Richard,

Is the black wheel with the multiple coils going to be your generator or is it your motor end? 

It looks kind of like your motor end with the neo's stacked on the end of the coils.

The white disc in the center is this a magnetic clutch or are you going to put coils around it and make it your generator?

looks interesting.

Rhett

here you see the new coils mounted

Excellent work Richard

Look forward to the results.

Regards

Sean.

well i am building coils now for the new config

Richard

Gonna have to build one of these!
Only thing is, it is possible to use JUST magnets, and no wiring of any kind.
Power? the bigger the magnet, the more power you get.
The 2 magnet design i am working on is nearly finished, when it's running i will
gladly post a video.
 The problem of the 'sticky point' is solved by using a BIG flywheel, the magnets
have more than enough energy to compensate. (Gaby-your idea of target magnets
is a good one, will let you know when i figure out the positions), Also, i am fresh
out of magnets!
 Going to buy some powerful Neo's when i am in England next month...

you also want to watch the type of glue that you use as the wrong glue can have you with a hole in a wall or a body part as our unit goes 3800 rpm and with a 1 inch magnet it would kill you if it came loose.

Sounds like you had a bad experience?

i have posted some videos over at youtube.com under the name Magnacoastermotors for you to see running units we have yet to put the last video on line yet

Have you got a self-running unit yet? Or at least a unit that will keep it's own battery charged?

Richard,

Being a windmill builder for many years now,  I can assure you that the open core coil  pm ALTERNATERS we  build and use are only about 48% efficient.   Rember also that they are ALTERNATERS, not DC generators; they are rectified to deliver dc current which is then used to charge battery banks. The reason we use them instead of a automotive alternator, is because we can build them bigger, and to produce useable power at lower rpms, plus most windmill users do not have acesss to electricity to provide a current for eciter coils, and to avoid the use of brushes and slip rings.

Looking at your contraption, if that is a standard gm alternator, UNMODIFIED, (ie PM rotor replacing the induction coils)  it also is only at best, 48% efficient in good condition. gear driven, much less than that.  It needs to turn at about 700 rpm to prduce any usable amperage at 14+ volts  and would require some HP (horse power) to do that.  one (1) HP= 748 watts, and that's on paper- 100% efficiency, something that has never been achieved with the best electric motor designs.

The windmill  type alternators we build  with permanent magnets, while you are correct saying they have very little drag when there is NO LOAD on them, have considerable drag when trying to get usable power out of them. 
An 8 foot  windmill blade, of which we use 3 (giving us about a 16 foot diameter sweep) produces about 5 hp in a 20 MPH wind.  that's about 3,700 or so watts , which in turn is used to rotate the alternator giving us at best 15-20 amps at about 18 volts, barely enough to charge up a battery bank, which in turn is hooked up to an inverter which provides  a very modest amount of power, barely enough to run a few lights, a tv, a computer, run a water pump once in a while, and other small appliances.

I don't know how you are measuring the current usages in your device, but I know that it is nowhere near unity,self running, never mind producing enough power to turn an alternator and charge a battery.  It's probably running off the battery through a reverse current through the coils.

I don't know what you spend so much money on, but I can scrape together enough salvaged parts to built a windmill for about $150 . retifiers you can either take out of scrape alternators, or buy then for a couple bucks.

Another thing I can't understand is why you need to wind a coil "in reverse". Makes no sense at all. You either wire them in series or parallel, using either the "in" or "out" wire.   It is also  not required to varnish the coils. They are already coated with a clear insulation.  It may help them stay together,(so does tape) but it sure won't prevent "heating".

I see you have spent some time reading windmill sites, so you know we cast our stators in resin to hold everything in place.  You should also have learned that nothing used in windmill design comes anywhere near unity.  All we try to do is make power using the power in the wind.