Author Topic: Dr Ronald Stiffler SEC technology (Read 280773 times)

itsu · « **Reply #915 on:** September 26, 2018, 05:22:02 PM »

Nick,

all good points, thats why i stopped working on these circuits, its not really of practical use and i do not see that
it will lead us anywhere for the time being.

Itsu

NickZ · « **Reply #916 on:** September 26, 2018, 05:28:39 PM »

Itsu: Aren't the two cap on the loop supposed to be 10nf, instead of 100nf? Would that make any difference?
I already have a 0.1uf cap before the L3. And two 0.01uf caps on each loop.
Looks like the loop leds are not as bright as your single led placed in the middle.

itsu · « **Reply #917 on:** September 26, 2018, 07:27:21 PM »

Nick,

the reactance of 100nF at 13Mhz is 0.12 Ohm, the reactance of 10nF at 13Mhz is 1.2K, so therefor i went for 100nF.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/capacitor-impedance-calculator/

Indeed, the single led is way more bright, but its a sensitive led.

Itsu

gyulasun · « **Reply #918 on:** September 27, 2018, 12:32:02 AM »

The reactance of a 10 nF capacitor at 13 MHz is 1.2 Ohm. You could measure only a small, negligible difference in performance versus a 100 nF capacitor in such, relatively low power setup when a 10 nF is in series with L3.
When two 10 nF caps are included in the loop, they may have some current limiting effect , consider 2 x 1.2 Ohm (at 13 MHz) instead of 2 x 0.12 Ohm. If loop current is say 10 mA, calculate the voltage drops across them using Ohm's law and learn the difference.

itsu · « **Reply #919 on:** September 27, 2018, 04:26:45 PM »

I did it again, silly me.

Gyula is right off course, 10 nF capacitor at 13 MHz is 1.2 Ohm.

Thanks, Itsu

NickZ · « **Reply #920 on:** September 27, 2018, 04:55:28 PM »

I obtained the best light output so far last night, by using only one loop and led bulb, with just the 100nf before the L3, and NO cap after the L3. But, for some still unknown reason, the second loop and led won't light at the same time as the first loop.

So, as far as I can see, neither the 10nf or the 100nf are actually needed. As each additional component is only lowering the very limited output at the bulb.
For me, the important thing is the amount of light that can be provided, not the low mAs it consumes. However, I still can't get both loops to work together, on both polarities. So, I'm still working on this.
Has anyone else (besides Itsu) gotten both loops working together, and outputting a reasonable lumins levels?

So far, this is my best light output, below, as of this morning. Which is now going past just the previous lower night light level.
Using two L3 coils and no 0.1 or 0.01uf cap on the lit bulb. The second bulb still won't light though. I need to figure out why that is.
Consider that the camera is still dimming the bulb intensity on the images below.
Update: Both loops working individually. Lighting fairly well. Second image below.
The light output is about the same on both bulbs, unlike how it shows up on the image. The closer bulb is being dimmed by the camera to a higher degree than the second bulb which is further away. The ugly solder blobs on the 4148 diodes are there on purpose. So, it's not just due to my lousy solder job.

NickZ · « **Reply #921 on:** September 28, 2018, 03:27:21 AM »

While aiming for better output and light levels, I almost threw my camera (cell phone) across the room, from the shock this little oscillator gave me tonight, while trying to take a picture to show how the LED bulbs look now. As you can see, one can hardly see the bulbs anymore. And the shocks are no joke.
Of course, I was barefooted.
So, guys. Don't give up on this project, just yet. There's still a lot more to learn here.

seychelles · « **Reply #922 on:** September 28, 2018, 07:23:21 AM »

hi nick z, can you provide us with your circuit diagram please.
i just bought the crystals and very likely i will have most of the other components
thanks.

Lidmotor · « **Reply #923 on:** September 28, 2018, 07:09:35 PM »

Nickz-----That light output looks great! I agree with Seychelles about providing us some details on how you got that. Thanks for persisting on this project. It is inspiring to me. Sometimes we quit too soon when the goal is just around the corner.

