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Author Topic: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video  (Read 97586 times)

Offline gotoluc

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #360 on: March 19, 2018, 05:10:30 AM »
Hmmm... I see DigiKey has the L298N for $43.65 for 10 units.... free energy certainly isn't cheap is it!    :'(

And this application will certainly need a printed circuit board to mount and route 30 of these devices... which by the way only handle about 2 amps per channel and will probably require heatsinks.

Has the PCB been designed yet?


(OH... now I see the module board photo. Well at least that solves some of the problems...)

I found some on ebay  https://www.ebay.com/itm/222461752336  from Georgia, USA  5 for $9.95 with delivery. Can't beat that!
Already mounted on PC board with connection terminals and heat sink included. See below picture.

Luc

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy


Offline pmgr

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #361 on: March 19, 2018, 05:14:07 AM »
Here is my latest take on Pierre's coil configuration and how coils are connected to each other, please see the attached PDF. It also takes into account the two different current directions that Pierre explains in his latest video. All coils are looped back onto eachother as well.

I believe this is the correct configuration in terms of coil winding and positioning (same as Luc did in his videos), but please check how each coil connects back to the next one. Eventually going around (I didn't draw all of the connections), the last coil_36 connects back to coil_1.

Of course any and all feedback is appreciated!

Enjoy, PmgR
====
Help end the persecution of Falun Gong * www.faluninfo.net * www.stoporganharvesting.org

Offline DreamThinkBuild

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #362 on: March 19, 2018, 05:42:19 AM »
@Luc

Nice work on the motor winding videos. Thank you for the translations.

Here is a quick tutorial on that L298n board.
https://tronixlabs.com.au/news/tutorial-l298n-dual-motor-controller-module-2a-and-arduino

@Pierre, thanks for sharing.

Some suggestions:

- Remove the resistor the biggest loss in system, pre-charge the capacitors externally to about 20volts then place/switch into system. The only place you need the resistor is in the pre-charge stage so you can mitigate in-rush current.

- Not sure what your capacitors board max current rating is, but increase wire diameter to caps. I'm using 4/0 AWG for a initially pre-charged 96v@78F ultracap bank which is in parallel with a solar battery bank this is for 6kw, no issues with heating and no resistors required.

- In the graph you drew in Part 5 of your video where you draw the noisy peak power. Could you create a new branch of the code so it only sweeps/switches the peak power area instead of the entire set? This would be very telling and important if the effect remains because of the moving magnetic field or something else. This would only require a change to the code nothing else.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #362 on: March 19, 2018, 05:42:19 AM »
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Offline gotoluc

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #363 on: March 19, 2018, 05:50:58 AM »
Awesome job PmgR

I looked over your pdf  (attached below) of all coil positions and connections and all looks perfect.
The pdf looks so professional man! ... thanks for the great job and sharing it.

Luc

français

Super travail PmgR
J'ai regardé votre pdf (ci-joint) de toutes les positions de la bobine et les connexions et tout semble parfait.
Le document pdf a l'air si professionnel! ... merci pour l'excellent travail et le partage

Offline Jeg

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #364 on: March 19, 2018, 07:43:14 AM »
Hi Luc
Well done mate, very professional and stress free videos from your part. Thumps up!
I wonder where did you find these nice looking plastic slot-covers for your coils. I am afraid that i have to make them by my self as i don't find any ready solution in my local market.

Hi Pierre.
It is difficult for someone to suggest a topology for the receiver coil when the process is not yet fully transparent. So only assumptions can be made as for an answer to your question. I see that your stator has enough depth to fit more coil-receivers independently working or connected in parallel for greater current. Perhaps a star like core would also work fine.

Regards   

Regards

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #364 on: March 19, 2018, 07:43:14 AM »
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Offline Jeg

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #365 on: March 19, 2018, 07:46:49 AM »
Pmgr
Thanks a lot for this great simulations. Is it out of a commercial software?

