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Author Topic: The Secret Of The Clem Engine  (Read 570 times)

Offline TommeyReed

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The Secret Of The Clem Engine
« on: June 02, 2022, 01:00:55 AM »
Hi All,

After years of experimenting on the building and test different version of the Clem engine I decided to explain how it worked.


Offline citfta

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Re: The Secret Of The Clem Engine
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2022, 05:55:43 PM »
Hi Tom,

I have been following your efforts to build a working Clem engine for several years now.  First I must say your mechanical building skills are excellent.  However you keep missing some fundamental laws of hydraulics.  First you need to understand that any sudden change in direction or pressure results in added load on the driving force and added heat build up in the hydraulic fluid.  In each of your designs I have seen you have fluid coming straight out from the axis and then into a 90 degree turn to give you the propulsion effect from the fluid being ejected.  You also have a fairly large volume of relatively slow moving fluid which then suddenly is supposed to accelerate to high velocity to give the needed thrust to rotate your rotor.

I have a design for you to try if you are interested.  It solves the problems I have pointed out.  Whether it will self run or not I don't know.  I don't have the mechanical skill or time to try it but would love to see what it would do.

First visualize a long cone shape with the large end attached to your center axis and supplied fluid by your pump.  Now in your mind visualize gradually bending that cone shape so that the small end is eventually 90 degrees to the axis.  The small end needs to be pretty small so as to give plenty of thrust.  The cone should probably be long enough to go at least half way around the rotor or even farther.  The more of the cone that is out near the edge of the rotor the more fluid there is to be accelerated by the centripetal force.  With this design the fluid can now go from a high volume low velocity state to a high velocity low volume state and thus save a lot of energy and heat build up.  For balance and efficiency you would probably need at least 4 of the cones mounted on your rotor.  An idea I had to make the cones relatively easy at least to test the concept would be to use  soft copper tubing and gradually reduce the size by soldering in the next smaller size as you get away from the center.  Maybe start with 1/2 inch tubing and gradually work down to 1/8 inch for the nozzle.