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Mechanical free energy devices => mechanic => Topic started by: albert on December 08, 2007, 11:08:57 AM

Title: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 08, 2007, 11:08:57 AM
Hello,
I would like to introduce my 'Bedini replication here, it is up and running since July.

I use a bike wheel and 16 magnets. Started out according to specs with one coil and I have now upgraded to 5 coils.
(http://)

The most important thing I have found is that the SSG works much better at 24 to 36 Volts. Currently I use 3 batteries 12 V 7 AH on each side of the circuit. This can be done without changing the circuit if you use the 3055 transistor. The trigger pot must be a wire wound one, a normal pot will burn up. Due to the limitations of the wheel I can not run the machine at 1 pulse per magnet. At 36-38 Volts the current is 350 to 400 mA at a speed of 200 rpm.
Most interesting: This machine will also produce a lot of HHO gas when it is run with a water electrolysis cell. the current then drops to 200 mA. There is definitely a connection between the bedini pulse and the Stan Meyer water splitter.

If I can find out how to insert a picture into the text I will show you more specific images.

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany pictures
Post by: albert on December 08, 2007, 11:19:22 AM
Ok the pics seem to work so I 'll show a coil in closeup. The wires were stranded on a special machine. Coil former is pvc drain tube- the exterior plates are plexiglass and the whole stuff is glued with acrylic to pvc glue. Very solid bond but has to cure overnight.
Coil cores are soft iron wire, could not find the welding rods here.
(http://)

Wire sizes are 0.8 mm for the power wire and 0.6 mm for the trigger.
The wheel will run at 200 to 220 rpm. I tested the strength.... ::) and the wheel disintegrated at 350 rpm so that is limiting the performance..... ;D
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany pics03
Post by: albert on December 08, 2007, 11:22:53 AM
The wire "litzing" machine is spun with a hand drill that's on a rheostat so it will run slowly. The three wires run thru a teflon disc and are slowly pulled out and wound onto a reel. Like a spinning wheel of old.

(http://)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany pix 04
Post by: albert on December 08, 2007, 11:26:09 AM
The magnets are glued to the wheel but not just on the rim. I made small wooden blocks to conform to the inside of the rim and with a flat surface to hold the magnets. the tape around the wheel seen so often is not very good because if a magnet comes off it will impact the coil nonetheless. I use rubber bands to secure the magnets. This way if a magnet comes off the glue it will make a loud knocking sound. that is warning enough to stop the machine.

(http://)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany more pics
Post by: albert on December 08, 2007, 11:30:06 AM
magnets and rubber straps (bike air chamber) to hold em in.
(http://)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 08, 2007, 11:33:21 AM
For the winding of the final coils I made another jig with a mechanical counter to count the turns. I found that I could not get a decent winding without a layer of tape between each layer of wire. Each coil holds about 300 feet of wire, the impedance is 1.6 Ohms on the power wires.

I can charge a 100 Amp/hour gel cel type battery that was given to me in a "dead" state (8.5 Volts) and could not hold a charge. Now it can be charged to 15 volts and will run a car headlight bulb. For the primary i sometimes use NiCad cells leftover from my model helicopter. (a 30 cell battery at 40 volts). That battery was completely dead before I used the bedini on it.

Next step is a metallic wheel made on a lathe and milled with slots to hold the magnets.

This is definitely worth building, I have learned a lot in the last 6 months.
(http://)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: bourne on December 08, 2007, 03:03:16 PM
Hi albert

Great looking machine!

Nice pictures as well, thank you for sharing them.

I have only 3 weeks of experience with my single bifilar coil Bedini machine. So it is good to see what can be accomplished in 6 months.

You say in one of your posts that using tape to secure the magnets is not a good idea, and in your first post you mention that the wheel disintegrated at 350 rpm :o

I found in my local hardware shop some "Heavy Duty Fibreglass Reinforced Strapping Tape"

This tape is the business !

I have used it on my wheel, and with my notched out wheel, superglue and this reinforced tape it feels completely solid. I did pull the tape very tight, so as to get flat spots between the magnets.

I am sure, if you use this tape you can let your machine spin up faster without fear of projectiles, which should improve your charging times while keeping your house free of flying magnets ! !

I hope this helps

bourne
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Rosphere on December 08, 2007, 03:56:22 PM
(http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3725.0;attach=15174;image)
This is definitely worth building, I have learned a lot in the last 6 months.

Thank you for sharing your work with pictures.  I think that a Bedini replication is in my near future.

@bourne, thank you for sharing your taping tip as well.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hansvonlieven on December 08, 2007, 11:07:17 PM
Good work Albert and Bourne, keep us posted and thank you for sharing.

Hans von Lieven
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 10, 2007, 08:27:56 PM
Thanks to all of you for your kind reply.

I would like to know if anyone has experience with swapping of batteries on these systems. I know it is not supposed to work but Mr Bedini must be doing it on the big machine he has built or it would be worthless.
I think a lot about the radiant energy phenomenon and the experiments seen in bedini's ENERGY FROM THE VACUUM DVD seem to indicate that it is really a RF phenomenon. The radiant spikes, when expanded on the scope, are really very fast oscillations. That is why there is a skin effect where the energy can leave the conductor. See the demonstration where Mr Bedini lights a small neon bulb between ground and the plastic cover of a battery under charge.
To my laymans view it seems that the famous bi-filar coil can become a low impedance tesla transformer. Because the number of windings on primary and secondary coils is identical, there is no extremely high voltage...Could this be a reasonable theory? Anyway this still does not explain the battery charging effect.
 The thing does work as indicated -unlike some other internet-based projects I have seen- and every day I work around it seems to uncover more interesting questions.....I cannot see more energy out than in yet though.

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: TheOne on December 10, 2007, 11:42:37 PM
. I know it is not supposed to work but Mr Bedini must be doing it on the big machine he has built or it would be worthless.

One of the first Bedini device switch between batteries, in the ENERGY FROM THE VACUUM DVD, he show the device, the main rotor move another one and this other rotor is the mecanical switch used to switch the batteries, the batteries switch on each 1.5 secs prox.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on December 11, 2007, 02:20:30 AM
Hi Albert. Nice work! good to see someone else replicating and testing. Heres some pics of some recent test machines I have built. I havnt been able to do many tests yet as I am waiting to get some decent batteries. The window motor I converted to the Bedini cole circuit and looks promising. I have to build a timing wheel to switch between running and discharging back into the primary. In regards to swapping batteries, it is not recommended to swap the charged battery to the front end on the simple ssg circuit. That circuit was designed to teach the basic principles. It is far more beneficial to use the charged battery on another load to see the benefits. What you will want to replicate is the cdpulser setup, (capacitive discharge) and it can be found in a few places on the web. There are different versions, but they all do basically the same thing. The simplest has a timing wheel that dumps the energy stored in the capacitor into the charging bank at a set rate. There is also a 555 timer circuit designed to automatically do this.

Look forward to seeing some more of your work!

P.S. I made my coils identically to yours! PVC sheath, acrylic top/bottom, tie wire glued as a core. I had to twist all my wire by hand however, that was not fun ;D
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 11, 2007, 12:19:11 PM
Hi Ren,

you make beautiful machines! I want to hide mine inthe cellar when I see them.....but anyway this first one is just a test bed.

GLUE question to everybody:  My aluminum rotor has arrived. It has 6 milled slots to hold the magnets, two stacked in a row per slot. For me and others building the same device here in Munich, the big question now is the glue to hold the magnets in place. As this thing should go to speeds around 3000 rpm, there is no room for error here. Any idea would be appreciated. Unfortunately the magnets have quite a tolerance so I had to file out the slots to fit them in. This prevents me from doing what I originally wanted to do, holding the magnets in by pressure. I had planned to heat the rotor, put the magnets in the deepfreeze for a while and fit them in under pressure.
I plan to try the capacitor setup with this new rotor. The hub turns on this one and the stub can be used to run the mechanical switch.
The idea to switch the batteries every few seconds is also interesting. Definitely worth trying.

Looking forward to see more of your work! Does the window coil generate enough current to charge a battery? Usually they deliver some volts but the current is extremely weak....

Here's another view of a coil set into the machine.
(http://)


Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: bourne on December 11, 2007, 08:06:59 PM
Hi albert

About the 'swapping batteries', here is my take on the matter;

When Mr Bedini shows the large machine in the DVD you see 2 sets of very large cells in the main workshop area with the machine on a bench in a smaller room. Now, I have presumed that the batteries driving the large machine are on the shelf 'below' the large machine. The two sets out in the workshop are swapped between; one set under load (lighting the lights in his workshop) and one set being charged (cylinder cells in the DVD)
After watching the DVD several times I now think the Bedini machine is a "power magnifier". Swap 2 sets of batteries between charge and load. While the same is happening with the 'supply batteries', one of the pair driving the large machine while the second one gets charged by a smaller machine which has it's own pair of supply batteries which again could be charged with an even smaller machine.. and so on until all you need to charge your smallest machine is a single solar panel

Does that make sense? That's how I would do it. Either that or use the available shaft power to charge the second supply battery conventionally.