Offline konehead

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #366 on: March 19, 2018, 08:41:21 AM »
Hi Luc
For Pierre, my two cents worth of advice:
I would say the circular inner core will pull out lots more power, however there may be unforeseen complications, and it could cause overloading to primary inducing into it, and there is  "backup" and suddenly the system draws 10 times more power in the input but I don't know...just leave everything the same, then try the new rotor....
Someone said that the core should be "AC friendly" so this means laminate steel, and the stell plates insulated too from one another too with varnish or whatever...
So be careful! Do not ruin or destroy what you have!!  - proceed one step at a time so you can always step back and correct.  You know all this I am sure
Keep going and don't stop eh!


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #366 on: March 19, 2018, 08:41:21 AM »
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Offline pmgr

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #367 on: March 19, 2018, 08:42:19 AM »
Pmgr
Thanks a lot for this great simulations. Is it out of a commercial software?
I use FEMM. It's open source.


PmgR

Offline iflewmyown

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #368 on: March 19, 2018, 09:26:38 AM »
PmgR, Very nice work also. Thanks
Garry

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #368 on: March 19, 2018, 09:26:38 AM »
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Offline Belfior

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #370 on: March 19, 2018, 01:43:49 PM »
I think coil winding is the reason why OU is still hiding...

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #370 on: March 19, 2018, 01:43:49 PM »
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Offline gotoluc

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #371 on: March 19, 2018, 02:32:13 PM »
Hi Luc
Well done mate, very professional and stress free videos from your part. Thumps up!
I wonder where did you find these nice looking plastic slot-covers for your coils. I am afraid that i have to make them by my self as i don't find any ready solution in my local market.

Regards

Thanks mate!
I was able to salvaged all those plastic slot protectors from the original windings.

Regards

Luc

Even if nothing becomes of it Luc,that winding job is something to be proud of.

Well done

Brad

Thanks mate ;)

Luc

Offline gotoluc

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #372 on: March 19, 2018, 02:47:24 PM »

Conseils de DreamThinkBuild pour Pierre en français
Quelques suggestions:
- Retirez (éliminer) la résistance car c'est la plus grande perte de votre système, pré-charger les super cap à l'extérieur à environ 20 volts puis placer / basculer dans le système. Le seul endroit où vous avez besoin de la résistance est dans la phase de pré-charge afin que vous puissiez atténuer le courant d'appel.
- Vous ne savez pas quelle est la valeur nominale maximale de vos super cap, mais augmentez le diamètre du fil aux super cap.
Moi j'utilise du 4 AWG pour une banque de 96 ultracap 78F initialement préchargée qui est en parallèle avec une banque de batteries solaires ceci pour 6kw avec aucun problème de chauffage et aucune résistance requise.
- Dans le graphique, vous avez dessiné dans la partie 5 de votre vidéo où vous dessinez la puissance crête bruyante. Pourriez-vous créer une nouvelle branche du code afin qu'elle ne balaye / permute que la zone de puissance de crête au lieu de la totalité de l'ensemble? Ce serait très révélateur et important si l'effet reste à cause du champ magnétique en mouvement ou autre chose. Cela nécessiterait seulement une modification du code et rien d'autre.


Conseils de Jeg pour Pierre en français

Salut Pierre.
Il est difficile pour quelqu'un de proposer une topologie pour ta bobine réceptrice lorsque le processus n'est pas encore totalement transparent. Donc, seulement des hypothèses peuvent être faites pour une réponse à votre question. Je vois que votre stator a assez de profondeur pour s'adapter à plus de récepteurs de bobine fonctionnant indépendamment ou connectés en parallèle pour un courant plus élevé. Peut-être qu'un noyau en étoile comme dessin ci-dessous fonctionnerait bien?


Conseils de konehead pour Pierre en français
Mes conseils pour Pierre:
On dirais que le noyau interne circulaire tirera beaucoup plus de puissance, mais il peut y avoir des complications imprévues, et il pourrait causer une surcharge à l'induction primaire, et il y a "sauvegarde" et soudainement le système tire 10 fois plus de puissance dans l'entrée mais je ne sais pas ... laisse tout pareil et essaie le nouveau rotor ....
Quelqu'un a dit que le noyau devrait être "pour AC" donc cela signifie acier laminé, et les plaques d'acier isolées les une dans les autres avec du vernis ou autre chose ...
Donc sois prudent! Ne pas ruiner ou détruire ce que vous avez !! - procéder étape par étape afin que vous puissiez toujours revenir en arrière et corriger. Vous savez tout cela, j'en suis sûr
Continuez et ne vous arrêtez pas!

