i am not an expert in electronics but i try to do the best i can...!
saludos
jorge

Hello skycollection. I am very glad you are around. You do great work.

Fausto.

I have deleted probably 20 or more posts besides created (by mistake) 2 more thread so that all the TommyLReed rants and all that want to fill that thread are welcome.

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=10781.0  and
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=10783.0

please, again, I ask to focus on the topic "Muller Dynamo". Not rants, not "science is correct and OU is impossible". There are other threads for that.

After reading 120+ pages I am more than willing to keep deleting unnecessary posts.

Fausto.

Bill Muller also told me is that "all the amps is made on the first couple of layers of the coil against the core" whihc is pretty intersting...

and he went on to explain that when he winds his coils against his  blacksand cores, he does it while the special low-hysterisis amorphous  blacksand/epoxy mix he uses is still "wet" and so he squishes the firsl layer of wires into the blacksand, and gets more surface area this way and gets more amperage....
reason I am posting this is those sewing bobbins or whatever they are, that RomeroUK uses make it so you have a plastic-tube space between the ferrite core and the first layer of coil winds - so there must be a huge loss in amperage doing it like this.
I read here that one guy here building had that space machined down, but still there is no reason for anythign at all to be between the coil winds and the ferrite cores. Ferrite is electrically non-conductive, so best thign is tow wind right on top of it... put a small bit of super glue on the surface before winding too. (the super glue doesnt eat through the varnish so dont worry) also grind down a small groove (circumcision) near front of ferrite core to help prevent the coil winds from sliding off from the pull of attracive firing againt the rotor magnets to....also no reaosn for plastic between the coils and magnets either - drip some super-glue down the face of coil when through winding, let that dry (dont worry doesnt short anythign out) and then finally put coat of epoxy on surface of face of coil that faces towards the magnets....look for 1mm or 1.5mm airgap is good.
When you "pull back" the coil from tip of core as happens when you use those sewing bobbins you lose alot of power too since you want the coils to be right up ther next to the magnets....expecially when using coils as motor-coils the airgap between magnet sand coils is really important as being 1/2mm closer and you might have say 300rpm faster motor....so anyways I just dont like those sewing bobbins too much but if they work they work and probalby is best to totally replicate what Romero has done then imporve things after that...pretty soon it will not be argument if things are really overunity or if loopers are all elaborate fakes or not, but a freindly competions to make loopers the most effecint with most power outputs...

Also mentioned before that "solderable" litz wire is NO GOOD from motors and generators. it is really only "HOOK UP" wire and over time the very thin varnish will chaff from vibrations like you get in motors and generators and the coils will short and you will wonder what went wrong. USE "MOTOR RATED" wire - double coated, and the kind that regular soldering iron cannot penetrate the varnish coating.

@plengo,  you are messing with my scheme of saving all the pages here as they keep changing and numbers change.     Oh well good riddance to tommy troll. 

@all using solderable Litz wire as most of us probably have got if we ordered Litz.  Based on koneheads good info I'd suggest if you already have solderable Litz to put extra effort into making a solid build as vibration free as possible.  I'm sure most replicators at this point are not looking to build a long term power solution out of this first build but rather a proof of concept so it may not be that important but it would be nice to make it last. 

 @conradelektro,  I can't say for toranarod but it looks to me like either a hard drive bearing or CD drive bearing.  Those are fiairly low friction but I have had some concern if they will hold up under the much heavier weight of the acrylic rotor and magnets.  I think Romero said he used a hard drive bearing. 

Yes this is much better for a power supply
there is more control over something like this.
looks like a good circuit.

here is one I use and will try on the Muller.
I used this on an Adams motor I built.

That`s pretty cool. I use this configuration as an inverter in my bike & scooter ignition I build. It raises voltage from 12 V to 250 V needed for capacitor discharging ignition.

@plengo,  you are messing with my scheme of saving all the pages here as they keep changing and numbers change.     Oh well good riddance to tommy troll. 

Sorry about that  . I am learning how to work with this moderator's new job. It is pretty cool and difficult to be honest with you, but I like it. I am TRYING to keep it clean and focused. May be next time I will only remove the content of the post and leave the link.

I guess one can see how much is not in focus by simply looking the other 2 threads i created trying to be honest to this thread and the members points of view (which are vary valuable).

I am NOT trying to be bias or discriminative at all. So, please guys, be patient with my mistakes as I learn this thing. I really respect everyone's opinions even when they are in way out of line. We learn from each other. Now enough of my own "not in focus".

Today I am building my stators and the stable set. I have the rotor with very good bearings and a 12mm rod. This can handle easily 20000rpm (if it happens). I will be using for the first cut relay coils as I explained on my other thread (Muller for experimentalist). I bought enough to build two machines.

Fausto.

I am double posting this same info over at my forums on the following thread
http://www.overunity.org.uk/showthread.php?1773-MULLER-Generator-free...

Will try to keep both upto date

***

Well I started and finished the coils today.

 
The wire that arrived was 7 x 0.250 and not 7 x 0.125

 
But I wound them anyway and will just have to wind some new ones when the correct wire turns up.

The rig is designed so the coils can be easly swapped out, so not a problem and be good to compare.

 
Ended up doing 120 turns and each coil came out at 0.8ohms each.

 
CNC machine is cutting out base plate as I type.

@toranarod: thank you for the instant answer and the educational photo. I just had a look at eBay. It seems one can have Western Digital hard disk drives starting at 15.-- Euro (from Germany). Now I know what to look for.

Do you do anything special for balancing your rotor (besides trying to be precise when placing the magnets)? I guess you turned the rotor with a lathe?

Please excuse my stupid questions. I try to learn how to build a decent mechanical set up.

(I am already looking for an old VCR, because some builders used a rotor from a VCR for mounting a fast turning disk, e.g. in a Bedini motor.)

I have got this encoder plus disk
AVAGO TECHNOLOGIES - AEDB-9140-A14 - ENCODER,3CHANNEL, 500CPR, 5MM+DISK
Farnell Order Code 1161089
and want to use it to control a Muller Generator replication with a TI Launch Pad.

Your PIC schematics for driving a pair of drive coils helps me a lot.

Unfortunately I only got a rather small lathe which only allows to turn objects with a diameter of less than 75 mm (to small for 200 mm disks). But I can turn a good axis with a 5mm end for the encoder disk.

Greetings, Conrad

 Opps