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Author Topic: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power  (Read 17530 times)

Spherenot

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FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« on: January 13, 2007, 06:05:41 PM »
Try this: FBCS-22-2D.A

Bill of Materials

1. (1) oscilloscope, with (1) probe
2. (1) 25 ft. length, 22 gauge solid, "hook-up & lead wire"
3. (2) old CDs, (Revision A: Use clear CDs; less the metallic layer.)
4. adhesive tape (optional)
5. super-glue, cyanoacrylate (optional)

Assembly  (I basically made a flat-bifilar-coil sandwich.)

1. Start with one slice of CD.

2. Completely cover surface of CD with wire as shown in Figure 2 of Nikola Tesla's, US Patent 512,340, "COIL FOR ELECTRO MAGNETS."
http://www.google.com/patents?vid=USPAT512340

3. I used paper tape, cyanoacrylate glue, bits of skin from my fingertips, and some profanity to fix the wires to the CD.  It worked but there must be a better way!  I started at the center and worked my way out to the edge, or 'crust.'

4. I then removed most of the paper tape, except adhesive layers stuck to the glue, then I added more glue dressing over the top of the wires.

5. Cover with second slice of CD, weight the top, and wait for glue to dry.

6. Connect wires together as shown in Figure 2 of patent above.  It is simple, but easy to screw-up.  We could get one 'spiral' connected to itself and end up testing only half of the 'embodiment.'  Luckily, the inner and outer edges of the CD are clear, so we can distinguish the outer-spiral wire from the inner-spiral wire.

Now we have a flat-bifilar-coil-sandwich.  Since I used 22 gauge wire and 2 CDs, I will call it the: FBCS-22-2D design.

Testing

1. Connection: There are two ways to place the FBCS-22-2D on a flat surface and two ways to wire it to the 'scope.  We wire it one way and if we do not see results then we flip the FBCS-22-2D over.  If flipping it over is too much for us we could also switch the wires.  But if we flip the unit over and switch the wires we return to the same condition.

In a horizontal configuration, I found reception to be much stronger with the scope leads connected in either one of two ways:

   a.  the red-probe-tip connected at center wire, (outer-spiral wire,) with counter-clockwise rotation as viewed from the top, or

   b.  the red-probe-tip connected at edge, (inner-spiral wire,) wire with clockwise rotation as viewed from the top.

Your results may very in the southern hemisphere there, Lindsay.

Yes, this FBCS-22-2D is inversion sensitive.  Remind us of anything?

2. Oscilloscope Settings: TIME/DIV = 0.1 ?S/D,   (VOLTS/DIV = 5 mV/D),  AC setting

3. My Graticule Results: Sine Wave: DIV/CYCLE = 7 D/C,   (~10 mV p-t-p)

4. Calculate Frequency: (1 C / 7 D)(1 D / 0.1 ?S) = 1,430,000 C/S = 1.43 MHz

5. Search frequency online: "?1.43 MHz which corresponds to the electron gyrofrequency in the Earth?s magnetic field at  200 km altitude."
http://www.ann-geophys.net/23/101/2005/angeo-23-101-2005.pdf

Of what use is a free 10 mV peak-to-peak sine wave oscillating with Earth's magnetic field?


UPDATE:  Wondering if the aluminum layer in the CDs was helping or hurting, I decided to add CDs two at a time; one on top and one on the bottom of the FBCS-22-2D.

I find that the strength of this frequency varies from time to time and that my body seems to be an antenna.  When I place my hand over the unit the amplitude will begin to increase at a distance of about two inches and increases two or three fold as my hand comes into contact and I apply more pressure.

If I place a small puddle of water on the top of the unit and just touch the puddle with what is left of my glue-battered finger-tip I get a sudden increase in amplitude as well.

Anyway, as I add the extra layers of CD's to the unit the amplitude gets smaller and smaller with each successive layer.

So, I recommend using the clear CDs from now on.

UPDATE:  I just broke off [removed by breaking] the top CD. [The unit is fine.]

Tonight I am getting weaker signals than last night.  The peak-to-peak was dropping down to about 6 mV and, even though I am using the lowest VOLTS/DIV setting, the sine wave tracking was hard for my scope to follow and I would  intermittently see a wide fizzy band until I placed my hand over the unit, slightly increasing the amplitude, and the sine wave would pop back onto screen.

With the top CD removed I am getting a steady 10 mV peak-to-peak just like last night with the top CD on.

