Author Topic: Newman machine replica (Read 138041 times)

CLaNZeR · « **Reply #60 on:** June 18, 2007, 12:16:01 PM »

Quote from: Dingus Mungus on June 18, 2007, 11:33:45 AM

Here are some pics of my replication.
Working on the pot motor now...

~Dingus

edit: a video also...

Looking good Dingus.

Can you explain more on how it works?

I did a search on google for Newman recipricating Motor but did not come back with a lot.

Cheers

Sean.

CLaNZeR · « **Reply #61 on:** June 18, 2007, 12:19:44 PM »

Quote from: jorgerojo on June 18, 2007, 05:34:45 AM

At last some one who think about teaching us Mortals, that do not understand much of electronics, a lot of people like me are following you, thats for sure.

Hi Jorge

Thanks for that

I do not understand that much about electronics either LOL

. I am all self taught an just pick up what I need to know on each project. Dun't think my brain could hold as much info as other guys on these forums.

What I do like to do though is share the build info as I do it, because if I finally get something to work, then people will see how it was made and should be able to copy it. I am all for Open Source and sharing with others anything I learn on my journey.

Regards

Sean.

CLaNZeR · « **Reply #62 on:** June 18, 2007, 12:24:49 PM »

Quote from: mramos on June 18, 2007, 05:35:31 AM

Sean, just popping in to do the same (skipped the empty promise guy lol). Back to my real job tomorrow. Weekends go fast for sure.

Coil looks good. Let me know what you find with it. Mine has a crossed coil in the middle, like the window motor. Odd thing.

I went back and looked at my pictures from a couple nights ago as the battery was at 11.24V (at rest) this morning. Somehow it went up. Tonight it is 12.04 volts. Very weird. I ran it for 15 minutes maybe today, when I had a second.

Also, I notice the motor will run along, then after so many minutes, it takes off at a much higher RPM (for maybe a minute) then slow back to what I would call normal speed. If it was the tape giving up it would not return back to normal. I have seen it do this many times.

Waiting to see what you get next weekend. Will keep playing here tomorrow night. 11:34PM and tired as heck.. Nice work as usual.

Mike

Hi Mike

I have been thinking about the tape replacing side of things.

How about just stripping of the PVC cover of some 6MM copper wire and using this. Simply cut a Window in the PVC and slide it over the shaft?

Strange like you say about the increase RPM's and then dropping off, be good to pop a tacho on it and measure the speed.

Back to work for the week this end

but will play more next weekend and hopefull have a spinning motor atleast

Cheers

Sean.

Dingus Mungus · « **Reply #63 on:** June 18, 2007, 01:39:44 PM »

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 15, 2007, 08:29:14 AM

(http://overunity.com/newman2/newman1.gif)

Hi Dingus,
if you go with the reciprocating setup, where a magnet just slides in and out of the coil,
you have to make this circuit like a door ringer bell.
So connect one contact point to the bottom of the magnet and the other
beneath it.
So if the magnet falls into the coil it makes contact and the coil
repells the magnet out of the coil and the contact is broken, so the magnet
again falls back down making contact again and is repelled again out of the coil.

If you go with the rotating setup, you just need to make
contact once per revolution of the magnet at the right angle.
So you stick the contact to the axis via a commutator.
Pretty simple. No higher mathematics needed !

Regards, Stefan.

P.S: Replace the 10 ohm shunt with a incandescent bulb.
The shunt was only there for the scope measurement for
to see the back current spike on the scope.

So I tested the reciprocating version first just to see a simple proof of concept.
Its a 12v 4ah backup battery, 200 feet of 30g wire, and two 1"x.25" neo cylinders.
From positive terminal the coil begins and the last 2 feet were left to connect to the
floating magnet. Once the magnet is levitating on the other magnets field you can
add a tin foil contact in the tube between the magnet and the negitive terminal, when
gavity pulls the magnet down it closes the circuit and the magnet is repulsed up the
tube. When it falls back to its start position it creates a high frequency BEMF pulse
that will really mess with your meters sometimes. An interesting proof of concept.

~Dingus

CLaNZeR · « **Reply #64 on:** June 18, 2007, 02:01:28 PM »

Quote from: Dingus Mungus on June 18, 2007, 01:39:44 PM

So I tested the reciprocating version first just to see a simple proof of concept.
Its a 12v 4ah backup battery, 200 feet of 30g wire, and two 1"x.25" neo cylinders.
From positive terminal the coil begins and the last 2 feet were left to connect to the
floating magnet. Once the magnet is levitating on the other magnets field you can
add a tin foil contact in the tube between the magnet and the negitive terminal, when
gavity pulls the magnet down it closes the circuit and the magnet is repulsed up the
tube. When it falls back to its start position it creates a high frequency BEMF pulse
that will really mess with your meters sometimes. An interesting proof of concept.

