Storing Cookies (See : http://ec.europa.eu/ipg/basics/legal/cookies/index_en.htm ) help us to bring you our services at overunity.com . If you use this website and our services you declare yourself okay with using cookies .More Infos here:
https://overunity.com/5553/privacy-policy/
If you do not agree with storing cookies, please LEAVE this website now. From the 25th of May 2018, every existing user has to accept the GDPR agreement at first login. If a user is unwilling to accept the GDPR, he should email us and request to erase his account. Many thanks for your understanding

User Menu

Custom Search

Author Topic: Muller Dynamo  (Read 4321583 times)

romerouk

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 366
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #285 on: May 08, 2011, 12:23:40 AM »
Hi RomeroUK

Were you successful in running the device overnight? Last time you said it ran 'looped' for 3.5 hrs. but was trying to run it longer until the neighbors complain? Can you update us please? Thanks.

cheers
chrisC
I had it running almost 5.5 hours without complaints from the neighbours

poynt99

  • TPU-Elite
  • Hero Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 3582
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #286 on: May 08, 2011, 12:28:44 AM »
I had it running almost 5.5 hours without complaints from the neighbours

That's great news Romero. ;)

How much load (presumably a bulb) did you have on it during this time?

.99

gauschor

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 529
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #287 on: May 08, 2011, 12:49:00 AM »
Ah I still got a question about the 2 Hall sensors (I didn't find the exact info the previous pages):

First of all I assume that the 8 small magnets (the ones pointing outwards on the side of the rotor) are in line with the 8 larger magnets. Is this correct?

Then the final question is: at which positions are the 2 Hall sensors placed: are both hall sensors just placed "before" each one of the driver coils? With "before" I mean in rotation direction before the driver coil)

romerouk

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 366
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #288 on: May 08, 2011, 12:52:30 AM »
That's great news Romero. ;)

How much load (presumably a bulb) did you have on it during this time?

.99
I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.
I tried to add the bulb before the dc convertor but there is more than 12 volts and the bulb will not last.
This DC converter is max 3amp but I am very happy about it plus the price was very low. Nice device and I think that all people should have one, it helps a lot in any other builds where people are trying self looping.I has even load protection and thermal protection too.I have tried for a second a 50w bulb as load and it switched off imediately.

toranarod

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 133
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #289 on: May 08, 2011, 12:53:19 AM »
Hi All,
I compiled a PDF file with all the important informations and graphics:

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=469

Regards, Stefan.

nice work on the pdf the more this is documented the harder it will be to cover it up. They will try if history is anything to go by.

romerouk

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 366
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #290 on: May 08, 2011, 01:04:24 AM »
Ah I still got a question about the 2 Hall sensors (I didn't find the exact info the previous pages):

First of all I assume that the 8 small magnets (the ones pointing outwards on the side of the rotor) are in line with the 8 larger magnets. Is this correct?

Then the final question is: at which positions are the 2 Hall sensors placed: are both hall sensors just placed "before" each one of the driver coils? With "before" I mean in rotation direction before the driver coil)
Let's clarify some points regarding the sensors:
not both of them are using the small magnets.I started originally with both using the small magnets to switch then I tried to move one to get max results.
The second one is facing the big magnets from the top.This one from the top is activated after the magnet passed, the other one on the side of the rotor is activated like 1mm after the magnet passed the center coil.
This is difficult to explain, testing yourself will get you there but do the testing separate not both of then at the same time.

toranarod

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 133
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #291 on: May 08, 2011, 01:09:11 AM »
I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.
I tried to add the bulb before the dc convertor but there is more than 12 volts and the bulb will not last.
This DC converter is max 3amp but I am very happy about it plus the price was very low. Nice device and I think that all people should have one, it helps a lot in any other builds where people are trying self looping.I has even load protection and thermal protection too.I have tried for a second a 50w bulb as load and it switched off imediately.

what is type is your DC to DC converter

this is what I have

bolt

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 921
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #292 on: May 08, 2011, 01:10:08 AM »
If you want to make a powerful version consider carefully using a 3 phase motor into RV mode. When prepared properly degreased bearings and no fan etc RV will turn a very large rotor with as  little as 10 watts.  The motor also has your center bearing and the motor flange can be used to bolt directly the stator head.  See Kones construction details as he has been making these for well over a decade. This makes construction much faster, cheaper and stronger.

 As Romero stated the pulse driving of this generator is not important at all. That is only a method to turn the rotor.  So no need to worry about the hall devices and timing to drive it. Just rotate the damn thing! But make sure you use like >95% efficient motor.

Its only the construction and detail to the generator CORES and MAGNETS which provides the OU.  Driven by RV and using 2 inch neo magnets and 2 inch cores these can produce typical 25 volts at about 2 amp on 3000 rpm rotor each coil.  BUT when peak sine shorted these cores can produce 250/300 V each around 500mA = 125 watts per coil.  All 11 coils can now be generator coils and the o/p can be dumped into 2 off 750 Watt Computer power supplies to provide OU 1KW at 12v DC 85 amps! or 24v at 40 amps and use a battery charge controller.

Although these can run on DC they work even better HF AC or take out the first FWBR and mains filter and connect direct to cap bank for DC.

 These can charge deep cycle batteries and inverter is used to convert 12v to 240 to run the RV 3 phase motor. Now you have 1kw average with peak handling only limited by your inverter and battery bank size.  This is competitive to huge solar systems or wind power neither of which is available 24/7. In this instance power is 24/7 and the total system cost could easy be 1/10th of any other pre-existing technology watt for watt.

