Author Topic: Stanley Meyer replication with low input power (Read 828270 times)

peter from oz · « **Reply #450 on:** September 26, 2007, 12:30:35 PM »

Meanwhile back at kindergarden, got dj's black box back, DJ the mosfet was not cactus it had stuffed a 555 and the other one was not well, upgraded the other thingies (resisters, had to look it up) and back to making gas THRU a battery, cooool. Just looked at DJs video, nice to see the dial turning, have found the best production rate is with everything turned to the right, it really pumps out a cloud but am waiting for conditioning to get big bubbles. My new best mate says he can make these boards pretty cheaply (no offence DJ but we are on the other side of the pond) and is in Melbourne, can also do the ferrite wound thingies. He used to make bullet proof electronics for the Defence Dept and is interested in the teccnology, anyone int. give me a PM depending on interest hell give me a price. Also hooked up a comp fan to cool the mosfet, it does get hot.
Regards
Peter

RunningBare · « **Reply #451 on:** September 26, 2007, 12:39:38 PM »

If you can find one, the turning indicator lamp from a car will be a good load test, connect it where the tubes would normally connect, you can also tell if mark/space is working because by varying it you should see the lamp brighten or dim.

Quote from: saintpoida on September 26, 2007, 05:57:41 AM

yeah thanks

i was more wondering if i needed to have some sort of load there or not, but i guess
the multimeter is enough

Thanks again!

saintpoida · « **Reply #452 on:** September 26, 2007, 01:22:52 PM »

sweet one thanks for that i will just rip one outta my car lol!!

djctek · « **Reply #453 on:** September 26, 2007, 05:50:48 PM »

Peter from Oz, good to hear you got things running again, No offense taken - I'm not here to be a sole supplier of PWM's, I'm just here to help out, Building 10 of these units is a 40 hour week on top of running my Computer Business 50+ hours a week. Shipping is expensive across the pond from the states. It would be good for you guys to have a local supplier.

gilles · « **Reply #454 on:** September 26, 2007, 11:37:12 PM »

Heres what I have assembled in my free time this week. Got little tired of my primitive first setup and put together this time 7 tubes of 65cm length. There is no specific calculaton behind the length, I just got 2m length tubes and cut into 3 shorter each. Im in the middle of procces of now gettin rid of the iron muck. One interesting thing though appears. There seems to form a chain of bubbles on top of tubes close to the centre and also around them on the acrylic. When shaked off, they assemble again in short time. Interesting

gilles · « **Reply #455 on:** September 26, 2007, 11:46:31 PM »

forgot to attach ...doh

RunningBare · « **Reply #456 on:** September 27, 2007, 03:14:21 AM »

Really nice setup Gilles, when ya gonna launch it?

only kidding, I'm still waiting to get my mits on some 12 inch tubes, my present setup sucks!

I've coated the outside of my outer tubes with water proof glue so that all energy is concentrated between the gap, cannot see any improvement but no loss either, so I guess it is safe to say the insulating the outside of the outside tubes is ok, at least this will increase the life of the metal a bit.

Quote from: gilles on September 26, 2007, 11:46:31 PM

forgot to attach ...doh

Spewing · « **Reply #457 on:** September 27, 2007, 04:29:47 AM »

if you want to increase the life of your tubes, don't let your tubes touch as in using tie straps or fitting tubes together touching side by side, this will eat the sides of the tubes. i'm very sorry to tell you this but i just wanted you to know before you ran your tubes, if you keep running them the way they are in the picture it will eat lines running from the top all the way down to the bottom.

SORRY.

Btw, Sloted Tubes and More water will Run Cool, your tubes should be in a tank such as stanley meyers to run cool, not in a tank like mine or yours, there is no room for the tubes to breath in our tanks, and will a small amount of water it will heat up faster, a large amount of water dont heat up no where near as quick, i'm not even sure it will heat up if the tubes are vented correctly.

Those are some nice tubes, i hate to see you ruin them. if you want to keep them at a long life get a bigger tank, and bigger is better. Slots is better than one tune longer than the other, it someway circulates the water better, it also makes the hydrogen bubbles get the heak out of the way so other bubbles can take it's place, unlike the longer tube.

