Author Topic: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity! (Read 42039 times)

lumen · « **Reply #315 on:** May 11, 2023, 01:57:19 AM »

Watched the video several times looking at all the detail. It's clear this machine has about a 20x output from the input.
The initial force on the input director must be about the same as the output drive receives, but the diameter is much smaller so the torque is less.
Just doing an approximation of the input directors radius it appears to be about 10 to 15 times smaller than the radius of the drive stator. With equal flux on each, the larger produces more torque.
Looking at the output at higher RPMs, the input torque goes up but also shows some additional gain on the output torque but the efficiency drops some possibly due to reluctance in the stator material.

It looks like there's is allot of room for improvement in design, but what he is showing at this point is that it in fact produces energy!

kolbacict · « **Reply #316 on:** May 12, 2023, 08:36:27 PM »

Quote from: rakarskiy on March 28, 2023, 02:35:53 PM

Are you wondering why it's not running? I will even say more, Andriy turned to President Poroshenko to implement his project in 2015-16, where he, NOT very politely, was shown the door. Perhaps they even threatened him, because after that he dismantled everything and disappeared from the information space. Just released a video recently.

ramset · « **Reply #317 on:** May 12, 2023, 10:30:46 PM »

Sir Kolbacict
Quite a few are very intrigued by this topic
We do have one builder in particular that is chomping
At the bit to try this ( gotoluc)
He is unfortunately quite busy on a job for the next month or so…

Your link would not open for me ?

Respectfully
Chet K

kolbacict · « **Reply #318 on:** May 13, 2023, 07:19:03 AM »

That is not link,just archive. It can open any internet browser.
It was found in my computer yesterday.
I could not give a regular link, because this forum has not been around for many years.
But this is not on the topic of this thread, this is according to Yermola.
It was just interesting. The well-known now Bucha is mentioned.

Drak · « **Reply #319 on:** May 13, 2023, 06:26:45 PM »

Quote from: ramset on May 12, 2023, 10:30:46 PM

Quite a few are very intrigued by this topic
We do have one builder in particular that is chomping
At the bit to try this ( gotoluc)
He is unfortunately quite busy on a job for the next month or so…

I'm glad someone else is attempting to build this. It seems like it has potential. Either way, I'm not getting my hopes up. I'm kinda taking a stab at it too. Although I'm just using the thin sheets of metal you can get from lowes, not electric steel. I had some time to kill but should have it done in a couple weeks or so. I'm hoping there are more people attempting to build also.

Can't remember how to embed photo's in the post itself so i'll just add it as an attachment. <edit> Never mind it did it automagicly.

bistander · « **Reply #320 on:** May 14, 2023, 04:41:18 AM »

Quote from: Drak on May 13, 2023, 06:26:45 PM

I'm glad someone else is attempting to build this. It seems like it has potential. Either way, I'm not getting my hopes up. I'm kinda taking a stab at it too. Although I'm just using the thin sheets of metal you can get from lowes, not electric steel. I had some time to kill but should have it done in a couple weeks or so. I'm hoping there are more people attempting to build also.

Can't remember how to embed photo's in the post itself so i'll just add it as an attachment. <edit> Never mind it did it automagicly.

Hi Drak,
As long as it wasn't stainless steel, I think it should function like electrical grades basically but with higher loss. However at the apparent frequency and induction, likely be unnoticed. Nice job on the stator rounds. Wonder how you cut those laminations. Nice.

I can't make out the magnet arrangement in the rotor arms. Have you s photo of the magnet alone?

Following with interest. Have you ideas for test fixture?
bi

Jimboot · « **Reply #321 on:** May 14, 2023, 12:37:02 PM »

Quote from: Drak on May 13, 2023, 06:26:45 PM

I'm glad someone else is attempting to build this. It seems like it has potential. Either way, I'm not getting my hopes up. I'm kinda taking a stab at it too. Although I'm just using the thin sheets of metal you can get from lowes, not electric steel. I had some time to kill but should have it done in a couple weeks or so. I'm hoping there are more people attempting to build also.

Can't remember how to embed photo's in the post itself so i'll just add it as an attachment. <edit> Never mind it did it automagicly.

That looks awesome mate. How did you cut the sheets? Thanks for sharing. Nice work.

Drak · « **Reply #322 on:** May 14, 2023, 05:15:14 PM »

Quote from: bistander

As long as it wasn't stainless steel, I think it should function like electrical grades basically but with higher loss. However at the apparent frequency and induction, likely be unnoticed.