DreamThinkBuild

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 574
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #293 on: May 08, 2011, 01:26:40 AM »
Hi Romero, Bolt,

To ALL:
This generator can be driven by many other circuits or from an external motor connected to the shaft.Don't concentrate too much on the circuit used to drive the coils, that is simple.

Quote from: bolt
As Romero stated the pulse driving of this generator is not important at all. That is only a method to turn the rotor. Its only the construction and detail to the generator CORES and MAGNETS which provides the OU.

This means that coil and magnet spacing are the key and not the switching circuit? Ok, so if we drive the rotor with a <5Watt DC motor we should be able to self run the motor without the drive coils. That would simplify the design greatly.

Thanks again for all your time and input.

bolt

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 921
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #294 on: May 08, 2011, 01:40:08 AM »
A standard DC brushed motor is CRAP they are only about 60% efficient.  If you want to loop first you must make sure you minimise ALL losses. This is always the first step. Remember you got to get a COP>2 PLUS losses to loop. If you go cheap on this and try  a make a toy version using 6v model motor and bit of ply wood for the rotor it will not work i guarantee it! Its the very reason for so many bedini failures is due to very bad construction.

The bigger and stronger you make this thing the better it works. That why i gave you the heads up on using 3 phase mains induction motor and RotoVertor it.  Most efficient  off the shelf motor in the world often found in the trash or cheap off ebay.

gauschor

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 529
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #295 on: May 08, 2011, 02:04:21 AM »
Edit: hmmm...must be considered

bolt

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 921
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #296 on: May 08, 2011, 02:24:23 AM »
Yes first there is an odd number of coils to magnets this helps prevent no load cogging as each field is overlapped. But under load it begins to bog down again UNLESS the cores are Re-gauged.  By adding another magnet to the back side of each coil the coil once pulsed becomes latched in north or south pole state. Lets say the coil is latching South it approaches a South facing magnet and tries to repel against the coil. Normally the greater the current from the last magnet pass the greater the latching as it approaches a new magnet so the lugging increases.  The Re-gauging RESETS the coil by forcing back the flux in the opposite direction but it actually over shoots! This creates a north biased coil attracted fast to a south pole magnet and provides free acceleration energy into the system.

The solid state version of this is called ....wait for it = MAGNACOASTER. :) This is why magnacoaster has 5 neos one end and one the other with a measured tuned GAP. Yes its OU.

More abrupt the process is Bloch wall modulation where the return or re-gauging bias is an over shoot of energy from the back end magnet.

romerouk

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 366
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #297 on: May 08, 2011, 02:38:05 AM »
Yes first there is an odd number of coils to magnets this helps prevent no load cogging as each field is overlapped. But under load it begins to bog down again UNLESS the cores are Re-gauged.  By adding another magnet to the back side of each coil the coil once pulsed becomes latched in north or south pole state. Lets say the coil is latching South it approaches a South facing magnet and tries to repel against the coil. Normally the greater the current from the last magnet pass the greater the latching as it approaches a new magnet so the lugging increases.  The Re-gauging RESETS the coil by forcing back the flux in the opposite direction but it actually over shoots! This creates a north biased coil attracted fast to a south pole magnet and provides free acceleration energy into the system.

The solid state version of this is called ....wait for it = MAGNACOASTER. :) This is why magnacoaster has 5 neos one end and one the other with a measured tuned GAP. Yes its OU.

More abrupt the process is Bloch wall modulation where the return or re-gauging bias is an over shoot of energy from the back end magnet.
:) the magnets on top of the coils ideea came from Magnacoasters, I am working on that too but nothing like OU there yet. I am using the computer to generate the pulses.I do believe that Magnacoasters is genuine.
The rotovertor versions I tried about one year ago had about 33w minimum, in my case nothing like 10w or so but I did not oped the bearings to clean them.

romerouk

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 366
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #298 on: May 08, 2011, 02:44:06 AM »
I had an ideea and went back to the generator.
I was adding small ferrite magnets 20mm diam/0.5mm thick on top of the existing coils and the input now is reduced to 0.78amp and the speed is increased a bit.
I will play a bit more tommorow.

bolt

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 921
Re: Muller Dynamo
« Reply #299 on: May 08, 2011, 02:53:13 AM »
:) the magnets on top of the coils ideea came from Magnacoasters, I am working on that too but nothing like OU there yet. I am using the computer to generate the pulses.I do believe that Magnacoasters is genuine.
The rotovertor versions I tried about one year ago had about 33w minimum, in my case nothing like 10w or so but I did not oped the bearings to clean them.

Well i made a good guess then (educated one) LOL  Of course solid state is the goal and you will get there very soon. I think everyone has to go through the learning curve of OU machines first then later solid state.  Like you i KNOW magnacoaster is real and you have just proven it beyond any doubt with your generator. It just opens a new can of worms in controlling the HUGE amount of OU power. Plenty of burnt coils and blown fets.

Well when you make your big machine go get that old RV out the shed take off the fan, clean the bearings in petrol and  WD40 and just add one drop of sewing machine oil. It should spin by hand for 40 seconds very easy. Now you got a very efficient motor that can run on 10 watts and use ALL the coils as genheads. A small 250w inverter will run the RV motor easy and just retune the run cap to match the rotor at full rpm and load.

BTW you should get some sleep its 2 am:)