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Author Topic: Bedini replication in Germany  (Read 81010 times)

Offline prometei

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #90 on: April 03, 2008, 05:21:09 PM »
Did anybody ofyou include spark gaps in the charging side of the circuits ?
Makes these Bedini type much more effective.


Where would this spark gap be on this schematic?

(http://photofile.ru/photo/infinaut.frontru/135016581/large/135233965.jpg)

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #90 on: April 03, 2008, 05:21:09 PM »

Offline hartiberlin

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #91 on: April 03, 2008, 06:25:11 PM »
@prometei,
that is a new circuit diagram.
Normally Bedini had behind the D2 diode still a big capacitor and if this
cap was charged up to around 30 Volts he dumped then the charge via
mechanical switches into the charge battery.

The mechnical switches were the sparkgaps then as it was sparking when the
switch was closed.
This way the switch electrodes get comsumed and produce free electrons that
get into the circuit and charge up the battery even more.

Offline albert

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #92 on: April 05, 2008, 05:31:58 PM »
Hello,

zott your machine looks great. can you give us a drawn schematic of your cap pulse system? Or have you hooked the caps up in permanence?

I have now modified my very first simple bike wheel machine to make the hub of the wheel turn with it. I now can test switch methods. tried the classical bedini cap pulse device -that did not work too well for me. I then tried having a very large cap on the input. It only gets a short blast from the input battery when the switch closes once per revolution of the wheel. so the wheel will turn only on the cap for most of the time. this seems to be easier on the input battery.
I then tried to close the loop putting a fwbr on the output charging a cap. This was then pushed back into the input battery. thee input battery stays at the same voltage for a long time and then it begins to run down....
Stefan, The spark gap idea - sparking switches might do the same thing- well, I have not had much success with that so far. I used copper on the rotating part of the switch and copper tongues cut from sheet copper for the contacts. On top of  the contacts I used a big drop of solder for the area where they touch the rotating part of the switch. Should it be carbon or graphite?

The more I do with the Bedini the more I see that pushing electrons by force into the charging battery does not work when you want to switch batts. If I take it slowly I get much better results. The Bike Wheel only draws 100 mA and charges the secondary battery quite well nonetheless. Perhaps its like , doing it slowly is more fun?! ;D

thanks again for the pictures, zott, how did you work out the bearings of the rotor? as far as I can see its supported only at the bottom. do you use two bearings?

Albert

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #92 on: April 05, 2008, 05:31:58 PM »
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Offline Ren

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #93 on: April 05, 2008, 10:49:37 PM »
Nice setup Zott.

Albert have you tried pulsing the back end? I am nearly finished my timing wheel for low voltage high uF discharge. I am interested to see how this performs. I found similar results with you on front end experiments.

Offline zott

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #94 on: April 07, 2008, 01:34:27 AM »
  this is a  rough board drawing  , I will try to draw a more complete schem of the entire setup when I get a day off work ( 12 hour shifts are killer)  I gave an attempt at  the spark gap setup using a spark plug but had no success  getting it to jump even a tight gap.  so I put the plug back into my areal system.   Albert I do use 2 bearings in my rotor support tower,using a 1inch spacer between them. The capacitor bank I use is connected in parralell with the charging battery with a couple of   4007diodes  and a switch on the positive line to release the capacitor  charge into the battery  .I had a reed type switch mounted on top of one of the coils  which was closed by hitting a  lump of dried rubber glue I formed on the top of the rotor at the outer most edge and it worked great ( better than closing the switch by hand every 2 seconds). but the switch cooked  after  a few hours of high speed activation with current flowing.  With the high speed switching going the drag on the rotor was minimal  and it did not seem to use much more power to keep spinning at high speed. I could keep the resistance high on the trigger line and get max power into the  2 inductance lines. . When I had the  switch closed continually  the drag on the motor was a lot higher and I had to lower the resistance on the trigger line to keep the revs up. and this results in lower output on the 2 full bridge lines but it still held at 1.8 to 2 amps .  into the caps and charge batt(with the switch continually closed). the drive line also hogged up about the same amount of power  that the  charge line gave.  so having a fast switch on the pos line from caps to battery seems the way to go - it gave lots of charge and had little effect on the rotor speed. I have a lot more things I want to try , they just keep  popping up in my train of thought  on this thing , but it all takes too long  to put them into motion.  . especially ordering components when your in the middle of  where? " nowhere". I also have a rotoverter built out of 10hp baldor 3 phase motors, and am started on a M.E.G. Which weighs about 50 lbs. man I sure get a lot of exersise with this hobby. and some day I will have enough power to keep the battery banks charged ,so I can quit using the diesel generators to run my off grid mountain homestead..  Well Off to work and thanks for the interest. BY for now.

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #94 on: April 07, 2008, 01:34:27 AM »
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Offline Ren

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #95 on: April 07, 2008, 02:04:12 AM »
Hi Zott, you could also use an scr inplace of your diodes just before your charge battery. It wont do switch dumping into the batteries for you but will perform better constantly connected than your current configuration. If you dont know how to hook one up post back and I'll draw a simple schematic up. With a scr in place my cap read at least half a volt higher that the charge battery, and that was with one coil, Id imagine yours would be much higher.

If you want to trigger it to dump you probably need to have a timing device, whether electronic or mechanical. Electronic can be tricky, mechanical can be unreliable. Perhaps the simplest form would be a good relay that you can trigger with a small magnet on your timing rotor to close. IF the relay has  a removable cover you can keep the contacts clean and it will last much longer.