I think the swapping front to back will only give you the shaft power as spare. Swapping 2 batteries between charge and load will give you use of the battery power and the shaft power.
It all depends how much charge you can get out of the coils.

I only have a single bifilar coil to work with at the moment so I can't say if another coil (trifilar) means half the charge time. I do hope so.

As for the glue mentioned in your last post.... Don't know ! My max RPM has only been 230rpm so the superglue is still holding solid. An Epoxy type glue would be my first thought but I would have to see the spec sheets on its performance.
I remember somewhere in the Yahoo groups monopole forum, somebody posted some calculations of an 8oz magnet coming off a 20cm diameter rotor spinning at 10,000rpm.

Conclusion..... Do not be in the same room!!

If I remember correctly it was something like 3 times the joules of a colt 45 shot at close range !! :o

You also mention the tolerance of the magnets. I had the same thing, but fortunately I had to buy a minimum of 50 so I just picked the best 32.
Have you thought about weight distribution? do all your magnets weigh the same if they are different sizes? I think that will make a big difference at 3000 rpm.

As for switching batteries every 1.5 seconds see below.

. I know it is not supposed to work but Mr Bedini must be doing it on the big machine he has built or it would be worthless.

One of the first Bedini device switch between batteries, in the ENERGY FROM THE VACUUM DVD, he show the device, the main rotor move another one and this other rotor is the mecanical switch used to switch the batteries, the batteries switch on each 1.5 secs prox.


Hi The One, I am sure you are wrong. that machine is the capacitor dump machine. It is constantly charging the large capacitor which is then dumped into the charging battery every 1.5 seconds. Separate from its supply batteries. Using the commutator as shown in J Bedini's 1984 book (reprinted in Tom Beardens "free energy generation")
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hansvonlieven on December 11, 2007, 09:17:29 PM
Hi Ren,

you make beautiful machines! I want to hide mine inthe cellar when I see them.....but anyway this first one is just a test bed.

GLUE question to everybody:  My aluminum rotor has arrived. It has 6 milled slots to hold the magnets, two stacked in a row per slot. For me and others building the same device here in Munich, the big question now is the glue to hold the magnets in place. As this thing should go to speeds around 3000 rpm, there is no room for error here. Any idea would be appreciated. Unfortunately the magnets have quite a tolerance so I had to file out the slots to fit them in. This prevents me from doing what I originally wanted to do, holding the magnets in by pressure. I had planned to heat the rotor, put the magnets in the deepfreeze for a while and fit them in under pressure.
I plan to try the capacitor setup with this new rotor. The hub turns on this one and the stub can be used to run the mechanical switch.
The idea to switch the batteries every few seconds is also interesting. Definitely worth trying.

Looking forward to see more of your work! Does the window coil generate enough current to charge a battery? Usually they deliver some volts but the current is extremely weak....

Here's another view of a coil set into the machine.
(http://)


Albert

G'day Albert,

As far as the glue is concerned I recommend a product known as Sikaflex. It is available in boating stores and marinas and is unbelievably strong while having an enormous amount of flex. It is akin to a silicone compound commonly used to glue glass but much stronger. If that does not hold it nothing else will. It is probably marketed in countries other than Australia under a different name. The stuff sticks to just about anything.

Her is a local link to their product range. I recommend the single component compound. Application is with a standard caulking gun.

http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/marine_products.htm

I use the stuff extensively where strength and flexibility is paramount. It is a stiff paste and has excellent padding properties, something you need by the sound of it.

If you have further questions drop me a note.

Hans von Lieven
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on December 11, 2007, 10:58:24 PM
Thanks Albert. I think your machines are an excellent example of neat tidy work! Id be proud of em! Especially your coils, there is definately some artistic flair in their construction. None of my first replications looked anything like I have now. Your coils remind me of Erwins work, which you might find interesting, theres heaps of good info here. http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html

In regards to the window motor, it did indeed charge from the ssg circuit. An interesting thing I noticed was a test I did with a 9 volt battery that was already flat. It read 7.89 volts when I started. Drawing 120ma it ran the window motor for nearly five hours. There was one sweet spot I found on the pot that slowed the voltage dropping of the battery significantly, but it wasnt the spot of lowest amp draw? The battery ran all the way down to 2.5 volts when it stopped. After a two minute rest it ran again for 20 min.Remember that all these machines are charging with very little current Albert, I have come to the belief that only a bare minimum of current is needed under the right conditions despite what conventional science teaches.   

Hans is on the money with sikaflex, I have also had good results with aryldite, which is a two parts epoxy paste. I have glued neo magnets onto this speed tester http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0I2HtTu2Cs and wound it out on 24 volts to speeds I can only guess, but I was scared :-[ :-X :-\. I stopped the video prematurely, it was only about 2/3 of its full pace. Glue seems to work well, although the magnets are sandwiched as well. If your magnets fit neatly top to bottom you might also consider gluing sandwich style as this means the only edge that doesnt have glue is the face interacting with the coil.

Bourne you are right about the cap dump. It doesnt switch batteries, it only dumps into the charge bank. As far as I know none of the bedini machines swap between run and charge that quickly, although I could be wrong. The slight exception is his designs that backpop the primary, which in a way is charging both banks.

Keep up the good work guys!
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: TheOne on December 11, 2007, 11:16:33 PM
Quote
Hi The One, I am sure you are wrong. that machine is the capacitor dump machine. It is constantly charging the large capacitor which is then dumped into the charging battery every 1.5 seconds. Separate from its supply batteries. Using the commutator as shown in J Bedini's 1984 book (reprinted in Tom Beardens "free energy generation")

Ah thanks for the clarification :)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 12, 2007, 11:49:45 AM
Thanks to all of you for the good hints on the glue! I will see if I can find the sikaFlex glue over here.
Epoxy glue is also a strong possibility.

As you write, I will be more than respectful when running the smaller rotor. The energy stored in such a device is enormous. but it won't spin at 10.000 rpm. Btw, the initial reason for building the bike wheel variant was to keep rotor rpm low. The smaller rotors are scary just with one coil running them.But on the multi coil setups you need speed.
Thanks, too for the things you say about battery swapping. I think there is something to the idea of the "power magnifier". After all, Bedini runs the big machine on 10 A @ 24 volts= 240 Watts and he can charge a battery bank to drain 2.4 kilowatts off it.
Probably he should demonstrate this with a tiny li-Po battery on the primary, or a NiCad battery -anything that will give him 10 amps at 24 volts for some minutes. If he can really replace the energy taken off with the lamps and the inverter, then it`s a clear proof.
You are absolutely right about the coils I made. i took a VERY close look at Erwin Badertscher's pages on the Bedini machine. Lots of really good info here, every layman can build the machine following his instructions.
The magnets are a material that has been sintered- baked with a great deal of heat-as far as I understand it. So there will be tolerances.

Another strange thing happens when you use different voltages on the input and output batteries. I ran the machine the other day with a Nicad battery at 36 volts on the input, charging a big 12 Volt "NATO cube" (100 amp hours ) on the secondary. Input current was 200 mA
and OUTPUT was 400 mA!
Measured with the same type of analog meter on both sides.
what the heck...? this is not a transformer or is it???

we are going to test the in-and output with a special meter soon. It basically uses a wire shunt that will heat. This rise in temperature is then transduced into a voltage. This way you can measure even the strange pulses in and out of the motor. The meter integrates the pulses and only the really effective power shows.
One thing one tends to forget is that the input battery also gets a heavy pulse DISCHARGE. Unless you hook some big caps to it to smooth the input current it's just as much of a pulse as the output. The h-wave minus the spike. Perhaps that might be the reason why a battery charged with the radiant energy will not work as a driving battery. I will check this out.
The other idea, although it comes from a misunderstanding, might also be interesting. Set up a system that swaps the batteries every 30 seconds or so. What will happen? I think I'll come up with some manual switches after Christmas....

Thank you again - it's great talking to you ! The internet is wonderful.

albert


Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 12, 2007, 12:03:51 PM
Hello Mr von Lieven,

thanks for the hint to sikaFlex. I found a german page for them but I would need the exact number and type of the glue you use. they have everything from silicon like stuff to polyurethane glue.

thanks!

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on December 12, 2007, 08:20:07 PM
In regards to your discoveries on larger output than input Albert I can only think this. Bedini has said many times that the monopole motor is like a magnetic pump for aether (insert term you prefer) and that the radiant energy behaves like a gas under pressure. Perhaps with the higher voltage potential you are using on the front end the pressure increases on the back end as you are trying to stuff it into a lower potential. What sort of success have you had in charging Albert? Have you charged multiple batteries off one the same size. Or large (amp hours) batteries, what sort of voltage do you get them too? Also, I wasnt sure if you already posted, but how many wires on your coils, it looks like trifilar from the winding pic?