RunningBare · « **Reply #458 on:** September 27, 2007, 04:43:41 AM »

If your refering to me, my tubes have more than enough room lol http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=rc0Hay3MBC0

Quote from: Spewing on September 27, 2007, 04:29:47 AM

if you want to increase the life of your tubes, don't let your tubes touch as in using tie straps or fitting tubes together touching side by side, this will eat the sides of the tubes. i'm very sorry to tell you this but i just wanted you to know before you ran your tubes, if you keep running them the way they are in the picture it will eat lines running from the top all the way down to the bottom.

SORRY.

Btw, Sloted Tubes and More water will Run Cool, your tubes should be in a tank such as stanley meyers to run cool, not in a tank like mine or yours, there is no room for the tubes to breath in our tanks, and will a small amount of water it will heat up faster, a large amount of water dont heat up no where near as quick, i'm not even sure it will heat up if the tubes are vented correctly.

Those are some nice tubes, i hate to see you ruin them. if you want to keep them at a long life get a bigger tank, and bigger is better. Slots is better than one tune longer than the other, it someway circulates the water better, it also makes the hydrogen bubbles get the heak out of the way so other bubbles can take it's place, unlike the longer tube.

ashtweth_nihilisti · « **Reply #459 on:** September 27, 2007, 06:32:04 AM »

Gills i love the smell of napalm in the morning it smells like victory

But the universities wont believe oyu have it running, here is a message after we told one university that Ravis and Dave's results where getting reported

""In an enclosed system the energy required to create water from hydrogen and oxygen is exactly the same as that to split water into its components (oxygen and water). The nett result is ÃŽâ€G = 0. This has been known since 1873 and is well established in the Laws of Physics. It can be reviewed at http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/helmholtz.html which quite well describes the electrolysis of water and its recombination in fuel cells. Hence it would be a waste of time for the University getting involved.

Where the client may be getting efficiency (if at all), is in the electrolysis equipment as losses occur in the process, hence an audit of the efficiency of the equipment is probably all that is needed. However it would appear that this has already been done in both India and London.

Consequently I can?t see any role in this for UniQuest or the University .""

Looks like i need to show this guy personally..

Spewing · « **Reply #460 on:** September 27, 2007, 07:37:11 AM »

Here is my Latest Video.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=kdbaFIFcwNw

coolwater · « **Reply #461 on:** September 27, 2007, 08:01:35 AM »

HI all , I made a post the other day and just wanted to know if any one could help me out with the pin configuration of the pots in D14 would appreciate the help thanks
Coolwater

ashtweth_nihilisti · « **Reply #462 on:** September 27, 2007, 08:15:28 AM »

Given to me by a friend

I have wound one version of the bifilar inductors to go in our inductor test bank switch box.
See this image - I believe it explains it quite well. It also explains the benefits of using bifilar inductors over standard inductors.I calculated ages ago that you would need a huge inductance to get the WFC cell stack to resonate! Bifilar may do the trick.

http://overunity.ifrance.com/Magnetricity_com%20___%20NEOGEN%20Dynamo%20Project_fichiers/NEOGEN_BIFILAR.jpg

peter from oz · « **Reply #463 on:** September 27, 2007, 09:28:41 AM »

Hello Hissyfitnihilism, apart from your obvious dislike for Ash are you saying that the latest post wont work or none of this works or you know something we dont, its a fair bet that l dont know much, so just asking out of curiousity and not wanting to inflame any situation
Regards
Peter

PULSED)ReverseH/OfuelcelI · « **Reply #464 on:** September 27, 2007, 10:30:45 AM »

Hello everyone,

For you bifilar chokes, you want high resistance; you won?t get the type of high resistance you need. 26 AWG a copper wire is too thick, 36 AWG is to thick, for maximum resistance use 44 AWG. Or anything above, and use lots of it. 2000 foot for an ideal choke with the kind of capacitors you guys are using, also use a ferrite rod for a core.

The thinner the more you can wind on the rod, plus the thinner the more resistance!

Thanks for that video Hydro!

Peace!

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Author Topic: Stanley Meyer replication with low input power (Read 828270 times)

peter from oz

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