I got the circuit to work for something like 3 seconds..... :-( Maybe my core is too big and did not go into saturation.

You probably don't have the your windings connected correctly.

Assuming all are wound in the same direction, reverse the connection of the trigger winding.

-Duff

@all

Well I got mine going and the led blinks for about 4 seconds tried reversing the coils and trigger but best result is as stated. Regardless, this is a major step forward for me personally.

I think my coil wires are too big 18 awg, plus the trigger may be to big also. So I just took apart another ready made coil to get another ferrite and will re-wire with smaller wire.

Still do not understand about the 30 turns of two 15 turns. Geez, does this mean two 15 turns in parallel or is the 30 turns bifilar?

These questions should have been resolved before any build.

@Rosphere

Geez nice work but that's more than a "few" questions. All these would be eventually answered with a diagram.

Just the fact that the system was running longer with the circuit then directly on the charged cap says it's got promise, so let's give EM some room to breath.

@argona369

Can't blame EM for being a realist. He's seen these before only to jump back to say no way. So being the cautious optimist is only the right and responsible thing to do.

@all

Well I got mine going and the led blinks for about 4 seconds tried reversing the coils and trigger but best result is as stated. Regardless, this is a major step forward for me personally.

I think my coil wires are too big 18 awg, plus the trigger may be to big also. So I just took apart another ready made coil to get another ferrite and will re-wire with smaller wire.

Still do not understand about the 30 turns of two 15 turns. Geez, does this mean two 15 turns in parallel or is the 30 turns bifilar?

These questions should have been resolved before any build.

@wattsup,

This is why I tried to ask as many questions as I could, early on.  Many were answered in subsequent posts but some are still unknown.  This is why I have not started to replicate it, yet.

I really do appreciate EM Devices' contributions here.  He has done a lot of neat things.  However, trying to keep pace with him has proven difficult for me in the past; like chasing a deer through the woods after you have been spotted.  Key questions were unanswered and reproduction of his results with my incomplete or inaccurate replications were unattainable.

I was not happy when it happened to me before.  I am over it now, but wiser.  This is a part time gig for most of us and it is difficult to keep up with so many postings in so many topics, (and some folks here visit other forums as well.)  Time goes by, life brings distractions, we become interested in other avenues of approach, and we move on.

@EM Devices,

No hard feelings, EM, I understand.  If you have some time available, and you are still working on this project, can you please post a top down photo and a photo of the back side of that toroid?

I would really like to have a go at this.  It looks interesting, (even if it is just a capacitor relaxer circuit.)   

Thank you,
Rosphere

If you look at the photo EM posted you'll see the initial winding consists of a trifilar(3 conductor) wind. The colors are white, black and blue. He then has an added pickup coil at the top. I make it out as seven turns of magnet wire - center-tapped.(the solder blob) I believe he said part of the above was not connected in the final circuit.

So he is probably only using two conductors of the trifilar winding.

Well I built my EM replication today...

I used 17 winds each bifilar for the control and 9 winds for the trigger.  Wire was 20 gauge, silver plated.  I could only get 1 minute 15 seconds for the LED to blink after power was removed.  I repeated this test four times, using a stop watch.  During that time, my collector of three turns around the diameter of the ferrite using #22 stranded, showed just over 1 volt AC when the power was disconnected.Adding the collector was just an idea I had.

I am now rewinding my mini toroid with magnet wire, 20 gauge, more turns and see if I can increase the time.

Cheers,
Bruce

Quote from: duff on November 17, 2007, 07:28:16 PM

When mine is running off the cap then the osc starts at 6.9Hz and slowly floats upward for 14 minutes and ending at 7.32 Hz.


-Duff

Fascinating, 7.32 Hz   SCHUMANN RESONANCE !!!!

Hans von Lieven

Yeh KneeDeep, I noticed that one too. As always Hans, you've got a great way of zooming in on the "coincidentals".!
I was wondering if anybody might stumble across a self tuning circuit running synchronistically with the earth's natural heatbeat.
Duff, your measurements may have revealed more than you realize. Good on ya, .... KneeDeep........

Oh yeh, Hans, speaking of resonance, I haven't had much time to check out your Keely stuff lately.
I hope you're progressing in a manner you'd like to. Interesting stuff. - Not quite my field so I get a little out of depth......KneeDeep.... when I read some of postings on the Keely forums.

Cheers all from the Toad who Hops

Hi Guys, 

I hope you are having fun playing with electronics and trying to duplicate this circuit. 
Nice work duff, I see you've got it working.   Very interesting observation that it drifts up to 7.3 Hz, the Schumann Resonance.


I see I might have confused people with the number of turns, but BEP is right on.    The 30 turn coil was formed from 2 of the windings on the ferrite which each had 15 turns.  That's all.    Why did I do that?   Just because I wanted more turns so I hooked two coils in SERIES.

The center tap on the top coil was from another project so ignore it, it's not being used.

Bruce, If you want to get a long running time, use a high resistor value and capacitor.  In my latest results, I used 1 Mega ohm and played around with a 1.5 uF,  3.3 uF,   a 10 uF and 22 uF capacitor.  I think the 22 uF gave the longest run time, but the others were impressive too.   Think about it,  with each pulse some energy is lost, even though it's being recycled.   So if you space the pulses apart longer, it lasts longer, at least that's how I think about it.   It's that RC time constant concept.

I'll make another photo from the top, and I'll remove that middle tap on the trigger coil.

EM

P.S.  Added photo.  Notice I removed the center tap on the TOP coil (trigger coil) since it served no function, and also I removed the 400 ohm resistor by the large cap (since I'm convinced now it won't run away  LOL  )  but I left the diode on the board, since it's frail and I don't want to break the leads off.   Basicaly, some of you have the circuit running, and that's all there is to it.