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Author Topic: Luling magnet motor with 3D printed parts (motion only bij permanent magnets)  (Read 8049 times)

Offline Ufopolitics

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Hey Knovos,


What can I say??




IT LOOKS AWESOME MAN!!


Related to Piston weight...you can do it as you wrote before...or


You could print the Piston in two parts, with a rear cap bolted on with just one bolt in a center solid column you will leave inside and hollow AROUND, making sure some steel metal washers could fit inside...


This way you could try different weights...as getting inside steel washers...or even nuts... 8)




Take care




Ufopolitics

Offline knovos

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Thank You! I will print everything now and see how it goes.
And ya, of course, it is better to make the piston weight adjustable too.


regards,
Knovos

Offline Ufopolitics

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Hello Knovos,


Hope everything is Ok...


Here I will show how you need  to have your Springs setup plus Distances to travel...Sorry, this is something I should have written and explain before!!

Since I have not build the Piston and have it working (I am still waiting for Springs) did not think about this IMPORTANT PART.


Meaning, Spring size contracted, Mounting Tension size  plus Max extension Size will be DICTATING the size of your Wall to Wall Distance.


I have included a Graphic with the Three Positions that Spring could be...


FIG 1 Spring is exactly at Center of the Distance from Front Wall to Rear Wall...and nothing happens here...Spring is under some tension BUT not FULLY CHARGED AND LOCKED at Rear position, so it can not go anywhere.


FIG 2 BOUNCING/RETURN STAGE : Spring is under tension pulled by Front Plate plus Piston Weight plus Previous FORWARD Travel Velocity...Please note, Front Plate is NOT TOUCHING Front Wall!!
If Front (or Rear) Plates HIT EITHER WALLS the BOUNCING EFFECT or FORWARD MOVEMENT will NOT take place, it is Killed, Dead!!


FIG 3 SPRING CHARGED/LOCKED AT REAR Please note on this Stage, Rear Plate is NOT TOUCHING REAR WALL!!


And here is the tricky part...When Piston goes backwards and contacts the Back plate, it needs to have SOME BACK PLAY stretching Spring to the MAX and still be able to be LOCKED in place without touching rear Wall!!




Think about a Round Jumping Trampoline principle...it needs to be set ABOVE GROUND (Walls here)...and that Distance from floor will be dictated by the MAX stretch of the Trampolin...


If You are jumping...and because you have jumped too  highor because your excesive weight, and you get to even touch the floor...you will not Bounce back up...


Same exact principle rules here...




Regards




Ufopolitics

Offline knovos

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I've been busy printing the parts, but made a few mistakes. It was all not solid enough, wrong material saving and wrong time-saving. I understand what you're saying about the springs. I didn't think about it that way and more or less blindly adopted your idea with the expectation that it would work. No problem, this is a big learning process and there will be a possible solution, I may have to make everything from scratch so be it, this machine will run! It's just a shame that we're probably the only ones in the world working on this technique. It would be nice if others get involved and offer the right solutions because they know a method that works. In the coming days, I will put the current model together, and maybe if you physically have it in your hands there will be an idea to solve this.


regards,
Knovos

Offline floodrod

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It would be nice if others get involved and offer the right solutions because they know a method that works.

regards,
Knovos

I'm working on it also.  But I don't want to pollute your thread and really have nothing to show as of yet.  My plan is to first get the main frame and actions working and running with electronics to start off..  Then when i know I have everything tweaked to work, then consider replacing the electronics with a mechanical solution as yous are discussing. 

I'd be happy to post my progress and stl files here to share when I got something to show- BUT I will not stomp into your thread uninvited.

Offline knovos

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Good to know someone is still working on this technique. But what you say is correct. If you come up with electronic solutions then you make a completely different machine and it is better to open a thread yourself with this approach.

Offline Ufopolitics

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Hello again,

Basically, You need the Springs BEFORE making it...as Spring will set all TRAVEL DISTANCES.

And here is a Solution, without going and re-printing the outer housing again... ;)


Remember when I suggested to build the Outer Housing case in THREE PARTS?
As also I suggested to use a full bolt from wall to wall?


1- A Front Wall
2- A Rear Wall
3- Piston Housing


Well, I know You have a Rear Wall and a Center Housing which includes the Front Wall, according to your drawings...So, all  you will need to do is either cut-divide the front wall from center housing...
or just make those two pieces separate again...


Just get four long enough Threaded Rod (a bolt without the head) and Nuts and washers...as I show on graphic below.


This way, when spring arrives you could set the right distance and test maximum stretch distance...


This Force that you apply in order to stretch spring to max, SHOULD BE MEASURED...in order to calculate Your PISTON WEIGHT or to choose the right spring.


In the case of the OTF Knife, the BLADE WEIGHT is COMPENSATED with Spring Specifications (Max Stretch) PLUS  the TRAVELED DISTANCE...


So, main point here is that Plates can NEVER HIT the Rear or Front Plates!!


Later, once you have OTF Piston working beautifully...You still need to take Your Piston Force MEASURED delivered at the END STROKE*...


And this Force MUST BE GREATER than the Force it takes to separate your Attract Magnet...


*Measuring End Stroke Force: You need to set your Digital Gauge FACING Piston front shaft (tool comes with a Point attachment)...Gauge must be bolted on a plate where your OTF Piston assembly is  also bolted on that plate...


Move your Piston loosely forward to the max...by hand, and make sure it contacts the gauge at its maximum stretch.


