Author Topic: Circuit setups for pulse motors (Read 269835 times)

capthook · « **Reply #420 on:** March 20, 2008, 03:47:09 AM »

Synchronous rectifiers can offer a further 4% reduction in losses over the already efficient schottky diode rectifier. (using individual schottky diode recitication can offer 50% reduction in losses over traditional silicon diodes/store bought rectifiers) The circuit below is for a transformer application - but could be adopted/modified for many applications.

- - - -
In this circuit, synchronous rectifiers SR2 (Q2 and D2) and SR3 (Q3 and D3) are crosscoupled to the
secondary winding of the transformer and are directly driven by the secondary voltage. Since no
driver or control circuit is used to provide the gate-drive signals, this implementation of
synchronous rectification is the simplest possible.
- - - -

Now if I only knew the required parameters for Q2/D2 and Q3/D3 and how to actually apply/build the circuit to rectify the ouput from my coils!!

- - -

As to the reed switch spark - I've coupled a ZNR (Panasonic part #: ERZ-V05D820) to the reed to eliminate/reduce spark. This protects the reed switch and will result in longer life. Also - a spark is energy being released into the atmosphere - I'd rather keep it in the circuit!

CH

hoptoad · « **Reply #421 on:** March 20, 2008, 10:19:58 AM »

Quote from: tropes on March 19, 2008, 03:13:08 PM

Hi Hop
Could you re-post that one you deleted. I think it dealt with the use of Mosfets and I would like to see a circuit that replaces my TIP102 Darlington pair with a Mosfet. The circuit I'm using was given to me by Gyulasun who makes things simple for me and I posted it a while back.
Tropes

I can't remember what I said.....

Doh! Maybe thats why I deleted it.

If you're using the Opto-Coupler OPB490, (10K Pull up mode), then you should be able to simply substitute your TIP102 with an appropriate
Mosfet. The output impedance and voltage bias is perfectly suited to driving power mosfets.

Below is a link to Dick Smith Electronics (Australia).
http://dseau.resultspage.com/search.php?p=Q&ts=p2&sessionid=47e23388070637da273fc0a87f9c06ba&w=mosfets&uid=273108518&af=&ct=&site=&submit.x=13&submit.y=8

They don't carry a huge selection, but they do carry the sort of power switching Mosfets which are perfectly suited to pulsed systems. Just use the site page as a guideline to whats available. The decision to use N channel or P channel, is a matter of builder preference and / or specific circuit requirements.

The BUK456-60A has a PDF spec sheet. See link below
http://www.dse.com.au/isroot/dse/support/Z1853.pdf

Unfortunately the others seem to have broken links.

The BUK456 / 7 range of Mosfets shown on the page are high power mosfets. One is MAX rated at 600Volts 8Amps, the other is 60Volts 60Amps.

Both are ideally suited to your needs, and either one will probably be a perfect "in place" substitute for your TIP102.
If you intend to produce undamped high voltage spikes, then the BUK457-600B is the best candidate. It only handles 8A current max, but its likely you'll be aiming for currents way below that anyway.

Be sure to handle Mosfets carefully until they are installed into a circuit, because the gates are prone to electrostatic damage. Read up a little on anti static handling procedures if you're unsure. When you buy Mosfets, they should be packaged in an antistatic bag, wrap or mould or foil shield. If the outlet doesn't sell them to you with some sort of obvious shielding, then don't buy them from that outlet. They may already be damaged.

Cheers and KneeDeep

capthook · « **Reply #422 on:** March 21, 2008, 12:23:10 AM »

.......or you could try this US electronics component supplier:

http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/digihome.html

Excellent/cheapest magnet supplier:

http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php

Wire supplier:

http://www.bulkwire.com/

CH

tropes · « **Reply #423 on:** March 21, 2008, 01:12:18 AM »

Quote from: hoptoad on March 20, 2008, 10:19:58 AM

The BUK456-60A has a PDF spec sheet. See link below
http://www.dse.com.au/isroot/dse/support/Z1853.pdf
Cheers and KneeDeep

Thanks Hop
I was able to order some BUK457-500B MOSFET's from a local supplier.
Tropes

capthook · « **Reply #424 on:** March 25, 2008, 09:14:27 AM »

Update on generator coil construction:

I have finalized my coil construction after winding/comparing 24 different styles.

