Author Topic: Parts list d14 (Read 11822 times)

saintpoida · « **Reply #15 on:** September 03, 2007, 02:39:45 PM »

bifiler hmm.. think i read somewhere in his stuff about this

might have a look for it again since i havent done anything with this yet
im still trying to understand it all...

schematic would be cool just to see how hard / easy it is!

SwinG · « **Reply #16 on:** September 03, 2007, 02:51:50 PM »

Quote

I can find and post the schematic for mine, I think I added RS232 as well? But you would need to get a programmer to program the PIC chip. This I went 12F683 (8 pin with ADC, $1.20 range in the US)

That would be great

It would be a lot easier with a PCB layout too, but you can't have everything, can you

I would still need the PIC SW though. Is it possible for you to grab that, and send in a *.bin file or something? Don't know if you have access to a PIC programmer, to DL the SW. I'll find a way to program the bastard then

What I need:

PCB layout
Parts diagram
Parts list
PIC soft ware

Actually I would rather have someone send me the circuit. It's a bit unfair to exploit a good souls hard works, isn't it?
Anyway, when I can't get it shipped to Denmark, I'm leaved with few choices.

Let's get these replications going

Thanks
SwinG

Gheller J · « **Reply #17 on:** September 04, 2007, 06:16:57 PM »

NEW UPDATED D14-Sept '04

Posted a few minutes ago on radianth2o group

I've uploaded the updated attachment in Stanley Meyer Replication thread

Gh. J.

saintpoida · « **Reply #18 on:** September 11, 2007, 06:10:37 AM »

so what about cutting of the steel tubes?

what do people use to cut the tubes angle grinders, bansaws, hacksaws, jigsaws??

and what is most effective in giving smoothest cut?

keithturtle · « **Reply #19 on:** September 11, 2007, 09:20:56 AM »

Y'all can use a chop saw or grinder, jes be sure to clean yer cuts good. The heat will cause a disruption in the magnetic properties, mostly on 304, so annealing is recommented for the purist.

I've used both 304 and 316L in the tubes and plates.
316L stays cleaner.

I ain't that pure so I jes put it together after getting it all the same color and passivation.

Turtle

saintpoida · « **Reply #20 on:** September 11, 2007, 09:31:03 AM »

what is passivation?

keithturtle · « **Reply #21 on:** September 14, 2007, 08:31:26 AM »

Boiled in acid. The process uses acid to remove any traces of Fe in the surface of yer pipes / plates. Then when ye run 'em they don't turn brown.

Big in the food industry so SS doesn't contaminate food with traces of rust.

Iron cain'toxidise if it ain't there.
I use a one-step process and a chemical called citrisurf.

http://www.stellarsolutions.net/2050data.htm

SOak 11 min at 80-'C then rinse with distilled water. Handle plates with gloved hands forever thereafter [no skin oils]

Turtle

saintpoida · « **Reply #22 on:** September 14, 2007, 09:00:39 AM »

oh ok so thats similar to the idea of annealing?

Pete

keithturtle · « **Reply #23 on:** September 15, 2007, 03:43:55 AM »

not really. Annealing is a heat process, where passivationg uses chemical action to git rid of free Fe. The heat jes accellerates it. It would work cold, jes slower.

Annealing helps when, after "working" a piece, residual magnetic fields are eliminated.

Fe (free iron) is what turns the water brown and precipitates to the bottom.

Keith

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Author Topic: Parts list d14 (Read 11822 times)

saintpoida

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