the battery too. At 12 volts 7 amp battery it would easily melt that cable for the 3 seconds he was holding it on his hand. I have to revisit that video again, I could be wrong, but It looked like it was a dead short and not heating or burning his hands.
Fausto.
Best to just ignore people like that at this point...
Anyone with a clue about human nature can see you are an honest builder with only good intentions and real OU.
No problem. I ordered about $500 or more worthy of materials, so I guess I will build it and share the failures or may the successes.
Only one thing was very strange about the second "self-running video" where when he connects the second cable to the positive of the battery, where the other one was already there, and he removes both at the same time and shows the machine running in self-mode without the battery.
One can noticed that the second cable IS connected to the negative of the battery too. At 12 volts 7 amp battery it would easily melt that cable for the 3 seconds he was holding it on his hand. I have to revisit that video again, I could be wrong, but It looked like it was a dead short and not heating or burning his hands.
Fausto.
Hi Stefan.
any chance of a link to that final schematic, the last one I got was posted by Groundloop, maybe it is still the up-to-date one.
Also maybe you could post it on the home page for all to see, without having to trawl through the whole thread.
Just get the version 1.1 of my PDF file here:
http://www.multiupload.com/TQ5UZT4YXU
There it is all in there.
Regards, Stefan.
Yeah, very grievous, brings to tears ... but why these rich millionaires want to give big money to Romero but never gave any cent to Muller and Bedini ???
::)
cheers,
khabe
ROMERO ROMERO ROMERO!!!! BUDDY ARE YOU SERIOUS YOU HAVE PERPETRATED A FRAUD?If it was fraud all he needed to say was I am sorry I made a mistake in connection or reading(anybody can make mistake) NOT take down his youtube account; take down his forum he has being building for years and tell us the world would remain the same.
People let this be a big lesson if you ever achieve overunity make dam sure you have every detail down to the type of epoxy you used and how much and every measurement!
And if you can afford the time even share a link on where you purchased every part from.
It will save you much headache then you drop this in there lap it will be purchased and built lickity split.
There will be no questions just replication make it with everything purchase ready! So its just a matter of slapping it together if you do not do this it will give people time to stop affording you the short window of belief that you have!
I am a little at fault for the whole deal and I do apologize to all of you out there who have stuff on the way... But I knew the questions would start pouring in so I tried to get them out of the way right away to prove there are no batteries or trickery...
Aside from all of this if he did pop open the DC converter it would likely run cooler and have a slightly better efficiency so why he was so against this is beyond me????
And as far as the cap goes if you visit www.badcaps.net you will find out that even caps were being pirated back in the days people were using cheap caps and putting them inside caps with a good name and the wrong specifications this is how some of the orientals got rid of all there bad capacitor stock.
Would you not want to verify this is not the case with the capacitor you are using????
Finally you just built an overunity device would you not want to go out of your way to prove that it is in fact overunity???
If he was really christian I would say that he is lacking of some of the morals of a christian the lord was very forgiving according to the bible and he sacrificed so much even his life so he could die for the sins of man and yet this guy cannot forgive a simple question or sacrifice ten more minutes to make a video with the capacitor being torn apart after the running of the device I do not understand?
Anyhow he can leave and give up that is his choice just remember when it comes time for judgement and you are waiting at the pearly gates and you did not make just a little more sacrifice to possibly save the billions of people headed for starvation and homelessness around the globe if your name is not on the list you will know why. There is a reason you were given this gift while the millions of others may have missed it... At the end it is all about what you have done to make the world a better more fair and equal place it aint about how many cars you had or whatever you don't take them with you and that is what a true christian believes no matter what!
Finally as far as the guy being rich if we were able to replicate this thing he would have received many more millions in donations then he ever would have gotten from some oil company or the DOE plus he would also go on to live for ever even after he was dead and gone.
Just some things I believe he should really consider if it is real cause if I were him I know it would be on my mind.
Hi folks, As the old saying goes, 'you can't burn the candle at both ends' and expect to be free, money is all illusion, as is much else.
Here is what I have so far, using 5/16" diameter steel bolts, for now, though ferrite cores can be easily be attached to this setup later.
The reed switch is only temporary, to see how the motor function works and I'm waiting for glue to dry on other 5 coils, polyurethane glue takes awhile to dry.
peace love light
tyson
The reality is thst no compsny would be offering millions of dollars on an open source project as their only protection is IP. Given his full dislosure and details it would be impossible to get one through now without being challenged..and what exactly is the IP. Many other experimentors could lay claims to the different aspects of these deigns.
However removoing all trace of everything was proberbly a request if he did have a real offer..too late many have backed it up.
You should contact the so called companies Stefan to confirm that...i would be very suprised if it was a reputable one as there are many claiming to have millions and they do not.
email me privately if you like or call me and i will tell you if they would be authentic. If not do your own homework.
Is it real or not, I do not know but given the information availabe you would expect one replicator to have success at least. Then what happens then? The replicator might discover further improvements. This is a real pandoras box.
Mark
Hi Mark,
If you get time, check out the first movie. The device starts out at v=12.61 and then firms up at 12.57 volts with current at about .94 amp. When the light is turned on at time 2:53 into the movie, the voltage drops to 12.29 volts (barely seen in the side of the screen) and the amp meter drops also to .92A. Then just after the light is turned off, at time 2:58, the volt meter jumps up and reads 12.48 volts and the amp meter reads .93A. It appears that the light is running right off the battery but the current is not being read through the digital meter. It has been fun to watch though.
Liberty
Aside from all of this if he did pop open the DC converter it would likely run cooler and have a slightly better efficiency so why he was so against this is beyond me????
Sorry folks but if he did take apart the "DC converter", all you'd see is the 9v battery that made his pulse motor go.
Sorry folks but if he did take apart the "DC converter", all you'd see is the 9v battery that made his pulse motor go.Oh man ya'll what about the genie? ???
Key to making this work is absolute essential to use ferrite cores as minimum standard.How can you know this for a fact, though you're probably correct.
Look again.
No, you look again... The black cable is coming form the output of the dc/dc convertor, It contains 2 conductors. the white wire is the positive and the other wire that looks white is silver and it is the bare shielding twisted and connected to the ground side of the battery where it should be. This is not a fake!
John :-*
Look again.
Okay, I analyzed the first Video of him:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KVU3ZM14rw
again.
I have followed all cables in single frame mode with
a local flash player on my PC with the HD version of
the movie and this machine is in my opinion for real.
He has all bridge rectifiers in parallel and at the switch, where
he switches on the bulb lamp, he just puts the 12 Volts
DC from all the parallel rectifier outputs onto the single red wire.
