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Author Topic: Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor  (Read 572471 times)

hartiberlin

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Hi ALL,

user Mike  ( HMM) from the gn0sis forum has built a modified
Bedini Cole Window motor which he can run without batteries for
hours and can charge up empty capacitors !

Here is his video which is really amazing !

This is what we havebeen looking for all the time.
It is a classic Lenz law violation !

Here attached is the video of his motor in action.

It is a Windows Media Video WMV File and you need Windows Media Player
or Media Player Classic to view it.

Mike has also documented all the things of his motor.

I will post this and all the pics in the next replies !

Regards, Stefan.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2007, 01:38:19 PM by hartiberlin »

hartiberlin

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Here are attached to this message
( you must be logged into the forum to get the files)
a few pictures of this breakthrough motor !


hartiberlin

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Here are some more pics attached.


The modification from Mike is, that
he has wound a trifilar coil  ( 3 coils interwoven)
instead of just 2 coils as in the original Bedini-Cole Window motor.

The third coil is used to be put in series with the main second
coil at intervals with a Solid State relay, so the capacitor is charging up much faster
and it keeps the motor spinning.


Regards, Stefan.

hartiberlin

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Here are the scope shots directly taken at
the 3 coils showing voltage over time.

Attention: the last 3rd coil has a different scope deflection timing.
( it is about 2 times faster,so you can see the pulses better)

Dingus Mungus

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Hmmmmm... Looks quite amazing!

One thing I noticed was the voltage of the cap starts climbing before the rotor is even spun. I'm not sure what is giving this motor its excess energy, but I'm planning on replicting it as soon as I can afford the parts.

Great documentation!

Thanks again stefan,
~Dingus

hartiberlin

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Here are some help tips from Mike( User HMM)

Yes 6 magnets on rotor n-s-n-s-n-s. The key to (over)unity is to time switch 1 correctly this can be done a number of ways. I will help you with all of this but first you must get your motor to run. Follow the first circuit I posted remember to wind the stator with two or more wires bifiler will work fine I use trifiler. Good Luck

The value of the cap is not critical I use 47000uf computer cap although any large electrolytic cap should do. the stator is one coil bifiler wound then split evenly where the shaft goes through.



follow the first cct and yes trigger is smaller wire. The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1.

wind as much turns as possible try to get above 46 ohm.

the main winding on my motor is 46 ohms
so 40-60 ohms sorry about that

cheers
Mike

 in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound

If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

cheers

Mike

Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing

**I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)

OK
Mike

@Marco I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so. I am scared to leave it running unattended (a fire or explosion would not be good)the running voltage is higher when I give it a big spin by hand. so far every time I ran it the voltage has always leveled off some where bellow 12v or so my cap is good up to 25v


hartiberlin

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More infos from Mike:

The trigger coil is for motor timing, The hall effect is for charge timing.

 I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important.


>Mike,
>Does your circuit use the exact same components like those that are from that image on >the Bedini page?

yes same as Bedini/Cole.

All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding.

cheers
Mike

My new relay has an LED indicator, I will give it a try.

Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole circuit

study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle

one more thing before I go

When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.

cheers mike

This link is very good
http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html
 must check it out
I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing


I use (28 gauge .012 in. main)

(30 gauge .010 in. trigger, generator)

I get a little over 40 ohms each


the main winding is longer than the generator and trigger windings. I did not count #turns sorry.

I must say that my stator coil is wider

Mike

ResinRat2

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Mike,

Thank you for doing this on an open forum.

Thank you for showing the pictures, drawing, schematics, and scope shots; and thank you for allowing it to be seen by the world.





hartiberlin

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More infos:

Thats cool mike, I was checking on this site:-

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

.3mm diam = 28gauge

.254 diam = 30 gauge


@ Stefan
I think the third winding is allways charging the cap
the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them.

Mike

===============

Mike has blown up a few parts of his motor after
letting it run through the whole night !

Probably the voltage on the cap did rise too much !

He wrote then back:

ps: looks like the hall ic is not working and also the PNP, the ss relay is fine


I have no more hall ic's and only a few PNP's.
This suxs

Scope shots were taken dirrectly off the coil.
I will post more detail when I have my motor running again.

cheers Mike

I will scavenge up a hall ic from something.


stefan,

I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. i will swap the bad parts now and try to get it running again.

As for the posistion of my flywheel magnets I will give that info later after I have finished my testing.

cheers
Mike

Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing.

yes the original circuit will charge the cap

my modification charged the cap from 0v faster

yes somthing is wrong with the cap.

If I charge it with 12v it will not hold long
and spark from discharge is week.

Still looking for a hall ic any ideas where to find one 3030
also did anyone find this paticular cap I have only one and the place where I got it, BG Micro no longer has any.

maby another big cap will take its place.

hydrocontrol

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Quick.. Post this information in as many forums as possible.. Make copies of all this information. This looks to be the real deal.. Get the the information out before the suppresion starts.

hydrocontrol

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Quote
One thing I noticed was the voltage of the cap starts climbing before the rotor is even spun.
I have seen this effect after shorting out large computer caps myself. They will 'bounce' back a few volts immediately after removing the short so that does not worry me. On the skeptic side I could think that with all that wire he could be transmitting energy to the system (RF) and it is using that energy to run. Someone else on this forum did that and had everyone going for awhile. This motor I think is the real deal... The information feels and looks right. Of course until a couple of people actually replicate it there will always be questions but their appears enough information publish to actually replicate.. Time will tell.. I figure less than a week and we will all know. If it is the real deal then I think a Tunecharger may make the most of any excess energy.

http://www.tunecharger.com/perso-24418.htm

hartiberlin

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Yes, the bouncing of the voltage of a discharged cap is normal.

There are already some people trying to replicate this motor.

In about 2 to 3 days we will know, if these people also
have success with it.

I will post updates.

Many thanks again to Mike to make this publically available.

Regards.Stefan.

hartiberlin

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Here are still the PDF datasheet Files of the used transistors and the Solid State Relay.

hartiberlin

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Here is the video of  the original
Bedini-Cole motor.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3562588371166049574

You can see, that at the end of this video at about 2:05
the rotor spins also up, after it has stopped, so the cap
already has some voltage left to start the rotor...

But the modification of Mike is much better !

Regards, Stefan.

FreeEnergy

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this is a bit over my head but i will make copies, once it's a proven fact that we have overunity and along with replications, we should mass distribute starting with open source communities.

thank you very much Mike.


peace