Yeah, stainless steel doesn't even stick to magnets, at least the little bit that I have laying around. The loss is what I'm worried about. Even if this thing doesn't work I can't say Mike's device doesn't work because I didn't use the same steel he used. Your right the induction shouldn't be a problem because this thing would never run fast enough to make a difference. (actually I hope I'm wrong about that)

Quote from: bistander

Nice job on the stator rounds. Wonder how you cut those laminations. Nice.

Thank you, I try to copy as close as I can and give it my best when I do try to copy something. The laminations were cut using a cnc I built that I copied from Strange Garage's youtube channel here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmQWsWh0Zsk
That was the first time I ever cut steel, and I will tell you this: I DO NOT LIKE CUTTING STEEL. I don't think that machine was designed for cutting steel and struggled through every piece. I mean its a strong machine but every piece I cut was an adventure mainly because my speeds and feeds were not correct. I only bought 2 steel cutting bits and by the end of it one bit was broken and the other wouldn't cut hot butter. I think my spindle speed was way too high. I could rant about that forever but you get the jist.

Quote from: bistander

I can't make out the magnet arrangement in the rotor arms. Have you s photo of the magnet alone?

I'll post more photos below

Quote from: bistander

Following with interest. Have you ideas for test fixture?

Yes, I plan to put the same size diameter pullys on the input and output shaft and use weights, like in Willy's twist device setup. If it is able to lift more then it takes on the input then it should called a success. At that point it would be just a matter of putting a third shaft parallel to the input/output shafts and connecting a belt or chain from the output shaft to the third shaft and from the input shaft to the third shaft, then put a slight torque on the input shaft, lock it in place, let go, then run out of the room. I'm not getting my hopes up though, over the years of building sh_t I've learned better. I might order more magnets, those things I'm using now have been sitting around here for years and I don't know what grade they are.

Quote from: Jimboot

That looks awesome mate. How did you cut the sheets? Thanks for sharing. Nice work.

Thanks! See above and below.

I designed the whole thing in FreeCAD. Took me about a week to design it. I used the spread sheet in FreeCAD so I could change dimensions on the fly. FreeCAD can also generate the G-Code for the CNC. <edit to add> I know in the picture of the cad the strators are not twistd for each phase, for the life of me I could not figure out how to get freecad to twist the strators as it goes back, but the holes are there to do that after the pieces were cut.

bistander · « **Reply #323 on:** May 14, 2023, 07:06:05 PM »

Looks great Drak.
Suggestion. Electrical grade steels typically use core plate. This is a thin layer on the surface, both sides, although only one side would be necessary. This core plate is an insulating film. You might spray a light coat of varnish. This would go a long way to eliminate eddy currents and avoid about half of the core loss. You'll get a certain amount of interlamination resistance from the natural surface oxidation and flatness/compression imperfections which might be enough. But if you entertain high speed trials, I'd coat it.
Cool project.
bi

https://www.axalta.com/electricalinsulation_global/en_US/electrical-steel-coatings/what-are-electrical-steel-coatings.html

Drak · « **Reply #324 on:** May 14, 2023, 07:38:28 PM »

Quote from: bistander on May 14, 2023, 07:06:05 PM

Looks great Drak.
Suggestion. Electrical grade steels typically use core plate. This is a thin layer on the surface, both sides, although only one side would be necessary. This core plate is an insulating film. You might spray a light coat of varnish. This would go a long way to eliminate eddy currents and avoid about half of the core loss. You'll get a certain amount of interlamination resistance from the natural surface oxidation and flatness/compression imperfections which might be enough. But if you entertain high speed trials, I'd coat it.
Cool project.
bi

https://www.axalta.com/electricalinsulation_global/en_US/electrical-steel-coatings/what-are-electrical-steel-coatings.html

OMG I completly forgot about that, I remember that being discussed back on Jack Hildenbrand thread. Thank you so much. I think they were talking about using news paper and stuff. This is what I have on hand will any of these do, or should I specifically buy varnish. If so what brand?