I had a similar idea about the cap on the front end of the ssg Albert. I have read that you can use the back end batteries on the front end of the ssg, except for it to work well you must run them through an inverter and then step down transformer. I have also read that the capacitor is the solution for converting negative energy to positive energy, thus the ability to switch batteries from front to back on the cap pulser setup.  IF the capacitor is a converter of sorts (and this makes sense regarding the inverter + stepdown transformer) then can you simply place a large cap on the front end of the ssg to allow battery swapping? After all most inverters have a large capacitor inside them. I wonder if it is that easy.....I need to hit the lotto so I can go crazy at the electronic store...;) :D

On a side note, I am getting great results akin to my larger ceramic ssg, with a tiny four coil (all linked in series) air core bedini/cole circuit. it has 300ma input and is charging just as well (as far as I can tell with these batteries) as the trifilar monopole. Another interesting thing I noted was the ability to send voltage back to the primary via bridge rectifier. I basically did this circuit setup (different transistors and resistor values) and used a microswitch to manually swap between  powering the coils and sending feedback to the bridge. After ten minutes of sitting there clicking away at a steady rate battery voltage had not only remained level, but increased by .04 or so. A dvm says there is about 14v at the bridge while running the coils, so perhaps there is some form of backpopping going on, only longer tests will tell, and  an automated timing wheel or relay of sorts to look after the switching. I am still trying to come to a better understanding of the scr, as this is all that is stopping me from the next step up. I have struggled to gain any significant information on it. I basically need a part number and a clear schematic to test it out with fwbr+cap+scr as stated on Erwins diagram. So many things to learn!

Ive rambled on a bit sorry guys, bored here and need to voice my ideas. Albert, did you check out the link Hans left in his post to sika? Perhaps it has a part number on it. I reckon aryldite will do the trick, there hasnt been anything Ive used it for that comes apart. Perhaps it is a good idea to roughen up the rotors inserts a little bit too to aid in the bonding process.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hansvonlieven on December 12, 2007, 09:01:24 PM
G'day all,

The Skaflex I routinely use is:

Sikaflex Polyurethane sealing compound. Cures by reaction with atmospheric moisture to form a durable elastomer. One part, sandable & paintable. Resists weathering, shock absorbing, UV resistant, dampens vibration. Use for sealing, joint filling, insulating, bonding timber panels. Low sag. Dries tack free in one hour (at 23?C), a 3mm thick seam fully cures in 24 hours. Elastic, stretches to 400% before breaking.

   Sikaflex-291 Highest structural strength.


This is straight from the catalogue. One of the reasons I suggest Sikaflex instead of Araldite or another epoxy glue is that you can undo the bond if you have made a mistake or if you want to change something without damaging your components. Since it behaves similar to a silicone compound you can cut it with  a razor blade and remove the component without too much trouble.

Hans von Lieven
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 13, 2007, 08:22:30 PM
Thanks, Mr von Lieven- are you a German?
I will look into the sikaflex compound as soon as possible!

Ren,

well, the gas theory. I think it only works up to a point. I don't think it should be interpreted literally. the skin effect certainly makes the charge behave like a gas in some instances. Otherwise we should be switching to a bellows system instead of messing around with coils.? ;D

charging batteries: I have tried to charge different kinds of batteries with the SSG. At the moment I have a big 100 amp hour gel cell, NATO CUBE, that was brought to me in a dead state. I could bring this to the point where it can power a 40 Watt car headlight again. but it's not like new, I have had only a few cycles on it.
My 12 Volt 7 aH gel cells are used in a variety of configurations. I use them in series 3 in/ 3 out for the bat swapping tests. There are marked differences between battery brands.
I have recently tried to charge all six of them, v3 and 3 in parallel, and that works, too.
I use a small power supply to charge single gel cells overnight and can bring them up to 17, 18 volts. the Nato cube will go to 15 volts. The smaller bats definitely start to "cold boil". A strange effect. The battery stays stone cold, yet it sizzles like a wiener schnitzel in the pan... :P
I also wonder where the hydrogen gas goes since there is no pressure on the sealed bats. No safety valves opening, bulging or the like.
Try this with a normal charger and the bat will blow up on you and get hot.
I tried the capacitor pulse method but could not get it to work for purely technical reasons so far. Even a 220 volt relay will stick or the contacts will fuse because of the current.
I want to try a purely mechanical switch.
My coils are all trifilar. 0.8 mm wire for the power, 0.6 mm for the trig.
I made so much of the litz wire, I had to use it up making several identical coils. The new machine will have 5 wire type coils.

The cap on the front end: This is definitely something I will try. At the moment, I'm not at home but at work until Christmas. So experimenting is off for the moment....

I think the idea of just sending back some voltage to the primary won't work ...at least not for long. From what I have read in the other forums, this seems to damage the batteries in the long run, as they don't seem to like being switched over from charge to discharge.

I'll definitely roughen the surfaces to be glued on the rotor. On the magnets it wont work. They are too damn hard.
something seems to be wrong with the website here, I tried twice to type this but got thrown out when I posted it. Probably some overload!

good night!

albert

Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hansvonlieven on December 13, 2007, 09:07:24 PM
Quote
Thanks, Mr von Lieven- are you a German?
I will look into the sikaflex compound as soon as possible!

Yes Albert I am, though I live in Australia. Incidentally, please call me Hans, I don't like formality.

Hans
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on December 14, 2007, 08:50:08 AM
Quote
Thanks, Mr von Lieven- are you a German?
I will look into the sikaflex compound as soon as possible!

Yes Albert I am, though I live in Australia. Incidentally, please call me Hans, I don't like formality.

Hans


He has to be an Aussie! None of us 'ere like formalitiy.

Albert, I must point out that I havnt tried the cap at the front of the system yet. I only just thought of it the other day. It could possibly even lower the amp draw from the primary if it is matched in size correctly. Whether it will allow battery swapping is another question. Can I ask if you have tried charging one to three (or four or five...)on the charger? As in one 12v 7ah charging 3 12v 7ah? I thought of another way you could continue the cycle if this was the case. You could use your four or five charged batteries to run an inverter and charge your run battery conventionally. You'd have to match you c20's and such but it is possible with the right setup I guess. Of course this means the wheel isnt turning  all the time, but every time it does its basically turning for free :).

 I am still looking to master this cap pulser setup and I am having trouble with the scr. If anyone out there can offer any advice about the scr, as in function, part number and wiring, I would be greatly appreciative.

Ordered 4 12v 7.2ah batteries and a trickle charger yesterday. There arriving on Monday, which coincidently is my B'day! Yay! I'll probably be a grinch this Christmas, locked away in the lab. Lol

Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on December 14, 2007, 08:54:13 AM
By the way Hans, if that avatar is a pic of you, you're the spitting image of my mates dad! I cant help but apply his attributes to you! (You're not a VB drinker are you, as this would be too freaky!) :D
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: pese on December 14, 2007, 09:16:50 AM
I use a small power supply to charge single gel cells overnight and can bring them up to 17, 18 volts. the Nato cube will go to 15 volts. albert



This Batteries must no be loaded higher than 14,4 volts.

Normal way  they will then beginn to boiling .
Dangerous and you damage the devices.

If the battery is loaded to 14,4 . than they ist 100% loaded .
You must stop the loading current . or reduce to an holding charge from
a few milliamps only.

Gustav Peset


 
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on December 14, 2007, 09:51:56 AM
gustav, Albert isnt using a conventional method to charge this battery to that voltage. An estimate of the amps flowing into his batteries would be in the milliamps, perhaps even as low as 50ma. His battery will remain dead cold, hence the term cold boiling and You'll probably find it doesnt cause the damage you would expect from a conventional charger loading it this high. Bedinis unique method of recharging the battery is unexplainable by conventional science, and experimenters often find an increase in capacity and powering times after several cycles. So his 7 amp hour battery might behave like a 10 amp hour.

I am not saying that its necessarily a good thing to charge the battery to these levels, but the fact remains if it was a conventional charger Albert would be soaking acid up all day by now.

Perhaps you already know all of this and you are still issuing your warning, which is fair enough I guess.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hansvonlieven on December 14, 2007, 10:11:12 AM
By the way Hans, if that avatar is a pic of you, you're the spitting image of my mates dad! I cant help but apply his attributes to you! (You're not a VB drinker are you, as this would be too freaky!) :D

The picture is really me and yes, I have got a VB in front of me right now :-)

Hans
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on December 15, 2007, 02:48:44 AM
GOLD :D
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: helmut on December 16, 2007, 02:35:35 AM
Hello Albert

I had also startet a Replikation.It is to try several Coil Setups
.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 16, 2007, 03:04:27 PM
Hello friends,

I would like to mention an amazing site with scans of old electricity books. I am trying to go back to the source to get a better understanding of what we are dealing with in the Bedini and other motors.

http://www.archive.org/details/americana

If you put in a search for "induction coils" or "wireless" you will find old books on electromagnetic induction, the famous R?hmkorff coil and the like. Lots of drawings and great information to find there. Perfect scans, and you can look thru the books before downloading them when you click on the preview on the left side of the page.