Offline zott

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #96 on: April 08, 2008, 12:56:54 AM »
Sure draw me up an s.c.rectifier, I have a heap of salvaged npn transistors  but not many pnp. would I be able to use any random transistors npn-pnp combination, as long as they are about the same power rating. what exactly will it do for my circuit.  the diodes I had in the circuit were just to keep  power  from the battery  from over amping the cheap switches I was playing with, and from feeding the  capacitors.when I measure the output of my system I am always concerned with the amperage  used and  made and have not put much thought in the voltage strength . I just used volts as a type of fuel guage to tell me how much  battery charge I have used or have left. Do you know of a common easy to buy, fild or scavange oscillator  to build a timing switch from .  555's are  not easily  available here.  I would like to have a mechanical switch setup but have not come across the right  components to fab one up.. actually I would like both just to compare them.  thanks ...fr...rick

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #96 on: April 08, 2008, 12:56:54 AM »
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Offline Ren

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #97 on: April 08, 2008, 03:27:44 AM »
Its not easy to get a good mech switch going, Im finding that out too.

You will need a scr, I dont think a transistor will do. SCR's will have the lowest voltage drop across them, or that is what I am told anyway. There is a couple of ways to configure them as seen below. In these configs, the voltage in the cap is usually .5 to 1 volt higher than the charge battery. Ive had good success with a 800v 16 amp scr, I can help you locate some if you like. Also for 555's order them online is easy enough. Let me know if you have any q's

Offline zott

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #98 on: April 14, 2008, 07:09:54 AM »
well I fiddled with this thing for 6 months or so now and I do not think it will ever put out the amount of power I want to charge my batteries for the cabin   so it will be a conversation piece and  beside the ping pong table .  I just found the exact machine I need to charge my batteries . so I bought one .. It is  6.5 KW  1 cyl   yanmar  china diesel design generator with a brushless alternator.  So   thats  It ,I'm Done  hope you folks have better luck than I did . the loot I blew on this bedini  mag motor gen could have bought me 500 gallons of diesel .. sheesh

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #98 on: April 14, 2008, 07:09:54 AM »
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Offline albert

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STACKING BEDINI MOTORS FOR OU RESULTS
« Reply #99 on: December 04, 2008, 04:22:34 PM »
Stacking Bedini generators for OU results

For my latest experiments I am using my two selfmade Bedini generators. Number one is a three coil setup with a 10 kilogram rotor and trifilar coils. Number two is the classic bike wheel machine, one coil, also trifilar setup.  Both machines are run in solid state mode. They have different amp draws, two identical machines might not work here, one big and one smaller is the way to go.

The first generator is run with a single battery and a relay driven switch. Battery A runs the machine for 30 seconds, and charges a big capacitor. (470.000 farads/10 volts by Philips.) this cap must be able to deliver current of about 250 mA for at least half a minute, the garden variety of cap is not suitable. I mean a BEEG cap obviously.
The switch then puts the cap to the input and the next 30 seconds the cap is drained and recharges the primary battery. This way the first Bedini runs almost without losing energy, I had losses of 1 % of the battery capacity per hour. (7 aH gel cells.)
On the cap we put he input of the second bedini generator. The surplus energy on the cap runs this generator also in solid state mode, and charges a secondary 12 V 7 aH gel cell.
With this setup I had 2 % loss in the primary but more than 20 % gain in the secondary battery during a two hour test run.
 If you do not have the big cap, use a dead battery! I happened to have another 7 aH gel cell that would not accept a charge and hover around ten volts. This is more than enough to run the second Bedini machine when it gets topped up every 30 seconds. It won’t drain but it won’t charge either and just serves as a buffer.

For the switch I used a simple timing circuit, store bought. It switches a relay in adjustable intervals between 2 times a second and twelve hours. The timer relay switches 2 other relays whose common contacts are connected to the input and output connectors of the Bedini. The normally open and normally closed contacts are connected crosswise to the cap and Battery A. All three relays have to be on and off at the same time. If you make the mistake, like I did, of switcheing the auxiliary relays in flipflop fashion- one on, one off- you’ll get smoke when you turn off the power supply to the relays. Both will then be in the off position and create a short circuit.
If the output of the machine is protected by neons it will not matter when one of the relays is slightly lagging behind the other. You will get a short flash on the neons but nothing to seriously damage the transistors. Nevertheless I recommend to run these tests while you are around, and not leave the machines on during the night.
The timing of the switch can be set while measuring the voltage at the cap or the dead battery. It should stabilize at certain max/min values after a while and not rise or fall.
With this setup you can see that energy is coming into the system. After some hours the secondary battery will be swapped with the primary, and you will wind up with two fully charged batts….from nothing.

Offline Thaelin

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #100 on: December 04, 2008, 05:35:33 PM »
   If a really big cap is in order, try the one Doc Stiffler used. Its like 3 FARADS!  Charge that up and run your bedini
all day from it.  ;D  Not sure if it would but sure would hold up for a while.

thaelin

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #100 on: December 04, 2008, 05:35:33 PM »
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Offline innovation_station

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #101 on: January 12, 2009, 04:35:04 PM »
WOW!!!!

first time i saw this thred......  :o


you guys....  ;D


did i see my cappac! design back a few pages ago.....  hummm....

great work....    ;D

ist


i may have a few pics to add soon of my work  ;)

Offline guruji

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Re: Bedini replication in Germany
« Reply #102 on: March 16, 2009, 10:15:30 PM »
Hi guys any help please. I did charge batteries with Bedini motor but it does not stay long after a day it gets discharged again. Is there a way that these batteries keep the charge?.
Thanks

 

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