From there it goes first into the analog ampmeter and then to the analog voltmeter.
So the ampmeter is before the voltmeter.
From the voltmeter only the one yello cable goes to the bulb and at the bulb
the second yellow cable goes away to a "Y" connection where it meets the
black cable going to the analog voltmeter and the scond black cable going
up again to the black cable going to the minus pole of ALL
rectifiers.
So this output circuit is for real and it shows 12 Volts at 2 amps= 24 Watts.
Also there is no capacitor and this is probably pulsed DC where every
of the 7 coilpairs gives 2 x 12 Volts sin^2 pulse as shown in the scope shot.
As this is bridge rectified every coilpair gives 2 of these pulses and all
superimpose over time and as the rotor is spinng pretty fast these
analog meters show steady averaged values.
Also when he starts the device you can see for a blink of a second, that
the digital ampmeter shows 2.60 amps input current.
That is, when all 2 series coilpairs conduct from the 12.64 Volts battery voltage.
So one driver coilpair then has 2.6 / 2 = 1.3 amps running through the 2 series coils.
So
12.64 Volts / 1.3 amps= 9.72 Ohm for 2 coils in series.
So every single coil has about 4.86 Ohms of DC resistance.
I guess this could be for real, if you take the diameter of the 7 wires in parallel
and the 300 turns.
So this video is in my eyes, for real.
Also all his prior videos and the fact that he is also working on the
Magnacoster device also on his table are really very convincing,
that he did not do any fake...
Regards, Stefan.
I just watched again and indeed at 2:52 to 2:55 where he connects the red cable, which is ALSO connected to the negative, to the positive of the battery for about 8 seconds (which should definitely melt the cable). See pics.
I don't know what this means. I am not saying it is a fake, actually I think it is for real, but something is wrong here.
Fausto.
I just watched again and indeed at 2:52 to 2:55 where he connects the red cable, which is ALSO connected to the negative, to the positive of the battery for about 8 seconds (which should definitely melt the cable). See pics.
I don't know what this means. I am not saying it is a fake, actually I think it is for real, but something is wrong here.
Fausto.
Hi Fausto,
here is a picture for you to better explain it.
Hope you see it now, that your last posting was wrong...
Yes, now you are right, Fausto.
The left white cable from the black DC2DC converter cable is the positive voltage output of the DC2DC converter
and the right more silvery colored cable is the ground cable of the DC2DC converter output ( minus pole).
Key to making this work is absolute essential to use ferrite cores as minimum standard. BUT its much better to use metglas or other extreme high permeability cores because this is the OU transform component. Expect to spend as much if not more on the cores as the neo magnets as they work in harmony.
Next is minimise all losses. bearings, build quality etc must be precision made. Unless you have several hundred dollars to spend on doing this properly then you are wasting your time and money.
Many people still doubt this device. Clearly never done any homework to see Muller made dozens and dozens of OU self looping generators. He sold quite a few i imagine they are still powering someone's houses today. Many people went to see him and his generators before he died.
I am pretty convinced this is for real too. That was the only thing I could spot looking very closely to the videos that was strange (as I said before).
Everything on the video, the voltage fluctuations, the cables, the way the motor spins and current changes, the voltage variations of the DC and the motor reaction, the non-Lenz effect when the lamp is connected and the speed did not change.
If this was a fake is a dam good fake of tremendous details. Details of the level of one guy that should KNOW how it should behave in those conditions. Which is only possible for people that really experiment with this stuff.
I am glad I am doing the investment on the parts and I tell you they ARE NOT CHEAP at all and I will probably still buy more to make this correct.
I put my money where my mouth is!
Fausto.
Hi Fausto,
here is a picture for you to better explain it.
Hope you see it now, that your last posting was wrong...
Gang, I'll give you my take on it. It is very simple, he started the generator on the battery at around 12.6VDC, the DC/DC converter started running on the 15+DC output of the generator with 12.6 VDC out,give or take to fold back but not connected to start. He then paralleled the output of the DC converter with the battery, then took the battery out of the circuit and it was then running on the converter! Why are all the doubters making it so hard. The differential current between the converter and battery was almost nill as voltage was basically the same and was a simple and nifty way to show how he eliminated the battery!!!!! No more, no less. Lordy, so much BS about nothing.
Now quit BSing and start building! I'm tired of seeing the same thing beat to death again and again and again! What has happened is so un-characteristic of the man that I prefer to think it was the real deal. Everything else is just like the "National Enquirer" IF anyone comes up with something negative, first explain it to their wife or girlfriend, when she agrees, post it! Ha.
So lets build, have fun, and hope someone hits on it! If not, life will go on! I'll post pictures good, bad or ugly in a couple weeks when parts come together! I'm fully convinced that building is not the problem if done with some degree of precision, getting the correct spacing between all the magnets and cores with maximum output, maximum RPM, with minimum input, is where the work will be. Lets see, 18 separate bias magnet adjustments, 16 coil/core to magnet adjustments, two Hall effect sensors to adjust for maximum speed. That should keep even the most avid tinker/builder busy for a few days!!!!!
Ben K4ZEP
I am pretty convinced this is for real too. That was the only thing I could spot looking very closely to the videos that was strange (as I said before).Good deal plengo. I'm glad you see it now. Have you stripped coax cable before? I've done plenty and it was obvious for me and hopefully for others too now.
Everything on the video, the voltage fluctuations, the cables, the way the motor spins and current changes, the voltage variations of the DC and the motor reaction, the non-Lenz effect when the lamp is connected and the speed did not change.
If this was a fake is a dam good fake of tremendous details. Details of the level of one guy that should KNOW how it should behave in those conditions. Which is only possible for people that really experiment with this stuff.
I am glad I am doing the investment on the parts and I tell you they ARE NOT CHEAP at all and I will probably still buy more to make this correct.
I put my money where my mouth is!
Fausto.
Guys,
Just a quick word on rotors. I cut mine out of "cutting board" plastic that can be bought at any restaurant supply house. They are 1/2 inch thick, which is the same thickness as the neos I am using. I drill a 1/2 inch hole in the center on my drill press, so that once it is rough cut on the ban saw, jig saw, or whatever saw I happen to feel like using that day, I can slide it onto the shaft of my bench grinder after the grinding wheel is removed. Then I can spin it up to high rpm's and use any one of a number of word working rasps, files, etc., to smooth it down to its final shape and assure that it is ROUND. Then I stick it back on the drill press, using the 1/2 inch bit through the existing hole to center it. I clamp it into place, and then remove the 1/2 inch drill bit and drill whatever size center hole I want. I usually cut two at once and make them all the same. Then I use a template to mark the center holes for the positions of the magnets, and drill the holes for them. Here are two I made today with 1" neos fro this project.
bolt, any ideas where one can find some small metglas or similar rods? I was looking for some but so far no luck. Not sure I can afford but will consider it if I can find some.
