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Author Topic: Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications  (Read 1704205 times)

Pirate88179

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #675 on: January 03, 2008, 06:17:43 AM »
Apology to Freezer and Artic Knight.

I am sorry.  I did not mean to confuse the two of you guys.  It was a very busy day here and it is now 8 degrees F outside. My brain, what is left of it, was not working very well.

@Joe:

Thanks for pointing that out. What do you think of the idea though?

Bill

jeanna

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #676 on: January 03, 2008, 07:26:25 AM »
well the volt is how high the wave is and the amp is how long the wave is, 

Arctic_Knight
Thanks for this explanation. It helps. I understand frequency in music etc but this may be what I need to be able to translate it into circuits.

I can't understand what it is that you tune when you are tuning a circuit for frequency.

I did a little indoors experiment today. It is sort of my next step to Bill's circuit.
I put together the 2 LED circuits that I have. (I drew both of them the other day.) One has a green LED and a series cap made of two 0.047F supercaps in parallel to the light, and the  other one  has a red LED with two 1F supercaps in parallel. I ran these neg to pos neg to pos then an 8 " piece of wire making a ring back to the first neg. I put the leads of a battery with 2.7V between the legs of just one LED-Caps unit.
Both lights lit up and stayed lit for an hour on a 60 second charge. I repeated this 4 times and checked the voltage on the battery before and after each application. It went down by about 0.01v with each application. Sometimes it went down more than that just after the application but was recovered later.  The battery started with 2.73 volts and now is 2.71 volts.

The other thing is that making a loop in the same way but with only the {red plus 2 caps all in parallel} set., the connecting wire got hot and started to burn. Then when I added the other one, the {green LED with one series cap in parallel} set, everything is as I described.

If this is too hard to follow I will make a drawing.

Please understand that the reason I am resorting to using a chemical battery for now is that I have just under what I need to start my circuit with the earth battery and I am just getting my circuit ready while I wait for the carbon rod.  And I thought you should know because the results are so promissing.

I think mramos's jule thief might help move things along the earth battery too. I will be putting one of those together to try.

jeanna

Pirate88179

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #677 on: January 03, 2008, 07:44:33 AM »
@ Jeanna:

Great work.  Good idea to test your circuits with the battery before going outside to freeze.  What is a joule thief?
I have seen this mentioned a few times on the forum and I have no idea what it is, or what it does, or how to make one. It sounds like a very effieicent circuit but, what do I know?

Bill

jeanna

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #678 on: January 03, 2008, 09:05:08 PM »
@ Jeanna:

Great work.  Good idea to test your circuits with the battery before going outside to freeze.  What is a joule thief?
I have seen this mentioned a few times on the forum and I have no idea what it is, or what it does, or how to make one. It sounds like a very effieicent circuit but, what do I know?

Bill
Bill,
It is a small circuit that extracts the unused juice remaining in a battery. It seems to greatly enhance the useability of any voltage/amperage that is there. It may enhance our earth batteries.

Take a look at these 2 sites for a joule thief.

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/joule.htm
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/joulethief

The second one is a little video that makes it look easy. (Now that I have a "helping hand" to hold some of the parts while I solder!)

I just saw something strange in my new circuit. I will see if I can figure it out before I describe it. Sometimes I don't trust my meter, then sometimes it seems perfect. I think I expect it to do odd things.

I have a request.
Would you please (did you already?)  measure the voltage across the 2 leads of your LED? I am asking for these when it is no longer connected to the battery and is closed in a loop.
 The other number I want to know from your circuit is the voltage of the rest of it. The voltage across everything that is excluded from the led-cap part.
thank you,
jeanna

hansvonlieven

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #679 on: January 03, 2008, 09:31:45 PM »
Stubblefield continued

Here is another article I came across on the net that I feel is relevant. It is about an experiment trying to replicate some of Dr. Hooper?s work on what he termed ?Motional E-Fields?.

The author is only known as ?Sparky?.

                                           The Motional E-Field.

This is one of my most interesting projects that I have kept private. While experimenting for several years on this project, I decided to release what information I have concerning this extremely exciting subject. The experiments I will explain could Kill you. Use Extreme caution. You have been warned, proceed at your own risk.