Then you CHARGE your Piston by retracting it and locking it...release trigger while looking at digital screen...As this Gauges (at least mine) does not retain measured newtons and resets back to zero as force ends and piston kicks back...it only shows measured force for less than a second.


It may take a few attempts to get the right measurement...or the average force after a few tests.


There is a lot of patience required in order to build this whole motor and be successful...and follow all steps guidelines...otherwise it will not work.


And after all of the above is achieved successfully...You still need to test Your Piston at high speed...in order to check your Trigger-Locking Latch mechanism is also working perfectly fine.


So, you will also need to build a Testing platform for this Testing...a simple one...a small electric motor that you could measure its RPM's...with a stick at shaft which hits your piston trigger lever and some type of switch at the end of piston, which counts the Strokes per minute...everytime it extends and hits switch.


This test is crucial in order to know your Piston does not makes "False Triggers" or do not lock well at high speeds...if it fails...then the locking system needs some fixing...


Realize the perfect piston needs to stroke twice per RPM...without any failures...so, just going 100 RPM's...it must do 200 strokes per minute...


Every Magnet have a SPECIFIC REPULSE FORCE...depending on size, geometry, grade etc,etc...and this Force will dictate the Max speed that your motor would go...if Piston-Trigger Mechanism responds accurately to every REPULSION STROKE (repulse force at angular momentum).




Regards




Ufopolitics

Offline Ufopolitics

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Hello Floodrod,


You are very welcome to open your own Thread here:


https://overunity.com/lueling-magnet-motor/


Then choose "New Topic"


And please, add your name to your Thread, for future easier access...like "Floodrod Luling Mechanical-Magnetic Motor Build"...or the like.


And yes, it is a great idea to use electronics to test your motor...or to test whatever...


Remember than in  order to repair or even to diagnose an Engine, we all need a scanner connected to an ECM (Electronic Control Module) which tells the Faulty Codes...


And if you look at my previous post, I proposed Knovos a few tests...and one of them, the latest, Speed Stress Test  requires to build a specific platform which triggers the Piston latch with a small electric motor...while measuring the strokes versus the RPM's of Motor...


And guys, for anyone that have seen my video...and does not responds to himself that this is an "Air Motor"...LOL....Knows that We can build this thing and make it SUPERB!!




Regards and Welcome to our Builder's Thread!!




Ufopolitics
« Last Edit: March 17, 2022, 06:16:40 PM by Ufopolitics »

Offline floodrod

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Thank you both. I am actively watching both your builds and wish you both much success. I will take your invitation and open a thread when I have the basics in place :)

Offline knovos

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I'll have to wait for my pressure gauge first. This has now become too much trial and error.

Offline knovos

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I think I've found a great tool for making springs myself. In the description of that video is a download to these STL files. But when I searched deeper I even came across a .SCAD file where you can adjust all parameters of this model
https://youtu.be/QOz2l867N_4


https://github.com/jshessen/SpringFactory
You need to place the library files into the folder BOSL and use the latest (free) Open Scad application.


Of course, you will have to play with this to see what strengths you can achieve for what you need, but with the compression gauss meter, it will have to be very controllable. 8)

Offline knovos

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It's time for me to go bare-bones to admit that 3D printing falls short for these kinds of mechanical applications. It's a nice quick way of prototyping. But if you want a final product with the high precision and stability required, it becomes very difficult.


I managed to make several systems (photo1), but they all failed. Too many forces were required, or there was too much play in the material. I did find a perfect solution for the spinning disk, USE A HARDDRIVE BEARING.
You can use the hard drive housing and flip the bearing. This is where you attach the disc. Incredibly smooth spinning. But despite that, I ended up with a vertical version (photo 2).

Offline knovos

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Because the disc spins so great it is tempting for me to try to make an electronic pulse system on it. If that works, we can turn it into a closed loop system and see how much energy is left for harvesting.

Offline Ufopolitics

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Because the disc spins so great it is tempting for me to try to make an electronic pulse system on it. If that works, we can turn it into a closed loop system and see how much energy is left for harvesting.

Hello Knovos,

I am glad to see you are still working on this project...(thumbs up) :)

I will be launching soon a new design based on the same Lüling Neutralization principle, which changes radically the Stator Actuator we have been working on.
The new design consists on making the changes (turning ON/OFF Neutralization) on the Rotor, not on the Stator.
Which will also include a Stator mounted, fast acting actuator with minimal triggering angle and force.
This actuator I have already shown it on my main thread...as it also serves for the Stator switching design.
It is based on Three(3) Springs, two "twins" and a center trigger unbalancing, smaller spring, all attached to a "T" Pivot lever.

This time I am about 90% sure it will work...but it does have a lot of work, plus very high precision...as the rotor will have built in, four magnet-pistons, and the Stator will only need two(2) fixed magnets...and this would be just one "Module" of the  whole engine...which ciould have 2,4,5, 6 or 8 modules attached to the same shaft.

I am gathering all materials for it...already have the neos, cylinders of 3/4 inch by 1/2 inch with sink holes for #8 screws...
The material I will be mounting this whole thing is clear plexiglass 1 1/2 inch 6 inch rotor...
I am making it clear so we could see all theinside hardware at work on my next video..."SELF RUNNING LÜLING MAGNET MOTOR".

Regards

Ufopolitics

Offline knovos

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Hey Ufopolitics!


I've seen the drawings. Not easy to understand what you mean. I am amazed and also excited that you are so confident that it is going to work, I really hope so. Maybe when the time comes and it really starts to work, I want to look again at whether it can still be done with 3D printed materials. It would be such a great exchange worldwide.


respect!
Leon.