Hello Bass Player,

No, your joke did not backfired! I was only pretending to take your rambling seriously. So, it was my joke which backfired. Was it not?
So, I am not so kind....

Yes, I glued the core of my SSG coils and I also used a hammer to push the welding rods in it...Sure!

Thanks for your explanations.
I have still not fully understood the "common collector" transistor, and I do not speak about the "common base" one!. It will be for my second year course, due to my mind slowness.

yes, I did reproduce this JLN CCT with positive results. Perhaps, I made a convenient mistake while wiring the coil?

Picture attached of his "rewritten" CCT.

Yes, the Gadgetmail's 650 cap has a minimum voltage of 0.5 volts.

I tried , this afternoon to charge a 1 farad 5 volts cap (see picture) with my double coil JT. It has also a slightly minimum voltage but if your short it for a while it goes to about zero.

The results:
With the cap across L3 (after the diode).
The 3 leds are only dimming.
Input amp consumption: 8 ma.
After 60 second I got a voltage of 0.475 volts across the cap.

With the cap across L2 (after a diode):
The 2 Leds are OK.
Input amp consumption about 11/12 ma.
After 60 second I got a voltage of 0.400 volts across the cap.

So, it looks like the 5 volts caps likes the 12 volts spikes. You can also see something similar in a SSG.

Very Best

Ok guys, I got a lil crazy this morning and added in a my 2nd  as shown in the attached diagram (not mine, can't remember who, credit to them all the same for drawing it)

Of course, the same solid state modifications mentioned earlier were done with the duplicate coil circuit (in red)
Initial results of the testing with this setup are very interesting.  Either my charging rate when through the roof with the radiant spikes, or I've introduced some other problem I don't quite understand.

Here's what's happening:
1 coil - coil gets hot to touch (as mentioned above), voltage on the 30v adapter I'm using reads 28v, amp draw is 500ma
2 coil - coils don't get nearly as hot, voltage on 30v adapter hits 24v, amp draw is 900ma
The adapter is rated at 30v / 500ma so its understandable why the voltage drops so bad i think

UPS Battery Test (12v / 7.2 amp hour)
Testing time (about 10 to 20 minutes)
1 coil - voltage shoots up then levels out and trickles up .01 at a time steadily
2 coil - voltage shoots up way more, levels out and trickles faster by far, then hits a limit and seems to stop going up
In fact, at one point it dipped down about 0.1v then tried to rise once more but didn't seem to be going anywhere

Car Battery 1 Test (12v / 50 amp hour)
Testing time (~10 minutes)
1 coil - voltage shoots up massively then levels out and trickles up .01 at a time steadily but seems to cap at a certain point
2 coil - voltage shoots up way more than 1 coil, levels out and trickles faster by far, then caps out at a higher point than 1 coil
When the charger is turned off, the battery always comes back to rest around 10.5 ~ 10.7 volts.  I suspect this one has a couple bad cells in it or something.  Moving on to my 2nd car battery

Car Battery 2 Test (12v / 50 amp hour)
Testing time (~30 minutes so far)
1 coil - voltage shoots up massively then levels out and trickles up .01 at a time steadily (I've never left it long enough to see if it would cap out)
2 coil - voltage shoots up way more than 1 coil, levels out and trickles faster by far at first, levels out more and trickles like 1 coil
Currently its reading 12.05v as I type this.  I will leave it running while I go to work and see what I have when I get back

Oh, interesting point on this battery.  I poured out the liquid inside (as much as I could get out) and replaced it with filtered water (one of those fancy drinking water filters).  When I read the voltage it was 8.12v right after I did that.  Before that it seemed to have a similar problem to the battery above, although it had a higher resting voltage ... like 11.5 or so.  Anyway, I charged it on 1 coil for ~8 hours and it came to rest at 11.56v when I stopped it (even though it was still trickling nicely)
So it seems that changing the electrolyte is it?  Changing the stuff in side to plain water helped recover what was once a reject battery I got free from a car shop.  I will try this changing process with my 1st battery this evening and see if it helps that one

Crap.  My 30v adapter melted while I was at work.  I think it might have been pretty early on since the resting voltage of my car battery was 11.64v when I got home.  8 hours wasted

The moral of this story I suppose is - don't push an adapter further than its rated to go

Hi Niofox I did it on a multicoil these two  just one the drive  only and it worked.
Thanks

Can you make a diagram for it?  I will try to make one for my setup this evening

Here's my current setup (adding more coils later)

Hi Niofox you don't need more  for slave . You only have to put on the drive coil in my opinion. On mine it worked.
Just do like my setup if yours did not work.
Enjoy

Oh mine is working wonderfully, I've been charging/conditioning batteries all week
Looking at your diagram though, I'd like to know if using the diode instead of a resistor on the slave coils is even needed?  It is cheaper to use a resistor.  But if the diode works better that would be good.  I will try taking out the extra 20k resistor

Are you guys using any external magnet to your setups?