I thought you guys were smarter than this ::)
[...]
Maybe we learn some things in the process
[...]
I wonder why Sterling Allen wasn't all over this one? Does anyone else find that weird?Maybe Sterling Allen could see something we don't.
Its a clear as day the battery lead is the coax supply from the DC inverter. If you ever stripped back a laptop supply you see the same wire. Its SHIELDED coax because its a switching inverter and is RF noisy and there are inline chokes fitted near the inverter also.I was able to get amorphous metals,
Oh wait that might be an AA battery with some black tape around it...oh bugger.:)
PS make sure you find some nice cores otherwise this ain't going to work. Its the very reason Muller went in search of special black Amorphous sand. However in recent years high power Switching PSU's require very high permeability cores some are 100 or 1000 times better than standard ferrite so no need to go looking for black sand.
Hi Romerouk:
I was able to get amorphous alloys, But also in accordance with the requirements and the size of my production, If I use it to make the coil core, Will get better effect?
The following are commonly used in magnetic parameters of comparison:
Im not speaking about what Romero did, but there is many ways for "replicators",what is the size of such a cap ??
For example with Supercapacitor 58.33 Farads with a maximum voltage of 15V and maximum energy storage of 5133 Joules at a cutoff voltage of 7.0V ... this allows the SC to power a hypothetical 5W load for 17.11 minutes or a 20W load for 4.28 minutes. When combined with power supply like the HESC104, HESC-SER, or HPSC104-SER, the result is a “no Battery†uninterrupted power supply (UPS) complete with 4A charger and power management features capable of supplying short term power to a system for a set period of time until a proper shutdown is completed and/or main power is restored.
Is it difficult to change the cover of CAP???
May be ::)
cheers,
khabe
If this guy was for real, don't you think he would have posted the plans on a site like this before showing the entire world?
I just watched again and indeed at 2:52 to 2:55 where he connects the red cable, which is ALSO connected to the negative, to the positive of the battery for about 8 seconds (which should definitely melt the cable). See pics.
I don't know what this means. I am not saying it is a fake, actually I think it is for real, but something is wrong here.
Fausto.
@khabe
are this supercapacitors 15volts? can you show a link?
that link before is for 2.5 volts
Diameter 1.3 inches (33 mm)
Length 2.44 inches (62 mm)
Tab width .25 inches (6.4 mm)
Tab height .23 inches (5.9 mm)
To be honest Im not familiar with Supercaps (or Ultracapacitors, does not matter how you call it) - I have none :-[
http://www.ecnmag.com/Articles/2009/09/Supercapacitors-Replace-Batteries-with-Help-of-3mm-×-3mm-Charger/
if not open then just Google -> Supercapacitors Replace Batteries with Help of 3mm × 3mm Charger
cheers,
khabe
Your're right. Please, read my post before this one. I am with you. Let's build. My parts are on the way.
We need ALSO to look at every detail of this video and evidence presented. We will dissect it many times since it is not an easy thing to come up with an OU device. So, with that being said, I will probably show many more pictures and ask more questions about it.
Not to be skeptical at all, after all you can see my videos on Youtube and easily see I am crazy believer in OU and a experimentalist. It is simply necessary to honestly discuss ALL the parameters and eliminate doubt. It is through this process that we learn.
In my case, I raised an issue and Now I learned how the DC is connected back to the battery which I was not able to see before, BUT it took my honest open criticism of the my not understanding of the problem to get it solved.
Peace,
Fausto.
You even do not need 16 or 24 volts, the only thing you need is the tommyrot talking,
And of course you can change one big supercap to number of smaller sizes - rersult will be the same or even better ;)
In reality your coil (pair of) unit gives out only few volts and you use DC-DC step up converter to get 12v,
Others will buy a lot of stuff, will spend the last family money for superalloy, for Metglas and for etc ... and everyone will wonder "why my replication does not work?" >:(
And of course you need to be very resentful when someone surmise about hidden batteries or about invisible wires ... you must to be good actor, bringed to tears and after that you need to to blab out to someone from forum, that "two men visited you and offered ... millions ... oh sorry, I have no rights anymore to continue with public discussion.
cheers,
khabe
NB !!!
I do not accuse anyone - I just abridge one of scenario how it could be done, the OU ::)
well, whatever :) call it litz, in UK is called Stranded Enamelled Copper -
Bunched copper conductors each strand individually enamelled
http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/st_wire.html
7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu
Ref: ST01250007-500
I just bought that DC converter from Maplin and opened. The circuit takes all space inside, leaves no room for a battery.If the circuit is removed will be removed with the voltage switch too as is soldered direct on the board. If there is a battery is not there.
@BaroutologosI was reading all posts for yesterday and I am finding this one strange, bad ideea what?
that was bad ideea....
Hi David70,
Would you mind taking a close-up picture of the opened converter, please?
Would like to see it, not because I do not believe you but to see how big heat sink is involved (I suppose it is a switch-mode converter).
(You can attach max file individual size of 500kB here, it is more than enough for a closeup, I think.)
Thanks, Gyula
I was reading all posts for yesterday and I am finding this one strange, bad ideea what?
I am looking before this post and I can see Baroutologos post talking nice there, nothing bad, the post is edited too, maybe there was something before and removed after.
[...]
It has been brought to my attention that this demonstration was a hoax.
Question, could the perpetrator be criminally charged? Or would this be a civil matter? What would be the charge? Who would /could bring the charge?
If you know the answer, would you mind Cc'ing me to my email via sterlingda {at} pureenergysystems.com
We're working up a story for this for PESN and want to include that information to help deter any future hoaxes.
Thanks
It has been brought to my attention that this demonstration was a hoax.
Question, could the perpetrator be criminally charged? Or would this be a civil matter? What would be the charge? Who would /could bring the charge?
If you know the answer, would you mind Cc'ing me to my email via sterlingda {at} pureenergysystems.com
We're working up a story for this for PESN and want to include that information to help deter any future hoaxes.
Thanks
Companies and corporation fight each other to hire the TALENT that are the experts in the fields of intelect and technology that they offer for sale in their products and services. So an entity that wished to capitalize on Romerouk's find would not want to purchase the device. They would want to hire HIM. It is through his expertise that they would have the best chance to be first to market with devices that utilize the technology he has harnessed.