My own interest in this field of high voltages started when my father bought a "medical" device in the 70s that turned out to be a Tesla transformer. I was greatly intrigued by the effect of lamps lighting in my hands and so on.

In 1992 I had the chance of a lifetime to find an ORIGINAL R?hmkorff machine on a flea market in Bordeaux, France. The machine looks exactly like the R?hmkorff Conrad roentgen used when he discovered the x rays. We have it here at the "DEUTSCHES MUSEUM" in Munich. The device still works but I use it only rarely because it is in  rather delicate shape. Paid 250 French Francs for it, about 70 to 80 dollars of today. the guys did not know what the thing was.

So this is why I always try to put myself into the mind of an engineer at Tesla's time. No semiconductors, no diodes, no vacuum tubes. Only spark induction machines, batteries very different from todays elements and eventually dynamo generators for the higher power.
When all the transistors were shorted once on my Bedini, I ran it with a mechanical interruptor made from two vibrating saw blades. It works just as well but most of  the radiant went up into the spark of the interruptor.
when I got back my new transistors I gave up on the mechanical switch because it produces lots of RF noise. But its an interesting thing to try.

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 16, 2007, 06:17:57 PM
Hello Ren,

I had to get the other isssue out of the way first, so now I'll try to answer your question.
Charging several bats with one 12 V/7aH bat in front does not work with my setup because I will exceed the c/20 discharge rate of the battery. At 12 Volts the system will draw up to 500 mA when I run it at its usual speed of 200 rpm.
By the way: Do you think the "sweet spot" is only when there is one pulse per magnet? I get anything from 3 to 10-15 pulses per magnet, depending on the voltage at the input. The scope shot shows the trigger signal with the pot turned back.
(http://)
BTW are you in Australia, too? I think Australia is Joe Cell country. I would really see one of these things working....

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Thaelin on December 18, 2007, 06:55:41 PM
   Off topic but just have to ask. What is a VB? Suspect its a beer right? I thought you mates drank Fosters. I like Wild Turkey 101proof chassed with a budwieser. Thats if I really want to tank it on.

thaelin
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hansvonlieven on December 19, 2007, 12:54:06 AM
@Thaelin,

VB or Victoria Bitter is a beer made by Carlton United Breweries, the makers of Fosters.

No-one drinks Fosters anymore in Australia, they make it now only for export. VB is better but doesn't travel as well.

Hans von Lieven
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zaydana on December 19, 2007, 06:57:53 AM
VB is probably the worst beer sold here in Australia. As hans said, Fosters is only for export - nobody drinks it. Most places don't even sell it.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 19, 2007, 11:26:28 AM
OK now I know what beer to drink when I go to Australia one day....perhaps you can come to Bavaria, our country is BEER HEAVEN!

albert ;D

PS: P'raps we could go back to Beardini now???
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Thaelin on December 19, 2007, 02:47:07 PM
   OK OK, back to my budweiser oh I mean bedini.  ;D

   Here is a tid bit just handed up by otto, PCM or pulsed current multiplier. Just the reverse of the voltage tripler type of circuit.
I have had to use transformers to to that with and they dont like bedini systems. That should be much better and not so hard
on the battery in the long run for charging quality. Will see

thaelin
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: woidbam on December 19, 2007, 02:54:54 PM
OK now I know what beer to drink when I go to Australia one day....perhaps you can come to Bavaria, our country is BEER HEAVEN!

Hallo albert,

Du m?sstest aber noch erw?hnen, dass es bald ein rauchfreier Bierhimmel sein wird  :D

albert, k?nntest Du nicht einen deutschsprachigen Thread aufmachen?
Es gibt doch schon so viele englischsprachige Bediniseiten.
Da w?re es schon toll, wenn Du deine Erfahrungen auch in deutscher Sprache r?berbringen k?nntest.
Da sind Dir bestimmt viele Leute dankbar.

Danke
woidbam
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 19, 2007, 04:23:49 PM
Hallo woidbam,

ich mach gern einen deutschsprachigen thread auf, aber der manchmal recht grobe Umgangston und die bl?den pers?nlichen Streitereien im deutschen forum gehen mir auf die Nerven. Die englischen threads scheinen mir sachlicher zu sein, wenns nicht gerade ums Bier geht....

(translation for english speaking guys: someone asked me to open up the same thread in german. I agreed but said the sometimes rude manners and fighting in the german threads turn me off. english spoken threads seem to be more neutral, if they are not discussing beer...)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on December 22, 2007, 01:23:44 PM
Aluminium rotor with slots for magnets.....

signing off for the holidays, I want to wish all of you a merry Christmas!

albert

(http://)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: helmut on December 22, 2007, 04:37:58 PM
Aluminium rotor with slots for magnets.....

signing off for the holidays, I want to wish all of you a merry Christmas!

albert

(http://)
Nice Holydays for you and everybody else as well
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on December 22, 2007, 09:32:37 PM
Nice rotor albert, make sure that support pillar isnt aluminum though. Its got to have a  bit of weight in it huh?

I am a bit dissapointed with my trifilar litzed coil performance. It is taking forever to charge my 7 amp hour batts. For comparison I have wired up a much smaller bifilar coil, about a quarter of the size in turns and I made a rotor from a harddrive with some tiny magnets. It draws a little more than expected around 190ma, but it is charging up 10 times faster than my trifilar. I am wondering if I should not have litzed my trifilar, either that or the magnets are too powerful/big or mismatched to my core size. Its a bit of a shame because wire that length is few and far between for me, I might just stick to straight winds on my next coil and try a larger size core.

My tiny motor rose a 12v 7amp hour from  12.30 to 12.50 in about half an hour, the trifilar only went up .04 volts.

sigh....

Merry xmas everyone, vb's all round, Or bundy rums(sorry albert couldnt resist :) )
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on January 02, 2008, 04:49:42 AM
some pics of recent replications guys. I figured out the fwbr to cap to scr circuit and implemented it on the window motor. Charges quite well. The other one is a work in progress. I had to wire two coils in series, I couldnt keep the magnets on the rotor with all 3 coils firing as slaves. Jet speeds! :o ;D.

Interesting to see the charging rates on the CORELESS quad coil. Charging was quite fast in conparison to my single large coil. Amp draw is around 500ma once up to speed, but it charged much faster. Discharged 7 amp hour battery settled overnight to 12.20v was up to 12.60 in 45 minutes. Speedie is still under construction.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Koen1 on January 08, 2008, 02:10:19 PM
Nice pics. :)
What exact Bedini setup is this? I mean, obviously the basic idea is the same in all, but he has mentioned several different variations on the theme...
Are you using the 555 timer circuit? Apparently a neon bulb will work just as well, according to Bedini...

But if Bedini's statements are correct, you should not only be able to charge the batteries in this way, but you should also be able to use the motor to produce output... Is this the case?
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on January 08, 2008, 10:11:27 PM
the first one is a quad coil with both coils connected @ 90 degree in series. They all fire off the master trigger. Its coreless with small neos on the hdd disc, nsnsnsns. I had each coil setup to fire but the speeds I got were incredible, and I just couldnt keep the magnets on the rotor, even with them wrapped in copper wire! So for safety sake I downgraded it. It uses Bedinis simple sg circuit, although its not finished and I might end up changing it a little.

The window motor now looks like this as I added a second window. The second window is made from alot thicker wire salvaged from a microwave transformer. It draws 190ma on the first winding and charges fairly slow. Amp draw jumps up to 1 amp when the second coils is on but charging rate significantly increases. I have been battery swapping back and forth quite efficiently now. It uses ssg circuit variation as seen on this page,  http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html number 1a. The only difference is each coil has that circuit and each coil goes to a separate bridge. Voltage at the cap can go as high as 14v.

Perhaps you could run something directly off it? Its primary task I think however is to transfer power from one battery to another, powering a load in the process
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on January 13, 2008, 07:35:59 PM
Hello in the new year,

here is the new Motor, still without coils
(http://)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on January 13, 2008, 07:36:57 PM
..and here with two of the coils from the other machine, wiring is still "rats nest" type....
(http://)

I think you guys might be right about the bearing blocks, they might create drag on the rotor because of the eddy currents.

I cannot say much about the performance yet. will keep you posted!

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on March 01, 2008, 09:52:12 AM
Hello to everybody,
I have not had the time to post anything because the second machine gave me a handful of problems. 'I had to remove the aluminum frame since it was acting as a perfect brake because of the eddy currents generated by the magnets. (If I could get my hands on that Eddy.... >:()   
Next thing: The ballbearings. Had to open them up, remove the covers, clean out the grease. Lubricated with a light oil, the rotor ran now for five minutes when I turned it by hand.
This also made it possible to balance it. I drilled small holes on the rear side to get rid of excess weight on one side. then I still needed a couple of grams to get dynamic balance. Now it runs almost without vibration and up to 2000 rpm. Before, it was ready to jump off the table let me tell ya. So far my magnets have held. I don't want to be in there when one comes off. but my low energy setup runs at low speeds anyway.
WIRING is of the utmost importance. I use the biggest wire I could lay my hands on for the buss out. this greatly improves everything. The impedance has to be right. the test wiring with the alligator clamps did not work at all- the big wires do.

