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Author Topic: Potatogunman's newman machine  (Read 20177 times)

potatogunman

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Potatogunman's newman machine
« on: July 14, 2007, 04:38:20 AM »
I tryed it but im not seeing any rotation    Question  ???!!  does the bearings have to be  free turning with out much drag  ...I think i need to use better bearings ???

when i get it qa spin it turns 2 times  then  stops  ....not good :(

I ll  post a pic off my  machine maybe by looking at it you can spot any design flaws

thanks
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potatogunman

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2007, 04:45:42 AM »
when I looked at the top pic   i notice that the batter leads are connected to the same part of the shaft ...  would this cause it to short?
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potatogunman

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2007, 04:47:31 AM »
hmmmm .... I think the coils are to far from the center maybe also  :-\
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Eddy Currentz

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2007, 03:32:02 PM »
Quote from: potatogunman on July 14, 2007, 04:47:31 AM
hmmmm .... I think the coils are to far from the center maybe also  :-\
I think you're right. It's best to have the coil as close to the centerline as possible.  :)
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potatogunman

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2007, 02:37:54 AM »
is there anybody thats use's Skatboard bearings?   what is the I.D  and the O.D of these bearings ?    im  hoping for a 3/8 I.D  .... so I could use a 3/8  steel rod

Would Stainless steel rod work as well ?
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Eddy Currentz

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2007, 06:48:52 AM »
Quote from: potatogunman on July 15, 2007, 02:37:54 AM
is there anybody thats use's Skatboard bearings?   what is the I.D  and the O.D of these bearings ?    im  hoping for a 3/8 I.D  .... so I could use a 3/8  steel rod

Would Stainless steel rod work as well ?
Skateboard bearings are OK, but they're an oddball size to find shafts for. 3/8 is a good universal size to use. Bearings are easy to find and there are a lot of variety of shafts.
You don't want a steel shaft since it will distort the magnetic field. Aluminum is cheap and easy to use and is one of my favorites. Stainless would probably work but it's very expensive and unnecessary.
I take it back what I said about concentrating the windings around the center.  :-[
I wrapped my windings a little tighter today trying to tidy up a bit and it made a big difference in the efficiency of the motor. The motor runs OK but drains the battery like a normal motor. I only got about 3 hours on a 9 volt where I usually get around 10.
So I spread out the coil so it was taller than the rotor magnet, which then restored it's original efficiency.
There is definitely an optimal wrap size for these motors. I don't know what it is yet but I'm going to try a few different configurations.

Ted
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potatogunman

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2007, 02:25:01 AM »
Well i stripped my  newman machine  down    ..i m   going to start over...this week im going to get some good high speed 3/8 I.D  bearings and a Shaft.

i think i can score a psc of Stainless rod  316 grade   for free....  i  guess it would work seeing it dosent  Magnetize....but it will conduct electric!!

back to the drawing board ;D
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potatogunman

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2007, 04:56:41 PM »
hello all!!!   i ve  finally made my neuman machine ive tryed wiring it up the same way as that schimatic on the replica page  here is a drawing of how its run at the moment
is it right or is it operating as a regular moter

ill post a  video tonight   ;D
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RunningBare

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2007, 10:39:01 PM »
 :o two seperate coils on the newman motor!? thats not my understanding, or is this a variation?

I meant electrically seperated.
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potatogunman

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2007, 11:50:26 PM »
sorry for the mix up   at the moment the red coil on my drawing is disconected ,im  just running  the blue one,  I will post a clip later tonight for you all to see!
so far my battery readings are -- 

 7:00am  this moning       1.388   volts

"now"  5:30  (canadian time)       1.265 volts

in  10 1/2  hours   it consumed    0.123 volts           on a D battery ;D

i wish my ipod could do that  hehehehe ;D

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hartiberlin

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2007, 12:18:18 AM »
Quote from: potatogunman on July 14, 2007, 04:45:42 AM
when I looked at the top pic   i notice that the batter leads are connected to the same part of the shaft ...  would this cause it to short?

Well, the picture above:
new5.jpg
is badly drawn.

It is only a principle circuit to show a commutator, not the real wiring.

The most simple commutator is a On Tap switch , which switches on
the coil at the same angle location inside the coil at every revolution
for a few degrees and gives it just a push this way to rotate on.
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potatogunman

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2007, 02:21:59 AM »
yess that is what im using a  tape switch  works great!!!

here is a clip of my replication 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8qXyvT2GnQ

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RunningBare

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2007, 02:40:50 AM »
Great work, but if you want spaghetti check out mine  ;D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgjTShgptjU

I'll rate yours as soon as Youtube gets its act together and finishes maintenance!
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potatogunman

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #13 on: July 26, 2007, 06:06:55 AM »
very nice RunningBare !!  Im  still unsure that i have  my  wiring correct ?  how is your wiring configured?  i  might have to   change mine  a bit . Can  some one  help  me  with the  wiring ?    much help needed  thxxx
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RunningBare

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Re: Potatogunman's newman machine
« Reply #14 on: July 26, 2007, 12:38:41 PM »
It looks like your commutator arrangement is incorrect, first off there is only one wire from battery to commutator, the other terminal of the battery - goes straight to one of the coil connections.

the lead from battery to commutator should be directly connected to a conducting part of the shaft, then the other lead from the coil is placed against the part where you have the adhesive tape (I assume the tape breaks the contact while rotating), you should know that as the wire comes off the contact part onto the insulation tape that arcing will occure and will cut through the tape eventually.


Quote from: potatogunman on July 26, 2007, 06:06:55 AM
very nice RunningBare !!  Im  still unsure that i have  my  wiring correct ?  how is your wiring configured?  i  might have to   change mine  a bit . Can  some one  help  me  with the  wiring ?    much help needed  thxxx
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