If you assume also that Romerouk is the upstanding fellow he appears to be, working with such a company would be the fastest way to HELP the people that need the benefits of this technology. Helping us "nutters" to have personal generators on our workbenches is a nice validation, but only a delay in getting this into products that can help the world. So by joining a reputable company he could get financial security and further his desires to pursue inventing and propagating his visions. Who wouldn't jump on that?
I hope the reality is more like this scenario, or that he has just stepped off the stage for now for his own peace of mind. He has definitely given enough information to the public to ensure it is not lost. So no "buyout" scenarios with intentions to suppress makes sense.
Now, back to work, all of you. The replicators have my admiration and gratitude. Please post everything you learn, including the failures.
Thanks,
M.
It has been brought to my attention that this demonstration was a hoax.WHAT IS THIS!
Question, could the perpetrator be criminally charged? Or would this be a civil matter? What would be the charge? Who would /could bring the charge?
If you know the answer, would you mind Cc'ing me to my email via sterlingda {at} pureenergysystems.com
We're working up a story for this for PESN and want to include that information to help deter any future hoaxes.
Thanks
WHAT IS THIS!
Khabe,
stop the discussion with the supercapacitor.
There was no one.
ALso in the first video he has only the coils output directly via the bridge rectifiers to the lamp
and it was also 24 Watts out and only about 11 Watts input
with NO capacitor !
Why to anger, Stefan :o
I did repeat several times I do not speak about Romero, I just thought about how its possible to fake,
just need to change the label (the name and figures) and SuperCap looks like common electrolytic cap ::)
cheers,
khabe
[...]
I do not speak about Romero, I just thought about how its possible to fake,
just need to change the label (the name and figures) and SuperCap looks like common electrolytic cap ::)
[...]
khabe
the main supply switch is NOT at the position shown in the schematic!
(page 1 this thread, as at 12:33 GMT 11 May '11)
when Romero switches off the device at the end of the "self-run test 1" vid (18:48), the DC converter is no longer connected to the joint output of the FWBRs - but it is STILL CONNECTED to the buffer cap
IF there was a battery in the cap then it would be STILL CONNECTED to the motor drive when Romero disconnects the FWBRs!
yet, instantly he disconnects the FWBRs (at 18:48) you can hear the rotor start to spin down
the FWBR o/p is across the only 2 connections on the buffer cap, so IF there was a battery inside the cap, then we'd then have to claim that Romero has also hidden an extra circuit into the cap which detects that the battery terminal voltage has dropped slightly (because no i/p now from FWBRs) and therefore disconnects the battery from those same 2 terminals
of course, at start-up, such a circuit would then need to be able to detect that the FWBRs have just been connected and connect the battery to those same 2 terminals again
so to avoid extra sensing complexity, our 'Cap-Spoofing' circuit would probably need to be continuously connected to the 'hidden' battery (or have a 2nd battery available) so that it could re-connect the main battery to the terminals again
[...]
the whole 'battery-in-cap' objection starts to look just a tad, shall we say, 'far-fetched'?!?
[...]
the DC Conv was switched to 12V at ~18:10 (DVM shows 12V)
Romero states that at 12V DC conv setting he reads ~15V at buffer cap
energy for 15V in 47000uF cap (at switch-off, 18:48) ~= 5.3 Joules = 5.3 Watt-seconds
at 12V i/p the motor draws 12W
so - at switch-off, with 5.3 Watt-seconds in the cap, and even IF the DC converter could convert it all (which it can't!) then the cap can only supply enough energy to drive the motor for less than HALF a second!
it's pretty clear, therefore, that the ONLY function of the buffer cap is to filter the FWBR o/p waveform and provide steady, smoothed DC
ie. when Romero disconnects the FWBRs - that baby is just going to spin down
(taking about 100 seconds - replicators please note - good bearings - low cogging - nice work Romero!)
this same argument applies to a SuperCap - IF there was a SuperCap hidden inside the 47000uF case, then it would have to get disconnected by the same sort of circuit i just described - otherwise the rotor would NOT spin down in 100 seconds
Companies and corporation fight each other to hire the TALENT that are the experts in the fields of intelect and technology that they offer for sale in their products and services. So an entity that wished to capitalize on Romerouk's find would not want to purchase the device. They would want to hire HIM. It is through his expertise that they would have the best chance to be first to market with devices that utilize the technology he has harnessed.
If you assume also that Romerouk is the upstanding fellow he appears to be, working with such a company would be the fastest way to HELP the people that need the benefits of this technology. Helping us "nutters" to have personal generators on our workbenches is a nice validation, but only a delay in getting this into products that can help the world. So by joining a reputable company he could get financial security and further his desires to pursue inventing and propagating his visions. Who wouldn't jump on that?
I hope the reality is more like this scenario, or that he has just stepped off the stage for now for his own peace of mind. He has definitely given enough information to the public to ensure it is not lost. So no "buyout" scenarios with intentions to suppress makes sense.
Now, back to work, all of you. The replicators have my admiration and gratitude. Please post everything you learn, including the failures.
Thanks,
M.
Can u give an example of one free energy device that has gotten this financial security.I have not seen one device that was ever shown to be "free energy" where enough details were disclosed so that successful and demonstrated replications were produced.
I can give up to 10 that have been surpressed thru this model u r proposing.Go ahead and try to back that statement up with facts. Name any 10 where enough details were disclosed so that successful and demonstrated replications were produced, that were then successfully suppressed.
Then figure out how he did the first video with the lamp directly connected to the rectifier
output with any DC2DC converter...
Are you serious or is it some kind of excentric humor ::)Quite serious. I work for a high tech company in a field with relatively few competitors. We guard our talent against competitors. We will not post a company organization chart for this reason: Recruiting firms would use it to try and convince our talent to go to the competition.
When you are serious, then ... oh dear ... need to be hurry and ask doctor to give some pills :o
Talent ... experts ... intelect ... technology ... oh boy, what kind of bathos!!! .... mhh, this is very serious case,
cheers,
khabe
WHAT IS THIS!
Quite serious. I work for a high tech company in a field with relatively few competitors. We guard our talent against competitors. We will not post a company organization chart for this reason: Recruiting firms would use it to try and convince our talent to go to the competition.
And when anyone does leave, they usually end up working for the competition. We hire from our competitors all the time.
on a negative note, in the video where its running suspended it looks to me as if its going entirely too slow to be working in self-run the same way it was displayed before being suspended.
[...]
Sterlinga is the owner of a quite influencial and informative website on new energy technology.Thats why I am worried about his post
http://peswiki.com
In my opinion this device can not be patented as it has already been open sourced and the details published .