(http://)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on March 01, 2008, 09:54:17 AM
I had a chance to get bigger batteries from a surplus dealer. 50 AH gel cells - from UMTS cell phone amplifiers- used as backups. Old but cheap. they now have the chance to get better under the Bedini charge.... ;D
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on March 01, 2008, 10:06:02 AM
The new machine runs for more than 12 hours without switching the batteries. I found out that most of the problems encountered in battery swapping come from a misunderstanding. A lead acid battery cannot be quick-charged, even with the high voltage charge. Bedini's word "You have to charge on Nature's Curve" is dead right. the system is 24 volts!
If you take it slowly not trying to force electrons into the battery the charge will hold. I now run the machine at 700 mA at 24 Volts. this is way below the c/20 rate and i could run for days if necessary. Long runs are what we need- no one has tried to make a prolonged test so far. the new bats are not conditioned yet so they run down in time but very slowly. In 36 hours the voltmeter went from 49.8 to 49.6 volts with several swaps in this time. The rotor ran at a good 1500 rpm all the time.

For checking I use a voltmeter between the two battery banks - from secondary plus to primary minus. This shows the sum voltage. I put a switch into the trigger line of the machine - this way I can turn it on and off without breaking the contact to the batteries. Now if I switch the running machine on and off the voltmeter should not move at all. This is the correct setting for bat swapping. The batts dont "feel" the machine at all- the charge flows very slowly from one bank to the other and the rotor runs for free. Paddle wheel in a river- that is it....
the REAL magic is when you measure the current. I use a clamp ammeter so I can again measure things without opening the circuit. this meter has an error because it is for 50 Hz sinus waves only. But since the pulse frequency is the same on input or output, the error is the same on both lines . what I want to see is the RELATION between the currents. I get almost exactly 50 % of the input current- 700 mA in means about 400 mA out. Now WHAT IS CHARGING THE BATTERY???? the voltmeter does not move for 12 hours straight- the output charges at the same rate the input is discharging at. So this is the clear proof that the secondary battery is not charged by CURRENT. Bedini is right again....
Another important thing: I switched from the old 3055 transistors to the BD 243 C . Much better. and the trigger current from one wire on the three coils could not open up the transistors completely. they became very hot on long runs. I overcame this by connecting the two unused wires on the other coils in parallel to the trigger. (My coils on this machine are 2x 0.8mm and 1x 0.6 mm for the trigger.)
With this setup and two pots in series I can run the machine in solid state mode, too. The coils start to beep. this showed me that there is not much of a difference whether the rotor runs or not. The relation between input and output current varies  a little, and with the rotor running one can use higher currents.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on March 01, 2008, 10:10:03 AM
Now the THIRD machine is underway. AARRGH! A real BIG Bedini using five wires on the coil and 14 transistors, much like the ron Pugh machine in Pat Kellys documents on panaceauniversity.org.
Same rotor, but printed circuit boards and a specially made litz wire. five strands spun with nylon - 0.9 mm
(http://)
For the rotor and the pcb boards and the wire I have found professional help- one of the rare guys with an open mind and a solid engineers background. Could never have done this all by myself.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on March 01, 2008, 10:11:58 AM
Machine 3 on the road- we have decided not to dismantle the already running machine but to make a new one. this will show the difference. for this one we are gonna need the bigger batts. I hated to dismantle the first bike wheel machine to use the coils in the second one. I will rebuild it with another coil setup.
(http://)
Once they are running we can compare the two and finally get some decent measurements. I will keep you posted! Let me hear what you think, please!

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 01, 2008, 11:25:58 PM
Excellent work Albert! Very neat. Looks like you have been working hard.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hdbservices on March 02, 2008, 12:01:11 AM
Hello Everyone,

I've just joined but I have been doing research on rare earth magnets and I found a site that had adhesive specifically for magnets.  Unfortunately the link is on my computer at work.  I'll look it up and get it out to the group.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hdbservices on March 02, 2008, 12:08:27 AM
The adhesive and magnet link is:

http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/?utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=neodymium%2Brare%2Bearth%2Bmagnets&utm_campaign=Primary&OVRAW=neodymium%20rare%20earth%20magnets&OVKEY=neodymium%20rare%20earth%20magnet&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=2938887021&OVKWID=28656019021

Hope that helps you guys.  I'm looking for a working magnetic generator to develop relationship with to create a specific usage that I have market connections for...  If you know of such a device I would appreciate a referal?
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 02, 2008, 01:02:34 AM
Hi Hdb, welcome.

Good site for magnets thanks for the link.

I had a look at the glue. It is a two part epoxy paste similar to ones Ive used and works well. For nickel plated Neo's it seems they suggest buffing the magnet with 200 grade paper, without removing the plating. This is also a sound idea as it will help the glue bond better.

Most Bedini style wheels use  a ceramic magnet, which doesnt have this coating.

If your after a magnetic generator (an alternator/magneto I assume you are talking about) then I suggest looking at Hugh Piggots axial flux windmill plans. They have little to no cogging due to air cores.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hartiberlin on March 02, 2008, 03:07:19 AM
Hi Ren and Albert,
nice machines you both have built !
Congratulations.

But I would try to go try to build coil setups,
that only use as input current at maximum C/200
or better C/1000.
(C= capacity)

So if you have a 50 Amperehours battery, it would be best to have an input current
lower than 250 mA or better even only 50 mA.

This way you will not draw too much current from the
battery and as it is also a pulsed input current the battery willlast longer.

Also if you use Rick Friedrich?s setup with the additional coil
to pulse the BackEMF to the input battery, then you will never discharge the
input battery.

So lower input current counts a lot in these designs.

Regards, Stefan.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 04, 2008, 08:46:43 AM
gone
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 04, 2008, 08:55:59 AM
after reflecting . I appologise for posting all over Alberts thread . I removed all mt posts and pics.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: SeanTheLight on March 04, 2008, 09:34:05 AM
i believe they used structural glues to hold together the all-aluminum frames in audi cars and aerospace stuff, but a quick google search did not turn up a product name or description.

if you ask me, nothing beats good old mechanical force when its time to hold things together at high g's. consider you already have the wood block glued above the magnets, drill a hole through each side of the wood and into the wheel (where the hole wont be touching magnet). add a nut and bolt to each hole and use a threadlocker like loctite. you can use other materials for your bolts to avoid interfering with the magnetic field of the magnets.


(i should have read through entire thread before posting, this post seems out of place on page 4. i will endeavor not to let this happen again.)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 05, 2008, 06:40:55 AM
  I recon my posting on anothers thread  was not as big a problem as I had figured   :)  I will try  to fill some of the holes I left in the thread.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 05, 2008, 06:58:18 AM
 was having troubles getting up to speed without blowing transistors bd243c's . any ideas ?
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 05, 2008, 08:15:41 AM
Rick the best way to set up your machine would be with a single trigger firing all coils at once. You can link up all three triggers in series to do this but one should be enough. Try having a switch for each power winding that way you can test every one and run on lower currents too. The best way to wire up your circuit is to have all connections as short as possible, join the coils directly to the transistors. Ideally you should bunch your transistors next to your coils. Have all output diodes go to a buss bar, it could be circular around your machine, and then THICK cable for minimal losses to the + of the charge battery. Same thing goes for all the negative legs in the circuit. Same size buss bar for all the emmiter connections. There are lots of little tricks that can improve performance, have a look at JB's work on his multi coilers and note the layout.

I think you may be better off moving up to a bigger transistor too..... the bd's will suffice for now.


Rotational wise it needs to be smooth and little friction. A hard drive bearing wont spin for long by hand but it will do incredible speeds. Experiment with a different style bearing if you like.

Keep it up
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 06, 2008, 02:39:35 AM
 Thank you kindly  Ren for  the input . I yanked the bearings  and split them open to clean the grease out and put a couple drops of sewing machine oil in them .  they now spin a lot easier  and am looking at cutting back  the length of the coil wires
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 06, 2008, 07:39:44 AM
Yup you're onto it mate! You can use copper strip and also copper pipe for buss bars. It looks like you may have done that already. While I like the circuit boards Albert has sourced/made I have heard varying responses from people who have tried it that way. They do look very professional though!

