Author Topic: pulse motor Working video and info (Read 148416 times)

tropes · « **Reply #45 on:** September 03, 2007, 07:01:42 PM »

Hi Guys
I thought I should show my first motor. I was lucky to find an old Hobart weigh scale that had a shaft to which I could attach a CD and a timing wheel. I glued three magnets to each and used a Hall sensor and transistor to switch power on and off. I used a lego power pack (3 Ccells 4.5 volts) for power.
A good Benini site: http://www.rexresearch.com/bedini/bedini.htm
A good Adams site: http://www.angelfire.com/ak5/energy21/adamsmotor.htm
Peter

tropes · « **Reply #46 on:** September 03, 2007, 07:03:17 PM »

Quote from: tropes on September 03, 2007, 07:01:42 PM

Hi Guys
I thought I should show my first motor. I was lucky to find an old Hobart weigh scale that had a shaft to which I could attach a CD and a timing wheel. I glued three magnets to each and used a Hall sensor and transistor to switch power on and off. I used a lego power pack (3 Ccells 4.5 volts) for power.
A good Benini site: http://www.rexresearch.com/bedini/bedini.htm
A good Adams site: http://www.angelfire.com/ak5/energy21/adamsmotor.htm
Peter

Oh Yes the Picture

Ren · « **Reply #47 on:** September 03, 2007, 11:55:46 PM »

thats ghetto Tropes

I like. How does it perform on such a small voltage?

tropes · « **Reply #48 on:** September 04, 2007, 12:13:01 AM »

Ren
You can check out some of my early work including videos (2003- 2005)here: http://www.theowlnest.com/kickbypage.html
If you follow the links you'll see a progression to the Sotropa Motor.I am now building a four piston motor but I also am awaiting cancer surgery this month so I will be out of commission for a while. I know the mechanics of motors and engines but I lack the electronic skills.
Peter

Nastrand2000 · « **Reply #49 on:** September 04, 2007, 12:19:06 AM »

Peter,
Looks good. I was wondering the what you guess the rpm is and what amount of current is it taking at 4.5 volt?
keep up the good work.
Jason

Nastrand2000 · « **Reply #50 on:** September 04, 2007, 12:26:36 AM »

Ren
Your microswitch can be replace with a transistor(see picture in reply #41). And you can use one of your secondary windings to as a trigger coil (pickup coil in picture), to trigger the transistor to pulse all four driving coils. The secondary coils on the rest of the coils can be uses as straight generator coil to recover extra voltage. If you follow the diagram I posted to capture back emf, you should be looking at about 200 to 300 volt spikes. Good luck.
Jason

tropes · « **Reply #51 on:** September 04, 2007, 12:27:05 AM »

Quote from: Nastrand2000 on September 04, 2007, 12:19:06 AM

Peter,
Looks good. I was wondering the what you guess the rpm is and what amount of current is it taking at 4.5 volt?
keep up the good work.
Jason

I have long since disassembled that motor but you can view the video and guess at the RPM. It was just a start and a good learning experience but very inefficient.
Peter

Ren · « **Reply #52 on:** September 04, 2007, 02:16:39 AM »

thanks Jase, that would be the next step for me I think. Looking at Rick F's bedini circuit I notice the secondary winding has a 1k variable resistor which I assume allows you to tune the device? I still need a little help with the electronics side of things. I will have an attempt at the transistor wiring soon. I also got some new equipment and gauges today, will hook them up and let you know the findings.

Thanks Peter, I will check out your page. And good luck with your surgery, keep your spirits high. My wife is a RN (10 years) who works in a chemotherapy ward, and is studying alot of information in regards to cancer and treatment, if you have any questions or concerns she would be happy to share her wealth of knowledge. All the best.

s

Nastrand2000 · « **Reply #53 on:** September 04, 2007, 06:10:49 AM »

Ren
The one thing that I have found, is that the slower you can run "motor" the more back emf you will capture. However, this comes at a price, because the motor will consume more current. You have to find the resonant frequency your motor is most efficient at. If you have questions about this, I'm more than happy to help you. I live in Oregon, if you are anywhere close it is much easier in person. Good luck.
Jason

Ren · « **Reply #54 on:** September 04, 2007, 06:49:45 AM »

thanks jase, but im in Australia, it doesnt get too much further away than that! Thank for the offer though

To slow my motor down I have used the rotor to drive a small 12 volt hobby motor (read, very small). With four coils it still has enough torque to continue at a decent speed and depending on how I gear the hobby motor it will put out 0.5 - 9 volts. This could be combined with the voltage I am receiving through the secondary windings. I dont know how long this hobby motor will last though. Could possibly burn out.

I get more through my secondary windings the faster it goes however, so when the hobby motor slows down the rotor I lose a little bit of juice on that end.

Can anyone tell me part numbers for the hall sensor? And does the transistor need the 1k pot as seen here in pics http://rpmgt.org/SSG.html for dialing in?

Thaelin · « **Reply #55 on:** September 04, 2007, 10:29:15 AM »

Gosh, someone else is actually in oregon? I live in PDX myself.

Greets at ya.

thaelin

tropes · « **Reply #56 on:** September 04, 2007, 03:38:30 PM »

Quote from: Ren on September 04, 2007, 06:49:45 AM

Can anyone tell me part numbers for the hall sensor? And does the transistor need the 1k pot as seen here in pics http://rpmgt.org/SSG.html for dialing in?

Ren
The unipolar Hall sensor is made by Allegro Microsystems, part#: A3121EUA.
The bipolar Hall sensors I bought as a bundle of 40 from Electronic Goldmine in Arizona or online at
http://www.goldmine-elec.com/
Unipolar are sensitive to South Pole only; bipolar swith on with South and off with North Pole.
Peter

Ren · « **Reply #57 on:** September 05, 2007, 12:20:05 AM »

hmmm. Thanks Peter. I had a look at the stats on the hall I brought and it was only rated for 5v. Would this one do the trick?

http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=hall&Nr=AND%28avl%3aau%2csearchDiscon_au%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=hall&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=1811441&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0524714585.1188943532@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdladdllikegikcefeceeldgkidhgm.0&cacheID=aunetscape

I will place order with Allegro if it isnt as I cant find any suppliers of that particular sensor here in Australia.

tropes · « **Reply #58 on:** September 05, 2007, 12:52:17 AM »

Quote from: Ren on September 05, 2007, 12:20:05 AM

hmmm. Thanks Peter. I had a look at the stats on the hall I brought and it was only rated for 5v. Would this one do the trick?

To understand unipolar, latching and bipolar Hall switches read:
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Design/an/an27705.pdf
I think what you want is a non- latching unipolar switch rated for up to 24v.
Peter

Ren · « **Reply #59 on:** September 05, 2007, 01:50:19 AM »

Thanks Peter! Two thumbs up! Your simple post and link taught me more than 3 supposed electronics experts could (well you should know your stuff if you work in an electronic component store). Your right, I am after a unipolar switch which is non latching, i.e switches on in the presence of a magnetic field and switches off in its absense.

Thanks mate! I'll order some from RS here in Aus and see how they go.

Sorry just realized above link I provided was incorrect. product I was reffering to was number 181-1441 seen at http://www.rsaustralia.com. There are uni, bi and latched types

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Author Topic: pulse motor Working video and info (Read 148416 times)

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