Hello,


ABOUT THE ROLLERS I AM USING...

Here are a couple of images to show the rollers I am using on my setup...(they are ALL like this)


If you notice they are not regular rollers mounted on a shaft...but they ALL have edges, like a  SPOOL, in order that they roll on the levers borders as well.


I do this in order that levers do NOT SLIDE OFF tracks, as some are set far away from their pivoting points...


All they need is a drop of grease inside and outside their shafts and rolling surfaces.





Regards




Ufopolitics

Is there a possibility to share the CAD-files .STEP format or native what application do you use for CAD design?


Looks well thought out but can't see how it works. But maybe that's part of my intelligence. When you have built everything, a video will show you how it works. It will be a huge achievement and pave the way for a unique engine that the world has not yet seen in an open-source setting.

A GENERAL ADVICE ABOUT THIS BUILD...AND SOME ENGINEERING TIPS


In Engineering DESIGN of complex Mechanical Systems, it is always recommended to brake/separate the whole assembly, THE ENTIRE MACHINE, or ENGINE into "Sub-Systems"...This is done for two main  reasons.


1- To be able to dedicate (In the DESIGN STAGE) to each Sub System a SPECIFIC FUNCTION which is some how attached to the whole system, but runs independently when looking at it isolated.


Example: In a Diesel Common Rail Pump...We almost always have a Small Primary Feed Pump, incorporated to the main Pump Embodiment or Housing, which is in charge to keep a constant -low pressure- fuel feeding to the Pump, but basically used for "Priming" the pump from empty, preventing from self damage.
It is connected to the Main shaft mechanically and Fuel Input to this primary feed small pump, however, its components run as a "Sub System" in order to be taken apart without going into the Main Pump Assembly.


Another more General example: In a Car Engine, We have so many "Sub Systems" that it is very hard to cite them all here...like Cooling System, Electrical System, Lubricating System, Ignition System, Fuel Injection System, Timing System...and so on and on...and on.


2- At the time to DIAGNOSE A FAILURE, it would help Us to go directly to the specified Sub System, which is causing the Engine not to run at all, or running with failures, like stalling...or overheating...etc,etc...since We have dedicated a SPECIFIC FUNCTION to each Sub System.


Now, whenever building a Complex Prototype like this Lüling Motor...We must follow the same Engineering principles above, HOWEVER, when building ANY PROTOTYPE we must have in mind How to make ALL POSSIBLE ADJUSTMENTS in our Build, and applying it to ALL separate Sub Systems.

This would help Us to be able to DIAGNOSE why it is NOT RUNNING?...Where is the issue?, or the malfunction that we need to correct.


If We build it as a WHOLE COMPLEX, ALL ENCLOSED ASSEMBLY set, without Sub systems build separately or be able to take them apart separately, and be able to check each, also separatedly...then it would be very hard for Us to identify where the failure is!!


And so, we end up "disregarding" this build...and maybe, just maybe, we had the solution in our hands...and only a little change of one of our sub systems would have make it work perfectly well.




Hope this help you all in your build, as it will also take frustrations to a more easier to resolve level.




Regards




Ufopolitics

Thanks for the wise lessons Ufopolitics. I actually figured out myself to make as many separate components as possible. Because 3D printing takes a long time, this was the main reason, adjustments can now be reprinted quickly instead of large parts that are full of elements that take forever. That last drawing you show there is much clearer. I see a small rod triggering the firing mechanism. Then a whole system of springs and handles is activated without causing drag because it is separate from the turntable.


Even though you use crapy software and do everything custom-made with different machining techniques, I'm still interested in the files even though they are 2D. With 3D printing, there are still many possibilities to make strong components with special plastics. Maybe tweaked here and there.


Maybe I can copy your latest drawing into Autodesk Fusion 360. Basically, everything is there. A high-resolution version would help me a lot with that.


regards,
Knovos

OTF (Out To Front) Knife Mechanism



Hello to All,


I am very happy to say that I have found the "perfect mechanism" to build this Engine...it is much simpler to build than the one I have shown before...and yes, Knovos, it could also be made of plastic printed parts...


Of course, some modifications would need to be done from the original mechanism...but the main principle is basically the same...


A very short and smooth triggering, while delivering an output of a greater distance and with much more force, and very fast response!!


So, here is a video, where it is completely taken apart in all components (and there are many more vids like this on YouTube) and explained its main principle.