UPDATE: 16/JAN/07


The FBC-30-4W was a failure.  Seven hours winding shot in the ass.  No strong signals detected.

The FBCS-22-2D.A turns out to be accidentally tuned to 4600 kHz AM, not 4300 kHz as originally calculated.

I calculate that I should have seen 6.85 divisions, for 4600 kHz, instead of the 7.0 divisions, for 4300 kHz, that I thought I saw on my scope.  I took a second look and it looks like maybe 6.9 divisions at the least.  Close enough; 2.1% error in my original reading.

I confirmed my theory tonight.  I hooked up FBCS-22-2D.A again to my scope but this time I adjusted to the 2 mS / DIV range.  Pulled my AM radio out of the garage, tuned to 4600 AM and watched my scope.  Guess what?

Video attached just below pictures below. [I need to try to reconvert the video again!  I lost the sound!   >:(  The video is useless without sound.  Why can't I upload my "3g2" video clip,... with the sound?  There may never be a video posted here.  Anyway, it showed the mixing signals on the scope "dancing" to the radio station's music.]

« Last Edit: January 18, 2007, 12:12:32 AM by Spherenot »

gyulasun

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2007, 08:06:22 PM »
Hi,

Thanks for the interesting infos.

Would you place a capacitor of 30-50pF in parallel with your wire endings (just the wires you connect the scope probe to)?
A variable capacitor of 200-500pF would be even better to tune the pancake coil and see if the amplitude of the present 10mVpp changes.
Wonder what formula you used to calculate the frequency of 1.43MHz. Is it included somewhere on the web?

Regards
Gyula

argona369

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2007, 08:14:23 PM »
.
« Last Edit: September 11, 2007, 02:35:43 AM by argona369 »

Spherenot

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2007, 08:20:17 PM »
Hi,

Thanks for the interesting infos.

Would you place a capacitor of 30-50pF in parallel with your wire endings (just the wires you connect the scope probe to)?
A variable capacitor of 200-500pF would be even better to tune the pancake coil and see if the amplitude of the present 10mVpp changes.
Wonder what formula you used to calculate the frequency of 1.43MHz. Is it included somewhere on the web?

Regards
Gyula

I will check my ultra-limited and disorganized supply of capacitors.

I do not know if we can rightly call unit conversion ratios a fully grown 'formula'.

Spherenot

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2007, 08:23:33 PM »
Very cool.
What about adding a variable Cap to that to turn it into a LC circuit
tuned to resonate at 1.43 MHz ?


Again, I will see what I can do about adding the caps.

For resonance, I was thinking about controlling the length of the wire to a division of the mysteriously calculated wavelength of 688 ft.  Perhaps half at 344 ft., or a quarter at 172 ft.  I can probably fit it on a CD if I use smaller gauge mag-wire.

Yamanashi Jr

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2007, 08:38:30 PM »
Spherenot
Great work.
Never did that myself, can you give us some details?
(Lenght of wire, more or less, because I would like to compare with a "normal" coil.)
Capacitance
Resistance
and indutance of the coil.
please if you can, so that we can work with numbers on this side. Many thanks.
Do you think it would work in a cilinder type also insted of a flat coil? There's a lot of stuff behind close doors.

argona369

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2007, 08:45:02 PM »
.
« Last Edit: September 11, 2007, 02:34:23 AM by argona369 »

Spherenot

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2007, 09:04:35 PM »
...can you give us some details?
(Lenght of wire, more or less, because I would like to...)
::)
Long story.  I initially miscalculated length and thought I needed fifty feet to fill a CD.  I was not sure I had enough on my spool so I quickly tried to count one foot at a time with a fat finger error at each foot.  I ran out before fifty feet.

I had thirty something, not sure.  So, I thought I would just fill as much of the CD as I could.  I did; I had extra wire.  What a surprise!

I removed the extra wire, about a dozen feet or so.  I did not measure it because it did not matter without an accurate initial length.  My bad.  (I will not make this mistake on my second unit.)

I went back over my calculations, saw my blunder, and recalculated the length as shown in post one.

By the way, there are no more details.  It is simply a pancake coil attached to an oscilloscope,... for now.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2007, 06:55:46 AM by Spherenot »

Spherenot

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2007, 09:12:32 PM »
Also LC circuit should be tunable to 1.43 somewhat regardless of wire length?

I suppose.  I would rather find a way to control the cut length instead of adding more parts,... for now.

giantkiller

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2007, 09:19:34 PM »
@Spherenot,
Of what use is a free 10 mV peak-to-peak sine wave oscillating with Earth's magnetic field?