Earlier in the thread I posted a link to ferrite rods available from Farnell:
http://bg.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=1002386&Ntk=gensearch_001&Ntt=ferrite+rod&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial
http://www.ferroxcube.com/prod/assets/sfmatgra_frnt.pdf
Please someone advise if these are OK for the replication and what is the difference with those pulled from a PC PSU used by Romero.
I found a source for 9x0.10mm and 12x0.10mm Litz wire which I hope will do the job.
It has been brought to my attention that this demonstration was a hoax.
Question, could the perpetrator be criminally charged? Or would this be a civil matter? What would be the charge? Who would /could bring the charge?
If you know the answer, would you mind Cc'ing me to my email via sterlingda {at} pureenergysystems.com
We're working up a story for this for PESN and want to include that information to help deter any future hoaxes.
Thanks
T H I S W A S A B I G F A K E, S T O P R E P L I C A T I N G
THIS IS MY LAST POST
World will be the same
SORRY!
Earlier in the thread I posted a link to ferrite rods available from Farnell:
I've been asked where I got that info. It came from Romero himself in this message: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg285496#msg285496
As follows:
Also, I got the following email from Romero:
From: RomeroUK [snip]
Mylo, is that you?
@pese .I can see many ways to regulate this device . One war would be to use a suitable light bulb in series with the motor feed .I believe the resistance of a lightbulb increases with temperature , so it would regulate the motor current . A FUSE would also help in the motor circuit . Another simple way for home builders is a centrifugal governor [like steam engine] to switch motor on and off . Pese , I would like to ask you if you think this device works .Yes neptune. Look in my Profil (=sended messages)
The information from Stirlinga is very revealing . Saying that a thing should be considered as non working, is not the same thing as saying it does not work . Looks like the guy got scared off and maybe bought as well . Patenting will not stop uws "rolling our own".
I've been asked where I got that info. It came from Romero himself in this message: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg285496#msg285496
As follows:
Also, I got the following email from Romero:
From: RomeroUK
To: sterlingda...
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 8:37 AM
Subject: RomeroUK
Dear Mr Sterling,
I am sending this email after I saw your opinion on the forum.
First of all I do not have that device anymore, probably is destroyed, I have no idea and I don’t care anymore.
I have spent years in trying to do different things, replicating all sort of devices and spent lots of money for that.
This last week was a nightmare for me, you have no idea under what pressure I have been and how many people contacted me, warnings that I should keep quiet, people saying they run multimillion companies and want be to build for Africa,… and in the end, yesterday, I had a personal visit after leaving my day to day job.
I had the impression that I live in a free country but it was demonstrated that anything is possible, we will never move forward.
I am an IT guy and I thought that I have a good brain but now after that I even forgot simple passwords and things I use every day, this is how scared I am.
I have a family, kids and they are most important for me. I had a lot of problems home with my wife because this too, she never wanted me to publish any of my work, but I did, and it looks that I should have listen to her. Well, now I learned my lesson.
I have never asked anyone for money or invited them to do a copy of the device I built, I have only showed my results, no intention to harm anyone in any way.
All I want now is to enjoy the life I had before and forget about doing any more research, I don’t have the power to do that anymore.
I am not good for this kind of pressure, I already have hearth problems, it is not worth it.
I just hope that one day someone better than me will have the strength to go thru all this.
I have always stated that I have no intention to sell or do any public demonstrations, please check my posts on overunity forum.
This is the end I hope, I don’t want be contacted by any other people, I have no more info to share. All I had I posted free and it is better to be considered as not working.
Best Regards,
RomeroUK
VIDEO..
OSCILOGRAMM....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ945Y891g8&feature=feedlik
Okay that's how it looks like WHAT? Could you elaborate on what this video is supposed to illustrate?viev next video author....
some news from your friendly steeltpu rumor mill. Sterling is . . . trying to badger romerouk into getting back on here and finishing what he started.
Sterling,
Thank you for posting that letter from Romero.
The "system" strikes again. His device has been taken away and destroyed. He is not to do research anymore.
There is only one conclusion.
Ron
@Pese .I seemed to have missed your information on controlling the muller Dynamo . This is a shame because I always value your opinion . I can not find it in your profile pages either . Could you [or someone] please provide a link .
For all the conspiracy theorists
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6MOnehCOUw
I also figured out with the use of a 100 watt incandescent light bulb which acted like a fuse with the high voltages from a microwave of AC with a light bulb fixture that the light bulb did not turn on or destroyed the fillament inside this 100 watt light bulb and if you have any questions about this please ask away seriously !! This is part to what I found out with the use of AC and DC from Tesla work and Edison work together !!!@teslaedison,
if you want to contact me about this I can if you want to phone me at: 309-660-4627 I am an ex US Navy MOS was TQ Radar Sonar Tech. my name is Thomas
I also figured out with the use of a 100 watt incandescent light bulb which acted like a fuse with the high voltages from a microwave of AC with a light bulb fixture that the light bulb did not turn on or destroyed the fillament inside this 100 watt light bulb and if you have any questions about this please ask away seriously !! This is part to what I found out with the use of AC and DC from Tesla work and Edison work together !!!It is in anyway better to use ohm-ic loads.
if you want to contact me about this I can if you want to phone me at: 309-660-4627 I am an ex US Navy MOS was TQ Radar Sonar Tech. my name is Thomas
it seems we are in need of a better medium with which to share out information that offers an even greater deal of anonymity than this forum.
I also figured out with the use of a 100 watt incandescent light bulb which acted like a fuse with the high voltages from a microwave of AC with a light bulb fixture that the light bulb did not turn on or destroyed the fillament inside this 100 watt light bulb and if you have any questions about this please ask away seriously !! This is part to what I found out with the use of AC and DC from Tesla work and Edison work together !!!
if you want to contact me about this I can if you want to phone me at: 309-660-4627 I am an ex US Navy MOS was TQ Radar Sonar Tech. my name is Thomas
heres a thought... not to ridicule the whole idea because i believe it...
BUT we seem to always have this understanding that there are powerful forces out there intent on silencing or discrediting whoever should come across and attempt to share these energy miracles. from a logical perspective this does seem very real and likely.
But knowing this, we continue to provide our experience in a manner that simply invites these powers right to us.
doing this over and over and expecting these powers to just skip over or ignore us through luck can be called insanity by some people.
it seems we are in need of a better medium with which to share out information that offers an even greater deal of anonymity than this forum.
i like the fact that Stefan is able to backup and store all deleted youtube vids, but thats just a start.
the CIA coming to snatch you away is not only something we should consciously make an effort to avoid, but it provides far too easy of an excuse for would-be hoax starters..
if i was Romero i would not been so open as he was.. i would have shared the same information but not so publicly, and definitely not in a way where my personal information could be tracked down. that is ludicrous.