---Lidmotor

NickZ · « **Reply #924 on:** September 29, 2018, 06:07:17 PM »

Guys: I'm still using the same crystal oscillator driver that I have mentioned previously. However, I could not get the two diode loops to work at the same time. Seams like the two 0.01uf, or 0.1uf caps may be the cause. So, I connected two L3 coils to the same transistor (the D400 transistor) collector's output, and now have them both working together. There is a 0.1uf cap on each of the L3s input side. I also connected both loops to the battery negative rail. But, I'll have to show how I did that in a video.
I will try to see if I can use only one of the diode loops for the LED bulb, and the second loop output as a feed back circuit back to the input. I'm still not there yet, as I've been working on obtaining some use able light output, first. As up to now, the output provided by the crystal oscillator was not very use full. So, I will be trying that feed back path, next.
Below is the crystal oscillator circuit that I'm currently using, as well as the (non crystal) controllable oscillator circuit, which I've not built, yet.
For the moment I can report, that the "double diode loop", is where the magic lies...
Any questions, are welcome. NickZ

EDIT: I have seen that there are LED bulbs which work on the normal AC 120v grid source, as well as self running on a small battery inside the bulb, which allows for the SAME lumin levels, and are as bright as the grid source, and can last for 5 hours. They are like a dual purpose emergency back up leds, when the power goes out. I will try to buy one of those bulbs.

NickZ · « **Reply #925 on:** October 02, 2018, 09:07:49 PM »

Guys:
Here's a video that I just made.

Double diode loops, continued:
https://youtu.be/_WVQ0VeIMsg

I made another video also, but I'm not able to post a link to it here, as it keeps putting the same link as the video above.

NickZ · « **Reply #926 on:** October 03, 2018, 05:19:24 PM »

Here's a link to the second video that I made a couple of nights ago. Sorry, my camera doesn't do well in low lighting conditions.
Showing how the loops ground wires can also help in tuning the performance of the diode loop/led bulbs's output. https://youtu.be/imIJgRUHeP0

seychelles · « **Reply #927 on:** October 03, 2018, 07:14:40 PM »

THANKS FOR THE CIRCUIT DIAGRAM NICKZ.

mikrovolt · « **Reply #928 on:** October 09, 2018, 10:07:53 PM »

Dr Stiffler uses either a battery or transformer based power supply
having low noise, which in turn powers his SEC exciter that outputs wireless RF.
The led light being only one of the applications of new and useful.

Years ago, some were considering building a power supply 30 Vdc having less than (.01% ripple)
I found an instruction manual of a current limiting supply kit uses a standard 24V transformer.
https://img.staticbg.com//file/products/201505080459530-30Vinstall.pdf

Relating output of Brightness over the Internet has been a challenge. We often use objective comparison ?
This picture shows digital meter Volt and mA reading the output of a switching supply that is powering an led.
I think the led is a 1 watt which is 3.19 * 0.3368 = 1.074 watt measured at output of the meter.
The question still remains: Does the SEC do a better job of lighting and why and how it can be shown ?

I am not sure if there is an issue using the meter on the pie tin receiver. Possibly V meter is connected
to led and the tank rather than the led and the earth ground, then where would the mA connect ?
Maybe a capacitor before the led might be the right direction ? it seems endless. The supply output in Watts
along with an led optical detection scheme for a given distance between transmitter and receivers might be easiest.
https://youtu.be/aFvAhr2WRnw

NickZ · « **Reply #929 on:** October 11, 2018, 04:55:09 PM »

Mikrovolt: Of course it would help, to know the exact power being used, compared to the brightness being provided by it. But, I think that for now, we need to obtain some USE ABLE light output, first. Other wise, what's the point.
We already know that the crystal oscillators can run on less that 100mAs, possibly even less than 50mAs, while lighting a load of gutted AC led bulbs, from small batteries. However, the problem has been that little output, (lumin levels) has been noticed on most of these tests using the AC led bulbs.
We don't know if the Docs led bulbs are running at similar brightness as the grid powered led bulbs, or only at 1/4 the lumins, as I see with my set up. I had at one time placed a 1w led bulb flashlight bulb next to my set up, and it blows the diode loop, away. But, lately I have been obtaining higher lumins levels. Which are starting to look more use able, and are lighting my house to some degree, while basically being used as night lights, working all night long.
The main thing is obtaining a similar brightness, or close to it, as the grid powered led bulbs. As dim bulbs running of just a few mA, are of no practical use. And then work on making the circuit, self run itself. Otherwise, we are not saving much, if anything by using this system. Of course, the Dr. Stiffler double loop circuit can always be run off of a solar panel and a small battery. But then, that would not be exactly "free", as those additional things cost a bit to purchase, in order to have free energy. As compared to a self running crystal oscillator, lighting some leds, needing No batteries, and No solar panel.
Which is what I'm working on, now.

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Author Topic: Dr Ronald Stiffler SEC technology (Read 280773 times)

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