Lots of folks have tried in vain to build a machine that exploits the Motional E Field. The problem is a basic understanding of HOW it works. Notice, I did not say why it works. I don?t have a clue as to WHY it works. I have read everything I could find on the subject, it is vague on what?s out there about it. I will leave WHY it works to Bearden, Sweet, Kaluza-Klien and others who profess to know this. I do recommend reading "Nothing is Something" by Floyd Sweet found with a good search program. But even then he is trying to explain where this mystery potential is coming from, instead of explaining how to actually build a device to produce it.

A normal wound coil has induction. A Bifilar coil connected in reverse-Parallel {Ends Tied} has very little. We will use both in a device to exploit the MEF. The experiment will be just that, not a full time working device ready to power your house or car. Purchase {3} rolls of 24 gauge at 100 feet each magnet wire. I use the GC brand part# L3-612. Gather {2} empty plastic spools with a 1 inch bore. The GC brand comes on these 1 inch bore spools, very handy. Take {2} rolls of the 24 gauge wire and wind them on a empty spool. We are making a bifilar coil. Take your time and wind it carefully keeping the wires together as you wind. You need good balanced bifilar coil. Make sure the wires are the same length, 100 feet. When you get through, clip the ends equal and tie them together. Now test your bifilar wire. It must NOT conduct any electrical potential and or current. Hold it next to a spinning magnet assembly of sorts with a good meter set on AC. Nothing.... it must not conduct anything, this is very important. The bifilar coil will be your pick up coil, but NOT as NORMAL electrical conduction. Take your last roll of wire and leave it on the spool and we will use it as the exciter coil. These coils have no cores, and you will see why later.

Find or purchase {2} ferrite magnets 2" x 6" x 1" will do. We are only doing an experiment.

You will not have a continuous output, so go this route first. Do not use Neo's, their lattice domains are very tight. You will have to demagnetize these magnets to about 10 to 20 gauss. How you do it is up to you. One can wrap the magnets with magnet wire and dump cap voltage against the fields, or use heat. This is common, so I won?t go into that procedure here. Once the magnets are demagnetized, we need to treat them. We need to impress a 60 Hz field in the now loosened domains of the magnets. Wrap the magnets separately with 100 feet of #19 or #20 wire each. Wire these in series and connect them to a veriac on the lowest level. Go do something else for 2 or 3 hours. You can build conditioning coils on forms that slide over the magnets for easy removal and installation. After 2 or 3 hours remove the coils and check the magnets with a scope. You should see a weak 60 hz signal on the magnets. Carefully place the bifilar coil and the exciter coil between the {2} magnets. Space them as far apart as possible without the spools hanging off the edges of the magnets. use plastic ties to keep them in place.

Connect the Exciter coil to a generator at 8 to 12 volts at 2 to 3 ma at 60hz. Place a load across the bifilar coil, such as a light. See if the bulb will flash. If it does, place more bulbs in line with the load. It may even blow the bulb. This field is regulated by load. You may have to experiment with the exciter voltage to get the effect to occur. All one wishes to do is vibrate the magnet. do not overdrive the magnet with the exciter voltage. This will not last long, the magnets will loose the 60Hz signal. Perhaps Barium ferrite IS needed to keep the 60hz signal or the whole design is not shielded properly or it will always run down. Barium has high electron emissivity and promotes electron scattering when excited. The point is: Something of the electrical nature lit the bulbs from a non-conductive coil. The bifilar coil was not connected to anything but the bulbs placed between the {2} treated magnets.

Now, HOW it works. As current flows through a wire the electrons act like magnets when they MOVE. Now if they don?t move, they just have a electrical field around them. If we move this current through the bifilar coil, the magnetism cancels. But moving the electron magnetism will actually add. The magnet domains have been loosened. Their domains are not locked in a position they can shuttle some what within the structure. But they still have a very small amount of magnetism. It is like billions of small magnets vibrating about the domains because of the 60hz exciter coil. They also have a 60hz signal that we supplied to the magnets. Because they have a slight charge on top of being small magnets the E-Field will manifest into the bifilar coil. But this is not the normal conductive current. In fact any normal conductive current abounds, it will cancel the effect. This is the reason the bifilar coil must be made so carefully. You MUST have the least amount of induction in your bifilar coil as possible. This is the reason I use no core. I want a small exciter signal that does not interfere with the bifilar coil, so the exciter coil has no core either.