Anyone who yet again finds themselves traveling down this all too familiar road should consider sharing their information in a completely anonymous manner, which hopefully some of us can create in some type of way. some type of venue where OU info can be shared and the poster has total confidentiality regarding his or her personal life. fight the urge to receive personal praise. its not all about you.
are going to have to go through this yet again?
if we are indeed "rebels" against a governmental oppression then maybe we should start acting like it and move accordingly to work against this oppression rather than just bending right over in front of uncle sam asking him to give us a swift kick in the reality ass
I've been thinking along the same lines. Totally agree. But how to share without being squashed? again? I have a great deal of sympathy for RomeroUK -- I've been there in a rather similar situation, and in my case, it cost me my job. I hope Romero keeps his, for his family's sake especially.
I suspect that none of you know who I am, except perhaps one.
Does it matter? except that I'm working on alt-energy devices quietly, I've posted mostly on another forum, but far from everything, and I have a good oscilloscope on my home bench and access to state-of-the-art DSO's.
Let's say a friend has a device, that appears using state-of-the-art DSO's to determine Pin and Pout -- clearly is overunity. Where could he post the schematic, anonymously? (so the Sea Aye Ay/En Ess Ay/BigOil would not know no who posted it - not easy, I think) and if he did, would you believe it enough to try it?
But if you can think of another way to communicate privately, I'd like to hear it, and then maybe my brilliant friend will share his circuit with you. He'd like to so that it could be checked, but is intimidated. Yes, its has been replicated and looks good... but I expect you'll want to try it yourself. One transistor, bifilar winding, brilliant IMO. How can he communicate it to serious (and non-black-suit) types?
What I've thought of is this -- we have a meeting where qualified guys bring their "best" devices and we listen and TEST on the spot. No cell phones around. VERY careful about who is invited and confidentiality AT the meeting. Then, we replicate and get the word out all at once around the world via internet when we have a number of working devices. BIG guys don't get all the money and control of energy. Humanity benefits.
In the present case with the Muller device , the schematic and details are already out there and folks are replicating. That's great, and with enough replicators we might be able to get this out to humanity without the invention being squashed or bought up by BIG corps/in bed with/BIG guv-mint. This may be the best way we've got.
I'd recommend that at least 3 replicators privately agree to announce their results at the SAME MOMENT, wherever in the world they are. This MOMENT could be pre-determined here without the replicators identifying themselves further until that time where the results (and build details) are actually disclosed, all at once.
Somehow, we've got to stop playing on the chessboard that THEY control.
I am in
what a good idea.
how do we get this off the ground?
who else?
That's what I was suggesting earlier. Most people think that a nickname and password offer protection but in fact it's not very difficult for the skilled to track you down if they want to.
Thanks for responding, Sterling. RomeroUK sounds sincere to me, but very frightened. Very.
[...]
I think this is why he said "fake" in his final parting post, don't you? because he had a visit to his home and is now intimidated and frightened? We are inventors, engineers -- not used to intimidation at our homes.
This is "coerced" testimony, not admissible as hard evidence.
But if you have REAL evidence that the device is a fake, I'd like to hear it.
Meanwhile, if you publish on your website that it is a fake without such firm evidence -- that would be unfair, my friend. Also, pls note that replications will come forth. I'm hoping you will wait and see what the replications bring.
Especially since they log our IP on this forum...
Well I just spoke to Romero on the phone and
I have promised him , not to publically tell what he said.
The only thing I can say is, that I still have trust in him.
But he has stopped now the work and must care about his family.
I hope that the replications will prove the case.
Regards, Stefan.
But you still can use proxies to upload stuff here.
Then you are anonymous.
Thanks Stefan. Even though you can't disclose the gist of your conversation, I take it that the stuff is REAL! So, we will continue to replicate...
cheers
chrisC
I still feel shocked of what happened since i feel repsonsible somehow for that swift suppression Romero undergone..
Hello Guys that are doing a great work but I would love to put my two sense into the pot if I may because I did an experiment with just distilled water by itself with the use of Paper clip and stainless steel spoon so if you are interested in how I did it by Tesla's AC with Edison's DC working together please contact me any time about this at:
309-660-4627 ask for me Thomas
PS : Here is a video showing white pure H2 and O2 white cloud gases below
http://www.fliqz.com/aspx/permalink.aspx?at=5776ccb97e4a432d923e9b4186cad72e&a=177157c753114cd4a05ac46773477d7f
What I've thought of is this -- we have a meeting where qualified guys bring their "best" devices and we listen and TEST on the spot. No cell phones around. VERY careful about who is invited and confidentiality AT the meeting. Then, we replicate and get the word out all at once around the world via internet when we have a number of working devices. BIG guys don't get all the money and control of energy. Humanity benefits.
In the present case with the Muller device , the schematic and details are already out there and folks are replicating. That's great, and with enough replicators we might be able to get this out to humanity without the invention being squashed or bought up by BIG corps/in bed with/BIG guv-mint. This may be the best way we've got.
I'd recommend that at least 3 replicators privately agree to announce their results at the SAME MOMENT, wherever in the world they are. This MOMENT could be pre-determined here without the replicators identifying themselves further until that time where the results (and build details) are actually disclosed, all at once.
Somehow, we've got to stop playing on the chessboard that THEY control.
I am in
what a good idea.
how do we get this off the ground?
I also figured out with the use of a 100 watt incandescent light bulb which acted like a fuse with the high voltages from a microwave of AC with a light bulb fixture that the light bulb did not turn on or destroyed the fillament inside this 100 watt light bulb and if you have any questions about this please ask away seriously !! This is part to what I found out with the use of AC and DC from Tesla work and Edison work together !!!
if you want to contact me about this I can if you want to phone me at: 309-660-4627 I am an ex US Navy MOS was TQ Radar Sonar Tech. my name is Thomas
Hi all,
Has anyone had any joy with coils/core ?
No matter what I try, I cannot seem to get anywhere near the 12 or so volts on a single coil.
I have tried many arrangements.
Any suggetions are welcome
Kind Regards, Penno
It is not the Government that owns all the Oil, they just tax it., Oil is owned mostly in the private sector. this private sector is what you need to be concerned about.
ad a bit of paranoia and pinch of schizophrenia and you got a good conspirator.
I have a cousin in the C.I.A and they (the foundation) could really give a crap about this site, nor any invention and or theory on this site. unless you are a criminal of course.
but hey, if you like living a mentally chaotic life then go right ahead. please indulge.