Offline cheors

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #373 on: March 19, 2018, 03:36:52 PM »
Thank you Luc for these texts also in French.
It helps francophones like me a lot.

Merci Luc pour ces textes  aussi en français.
Cela aide beaucoup les francophones comme moi

Offline MichelM

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Re: 170 watts in - 1600 watts out - looped - Very impressive build and video
« Reply #374 on: March 19, 2018, 04:22:16 PM »
Je voudrais partager avec vous une réflexion sur l'alimentation des bobines.
Je me trompe peut-être, surtout si ma compréhension du cycle n'est pas correcte. Vous pouvez me donner votre avis.
En examinant attentivement la vidéo de Pierre avec le schéma des 36 bobines,
j'en ai déduit que le nombre de relais peut être réduit à 24 au total au lieu de 72, et le nombre des transistors pour la commande des relais peut être ramené à 12 au lieu de 36,

Pour les relais, il faut :
(12 relais pour l'alimentation des bobines en courant positif (+),
et 12 relais pour l'alimentation des bobines en courant négatif (-),
Chaque relais doit alimenter 3 connexions, dont le détail est indiqué ci-dessous.
Le relais n° 1 (+ positif) est fermé en même temps que le relais n° 1 (- négatif),
puis Le relais n° 2 (+) est fermé en même temps que le relais n° 2 (-),
puis Le relais n° 3 (+), etc.
L'ouverture des relais pour la coupure du courant doit respecter ce qu'à indiqué Pierre.

Dans les tableaux ci-dessous, entre les parenthèses (), il faut lire "fil reliant les deux bobines dont les numéros sont indiqués).
Les séquences de fermeture des relais pour un stator à 36 fentes et 36 bobines seraient, dans ce cas :

Pour la polarité positive (+) :

{
[(36- 1),(12-13),(24-25)],   // relais 1 (+) alimente les fils reliant les bobines 36 à 1, 12 à 13 et 24 à 25
[( 1- 2),(13-14),(25-26)],   // relais 2 (+) alimente les fils reliant les bobines 1 à 2, 13 à 14 et 25 à 26
[( 2- 3),(14-15),(26-27)],   // relais 3 (+) alimente les fils reliant les bobines 2 à 3, 14 à 15 et 26 à 27
[( 3- 4),(15-16),(27-28)],   // relais 4 (+) alimente les fils reliant les bobines 3 à 4, 15 à 16 et 27 à 28
[( 4- 5),(16-17),(28-29)],   // relais 5 (+), etc...
[( 5- 6),(17-18),(29-30)],   // relais 6 (+)
[( 6- 7),(18-19),(30-31)],   // relais 7 (+)
[( 7-08),(19-20),(31-32)],   // relais 8 (+)
[( 8- 9),(20-21),(32-33)],   // relais 9 (+)
[( 9-10),(21-22),(33-34)],   // relais 10 (+)
[(10-11),(22-23),(34-35)],   // relais 11 (+)
[(11-12),(23-24),(35-36)]   // relais 12 (+)
}


Pour la polarité négative (-) :

{
[( 6- 7),(18-19),(30-31)],   // relais 1 (-) alimente les fils reliant les bobines 6 à 7, 18 à 19 et 30 à 31
[( 7- 08),(19-20),(31-32)],   // relais 2 (-) alimente les fils reliant les bobines 7 à 8, 19 à 20 et 31 à 32
[( 8- 9),(20-21),(32-33)],   // relais 3 (-) alimente les fils reliant les bobines 8 à 9, 20 à 21 et 32 à 33
[( 9-10),(21-22),(33-34)],   // relais 4 (-) alimente les fils reliant les bobines 9 à 10, 21 à 22 et 33 à 34
[(10-11),(22-23),(34-35)],   // relais 5 (-), etc...
[(11-12),(23-24),(35-36)],   // relais 6 (-)
[(12-13),(24-25),(36- 1)],   // relais 7 (-)
[(13-14),(25-26),( 1- 2)],   // relais 8 (-)
[(14-15),(26-27),( 2- 3)],   // relais 9 (-)
[(15-16),(27-28),( 3- 4)],   // relais 10 (-)
[(16-17),(28-29),( 4- 5)],   // relais 11 (-)
[(17-18),(29-30),( 5- 6)]   // relais 12 (-)
}

Pour les transistors :
Chaque transistor doit actionner 2 relais :
n° 1 (+) et n° 1 (-), puis n° 2 (+) et n° 2 (-), etc...