Yes the switch simply breaks the positive terminal from the power winding. I cant remember exactly  where the page is with the pics, it might look something like this. Ill keep looking.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 08, 2008, 01:38:40 AM
 Last night after  putting switches on the pos drive buss  ,and cutting and moving other things I decided to  give the transistors 24 vdc and  pull all the resistance  and current buffers  and watch the scrawny bd 243c's pop one at a time  kinda like popcorn  I new what  would happen if I did that but I needed some action  after all the wiring and solder smoke.   for  now I'm in the  need for some captain morgan spiced rum ... need rum
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 08, 2008, 03:27:20 AM
lol, dropped a 24v nuke for some little puffs of smoke hey ??? ;D

I know how you feel, it can be frustrating getting a multi coiler to  run smooth.

Your diagram looks good from what I can tell. What did you change from the circuit that was working? Anything besides the busses and on/off switches?

Unfortunately I can only offer some suggestions to check your circuit out.

First things first, get it running off one coil only. One transistor only too if possible. This is where a switch for EACH power winding can come in handy as it will allow you to fire one coil, one winding minimum. 12 awg is pretty thick stuff, you'll probably find that you will need very little resistance on the trigger probably in the 50 ohm to 150 ohm, maybe less. Make sure they are over 1 watt rated preferably 2 watt with wire that size. Once you have one winding firing on one coil start adding other transistors to the other windings testing each one as you go. I would definately be using the 2N3055 for this circuit, even better the mlj21194 although these are about $10 bucks a pop so maybe not just yet.

Make sure the collectors of all transistors are isolated from each other. Remember the metal backing of the transistor is part of the collector too, so you cant mount them all on something conductive. Also each base of each transistor should have the same resistance and your pot/small globe should be your only adjustment on your master coil. Sometimes it helps to just clip everything together first, check to see it works well then solder everything one at a time. Much less dissapointment too.

Keep going mate, the rum will help for now, just get one coil up and running first with the right resistance and go from there.

Good luck!
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 08, 2008, 04:46:11 AM
 Well after the  smoke show I decided  to re transistor up to a set of  NTE 331 npn.s   , these are 15 amp   and some tougher  well  I  also remounted everything on a thicker board  and strung a new set of buss lines in a circle around the  outside of the coils ... hmmm 
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 08, 2008, 08:10:14 AM
 Ren sorry about the mistype  but  should have  typed the wire size I used in the coils was 19 awg  not 12 , and I have mica backs on the  new transistors I installed (nte 331's)  and the collectors are isolated to each transistor  except the driver battery does connect them with the pos  terminal  through the coils.  and the resistance on the trigger line is 4 100 ohm resistors 2  parralelled with 2 in series ,then through a 1 watt  12volt neon bulb   finally through a 50 ohm wire wound var-resistor.. after all this  I spun "ER" up  and   Gadzooks  it took off like a hyper foibling warble warp   . It used to  just spin at a countable rotation  " how lovely" but useless . now it is spinning at a speed that has me ducking and hiding behind my arms when I go near it to adjust and measure  . It's about time. it only took 6 months
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 08, 2008, 08:56:11 PM
 after all the hand filing to cut the magnet slots and  drilling out the center hole then gluing the 2 magnets into the slot using automotive goop  the magnets seem to be holding tight and there is only a couple of harmonic shudders on it's way to hyper speed  then it spins perfectly and quietly I am still using more power to spin the rotor than I can pull uot of the charge circuit , but it does charge 
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 08, 2008, 09:01:44 PM
  I am using a  good simpson true rms meter and it shows  I  am drawing 1.7 amps  at full speed  and  barely get over 1 amp out with  the full resistance at the trigger circuit   . If I drop the 200 Ohm  resistance and only use the 50 ohm  var-resistor I can pull 3.7 amps  to charge batteries with . but  you know the extra  costs   at the drive battery   because I have more rpm's   and  the coils are drawing  4.5 amps .  . so no cigar yet.   I have a couple  ideas  rattling around my noggin  and I have a few 12 hour night shifts to  figure them in.   I have a couple of scopes but have to figure out what I should look for and where . . I think the juice I want shows up just after the transistor closes and the hot power falls off   If the closing fall time is where th cold power sneaks in   I should figure uot how to capture that moment.  does anyone know which scope would be better to do this I have a tektronix 100 mhz ,analogue or a lecroy 400 mhz  digital  to use  and what type of probe ?  I just don't get much time on these machines.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 08, 2008, 11:10:54 PM
wicked! ;D Good work. Glad you got it crankin. What is amp draw at running speed?
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 09, 2008, 02:59:26 AM
I really don't know what this is showing yet if anything but OOH ,aah  I will get back to testing and modifying after I go earn some scratch for a few dayz >>zott<<<
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 10, 2008, 12:48:01 AM
hey zott what happened to all your posts ???
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: bourne on March 10, 2008, 01:01:47 AM
That is so disheartening zott
It really makes me sad
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 10, 2008, 08:35:38 AM
fair enough Zott we did kinda hijack this thread :-[

I guess we should start our own hey. ;)

Look forward to some more pics Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on March 10, 2008, 03:08:41 PM
Hello,
why didn't you leave your messages in? We want to discuss things...and the replies are hanging in the air without your messages....

well anyway, here are new pictures:
(http://)
The Batteries:
(http://)
And a scopeshot....
(http://)

Ren, I would like to know more about your machine- you seem to have followed the Bedini images exactly. I want to know what your input and output currents might be, and what it looks like on the scope. A shot from the coil side would also be appreciated.
I am not too happy with the performance of the third machine. Perhaps it is the printed circuit boards. I wired them together as shortly as possible, all on the back of the machine. but the wires from the coils have to be longer for this of course.
 As you can see on my scope shot,  the "Radiant Spike" is well into the 120-130 Volt region here and goes up twice as high as on the other device. the big batteries charge dead slow nonetheless. RPM is 730 at full speed-one pulse per magnet. I am not sure about the little lamp in the trigger circuit. With it, i get 2.12. A input maximum and without it, about 3 A. Output current is between 800 mA and 1 A. Its clear that a 100 amp hour battery will charge slowly on that. Nonetheless it charges.
For longer test runs, I run at 3 pulses/magnet and about 1.30 A input. 540 RPM on the rotor. I still have vibration problems on this one.

Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 10, 2008, 09:43:43 PM
Looks good Albert. I think the pcb boards may restrict performance somewhat. I also think your transistors may be too small for that sort of current draw. It works though so maybe Im wrong. I would be inclined to move towards a mlj transistor.

I havnt wired up mine yet and it still needs a core for the coil, getting that today hopefully.

I am attempting to create a pulsed discharge setup hence the fixed shaft for attachment of timing wheel. I would also like to try a back popping style to keep the primary topped up. So a few different tests to run on the same machine.

Try charging a slightly smaller battery. If your drawing 2.2 amps I would suggest a 40 amp hour battery, thats just under c/20. Are they deep  cycle lead acids? Or damaged? what is vibrating?

Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: gandalf on March 13, 2008, 03:23:58 AM
@Albert

Just read this thread from start to finish. I haven't been on this board for a while. Great work.

A couple of tips - if you can go to the MJL21194 flat pack transistors, especially if you are running at 24V. Lead acid flooded wet cell deep cycle batteries work better as secondary batteries. You can use your gel cells as primaries if you can keep them charged up with a conventional charger.

@Ren

Haven't heard from you for a while on the other lists. Looks like you're still hard at it! I'd love to catch up and compare setups, I'm in Melbourne too. I'd prefer a Heineken than a VB  ;)

Cheers,

John
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 13, 2008, 03:57:28 AM
Hey John, hows life?

Ive been busy lately, mostly with work. Still building and close to completion. Still monitor other forums, only post when I have something to say. Been studying Tesla patents in an attempt to understand it all lately.

shan
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: gandalf on March 13, 2008, 04:10:32 AM
Hey Shan,

If you haven't already, check out Tesla's one-wire "System of Electric Lightning". US patent 454,622.

And just to stay on topic - Albert, are your coils wired up as master/slave arrangement or are they three separate circuits? Master/slave works better IMO, it's also easier to tune and will charge your batteries better.

Cheers,

John
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on March 14, 2008, 11:23:25 AM
Hello friends,

thanks for the tips- I would like to use the bigger transistors, but have not found them so far here in Germany.

I have worked out the vibration problem - needed 2 grams of extra weight on one side of the rotor. And a wooden cross bar to stabilize the whole thing. There are resonance problems at certain speeds. I also used some rubber dampeners from an old cd rom drive to get rid of the droning noises, this way I can run the thing without hearing it all over the house.
Right now I run a slow test - changed the gap setting between rotors and coils- so this way the thing will run at 700-900 mA at 350 rpm. I charged both battery banks at 12 volts -put in 15 AH into both of them. Lets see how long the running time will be until both bats are down to 12 volts again.
The cap bank/ back popper system also continues to intrigue me. I will rework my first bike wheel machine to have the axle rotate and then make another coil for it. it should run on very little current. The bigger machines are probably not too good for this anyway.