If you have any other suggestions I'm all ears.

bistander · « **Reply #325 on:** May 14, 2023, 08:10:06 PM »

Drak,
I certainly would not use a paper. And I think you should use what you have one hand, maybe something with a temperature claim, and try a test sample. Just look for something that will apply even and thinly and dry hard.
If you're into it, check a nearby motor rebuild shop. They may sell or point you to an easy source. Gylptol is the common red motor insulating varnish and not what you want. It'd work, but way to thick.
bi

bistander · « **Reply #326 on:** May 14, 2023, 08:33:34 PM »

Drak,
Something comes to mind. Unsure how it will play out. But I imagine to replicate and get effects near what Mike shows in his videos, you may need to adjust that air gap distance. This is done on motors and generators using separate pole pieces and shims. So you might keep this in mind. Could it be possible to build in adjustment on the rotor magnet arm assembly? Just something to consider if it sticks (cogs) too much, or too little.
Do you have a dial indicator for alignment of the assembly?
Using quality ball bearings?
Might load a gaussmeter app on smart phone to check magnets.
bi

lancaIV · « **Reply #327 on:** May 14, 2023, 08:55:44 PM »

Quote from: bistander on May 14, 2023, 08:10:06 PM

Drak,
I certainly would not use a paper. And I think you should use what you have one hand, maybe something with a temperature claim, and try a test sample. Just look for something that will apply even and thinly and dry hard.
If you're into it, check a nearby motor rebuild shop. They may sell or point you to an easy source. Gylptol is the common red motor insulating varnish and not what you want. It'd work, but way to thick.
bi

Diluol
transparent nail polish (beauty-case equipment ?
instant adhesive/super glue
transparent self-glueing thin plastic-foil,anti-static

https://motorkote.com/

wmbr
OCWL

Drak · « **Reply #328 on:** May 14, 2023, 09:04:05 PM »

Quote from: bistander on May 14, 2023, 08:33:34 PM

Drak,
Something comes to mind. Unsure how it will play out. But I imagine to replicate and get effects near what Mike shows in his videos, you may need to adjust that air gap distance. This is done on motors and generators using separate pole pieces and shims. So you might keep this in mind. Could it be possible to build in adjustment on the rotor magnet arm assembly? Just something to consider if it sticks (cogs) too much, or too little.
Do you have a dial indicator for alignment of the assembly?
Using quality ball bearings?
Might load a gaussmeter app on smart phone to check magnets.
bi

The Air gap is kinda baked into the design I can't really change that except for sanding down the steel. The bearings seem quality, not much play in them. I ordered them from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/6138K65/ <edit to add> I will eventually remove the rubber gasket on the bearings to reduce friction but for now there is too much debris until i finish

In the picture below the red is acrylic, yellow is the magnet(s), the grey is the steel. Currently because my steel cutting abilities suck, the steel came out bigger then expected. Which in a way is a good thing. So the outer rotor will not currently fit inside the strator. Same thing happened with the inner rotor to the outer rotor. I had to sand it down. So its a one way permanent adjustment. Unless I cut more steel. Which I have been thinking about doing because I can fit another magnet in there to make it stronger. Currently I have three .25 inch cube magnets where the yellow is in the picture. I could have fit 4 and I don't know why I didn't.

No dial indicator, no specialty tools like that, but I do want to buy one sometime. I wanted one when i build my cnc to test for play, just never got around to getting one. I'm thinking the magnets might be n42, but I'll will probably just order an assortment of grades and test them all. As for your previous post before, you mention temperature claim. I doubt this thing will ever get that hot, I'm just building this to see if the claim is real. If it is, I will not use acrylic in the next build. Unless "temperature claim" means something else besides what i'm thinking it does.

Thanks for all your inputs so far.

bistander · « **Reply #329 on:** May 14, 2023, 10:23:47 PM »

Quote from: Drak on May 14, 2023, 09:04:05 PM

The Air gap is kinda baked into the design I can't really change that except for sanding down the steel. The bearings seem quality, not much play in them. I ordered them from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/6138K65/ <edit to add> I will eventually remove the rubber gasket on the bearings to reduce friction but for now there is too much debris until i finish

In the picture below the red is acrylic, yellow is the magnet(s), the grey is the steel. Currently because my steel cutting abilities suck, the steel came out bigger then expected. Which in a way is a good thing. So the outer rotor will not currently fit inside the strator. Same thing happened with the inner rotor to the outer rotor. I had to sand it down. So its a one way permanent adjustment. Unless I cut more steel. Which I have been thinking about doing because I can fit another magnet in there to make it stronger. Currently I have three .25 inch cube magnets where the yellow is in the picture. I could have fit 4 and I don't know why I didn't.