All the exciter coil does is vibrate the domains which have the 60hz signal placed on all those billions of atoms already that are very slightly magnetized in the domains. Moving a electrical charge against another charge by separate wire cancels the magnetism in both wires and adds.

 This is the Motional E-Field.

I have added this graphic to show the experimental arrangement.
(http://keelytech.com/overunity/e-field.jpg)
   
This experiment is of interest because here we see again the creation of a perpendicular field similar to what Stubblefield, Barbat and others are relying on, in line with Barbat?s interpretation of Helmholtz.

Hans von Lieven

Pirate88179

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #680 on: January 03, 2008, 11:17:00 PM »
@ Jeanna:

I just measured the volts on my circuit which has been sitting in the house since this weekend's experiments posted earlier. (led + lead not connected)  From the - side of the cap, which is also the - lead of the led to the pluse lead of the led I got 1.62vdc.  I checked mA just for the heck of it and got 6.12mA but it began to fall off as I guess the meter is basically shorting it.  It falls off when I check a battery for mA.  I am not sure I understand your other question.  Tell me what you want to know, and I will check it.  Thanks for the great info on Joule thiefs.  Just when I think I am learning something, along comes so much more that I need to learn.  But, learning is fun!  Thanks again.

@ Hans:

This motional E field theory is fantastic.  This is the first time I read of a bifilar coil arrangement where they actually tell you what to do with all of the ends of the wires from the windings.  I have several coils lying around here but have no idea what to do with them.  More to study now.  Thanks for finding this great information.


Bill

hansvonlieven

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #681 on: January 03, 2008, 11:30:36 PM »
@ Bill,

There are a number of ways to connect bi-filar coils, each with different properties. More in further posts.

Hans

jeanna

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #682 on: January 03, 2008, 11:50:36 PM »
@ Jeanna:

I just measured the volts on my circuit which has been sitting in the house since this weekend's experiments posted earlier. (led + lead not connected)  From the - side of the cap, which is also the - lead of the led to the pluse lead of the led I got 1.62vdc.  I checked mA just for the heck of it and got 6.12mA but it began to fall off as I guess the meter is basically shorting it.  It falls off when I check a battery for mA.  I am not sure I understand your other question.  Tell me what you want to know, and I will check it.  Thanks for the great info on Joule thiefs.  Just when I think I am learning something, along comes so much more that I need to learn.  But, learning is fun!  Thanks again.
Bill
Well it may not be an issue with the single set that you have. I think what I am seeing is something that is an interaction between the 2 sets.

If I check the voltage across either set ( cap end to cap end of either the green set or the red set) I get a voltage and they are both exactly the same. However if I check the voltage across  "outside of those caps in just the wire that hooks them together, there is nothing. So, I am interpreting this to mean that since there is no load to draw current there is no more movement of any kind. I plan to add a LED just by itself across the plain wire to check this, but I first need to go to radio shack. And I would like verification from your single cap type of circuit set.

Just the wire alone. The part that doesn't do anything but touch the LED/cap circuit.

I will make a drawing, I think.

jeanna

cub3

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #683 on: January 04, 2008, 12:57:52 AM »
Jenna

A good article on LED's and Joule thief circuts.

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/LEDTorchCircuits/LEDTorchCircuits-P1.html

Den

jeanna

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #684 on: January 04, 2008, 01:59:34 AM »
Jenna

A good article on LED's and Joule thief circuts.

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/LEDTorchCircuits/LEDTorchCircuits-P1.html

Den
Thanks, Den

I just bought the list for another joule thief. And since it is now pouring rain again, I may just build it. :)

jeanna

Artic_Knight

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #685 on: January 04, 2008, 02:20:15 AM »
i dont know how much knowledge of this topic is known to the people of the forum but the jule thief works because A. it ups the voltage through the coil and lowers the amps, (when voltage is raised this way the amps gets lowered) and B because it is pulsed. 

i like coils, for instance since i have .52 volt and need 1.7 roughly to operate my led i could take a coil and on the led side wrap 3.5 times the wire that i wrap for the battery input this will allow my led side with 3 times the wire have 3 times the volts that was put in, but then i will be left with .75 miliamp which means i will need to pulse it to power the led. i dont fully understand how to pulse but thats what the transistor is for. this curcuit could be more effecient i think with a cap but not certain of that.  for instance take the current and pipe it strait into a cap then take it out in pulses, this will only work if the cap is going to have the output voltage of 1.5 1.7 volts that i need not sure about that either if a cap can change the energy or not. 