Shan, my coils are all running from the same trigger. I would like to try a separate coil for the trigger - it can deliver more current. I also would like to try having a four coil arrangement with two coils between magnets and two coils facing magnets. Bedinis "double decker" machine has that but they are all firing from the same trigger. He says this way you can get torque out of the rotor.
gandalf, thanks for the tip on the batteries. I think - like you- that the gel cells might not be the optimum- mine are old anyway and I would like to try new ones. but they are too expensive for me at the moment. I  have not tried wet cells at all so far because I do not want to have that mess in my shop. When summer comes, I will try to move one machine to my garden shed, there it can make all the mess it wants to make! ;D
I thought about doubling the pulse rate by having the above setup and running it off two different triggers. So there is a lot to try still..all these setups are prototypes anyway.

Please keep me informed! ren, what do you use for coil cores? we are talking about laminated cores - rectangular in shape to be the width of the magnets. what do you think?

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on March 14, 2008, 09:27:33 PM
Hey Albert.

I think youd find the square cores would perform very similar to the round ones. I could be wrong though. My core is circular and is the same width of the magnets I use. I had good results when the magnets were smaller too. I brought 5 kilos of R60 (Comweld high test, equivalent of R60) and it seems to work well for coil core. I'd be happy to part with some if anyone is willing to cover cost and pay for postage. I can cut it up to the length you need to make postage easier too. It was $60 bucks for five kilos, and theres no way Im gonna use it all this century.

Albert I think it would be interesting to try a pick up coil as your trigger coil. You could wind very fine wire and try to get the quickest switching time possible. Alternate firing will give you a little more torque but not as good charging IMO. You may want to check out this post from Peter Lindemann who worked closely with John. http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/1643-capacitor-options.html#post16017.

You may need to sign up to read it but it is worth it.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on March 20, 2008, 06:19:31 PM
Thanks ren - I read the post and I see that every day some more information seeps out.

RESULTS:

I ran the 3 coil machine for 4 days continuously, switching batteries about every 10 hours or so. I tried to make the switching over as quickly as possible without stopping the machine.
Before doing this, I charged both battery banks with a normal charger, I put in 15 AH into each one, makes 30 all together. Both banks were at 12 Volts before charging em.Voltage at rest was 12.580 before the test and about 12. 126 Volts after the test.
I have then set the machine not to its normal sweet spot but to a much lower speed. It draws -- here it gets difficult!! My analog needle meter shows 1.5 A - the true RMS digital ammeter also. the clamp ammeter shows about 800 mA. I tend to think more along 1 to 1.5 A.
Ok now- lets say we ran for 96 hours at 1.5 A. Makes 144 AH Output. At 800 mA this makes 76 AH output. both are way over the combined capacities of the batteries. Anyway over the 30 AH I put in at the beginning.
the lowest voltage on one of them was 11.885 volts. At rest both banks were still above 12 volts at the end of the run. All the while the rotor turned at 450 rpm.
If that is not O'U, I don't know. If I had pulled the cells down to 11 Volts, I would still be running today....
I notice that the radiant charge has a tendency to dissipate quickly on the cells I use. I had to keep at it nonstop.
I think the problem with the battery switching is that people tend to force too much current into them while draining the drive batts too quickly. I ran a test with the machine at full blast drawing about 5 A on the batts. The charge battery would go up very rapidly, then collapse to the voltage I had before I started charging when I switched it to the input. By running the machine slowly I seem to be in "nature"s curve" as JB would say. Also, the type of battery seems to respond better to several short pulses in a row. At my setting, the machine gave 4 pulses, then a pause, and then 4 pulses again. Looks like the signal of a RC transmitter before modulation.
I really think that another problem may be that the batteries seem to respond well to a pulsed charge but not to a pulsed DISCHARGE. If one of you has a really big capacitor bank, try hooking it up in parallel to the energizers input to see if the battery lasts longer when the pulses are smoothed by the caps.

Please tell me if you find faults with my measurements - and my reasoning!

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on March 21, 2008, 12:05:29 AM
 Thanks for posting some measurements  . this will give me some more comparison  numbers to  use against my own numbers.  I have ran   measurements on  the setup I have built and have measured  the amp cost to turn the rotor and  amp outflow to  the charge batts, I get better numbers early in the morning  on the first couple of spin ups.  the cost in amps on one good test was  2.1 to 2.2 amps at 23.21 vdc ( I went up to 24 volts to drive the rotor to get more speed while using more adjustable resistance on the trigger line ) to turn the rotor.  Then out of the  return charge line to the charging battery  I read 1.43 amps at 12.75-12.8 volts  this was not good enough so I took 1 line from each coil  that did not have  the trigger line in them and I built a bridge rect. out of 1n007 diodes  and ran it  through a spring switch then into a  set of 6- 30 vdc , 160,000 mfd computer grade capacitors  and spun  the rotor up again . this time I also pulled  2.0 amps at 22.6 vdc out of the 2 coils while I held the  spring switch closed which I loaded into the capacitor bank . If I left the spring switch open the line buildup would  get to 23 volts and when I closed the switch to let the buildup into the capacitors I would get up to 8 amps for a couple seconds until it bled off into the capacitor and then it would charge at a 1.4 to 2 amp  continous rate. I figured this was great because these 2 lines that were feeding the caps had no voltage input other than what they picked up   through the coil ( induction transferrance?)  while it was running the rotor . almost something for nothing , but I do not thinng so  yet?   So now  the system has 1 battery that is giving energy 2.1 amps @23.21 vdc,to turn the rotor and 2  charge circuits  that give  1.43 amps ( through the transistors) and 1 that gives  up to 2 amps continous through the coil;s using inductance. . A lot more work to do and I really want to try the cap at the drive battery you spoke of. thanks again....fr.. rick,.( I hope this is understandable  description  I was rushed to get ready for another 12 hour night shift.)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hartiberlin on March 29, 2008, 08:50:45 PM
Did anybody ofyou include spark gaps in the charging side of the circuits ?
Makes these Bedini type much more effective.

Remember Bedini used also first in his earlier units mechanical
switches to deliver the cap charge back to the batteries.

Via the spark gap at the switch you have dissimular metals
and sparks which work like miniature batteries and deliver additional
free electrons into the circuit.
The same is happening in the Newman machines,
when the commutator switches.

Best effect is with graphite and copper electrodes as the spark gap.
Gives much more juice into the charging battery.

Regards, Stefan.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on April 03, 2008, 06:57:03 AM
 left meter  reads 1.02 amps drive current at 24 volts , center meter shows .27 amps charging current into 12 voltsthrough mje 3055 transistors. and the right side coil shows.81 amps chargeinto 12 a volt battery through  2 wires going through 2 of the coils then a full bridge using inductance only  the trigger had  a 50 ohm var resistor and  120 ohms of 1/2 watt resistance with a 12 volt  1 watt neon bulb as a buffer. I let it find it's own speed with max trigger resistance. I will post a few nwew pics  in following  message boxes as only 1 -50 k pic per post is allowed.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on April 03, 2008, 07:27:01 AM
I tried to post explanation of the next pics but it refused a 50k pic ,then lost the post and gave the you already posted b.s.  so I will just post pics ,i don't have time to be screwed with
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on April 03, 2008, 07:37:38 AM
previous picture  big 160,000 mfd  30 VDC  cap bank for  the 2 inductance lines.Runnning a closed circuit through the full bridges  will hold 2 amps current into the batteries .. When a switch is put in the line the caps will build 8 amps current  then bleeds off into the battery when the switch is closed. I will work on an auto switching line control  perhaps with a spark gap.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on April 03, 2008, 07:50:50 AM
work area is getting a bit sloppy, The new circular setup for the power busses and shortened coil lines suggested by Ren has worked out a lot better than when the control mods were all on 1 side , which had  less efficient longer wires. Thanks
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: prometei on April 03, 2008, 05:21:09 PM
Did anybody ofyou include spark gaps in the charging side of the circuits ?
Makes these Bedini type much more effective.


Where would this spark gap be on this schematic?

(http://photofile.ru/photo/infinaut.frontru/135016581/large/135233965.jpg)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: hartiberlin on April 03, 2008, 06:25:11 PM
@prometei,
that is a new circuit diagram.
Normally Bedini had behind the D2 diode still a big capacitor and if this
cap was charged up to around 30 Volts he dumped then the charge via
mechanical switches into the charge battery.

The mechnical switches were the sparkgaps then as it was sparking when the
switch was closed.
This way the switch electrodes get comsumed and produce free electrons that
get into the circuit and charge up the battery even more.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: albert on April 05, 2008, 05:31:58 PM
Hello,

zott your machine looks great. can you give us a drawn schematic of your cap pulse system? Or have you hooked the caps up in permanence?