Jerry 8)
It is not the Government that owns all the Oil, they just tax it., Oil is owned mostly in the private sector. this private sector is what you need to be concerned about.
ad a bit of paranoia and pinch of schizophrenia and you got a good conspirator.
I have a cousin in the C.I.A and they (the foundation) could really give a crap about this site, nor any invention and or theory on this site. unless you are a criminal of course.
but hey, if you like living a mentally chaotic life then go right ahead. please indulge.
Jerry 8)
So it's a conspiracy theory that Cheney and Rumsfeld have any connection with Halliburton ...
Hi Stefan,
I am only checking with a single coil/core - trying everything I have available.
My rpms can be changed as I am drving the rotor with a DC motor using a PWM.
I am not concerned yet with the drive side of things.
Wanting to prove the generator side of the device first.
Kindest Regards, Penno
So it's a conspiracy theory that the Bushes had stocks in Harken Energy
and Cheney and Rumsfeld have any connection with Halliburton ...
Maybe not the CIA, but I have read the NSA is involved. I read that they intervened in how 3 phase motors are made as some out there were modifying them for ou. Rotoverter? And involved with how some transformers are made.I am not fluent with the N.S.A but I believe that they (the foundation) would not be so different than the C.I.A, I just have no relatives in the N.S.A to resolve this discussion. that I know of for certain. anyways.
As for Govt and tax, you betcha. I was told today of a town that many of the people there had windmills and eventually they are being taxed for each one, as revenues were reduced because of it.
And now I have also heard of plans to add tax to gas by miles used, and its added at the pump. I dont recall how, some device, but will tell when I speak to him again.
Mags
Hi all,
Has anyone had any joy with coils/core ?
No matter what I try, I cannot seem to get anywhere near the 12 or so volts on a single coil.
I have tried many arrangements.
Any suggetions are welcome
Kind Regards, Penno
scaled up ?:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcnISxcx1nI&feature=player_profilepage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdCSbLdKVJw&feature=player_profilepage
I thought about an idea how this could work.
Take the rotor Romero did and its coils. There is one less magnet than coil. Cogging is there. Imagine now that we balance things so that cogging is even in every step, magnet approaching coil and passing by with net energy equal 0.
Now, if you spin the rotor fast enough it will somehow spin for a long time with zero energy loss caused by the cogging and only resistance losses. The energy necessary to pass the cogging is gained back as soon as it pass the coil, if repulsion is used as the mechanism. Such as Romero's design.
So far nothing new, no OU. Now, connect the coils to loads, such as 10 ohms resistors and again, balance the wheel by using distance of the magnets and coils and other ways so that cogging is again there but net zero with one difference now, we have a load and heat is created on the resistors. No OU yet, only more losses because of Lenz-laws.
Now, let's imagine that if the closed path of the whole wheel is balanced, as the rotor spins we generate electricity by the coils and the counter-EMF that increases the resistance of the cogging therefore causing greater losses.
How to fix that, imagine that if the closed magnetic path is very balanced in every step of the magnets passing by the coils will always have equal forces on all the points (magnets and coils) but what would happen if in one point we either loose some of the balance via making a magnet flux less intense, would not that cause the rotor to spin one revolution and cog at that unbalanced point?
Would be possible to now unbalance the opposing magnet/coil and restore the current magnet/coil balance causing the rotor to spin again with zero net loss/gain only paying for the unbalancing energy cost?
Would be possible to use the loads on the coils to be elements that cause that unbalance while using the energy generated when the rotor spins because the unbalance magnetic closed path flux?
I remember Romero saying that was very important to tune the motor with the proper load already connected so that the balancing would be specific to that load?
It sounds to me that one could create a very balanced closed path magnetic flux rotor where the coils are the pulsating unbalancing actors for causing the rotor to spin indefinitely only paying for the unbalancing cost which is NOT proportional to the strength of the rotation of the rotor. The rotor will spin proportional to the total magnetic energy in place, stronger magnets stronger spins and therefore more energy generated and less energy necessary to cause unbalance.
Please, shoot my idea.
Fausto.
If you guys want to take your privacy seriously, what I'm reading so far won't cut it. See this:
http://cryptogon.com/?p=624
High-Traffic Colluding Tor Routers in Washington, D.C., and the Ugly Truth About Online Anonymity
Working on replication. Deleted my post. Will post failure as me or success as an unknown "New User" from remote computer through ANON site.
That handles security and fun at the same time, no? Good Luck to all.
Simply, turn it off. will your illusions disappear? I really don't think so, the Government has public guidelines that it 'must' follow. are you really running and hiding from the U.S Government? why! if you feel they are tracking "you" down then maybe you do have something to hide.
jerry 8)
Simply, turn it off. will your illusions disappear? I really don't think so, the Government has public guidelines that it 'must' follow. are you really running and hiding from the U.S Government? why! if you feel they are tracking "you" down then maybe you do have something to hide and it is not O.U.the government's main prerogative is to invade my privacy... ::) that and to ensure there is a certain amount of fecal matter in my drinking water. the RIGHT to anonymity is a basic tenet of "freedom". whether or not i (or anyone else) have something to hide is irrelevant.
there are people who are purely criminal minded but are perfectly normal in society, sometimes not. these are those who get caught. I can even go into lie theory if I need to discuss lie theory in a court of law.
I bet 'most of you never knew there was a 'Lie' Theory did you?
jerry 8)
Having seen the same old sad story a number of times in this forum, I list some telltale signs of a hoax or illusion:
1.) I only have one working OU-device:
A honest, mentally sane and intelligent person would build more than one device, just to be sure it works. Even a poor person can do that, it just would take more time than for a person having some income.
2.) I do not tell all secrets of my OU-device because I have worked so hard and therefore I want to become rich:
There are only two directions an inventor can go, either he gives it away for free or he shuts up and only talks to possible investors. Once we have a whiner and wincer, he has nothing, just a hoax, illusions or fraud. Usually it is a mental flaw, because fraudsters are much more clever, they rip off investors with an elaborate scam.
3.) Strange people threaten me:
The only real pressure is having no working OU-device. One has to make it mysterious and strange to hide that fact. And there will be real pressure in case relatives or friends have given money for an impossible project. In case money was borrowed from banks or investors, legal hassles will start. Also enterprises who have invested effort and money into the OU-device (presented by the inventor as working) will become extremely pissed when nothing comes out of it after a while.
4) There always is the straight forward scam (which is legal): write a book or make a DVD about possible OU-devices repeating mysterious tales and rumors based on strange theories never proven.
The best way of handling a working OU-device:
First you must have a few working models. This is the one and only condition, the rest can be done in many ways.