what they are using is simply a step up transformer :D they could tap even more current if they add more windings and slow the pulses. then they could light the led after the power is seemingly gone.

jeanna

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #686 on: January 04, 2008, 02:30:44 AM »
i dont know how much knowledge of this topic is known to the people of the forum but the jule thief works because A. it ups the voltage through the coil and lowers the amps, (when voltage is raised this way the amps gets lowered) and B because it is pulsed. 

Thanks Arctic Knight
I want to see. I sort of thought it was the pulses that made it use less but seem like more. But if it reduces the already almost non existent amperage of the earth battery, it won't work. but on the chance I will make one. If nothing else, I will be able to squeeze the juice out of dead batteries to run my LED 'candles'.

I am having trouble understanding what is happening with oscillating currents. I think it is important so I want get my hands on them. I think it is the only way.

jeanna

jeanna

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #687 on: January 04, 2008, 02:38:07 AM »
@ Jeanna:

I just measured the volts on my circuit which has been sitting in the house since this weekend's experiments posted earlier. (led + lead not connected)  From the - side of the cap, which is also the - lead of the led to the pluse lead of the led I got 1.62vdc. 
Bill
I think if you connect the thing into a ring it will be what I am looking for??
jeanna

Pirate88179

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #688 on: January 04, 2008, 02:51:51 AM »
@ Jeanna:

Ring?  What do you mean by ring?  A frined of mine stopped by today (he is also a PI) and I turned off the lights and showed him my led circuit.  His direct quote was "Holly Crap!"  He said the led was very bright, as do I.  But, according to the numbers, as mramos said, this should be nowhere near full brightness, but, he shined it around my kitchen and said it was brighter than his keychain led that he also uses on surveillance.  That keychain light uses three, like mine, hearing aid type batteries.  So, this leads me to believe that possibly there is more power here than we are measuring.  I know this sounds like false hope, and I try not to do that, but, my led should not even begin to light until 1.7 vdc and I posted ( in response to your question) a voltage lower than that.  That is the voltage used when my friend viewed the light output.  "Very bright" he also said.  I realize that this is very subjective but, interesting non the less.  I also showed him how I can power three leds on the circuit, well, the original one and two flashing ones.  He was impressed.  I could have put this out for my Christmas lights but tried it too late. So, you are getting a carbon rod?

Bill

Freezer

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Re: Earth battery expermients
« Reply #689 on: January 04, 2008, 03:05:40 AM »
Quote from article -

[How to cheat!
There is a secret way to make a lemon-cell light up an incandescent bulb. You have to cheat. Buy yourself a "super capacitor" or "memory backup capacitor" via mail-order surplus. They cost a few dollars. You want a value between 0.1 farad and 0.5 farads. Try one of these suppliers:

    * All Electronics
    * Electronics Goldmine
    * Jameco Electronics

To light a bulb, first build a lemon battery and connect it to the terminals of the supercapacitor. (Me, I use alligator clip-leads bought from Radio Shack.) Wait for a few minutes. Now connect your flashlight bulb to the supercapacitor terminals and it should light brightly for a few seconds. (If not, then remove the bulb and try connecting your lemon cell to the capacitor for 15 minutes to make sure the capacitor gathers enough energy.) The capacitor slowly collects electrical energy from the lemon battery, then it dumps that energy into the flashlight bulb over a very short time. You can even use this trick to let your lemon battery run a low-voltage buzzer or turn a small motor (look for "solar cell motors" from various mail order suppliers or Radio Shack.) As with the bulb, you must charge up the capacitor for many minutes, then use it to run your bulb or motor for a few seconds.]

http://amasci.com/miscon/miscon4.html#lemon

I built 4 sets of 4 plate cells in series and tried them in water.  It gets about 4.2mA at around 3.2volts.  It lights one of my leds pretty bright, and some at medium brightness, which run at 4.5volts.  I used a 5.5v | .022f capacitor and it increases the power on only one of my lower power leds.  You notice a little increase in brightness, but It didn't work with other leds.