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Author Topic: Tesla's Secret Black Box  (Read 1105 times)

Offline joellagace

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Tesla's Secret Black Box
« on: March 23, 2020, 08:28:25 AM »
Good day folks. I been working a while now on the side with some other projects. Let me take this moment to shed a light on some background on how I got here with it.

Tesla's Free Energy Electric Car Motor Driver Circuit. I tried to build it and a believe its just a very fancy very well tuned but crude L/C circuit setup and have been pondering for some time. Some background on how I got the idea. I was having a mediation one night and had an out-of-body experience. These are nothing special for me, Its how I ponder life. What was special was a vision I got. It was this device or something like it that came to me in a flash vision. I did not understand very much of what I "saw" but had great memory of it. So I started to experiment with the transformer arrangements.

I guess to the qualified tech this is not new, But for the hobby guy like me to find out that DC reacts certain ways with transformers in similar fashion as of AC really fascinated me. I started to experiment with various 60 hertz wall type transformers and to my surprise feeding DC on the primary side had a some effect for some time on the secondary, But DC how so??? Well I found out that current and voltage don't always flow in perfect Sync. Not even always in phase. And even if your dealing with DC, if you got a current flow and pass that in an inducer, You will get a magnetic reaction, This was so cool to me. I guess I'm a geek.


So I did a shit load of searching on the subject and found out about magnetic amplification and a few other interesting phenomena with transformers speaking in just "Current" terms and not voltage or voltage type AC or DC.
So I started to mess around with some various concepts to try and understand again this vision. And I really got a kick out of being able to light up an LED from the Secondary side of a transformer feeding a steady DC on the primary side! Problem is after a moment the LED goes out, But why I asked??, I played around until I found out that induction effect was purely on the magnetic end via the flow of current passing trough the primary circuit, Since its a closed loop, after a few moments the primary circuit "charges" up there is no more motion flow on the DC current.
So I experimented some more and fixed the LED blink issue by putting a huge capacitor in series with the plus voltage input so that the slow charge of that capacitor displaces current for a few moments and its during that current motion that the secondary side of the transformer gets exited by the magnetic properties and sure enough my LED would stay lit up for moments even seconds as long as it took for the capacitor to reach its charge on the primary side. No oscillators at this point just pure DC! How Cool is that.
So with that done and out of the way, I better understood the vision I had and started to experiment in that direction and to tried to build various devices I seen.
The weeks have pasted and I did great progress with the circuits and prototypes, However not really having a lab and messy like I can get in the middle of a build the results where good but mixed. I had a hard time believing what I was seeing at times, Thinking that perhaps I did something wrong, Or something is messing up my readings,
But nevertheless I kept on working until I found a rather simple setup that seemed to work and match what I saw.But it seemed too simple lol.
I don't know the ohms law inside out, Nor have a PHD in it, When I need to figure out something, I barely know how to use the online calculators but I get by!
So I then decided to run some of these circuits in CAD and run the simulations, And to my surprise, The simulations demonstrate the concepts more or less, I observed with those circuit arrangements! And it made me feel better as it must mean I ain't breaking any of this Ohms law crap hehe!
So here is how the circuit works to the best of my understandings, Its still a little shady to me, but I think I get the general Idea what is going on. My apologies if I get a term wrong or Something. So here goes.

Parts

1k
1k
Switch (4)
60 Hertz transformer
100 UF Capacitor
100 UF Capacitor
NPN transistor generic
12 volt DC sources

This circuit is actually a dual tuned L/C circuit. A short DC burst causes the primary L/C circuit to ring very much like striking a bell real hard once. Then shortly after. that ring is felt in the secondary L/C circuit, It reacts and starts to oscillate as well interestingly it seems at opposite phase and voltages as the primary side, Probably because each L/C circuit has a crude phase loop lock mechanism at play.independent. Interestingly the feedback in this circuit does not cause one cycle to cancel out the other. Most feedback. is used, This makes a very efficient type of oscillator circuit.
Transistor NPN in part was added to keep these oscillations active and also to help start up the circuit. Once it runs and the oscillations and voltages build up after a few moments, the system is well calibrated. The transistor can be killed. turned off.  Its in phasse loop.

This device needs some calibration and perhaps even tuning and mangling to get operational, Its not a 100% turn key, But if you know enough about L/C circuits you should be Fine and understand what I'm saying.

So turning it on.
Step one make sure both switch on primary side and the transistor switch is on, This is required for start up and starts the transistor as a fast speed switch, The whole thing works at around 220 Hz.
Turn the unit on. Wait a little.
After about 5 seconds good enough voltage storage has been set in the primary circuit, You can use a scope to watch this. Turn the primary circuit switch off and this will kill the DC direct charge to the primary circuit, And will automaticaly turn on switching transistor at the same time, Where the only path left to battery ground is the "ON" as it switches, After a few moments you will notice how all of a sudden the circuit stables and oscillates nice stable. Phase loop locked via the crude L/C circuit, Nice AC 220 Hz sine waves on each side of the transformer.
At this point the circuit behaves like an oscillator with the transistor switching and in phase with the L/C circuit. I'm not sure what the technical name of this oscillator Would be. I don't think its a hartley oscillator.
Now next step is to change to operating mode of this circuit, so we no longer take any voltage from our 12 volt battery source. Now once the circuit is tuned and operating Stable at 220 Hz, Simply kill the transistor base switch, This stops the transistor, killing the switch, leaving no more direct path for the DC voltage battery ground.
The dual L/C circuits naturally keep oscillating, because of this unique configuration, This circuit depends highly on resonance, magnetic amplification and high feedback.
Battery acts like negative resistance, injecting current into the circuit without loss of positive voltage. (0 DC voltage flow back to ground from battery) And actually Reading of 0 when the switch and transistor is off.
Source battery more or less does not drain anymore then it would as if being "disconnected"  some minuscule current(10pa) is lost, but is needed and keeps the system going.

While operating in this mode:
-900 ma at around 8 volts on secondary side.
Without voltage drain on source battery.

On primary side, (If that's what we can even still call it at this point) In this operational mode, reads 1.5 amps or about 8 watts, Continuous as long as the circuit keeps oscillating, This current reach (generated) reads in primary C.
 The Battery. Even if not directly coupled. Does not really drain. But Still plays a part as once I kill the plus side switch, the whole thing quickly dies. That 10pa battery current  is making it someway. My guess via the coils and transistor configuration even if its DC . And the batteries strange configuration (positive on the primary L/C only and negative on secondary) mostly acts like a resistor (perhaps negative)  even if not "directly" connected, and not so much behaving as a typical  "battery"  with primary L/C circuit. But never the less is required for this to work at all times. Maybe there is some sort of "Scalar" effect as well helping with the various energy couplings in this circuit.

While operating in this mode. A battery drain of 10pa for over 8 watts in return is a very good deal.

All I need to do now is build an electric motor that runs off of this, and we are good to ride. (Hopefully!)

Remember, Tesla used UHF bands at around 400 mhz, I just used and experimented with various 60 Hz power supplies. Because that is all I had around to experiment with, If you try this on UHF, Like Tesla with the addition of little 6 inch antennas, You can probably take even more advantage of all this feedback.(Radiant Energy) And this would Probably work much better. His device was a basic supper duper, efficient tuned high frequency switching power supply. That acted more like tuning a tube regen receiver to get it going and calibrated. Not bad for his time! Tubes also work better with radiant energy if you got some real special ones to experiment with!


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Tesla's Secret Black Box
« on: March 23, 2020, 08:28:25 AM »

 

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