Examples: All wound to the same winding dimensions 1" x 1" on 3" core.
Each coils airgap adjusted to result in similar "drag" on rotor. 3/4 x 1/2 button N42 mags N/S.

Air cores and "sheath" cores have been eliminated as output of both were sub-par.

1) #22 wire / 3/8" tap bolt: .1 volts @ .0075 mA = 0.00075 mW

2) #26 wire / 3/8" tap bolt: .34 volts @ 4 mA = 1.36 mW

3) #30 wire / 5/16 tap bolt with head cut off: 2.3 volts @ 21 mA = 48 mW

Smaller wire RULES for generator coils. #1 is standard type coil - #3 is modified with smaller wire, smaller core, no head for smaller air gap.

#3 will produce 64,000 times the power over #1.

I am winding coils of the #3 variety for my project. Custom nylon washers cut using hole saw for "bobbin" ends. Each winding layer wrapped with 1 layer 1" masking tape. Finished coil wrapped 1 layer electrical tape. (rather than cutting head off bolt - you could use threaded rod - no head - I couldn't find any the right size. A jigsaw with a metal blade takes the head off in like 20 seconds though - so no problem)

If you are going to use seperate generator/"pickup" coils in your project - try it out. Wind #1 style then #3 style - it will blow you away! Even bifilar - use a smaller wire for your pickup..........

I never tried "magnetite" or iron powder cores or even laminated cores. I would love to hear from anyone who has done so and would like to share their results!

But I need to build now - enough testing already!!! $:-\$

CH

capthook · « **Reply #425 on:** March 31, 2008, 10:21:45 AM »

On reed switches:

Will placing a "backing" magnet behind the reed switch to reduce it's sensitivity cause a failure/improper operation over time as the reed switch will become magnetized by the "backing" magnet?

The AT 22/28 reeds (1A, 250V) I got are WAY to sensitive! My .75" x .25" N42 mags will activate it from 2" .

I'm thinking I can't even get one that will provide the desired 1/4" activiation zone??

What AT rating are you guys using?

Can someone recommend an AT rating that I should try?

CH

capthook · « **Reply #426 on:** April 01, 2008, 05:11:53 AM »

b-u-m-p

??

capthook · « **Reply #427 on:** April 06, 2008, 08:30:15 AM »

Circuit to limit power draw from capacitor?

I want to limit my 4700 uF 35 V capacitor that is charged to between 2V to 16 V from dumping it's charge all at once.

I would like the capacitor to provide 1.5 volts to the load. What do I need to do? What about amps (.5 A)?

I could put diodes in between the capacitor and load for voltage drops - but the capacitors charge will vary from 2V to 16V....

CH

Nastrand2000 · « **Reply #428 on:** April 06, 2008, 06:35:15 PM »

Hey capt,

You can use a voltage regulator to control the voltage to the load. They can be picked up from radioshack.
Jason

gyulasun · « **Reply #429 on:** April 06, 2008, 10:37:54 PM »

Yes, you can use a switch mode DC/DC converter as the voltage regulator, that gives out 1.5V at 0.5A, see this chip here on page 17 and 18 of this data sheet but of course there are several other integrated circuits from different manufacturers:
http://www.linear.com/pc/downloadDocument.do?navId=H0,C1,C1003,C1042,C1032,C1082,P37748,D25042

However you have to combine a switch in series with your 4700uF in the wire leading to the DC/DC converter to disconnect it (and its load at 1.5V) when the DC voltage of the capacitor goes down to about 3V or so (usually converter chips do not work at 2V, it's too small for them). The switch should be combined with a voltage sensor circuit like a simple voltage comparator to sense the charged state of your capacitor between 3V and 16V.
There is a patent application on just such a circuit you need, it is US20070222411 from Jean-Michel Cour.
(go here http://www.pat2pdf.org/ and copy and paste 20070222411 to freely download this patent)

Of course if you study thorougly the patent description you can figure out what you need from it. (hint: Capacitor #14 in Fig. 1 will be your 4700uF and Battery #16 will be replaced by (the input of) the DC/DC converter IC from above or from elsewhere.

rgds, Gyula

capthook · « **Reply #430 on:** April 07, 2008, 02:59:51 AM »

Thanks so much for the replies!