~Dingus

I understand all that I was wondering where the Cereal packets fit into the circuit hehehe

Again good work Dingus

Cheers

Sean.

Freezer · « **Reply #65 on:** June 18, 2007, 11:43:59 PM »

Forgive me if this sounds stupid. What if the rotor turning acting as a source of current and the final output fed back into the motor (no battery). Could the extra energy thats materializing enough to power itself after a couple seconds? Say if the rotor had enough momentum.

TheOne · « **Reply #66 on:** June 18, 2007, 11:50:20 PM »

i don't think so, well i did not try but i removed the magnet from it so i cannot test anymore, i bet not, well on mine at least

Dingus Mungus · « **Reply #67 on:** June 19, 2007, 12:43:35 AM »

We would need some scope shots to figure out the RMS, but I would assume the device
requires more developement before it'll run in a truely closed loop. (aka no battery)

~Dingus

otherone · « **Reply #68 on:** June 19, 2007, 02:06:29 AM »

hey guys, just getting into this thing, just wondering what material the shaft is made of? more conductive the better? thanks

TheOne · « **Reply #69 on:** June 19, 2007, 02:45:08 AM »

stainless steel in my case, it must conduct electricity if you use it for the communicator, if its not the case you case use anything

maxc · « **Reply #70 on:** June 19, 2007, 03:16:25 AM »

Use brushes off a very small motor.

If I tune mine right i get 2mm arcs off the brushes with a 6 volt battery.
I have 10 pounds of 20 gauge wire now 30 ohms, still not enough wire.

Thaelin · « **Reply #71 on:** June 19, 2007, 05:25:54 AM »

Number 20 wire is a bit big. I am just ready to start winding mine and its using 26. I have around 9000 ft of it so it will have to do.

Here is an idea I will be using for the comm. Instead of using tape on the shaft, tape it all the way around and then tape a piece of say 18 ga wire on it and ground to the shaft. Will see how well it fares

sugra

Dingus Mungus · « **Reply #72 on:** June 19, 2007, 01:04:48 PM »

Anyone know of cheaper/better wire venders?
http://www.electromechanicsonline.com/default.asp?cat=Wire%2C+Magnet

I'm looking to buy a big spool if you know what I mean.

~Dingus Mungus

pg46 · « **Reply #73 on:** June 20, 2007, 02:40:40 PM »

Hi

You might want to have a look at this guy's experiments regarding a gain in voltage on account of the sparking over at -

http://www.intalek.com/Index/Projects/SparkGapExp/SparkGapExp.htm

Very tidy and well laid out work.

He is using Carbon/Graphite and Thoriated Tungsten rods for contact points. You can get these at welding shops. The Carbon/graphite rod looks like a common gouging rod.

I am trying now on my motor with carbon rod from an old dry cell battery and this thoriated tungsetn rod. Don't know that it will make my experiment self sufficient but the spark is real pretty if nothing else - kind of a purple color.

hartiberlin · « **Reply #74 on:** June 21, 2007, 10:50:20 PM »

Quote from: Dingus Mungus on June 18, 2007, 01:39:44 PM

Quote from: hartiberlin on June 15, 2007, 08:29:14 AM

Hi Dingus,
if you go with the reciprocating setup, where a magnet just slides in and out of the coil,
you have to make this circuit like a door ringer bell.
So connect one contact point to the bottom of the magnet and the other
beneath it.
So if the magnet falls into the coil it makes contact and the coil
repells the magnet out of the coil and the contact is broken, so the magnet
again falls back down making contact again and is repelled again out of the coil.

If you go with the rotating setup, you just need to make
contact once per revolution of the magnet at the right angle.
So you stick the contact to the axis via a commutator.
Pretty simple. No higher mathematics needed !

Regards, Stefan.

P.S: Replace the 10 ohm shunt with a incandescent bulb.
The shunt was only there for the scope measurement for
to see the back current spike on the scope.

So I tested the reciprocating version first just to see a simple proof of concept.
Its a 12v 4ah backup battery, 200 feet of 30g wire, and two 1"x.25" neo cylinders.
From positive terminal the coil begins and the last 2 feet were left to connect to the
floating magnet. Once the magnet is levitating on the other magnets field you can
add a tin foil contact in the tube between the magnet and the negitive terminal, when
gavity pulls the magnet down it closes the circuit and the magnet is repulsed up the
tube. When it falls back to its start position it creates a high frequency BEMF pulse
that will really mess with your meters sometimes. An interesting proof of concept.

~Dingus

Welldone Dingus,
so did you have a look at the input current via a shunt resistor
and a scope ?
How does the input current look alike in this setup ?
Can you see a back current RF burst when you contact points
open ?

Regards, Stefan.

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