Author Topic: Stanley Meyer replication with low input power (Read 828951 times)

Spewing · « **Reply #540 on:** October 01, 2007, 04:38:20 AM »

Now that everything is cleared up. i really hope whomever watches my video "In Memory Of Stanley Meyers" can kick back and appreciate it for what it is and what it was meant to be. Stanly was a smart man and i respect him and i always will.

Hydrocars

RunningBare · « **Reply #541 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:01:16 AM »

Actually Spewing, you made a very good even if unintentional point with that video.

Others should note the confusion and how easy it is to see the wrong thing, despite the mains motor being an obvious componant in the setup some folk only saw the 9 volt battery and straight away assumed this to be the only source of power,
Please guys, do yourself a favor, get all the information before jumping to conclusions, but I'll give you a little hint, a 9 volt battery of that size would have burnt out in seconds trying to power that alternator, the only thing the battery was powering were the 555 chips and LED.

Quote from: Spewing on October 01, 2007, 04:38:20 AM

Now that everything is cleared up. i really hope whomever watches my video "In Memory Of Stanley Meyers" can kick back and appreciate it for what it is and what it was meant to be. Stanly was a smart man and i respect him and i always will.

Hydrocars

esaruoho · « **Reply #542 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:04:41 AM »

Quote from: TheNOP on September 30, 2007, 07:13:03 PM

My understanding is that Tesla also studied pulsed DC.

im really surprised nobody even bothered to read the erfinder suggested tesla patent "apparatus for creating ozone".
in the last page, where the claims are, it is completely obvious that he is talking about pulsed DC being used to create the ozone.
http://www.tesla.hu/tesla/patents/p-568177.068/index.htm

theres something there in pulsed DC, and possibly an understanding of the patent would assist in understanding how to improve the stanley meyer replication.

RunningBare · « **Reply #543 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:35:49 AM »

To a coil AC and pulsed DC are very much the same, anything that produces a changing current at a high enough frequency in a coil will produce a changing magnetic field and skin effect, but a coil powered by steady DC might as well just be a long length of wire, it has no effect except to introduce a DC resistance.

Quote from: esaruoho on October 01, 2007, 08:04:41 AM

im really surprised nobody even bothered to read the erfinder suggested tesla patent "apparatus for creating ozone".
in the last page, where the claims are, it is completely obvious that he is talking about pulsed DC being used to create the ozone.
http://www.tesla.hu/tesla/patents/p-568177.068/index.htm

theres something there in pulsed DC, and possibly an understanding of the patent would assist in understanding how to improve the stanley meyer replication.

Spewing · « **Reply #544 on:** October 01, 2007, 07:53:26 PM »

i have to admit,,, it is a good invention. if you was to put the alternator onto the car for a second alternator, it hardly needs any torq to run the cell. and you don't need to have a battery connected to it for it to work, i'm assuming with the right diodes this alternator would run 6 cells like mine the way i have it.

i feel it would be worth the trouble. unfortanitly i am not rich, so i cant afford 6 cells, it killed me to get the one i got.

Spewing · « **Reply #545 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:09:58 PM »

my diodes are rated 1000 volts and 30 amps. yet over a amp at 12 volts they get hot. i can understand this because my mosfet runs cool when on a 12 volt battery, but when that 12 volts drops to 11 the mosfet will start heating very quickly. thats why i keep a full charge on my battery.

do any of you know of a diode that is rated at 12 to 20 volts " the voltage varies comming from the alternator", and 18 amps or so that will really supply 18 amps without getting hot??? that would be awsome, i would notepad the part number till i got the money to get them.

RunningBare · « **Reply #546 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:26:25 PM »

If 1000 volt 30 amp diodes are getting hot then the BEMF from the alternator must be higher than a 1000 volts, the volts rating for a diode is its reverse voltage handling capability, if the voltage is higher than the diodes rated voltage then the amps will not matter much because the voltage is going through the diode in reverse heating up the pn junction, even a few milliamps at say 1500 volts is going to be a lot of energy at the diodes pn junction.
If you have a multimeter capable of reading up to 2000 volts, try measuring the voltage at the diodes with respect to the point where the three coils meet.