For our purpose of operation, we need to remove (in our design) the rear "fully retract" Locking System or the Spring Pin...in order that it does not locks in the backward (retracted) position, but returns to front very fast...and then locks only at the front then released with a front trigger mechanism....which would be released in a timely fashion by the Rotor actuator and lever combinations...just a couple of millimiters...




HOW MICROTECH OTF (OUT THE FRONT) KNIVES WORK




Regards




Ufopolitics

Hello Knovos,


Yes, I think so...plus if we do it right, I am sure it will run.


Here I will show a quick drawing of one of the many ways that it could be figured out ...And built


I have set it here as a Piston-Cylinder embodiment, in a Section (cut) view to see all inner components.


TOP IMAGE the Yellow Piston has traveled all the way out, and locked by Red Front Lever. Note I have set anther locking lever in the back.
There are Two Blue End Caps, and are set in place by the two tension springs, upper and lower. These Two Blue End Caps can easily slide inside-out of Green Cylinder...but adding tension to springs when expanded outwards.


LOWER IMAGE the Yellow Piston has traveled all the way back, and locked by the rear red lever (Red Levers are anchored at main setup plate)


Note Blue End Caps move, according to piston positioning-lock


The main function is that piston hits and pushes the end caps outwards, extending spring (tension) until it locks in place at both positions.




However, for our application, we do NOT need the Yellow Piston to lock at the end position (retracted) when it hits the rear Blue End Cap...but just to gain a great bounce force to go forward again and lock ONLY at the front red lever...where we will set the triggering actuated by the Rotor Actuator.




We could use the rear locking lever to stop Rotor, by holding Piston retracted.


And of course, it could also be built as is the knife, in a flat rectangular housing...whichever form would be better to be built...




Regards




Ufopolitics

Hello,


I finally finished making my 2D Model of the OTC Piston, NOW I am very happy with the final result, so  I will proceed to build it in 3D and set animation, etc,etc...I love it!!

I made it in order to be easily taken apart and reassemble...just a few screws so far.


I will also add some rubber or plastic washers to deaden sound...but that would be at the end though...


Let me explain some important setup before proceeding to build, even in CAD...


There are TWO WAYS to make this piston work on our build:


1- Shaft Normally Inwards or Retracted and locked


2- Shaft Normally Outwards or Extruded and locked.


For the purposes of this design, as I have also used on my originally Pneumatic setup, I have chosen #1, or Shaft Normally Retracted (in my video setup, pneumatic piston is retracted by Spring Action...so when air valve opens air flow, it pushes Piston outwards.


Now, the way that you will need to set up this Normally Closed, is by Piston Pushing Outwards to SET NEUTRALIZATION OFF, or separating Attract Magnet or spreading Attraction Gap, once actuated by Rotor Rod or Roller...then retracting Piston back In.


This arrangement should work beautifully, it may need some adjustments, as spring tension, or Locking Latch adjustment or shape modification...in  order to catch properly at high speeds...


I have added an image of what I am working on...
The red bracket-trigger lever is just shown for demo purposes...


As I have also added a Cut View of the Front View, mainly in order to see the Blue Part shape to allow to be bolted to main outer frame as to allows Springs to pass by.


-This Blue piece could be made to house Two, Three or Four Springs, by changing its shape...


-The Front and Rear Golden thick Discs slide freely inside outer frame INNER WALLS and are attached to Springs, sanwhiched between Blue Piece-Cylinder...as the Piston "bangs" them back and forth (And here is where I want to insert the plastic washers to deaden sound)


The rear Golden Disc, I have added a Shaft to make it more precise on its back-forth movement...PLUS, if You notice the Red Trigger pass by it...well, I will have to add a Square Hole on the Disc to allow red lever to go through and be able to go up-down freely...not seen here but will be able to notice on 3D Graphics.


It is very important to choose the right springs for this...I have ordered the original, 304 Steel springs from original UT (UltraTech) knife...as this have perfect measurements for my purpose and size...they are cheap and easy available on EBAY...


They are 2.5 mm of circle, lenght is 44 mm and wire is 0.5 mm.


All these parts are pretty easy to make in a small Lathe, and finished in a small CNC Milling Machine...point here is that they need to be built very accurately, so they slide in-out whitout much restriction...


I like the Piston Shaped Design just because it can easily be mounted and adjusted in this design, as it can also be checked and corrected outside the setup...






Regards




Ufopolitics


P.D: I will build the Main Piston in Steel, and the Drum part is around 19 mm Diameter...so it will also serve as a Counter weight to assist adding force to every stroke.