Il faut évidemment bien calibrer les transistors ainsi que les relais qui auront à faire circuler une intensité de courant plus importante.


Eng. I would like to share with you my thoughts and alternate suggestions of powering the stator coils.
I may be wrong, especially if my understanding of the cycle is not correct. You can give me your opinion on that.
By carefully examining Pierre's video with the schematic of the 36 coils,
I deduced that the number of relays can be reduced to 24 in total instead of 72, and the number of transistors for relay control can be reduced to 12 instead of 36,

The necessary relays are:
(12 relays for the coils positive current (+),
and 12 relays for the negative current (-),
Each relay must feed 3 connections, details are below.
Relay # 1 (+ positive) is closed at the same time as Relay # 1 (- negative),
then relay no. 2 (+) is closed together with relay no. 2 (-),
then Relay # 3 (+), etc.
The opening of the relays (cut power) must be as Pierre indicated.

In the tables below, between the parentheses (), you must read "wire connecting the two coils whose numbers are indicated).
The closing sequences of the relays for a stator with 36 slots and 36 coils would be, in this case:

For the positive polarity (+):

{
[(36- 1), (12-13), (24-25)], relay 1 (-) supplies the wires connecting the coils 36 to 1, 12 to 13 and 24 to 25
[(1- 2), (13-14), (25-26)], relay 2 (-) supplies the wires connecting the coils 1 to 2, 13 to 14 and 25 to 26
[(2- 3), (14-15), (26-27)], relay 3 (-) supplies the wires connecting the coils 2 to 3, 14 to 15 and 26 to 27
[(3-4), (15-16), (27-28)], relay 4 (-) supplies the wires connecting the coils 3 to 4, 15 to 16 and 27 to 28
[(4-5), (16-17), (28-29)], // relay 5 (-), etc ...
[(5-6), (17-18), (29-30)], relay 6 (-)
[(6-7), (18-19), (30-31)], relay 7 (-)
[(7-08), (19-20), (31-32)], relay 8 (-)
[(8-9), (20-21), (32-33)], relay 9 (-)
[(9-10), (21-22), (33-34)], relay 10 (-)
[(10-11), (22-23), (34-35)], relay 11 (-)
[(11-12), (23-24), (35-36)] // relay 12 (-)
}


For the negative (-) polarity:

{
[(6-7), (18-19), (30-31)], relay 1 (-) feeds the wires connecting the coils 6 to 7, 18 to 19 and 30 to 31
[(7- 08), (19-20), (31-32)], relay 2 (-) supplies the wires connecting the coils 7 to 8, 19 to 20 and 31 to 32
[(8- 9), (20-21), (32-33)], relay 3 (-) feeds the wires connecting the coils 8 to 9, 20 to 21 and 32 to 33
[(9-10), (21-22), (33-34)], relay 4 (-) supplies the wires connecting the coils 9 to 10, 21 to 22 and 33 to 34
[(10-11), (22-23), (34-35)], relay 5 (-), etc ...
[(11-12), (23-24), (35-36)], relay 6 (-)
[(12-13), (24-25), (36-1)], relay 7 (-)
[(13-14), (25-26), (1- 2)], relay 8 (-)
[(14-15), (26-27), (2- 3)], relay 9 (-)
[(15-16), (27-28), (3-4)], relay 10 (-)
[(16-17), (28-29), (4-5)], relay 11 (-)
[(17-18), (29-30), (5-6)] // relay 12 (-)
}

For transistors:
Each transistor must operate 2 relays:
n ° 1 (+) and n ° 1 (-), then n ° 2 (+) and n ° 2 (-), etc ...

It is obviously necessary to calibrate the transistors as well as the relays to circulate a higher current intensity.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2018, 03:52:07 AM by gotoluc »

 

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