Quote from: Spewing on October 01, 2007, 08:09:58 PM

my diodes are rated 1000 volts and 30 amps. yet over a amp at 12 volts they get hot. i can understand this because my mosfet runs cool when on a 12 volt battery, but when that 12 volts drops to 11 the mosfet will start heating very quickly. thats why i keep a full charge on my battery.

do any of you know of a diode that is rated at 12 to 20 volts " the voltage varies comming from the alternator", and 18 amps or so that will really supply 18 amps without getting hot??? that would be awsome, i would notepad the part number till i got the money to get them.

Spewing · « **Reply #547 on:** October 01, 2007, 08:49:00 PM »

oh lord, something else i will have to figure out. by any chance you think we should start a new thread in a proper place just to work on getting this system up to par? if so im me somewhere.

i love my alternator lol

saintpoida · « **Reply #548 on:** October 02, 2007, 12:01:45 AM »

i have started conditioning and after 1 run through of the 7 steps (i missed step 7 cause it was too much effort for that amount of time) my inner tubes are already going white.

Fair bit of brown stuff gets generated in the early steps but less and less as amps go up or maybe its time
its run for goes down i dunno, anyway

I think alot of the brown stuff sediments to the bottom as the bottom of my tubes are getting pretty
dirty, i think that i am gonna have to pull it all apart to clean them which is gonna be a hassle but im
gonna run the cycle a few more times first.

On another note, i just remembered when watching a video on tap water vs purified water he used an
electrolyzer to seperate the water and said the brown muck in tap water was all the impurities, when he
did it with purified water there was almost none, what i find interesting is if that was the case then why after
conditioning the tubes would the brown stuff stop being made if it was related to the water???

gculpex · « **Reply #549 on:** October 02, 2007, 03:21:36 AM »

In other threads they said it was from impurities on the steel( grease. oil).
I wonder about the chlorine that's added to tap water and how this
affects the results.

saintpoida · « **Reply #550 on:** October 02, 2007, 03:28:14 AM »

yeah i wonder how the chlorine affects it too

smells a bit like a swimming pool after i have run through the long duration steps!

anyway so far the tubes are turning white like there supposed to, but the brown stuff
is starting to seriously attach itself to the outer tubes and the bottoms of the inners
so i guess i am gonna have to pull it all apart and clean those areas, hope i dont have to start
from scratch again

we have water restrictions where i live in australia (which means we are supposed to use as little water as possible)
and i feel guilty pouring all this water out lol!

ashtweth_nihilisti · « **Reply #551 on:** October 02, 2007, 06:12:50 AM »

Raiv's Tubes size are coming we need to source the acrylic? in Oz, just a tease for the builders here.

djctek · « **Reply #552 on:** October 02, 2007, 07:28:01 AM »

Hey guys, I have reached 300% efficiency. I bought a donkey, He eats my grass, so I dont have to waste gas mowing, I can use the poo for my garden, he runs on water, and I can ride him to work!

Just kidding, but I did manage to produce hydroxy gas with as little as 7.5 watts of power in the new cell I made and posted some new videos of it working. I have not measured the gas output so I make no claim it is OU. It is made from 8 cone shaped stainless plates as seen in my original video from an old cream separator. Its a new design that has never been done before and It creates some interesting results. Also some screwball videos of me ignighting the bubbles because it's fun!

Check it out..
http://www.youtube.com/VariablePulse

(http://www.frontiernet.net/~djctek/celltopview.jpg)

saintpoida · « **Reply #553 on:** October 02, 2007, 07:36:47 AM »

looks good but its very dark

are you making it that dark on purpose?

anyway from what i can see looks alright you get some big bubbles from the coney things!

djctek · « **Reply #554 on:** October 02, 2007, 07:53:34 AM »

Its dark because it was 4am, Poor lighting, and my camera sucks, I made these videos a few days ago, It was my first try at it, I'm building a device to measure its output and will post it on video for the world to see... Not trying to pull over anything, That's why I stated, I have not measured the gas output, I dont know what it's putting out I just thought it was interesting, the 20 watt video is better than the 14 watt video, but if you look close in the 14 watt, you will see at 1 point the amps @ 2 and the volts @ 3.7ish thus the 7.5 watt reading. I have been busy filling orders for the pulse gen so I have not had much time to play.

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Author Topic: Stanley Meyer replication with low input power (Read 828951 times)

Spewing

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RunningBare

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esaruoho

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RunningBare

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Spewing

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Spewing

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Spewing

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ashtweth_nihilisti

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