I think you've hit the Motherlode!
I was surprised when I put 2 pancakes together and got ringing so easly. I followed Tesla's MT patent that Marco/turbo had pointed out. That is where I got 22 turns for my GK4 core. I wound 2, 2 layer(speaker wire pair) pancakes and pulsed 1 line from the outside and the coupled that inside line back to the second layery outside. Then took the output from the second layer inside. So the coils pulsed from the outside fed back out and then back into the center. So you have a magnetic toroidial wave squeezing towards the center with a secondary wave behind it. I tried it from the center to the outside and didn't see anything. Probably no squeezing going on.
Cheap to do and took 20 minutes.

--giantkiller.

Spherenot

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2007, 09:42:10 PM »
@Spherenot,
Of what use is a free 10 mV peak-to-peak sine wave oscillating with Earth's magnetic field?

I think you've hit the Motherlode!
--giantkiller.


Thanks, GK.   :)

Those clips you see in the pic's go straight to the 'scope.  The planet Earth, (or HAARP,) is powering my coil.  Not useful power levels but useful for finding 1.43 MHz.  I am happy you persuaded me to get the scope.  :'(

I have a long way to go.  Baby steps here.

giantkiller

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2007, 09:45:22 PM »
@Spherenot,
You're welcome, on the scope. No more looking at blanks walls, eh?
Well if I don't achieve anything esle, that was worth it!

---giantkiller.

MeggerMan

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #12 on: January 14, 2007, 12:11:57 AM »
I think I have got another way of winding this coil:
1. Take the two clear disks you get from a stack of blank CDRs.
2. Put them onto the spindle and drill a 4mm hole on the inside of the rib near the CD centre.
3. Put a 4mm bolt into this hole and drill 3 more holes at 90, 180, 270 degrees (first hole at 0 degrees).
4. Drill two small holes the diameter of your wire just outside the rib say 180 degrees apart.
5. feed two wires into these holes.
6. Add the remaining bolts.
7. Wind the coil whilst gripping the disks, do not allow the wires to twist inside the disks.
8. Tape the ends off to the edge of the disk.
Because the disks are clear this may not allow the experiment to work but you can see the coil while you wind it.
Dip the whole lot in water, shake it, then put it in the freezer. The extreme cold will cause the plastic to harden into its set shape and the water between the windings will bind them together.
Give it an hour or so, take it out, carefully pop the disks off the coil and replace with normal CDs.

I have been toying with various ideas for winding pancake coils for a few weeks now.
Two 1cm thick acrylic disks would be even better as a winding former as they do not flex.

I have been trying to figure out various ways to glue the windings in place as they are wound, without them sticking to the former, so that I can re-use the former for more coils.
Ideas like dipping the wire in varnish just before it is wound onto the former.
If I rub some wax onto the former halves before it is assembled it will not cause the varnish to stick to it. But will the varnish go off in a confined space with no air getting to it?
May need to experiment.

Regards

Rob


Spherenot

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #13 on: January 14, 2007, 01:02:01 AM »
I have been toying with various ideas for winding pancake coils for a few weeks now.
Two 1cm thick acrylic disks would be even better as a winding former as they do not flex.

Yes.  I was thinking of winding inside a narrow gap as well.  We need rigidity along the whole radius of the back of the CD's; perhaps three or more right angle gussets.

Any flexing will allow the outer-spiral-wire the opportunity to slip past the inner-spiral-wire.

Another method to remedy this slipping may be the use of a flat profile wire.

Also, I would like someone to try it without the aluminum in the CD; using the clear CDs.  I do not know if the aluminum layer helped or hurt my results.  UPDATE: I tested this.  See first post for update.  Recommend using clear CDs from now on.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2007, 07:02:57 AM by Spherenot »

hydrocontrol

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Re: FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power
« Reply #14 on: January 14, 2007, 01:41:54 AM »
I think a very repeatable method to do this winding would be to have a etch PC boad of the pattern like a double Archimedean spiral. A PC board would allow for multiple layers and a flat wire profile. A layer could be a clockwise pattern against a counterclockwise pattern. A PC board would also allow for various line thicknesses. Years ago I did a Archimedean spiral PC board using a program called Graph Paper Printer. I think the program is now free and unsupported (at least the web sire is dead) but it only allowed a single Archimedean spiral. Perhaps someone here could do a dual Archimedean spiral layout for a PC board so everyone could have a common starting point.

Tom G:)