Greetings, Conrad
...
@ All . There is a lot of fear and paranoia here . Anyone can put a black suit on . Could it be that "Gary" , disappointed that he could not buy it , just went to the pub on the council estate and hired some guys with a Ford Transit and baseball bats? To me , that sounds a lot more likely than guv-mint suits .
@Conradelectro .Romero`s device does not tick all your boxes . Assuming you built an OU device , could you contain yourself long enough to build several more . I can not recall Romero hiding any information , he answered all questions . Is it not possible that he complained of "strange people threatening him " because strange people were threatening him?
@Penno64. Re coil winding and voltage problems . Wind a coil with just 10 turns , and measure the output volts . Divide that by 10 to give you VOLTS PER TURN .Now you can easily calculate how many turns are needed to give a given output voltage . With the 10 turn coil running , experiment with other parameters to get the best output .
[...]
As regards the naysayers , all I will say is this ...
@nul-points
[...]
but the "magic smoke" escapes and it has not worked since
[...]
@Loner . Agree with most of what you say ,but remember that the output is not simple AC but 7 sinewaves , separated by about 50 degrees of phase shift . Not sure if you can therefore use a Cockcroft Multiplier type voltage doubler .
...I guess what I'm saing is I agree with those who say the Rom project might not have been optimzed as well as it could have been.
John H (DadHav)
[...]
Why not start a data base that everyone can refer to which is a gathering of known to be facts
[...]
John H (DadHav)
Maybe it is worthwhile to point out that Romero posted a few more changes to his videoed self-running dynamo with improved results.
lanenal
I am not the only one who tested and confirmed Kromrey design.I have been looking again to the posts from the begining and I found this one regarding the second link.
In my setup I have no moving coils, the magnets are turning.No rings, less friction....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTDGtSKrLPQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCJKCXXZb-Y&feature=related
the second video people should pay attention and understand ....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX-PsJZzri8&feature=related
The hardcore builders were pretty efficient when it came to pulling all the info and study down. There were only a few really. Few new people have worked with this as time is a big factor to build this devise and as you said little to no info is remaining.
I have been looking again to the posts from the begining and I found this one regarding the second link.
What if that applies here to one coil or more?
bueno estoy haciendo un mini montaje para hacer las pruebas para comprobar por mi mismo los resultados de romero asi no estar devariando como muchos aqui en este foro y quejandose
tanto analizar he visto que el esquema es como un ciclo lunar dejo el archivo de excell con el que estoy trabajando en el montaje de los imanes lo estoy haciendo de dos formas a la vez
con rotor de 8 imanes y en los estatores de 9 bobinas y otro que estoy montando a la vez con rotor 8 imanes y en los estatores de 11 bobinas espero que por las cargas que ejerce la luna en los ciclos de los resultados positivos dando asi la veracidad que plantea romero
agradezco a los que creen en un cambio de vidas en general y las apreciaciones de romero y sus amigos
atentamente
cash
clave del archivo
ENERGIALIBRE
Could someone here do me a favor? I can't watch those youtube videos in China. If somebody could download the video and upload it somewhere for me or email to me? I will upload it to a video website within China (such as www.tudou.com and www.youku.com, as they are in Chinese) so that even if Stefan's backup on youtube is removed someday, you can still have access to it from those sites in China.
lanenal
Thank's WopWop. I should have introduced myself and invited everyone to my channel but I didn't want anyone to think I was drumming up viewers. Fact of the mater is I've done a lot of experiments with stator motors which are a larger version of the popular R/C airplane motor. One of them particularly became very controversial because I couldn't explain things well enough in a 10 minute video. If you are interested in seeing one of these larger motors you are certainly welcome: http://www.youtube.com/user/DadHav#p/u/2/nlO8UDsc-Fc
Back to the subject. I'm sorry it takes me a long time to catch up (I'm old) I read the PDF at the beginning of the thread. It's more complete than most instructions I've seen on similar projects. It was easy to see Rom was loosing his patients a little by the end of the document. I don't blame him. The place I'm still lost is everything on the PDF shows a driver circuit and coils on the generator. At some point did Rom switch to the DC motor I see in the video? I see no way to get a radiant event out of the standard generator coils, wether the rotor is driven by the four coils on the motor or a separate motor. The generator itself is very similar to many Axial Flux generators used for wind power. Some of these use a metal flux plate behind the coils much like the washer used in Rom's motor. I can't remember ever seeing an additional magnet behind the flux plate/ring though. So I'm wondering if Rom stumbled on something just a little different that doesn't require a radiant event or collapsing Bloch wall in a core to bring a device to unity or over. Am I missing the point there also? The PDF looks like it's plenty enough to get started on something.
Thank you
John H (DadHav)
[...]
Who knows. Maybe I'll end up being a Hero member some day.
Thank you.
John H (DadHav)
.
what R was experiencing was 'runaway' - this is another v. strong indicator for OU
/url]
[...]
Thanks nul-points... so many of us missed that.
Ron
I play with model aircraft and use similar motors to the Turnigy series. the ESC or Electronic Speed Controller, can be found for less than $50 usd. cost is dependent on the current rating of the ESC. I can locate some at hobbyking.com for like $30, look there for some drives and motors (brushed and brushless) if you are interested.
Most of these brushless motors are really efficient 80+ % and can be run on battery voltages of <4v to over 50v. they usually link them to lithium polymer (LIPO) batteries due to their small footprint and high current sourcing abilities.
[...]
If you want to see how the setup works without being in an airlplane you can see it on this video. http://www.youtube.com/user/DadHav#p/u/1/e0q8DDtjvMY
Hope this might help
John H (DadHav)
I have only read through about 1/3 of these posts, but I did not see anyone studying the vibrational characteristics of this motor/generator.
[...]
Are my numbers correct?
Dave L
I have only read through about 1/3 of these posts, but I did not see anyone studying the vibrational characteristics of this motor/generator.
9 stator coils 8 magnets on the rotor
One rotation will produce
Coil pulses 8
Magnet pulses 9
Total pulses 72
At 5000 RPM which is 83.3 Hz, there will be a frequency of 6000 Hz generated on the rotor. Half the magnets will be retarding and half will be pulling and two will be neutral.
Each coil will receive 8 pulses, and each magnet will receive 9 pulses per rotation.
Coil pulse frequency will be 666.6 Hz
Magnet pulse frequency 750 Hz
The strong magnetic field will be moving in the reverse direction of the rotor at 8 times the RPM. It will also be moving along the coils at 9x the rpm, in the reverse direction of the rotors motion.
Are my numbers correct?
Dave L