I have now modified my very first simple bike wheel machine to make the hub of the wheel turn with it. I now can test switch methods. tried the classical bedini cap pulse device -that did not work too well for me. I then tried having a very large cap on the input. It only gets a short blast from the input battery when the switch closes once per revolution of the wheel. so the wheel will turn only on the cap for most of the time. this seems to be easier on the input battery.
I then tried to close the loop putting a fwbr on the output charging a cap. This was then pushed back into the input battery. thee input battery stays at the same voltage for a long time and then it begins to run down....
Stefan, The spark gap idea - sparking switches might do the same thing- well, I have not had much success with that so far. I used copper on the rotating part of the switch and copper tongues cut from sheet copper for the contacts. On top of  the contacts I used a big drop of solder for the area where they touch the rotating part of the switch. Should it be carbon or graphite?

The more I do with the Bedini the more I see that pushing electrons by force into the charging battery does not work when you want to switch batts. If I take it slowly I get much better results. The Bike Wheel only draws 100 mA and charges the secondary battery quite well nonetheless. Perhaps its like , doing it slowly is more fun?! ;D

thanks again for the pictures, zott, how did you work out the bearings of the rotor? as far as I can see its supported only at the bottom. do you use two bearings?

Albert
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on April 05, 2008, 10:49:37 PM
Nice setup Zott.

Albert have you tried pulsing the back end? I am nearly finished my timing wheel for low voltage high uF discharge. I am interested to see how this performs. I found similar results with you on front end experiments.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on April 07, 2008, 01:34:27 AM
  this is a  rough board drawing  , I will try to draw a more complete schem of the entire setup when I get a day off work ( 12 hour shifts are killer)  I gave an attempt at  the spark gap setup using a spark plug but had no success  getting it to jump even a tight gap.  so I put the plug back into my areal system.   Albert I do use 2 bearings in my rotor support tower,using a 1inch spacer between them. The capacitor bank I use is connected in parralell with the charging battery with a couple of   4007diodes  and a switch on the positive line to release the capacitor  charge into the battery  .I had a reed type switch mounted on top of one of the coils  which was closed by hitting a  lump of dried rubber glue I formed on the top of the rotor at the outer most edge and it worked great ( better than closing the switch by hand every 2 seconds). but the switch cooked  after  a few hours of high speed activation with current flowing.  With the high speed switching going the drag on the rotor was minimal  and it did not seem to use much more power to keep spinning at high speed. I could keep the resistance high on the trigger line and get max power into the  2 inductance lines. . When I had the  switch closed continually  the drag on the motor was a lot higher and I had to lower the resistance on the trigger line to keep the revs up. and this results in lower output on the 2 full bridge lines but it still held at 1.8 to 2 amps .  into the caps and charge batt(with the switch continually closed). the drive line also hogged up about the same amount of power  that the  charge line gave.  so having a fast switch on the pos line from caps to battery seems the way to go - it gave lots of charge and had little effect on the rotor speed. I have a lot more things I want to try , they just keep  popping up in my train of thought  on this thing , but it all takes too long  to put them into motion.  . especially ordering components when your in the middle of  where? " nowhere". I also have a rotoverter built out of 10hp baldor 3 phase motors, and am started on a M.E.G. Which weighs about 50 lbs. man I sure get a lot of exersise with this hobby. and some day I will have enough power to keep the battery banks charged ,so I can quit using the diesel generators to run my off grid mountain homestead..  Well Off to work and thanks for the interest. BY for now.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on April 07, 2008, 02:04:12 AM
Hi Zott, you could also use an scr inplace of your diodes just before your charge battery. It wont do switch dumping into the batteries for you but will perform better constantly connected than your current configuration. If you dont know how to hook one up post back and I'll draw a simple schematic up. With a scr in place my cap read at least half a volt higher that the charge battery, and that was with one coil, Id imagine yours would be much higher.

If you want to trigger it to dump you probably need to have a timing device, whether electronic or mechanical. Electronic can be tricky, mechanical can be unreliable. Perhaps the simplest form would be a good relay that you can trigger with a small magnet on your timing rotor to close. IF the relay has  a removable cover you can keep the contacts clean and it will last much longer.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on April 08, 2008, 12:56:54 AM
Sure draw me up an s.c.rectifier, I have a heap of salvaged npn transistors  but not many pnp. would I be able to use any random transistors npn-pnp combination, as long as they are about the same power rating. what exactly will it do for my circuit.  the diodes I had in the circuit were just to keep  power  from the battery  from over amping the cheap switches I was playing with, and from feeding the  capacitors.when I measure the output of my system I am always concerned with the amperage  used and  made and have not put much thought in the voltage strength . I just used volts as a type of fuel guage to tell me how much  battery charge I have used or have left. Do you know of a common easy to buy, fild or scavange oscillator  to build a timing switch from .  555's are  not easily  available here.  I would like to have a mechanical switch setup but have not come across the right  components to fab one up.. actually I would like both just to compare them.  thanks ...fr...rick
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Ren on April 08, 2008, 03:27:44 AM
Its not easy to get a good mech switch going, Im finding that out too.

You will need a scr, I dont think a transistor will do. SCR's will have the lowest voltage drop across them, or that is what I am told anyway. There is a couple of ways to configure them as seen below. In these configs, the voltage in the cap is usually .5 to 1 volt higher than the charge battery. Ive had good success with a 800v 16 amp scr, I can help you locate some if you like. Also for 555's order them online is easy enough. Let me know if you have any q's
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: zott on April 14, 2008, 07:09:54 AM
well I fiddled with this thing for 6 months or so now and I do not think it will ever put out the amount of power I want to charge my batteries for the cabin   so it will be a conversation piece and  beside the ping pong table .  I just found the exact machine I need to charge my batteries . so I bought one .. It is  6.5 KW  1 cyl   yanmar  china diesel design generator with a brushless alternator.  So   thats  It ,I'm Done  hope you folks have better luck than I did . the loot I blew on this bedini  mag motor gen could have bought me 500 gallons of diesel .. sheesh
Title: STACKING BEDINI MOTORS FOR OU RESULTS
Post by: albert on December 04, 2008, 04:22:34 PM
Stacking Bedini generators for OU results

For my latest experiments I am using my two selfmade Bedini generators. Number one is a three coil setup with a 10 kilogram rotor and trifilar coils. Number two is the classic bike wheel machine, one coil, also trifilar setup.  Both machines are run in solid state mode. They have different amp draws, two identical machines might not work here, one big and one smaller is the way to go.

The first generator is run with a single battery and a relay driven switch. Battery A runs the machine for 30 seconds, and charges a big capacitor. (470.000 farads/10 volts by Philips.) this cap must be able to deliver current of about 250 mA for at least half a minute, the garden variety of cap is not suitable. I mean a BEEG cap obviously.
The switch then puts the cap to the input and the next 30 seconds the cap is drained and recharges the primary battery. This way the first Bedini runs almost without losing energy, I had losses of 1 % of the battery capacity per hour. (7 aH gel cells.)
On the cap we put he input of the second bedini generator. The surplus energy on the cap runs this generator also in solid state mode, and charges a secondary 12 V 7 aH gel cell.
With this setup I had 2 % loss in the primary but more than 20 % gain in the secondary battery during a two hour test run.
 If you do not have the big cap, use a dead battery! I happened to have another 7 aH gel cell that would not accept a charge and hover around ten volts. This is more than enough to run the second Bedini machine when it gets topped up every 30 seconds. It won’t drain but it won’t charge either and just serves as a buffer.

For the switch I used a simple timing circuit, store bought. It switches a relay in adjustable intervals between 2 times a second and twelve hours. The timer relay switches 2 other relays whose common contacts are connected to the input and output connectors of the Bedini. The normally open and normally closed contacts are connected crosswise to the cap and Battery A. All three relays have to be on and off at the same time. If you make the mistake, like I did, of switcheing the auxiliary relays in flipflop fashion- one on, one off- you’ll get smoke when you turn off the power supply to the relays. Both will then be in the off position and create a short circuit.
If the output of the machine is protected by neons it will not matter when one of the relays is slightly lagging behind the other. You will get a short flash on the neons but nothing to seriously damage the transistors. Nevertheless I recommend to run these tests while you are around, and not leave the machines on during the night.
The timing of the switch can be set while measuring the voltage at the cap or the dead battery. It should stabilize at certain max/min values after a while and not rise or fall.
With this setup you can see that energy is coming into the system. After some hours the secondary battery will be swapped with the primary, and you will wind up with two fully charged batts….from nothing.
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: Thaelin on December 04, 2008, 05:35:33 PM
   If a really big cap is in order, try the one Doc Stiffler used. Its like 3 FARADS!  Charge that up and run your bedini
all day from it.  ;D  Not sure if it would but sure would hold up for a while.

thaelin
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: innovation_station on January 12, 2009, 04:35:04 PM
WOW!!!!

first time i saw this thred......  :o


you guys....  ;D


did i see my cappac! design back a few pages ago.....  hummm....

great work....    ;D

ist


i may have a few pics to add soon of my work  ;)
Title: Re: Bedini replication in Germany
Post by: guruji on March 16, 2009, 10:15:30 PM
Hi guys any help please. I did charge batteries with Bedini motor but it does not stay long after a day it gets discharged again. Is there a way that these batteries keep the charge?.
Thanks