I'm trying to use capacitor charge ( I think I'll need a much bigger capacitor) to power my pulse coils @ .40 watts (for about 1/2 sec). This is the last part of the circuit I need. So it's not just voltage regulation, but also current regulation - the resistance of my coil is 10 ohm. A linear regulator is out as the "waste" heat is a non-starter.... so looks like the best solution is the switched-mode conversion.

I found this part that seems to offer what I need - and easy to implement:

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SWADJ.htm

Is this a good solution? At $15 it's a bit spendy - but if it will do what I need....then ok!

I guess I'll pick up the radio shack part first - as it's cheaper and easy to get and mess around with it...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062601&cp=&sr=1&origkw=voltage+regulator&kw=voltage+regulator&parentPage=search

gyulasun: would this be the part?

http://www.linear.com/pc/productDetail.jsp?navId=H0,C1,C1003,C1042,C1032,C1082,P37748

At ~ $3.00 - bring it on!! And I guess then a small resistor of (x? ohms) to drop output from 1.65 watts to .5 watts? Or one that will output .5 watts?

And with a large enough capacitor, I shouldn't have to worry about min. input available?

The information you guys provided is helpful for where to start - now to get my head around it!
(I didn't realize this aspect of the project would be so complicated!

But the only way to prove to the nay-sayers of OU is to take batteries/external supply out of the picture and self-run it! )

All suggestion/recommendations/ideas/help EXTREMELY welcome!

CH

hoptoad · « **Reply #431 on:** April 07, 2008, 10:00:40 AM »

Quote from: capthook on April 07, 2008, 02:59:51 AM

..... But the only way to prove to the nay-sayers of OU is to take batteries/external supply out of the picture and self-run it! )

All suggestion/recommendations/ideas/help EXTREMELY welcome!

CH

Good luck with that

..... KneeDeep ...... A suggestion ; study the art of patience and dealing with frustration...

Cheers all

Ren · « **Reply #432 on:** April 07, 2008, 10:14:14 AM »

ROFL @ toad!

Its funny cause its true

capthook · « **Reply #433 on:** April 07, 2008, 10:36:49 AM »

Hello hoptoad! Patience? That is - in fact - one of my short-comings

Frustration on the other hand - can actually turn to satisfaction once the obstacle has been overcome.

I've been working like 10 hours a day for the last 3 months on my project - 10 protypes built.
I am now ready to begin building my first "finished" model starting tommorrow - so yes - I am "anxious" to realize the fruits of my labors. Testing and protypes calculate to a large OU.
Thanks for the past input you have provided - I'm always interested in insight from "the one who hops"

Hi Ren - loved your videos/builds ... how is it coming along? Building anything at the moment?
Any knowledge you would like to impart to my (crowded) brain?

... and I don't quite get the joke.... but I'm willing to laugh at my own expense

The knowlege I have gained here has been invaluable in pursing my goal - thanks!

CH

Ren · « **Reply #434 on:** April 07, 2008, 11:40:52 AM »

Capthook, I admire your patience and dedication, I wish you well in your quest. I have learnt a number of valuable lessons and insights over the past six months, and lets just say that I am no longer obsessing after overunity like I have in the past. I have realised that if one truely wants to see the endless possibilities of our world one must obsess over the truth. One must know everything about the nature of energy. After all, how can you master something that you dont fully understand? Lets just say I have a long road ahead, but I am looking forward to it.

I still continue to build, its one of my passions and I dont think that will change. I am also happy to offer any advice in regards to Bedinis work, as that is what I have mainly studied in the past. Im working on a 16 pole monopole with a fixed shaft for driving a timing wheel for pulsed discharge on the back end at the moment. I have plans for a window motor replication in the works, but who knows where my studies will take me. Keep an eye out, I'll keep putting up vids and stuff, and I'll always remember the friends and fellow experimenters I met in these threads.

All the best

Edit: Ditto to Toads post below! I know how you feel!

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Author Topic: Circuit setups for pulse motors (Read 269835 times)

capthook

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