No dial indicator, no specialty tools like that, but I do want to buy one sometime. I wanted one when i build my cnc to test for play, just never got around to getting one. I'm thinking the magnets might be n42, but I'll will probably just order an assortment of grades and test them all. As for your previous post before, you mention temperature claim. I doubt this thing will ever get that hot, I'm just building this to see if the claim is real. If it is, I will not use acrylic in the next build. Unless "temperature claim" means something else besides what i'm thinking it does.

Thanks for all your inputs so far.

Hi Drak,

Re: 3 to 4 magnets. On surface one might think this will increase flux, and therefore force, by 33%. Fallacy. Doesn't work that way. Yes, there is benefit, but not as you might expect. Without going into theory detail, which a textbook would serve you better than I, do this. Use. This magnetic calculator.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/calculator.asp?calcType=block
Use N42. I sample ran 0.25 x 0.25 x 0.75 thick & 0.025 inch gap vs same only 1.0 inch thick. Not much difference in pull force at all.

Change the face area, like 0.25 x 0.5 x 0.75" thick and see the difference.

Like they say at the race track, run what you brung. Modify later.
bi

ps. It was likely the bearing seals removed. And likely they were greased. Especially if you may have contaminated them, clean/flush with solvent to remove all grease and lubricate with light oil, not wd40. Occasionally add a drop of oil. Keep clean, perhaps fashion paper non contact shields.

Cookie	Origin	Persistency	Information and Usage
ecl_auth	overunity.com	Expires after 30 days	This cookie contains the text "EU Cookie Law - LiPF cookies authorised". Without this cookie, the Forums' software is prevented from setting other cookies.
SMFCookie648	overunity.com	Expires according to user-chosen session duration	If you log-in as a member of this site, this cookie contains your user name, an encrypted hash of your password and the time you logged-in. It is used by the site software to ensure that features such as indicating new Forum and Private messages are indicated to you. This cookie is essential for the site software to work correctly.
PHPSESSID	overunity.com	Current session only	This cookie contains a unique Session Identification value. It is set for both members and non-members (guests) and it is essential for the site software to work correctly. This cookie is not persistent and should be automatically removed when you close the browser window.
pmx_upshr{NAME}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records your display preferences for the site's Portal page if a panel or individual block is collapsed or expanded
pmx_pgidx_blk{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the page number for the site's Portal page if the page for a individual block is changed.
pmx_cbtstat{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the expand/collapse state for a CBT Navigator block content.
pmx_poll{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the id for the current poll in a multiple Poll block.
pmx_{fadername}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the state for a Opac-Fader block.
pmx_LSBsub{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the current category and the state for a static Category block.
pmx_shout{ID}	overunity.com	Current session only	These cookies are set to records the current state of a Shout box block.
pmx_php_ckeck	overunity.com	Page load time	This cookie will probably never see you. It is set, if a Syntax check on a PHP block is initiated and will be deleted if the function executed.
pmx_YOfs	overunity.com	Page load time	This cookie will probably never see you. It is set on portal actions like click on a page number. The cookie is evaluated on load the desired page and then deleted. It is used to restore the vertical screen position as before the click.

1	We are aware that Google uses additional cookies it stores on your PC and when you browse our site and all other sites. These are used to target advertising and Google currently does this without seeking your permission. Four of these cookies we know about are named "rememberme", "NID", "PREF" and "PP_TOS_ACK" and are stored in Google's cache on your computer.
2	If you are accessing this site using someone else's computer, please ask the owner's permission before accepting cookies.
3	Your browser provides you with the ability to inspect all cookies stored on your PC. In addition your browser is responsible for removing "current session only" cookies and those that have expired; if your browser is not doing this, you should report the matter to your browser's authors.
4	We regret and apologies for any inconvenience this causes to members and guests who are accessing our web site from outside the European Union. It is not currently possible for us to interrogate your browser and obtain geographic location information in order to decide whether or not to prompt you to accept cookies.

News:

User Menu

Author Topic: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity! (Read 42039 times)

lumen

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

kolbacict

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

ramset

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

kolbacict

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

Drak

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

bistander

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

Jimboot

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

Drak

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

bistander

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

Drak

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

bistander

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

bistander

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

lancaIV

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

Drak

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!

bistander

Re: Magnetic flux motor just patented that creates it's own electricity!