Itsu---That is an excellent replication and video showing what is happening in the 'Loop'.  Everyone working on this project should watch it.  You have all the proper equipment to test what we are looking at.  I really liked seeing the current in the Loop.  At 13mA it confirms what I saw yesterday that it isn't huge but it is there.  Many thanks for taking the time to do these experiments.  For those of us without proper measurement equipment you fill in many blanks with an honest evaluation of a true replication.

--Lidmotor

Thanks Lidmotor and Gyula,


the coil i was using was one of the 3 L3 coils i made last week for the 3 coil setup, so they should be exactly the same as the ones Dr. Stiffler is using (same inductance).

They resonate around 13.6Mhz using the earlier circuits loaded with a led strip.

Now with the long antenna-like top load it dropped to about 6.5MHz (using a shorter cliplead its about 9MHz)

I have enough BAT42, 46 or 48 diodes i could use, but the forward voltage drop is around 400mV for them in the 10-20mA range, so i don't think it will improve much (3V total).


Anyway, looking at Dr Stifflers latest video (thanks Nick) of today he was not using any antenna, just the L3 coil laying next to the diode ring.

I did not expect it would work in my situation, but it did!
Raising the frequency to 20Mhz there was the new resonance point (my FG drops its amplitude to 10Vpp above 20Mhz, so i stayed at 20MHz).

Current in the ring dropped to about 2.5mA rms, voltage across the cap still 31V.

Video here:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmikYG3j0FA


By the way, i also used the shorted turn with 1 diode around the diode loop, and indeed the leds go out, but after some retuning (to 18.4Mhz) the leds
came on again, no matter what direction i put the loop.
So this shorted turn with 1 diode does not kill the resonance, it just loads the L3 coil more i guess.

Itsu

Hi Itsu,

Okay, and thanks for the comments. Regarding the diodes you have, you do not need to rebuild the diode loop with the Schottky types,  you could fasten them in parallel with each 1N4148 by using say plastic paper clips. If there is no plastic clip then a small sized steel paper clip may also be used to fasten the diode legs together. The BAT42 type has a forward voltage range between 260 mV and 330 mV at 2 mA current as per its data sheet and your loop current is around 2.5 mA now.  This is just a suggestion for a later time, to see the effects of lower losses in the loop diodes on the LED current hence brightness.

In the meantime the Doc has produced yet another video... :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvuYtpMBywE

PS: TinselKoala posted an interesting and good suggestion on the switching time of the diodes while I was typing this post, so consider that too of course.  The Doc mentioned time delay caused by the diodes in the loop.

Gyula

All-- I am starting to think that the cat is out of the bag now about how this 'Loop' works.  It is the time delay caused by the diodes turning on in sequence around the ring just as Doc stated.  I did a quick video of the Loop driving one of my electronic pulse motors.  Notice that I just have an alligator clip on the end of the L3 coil as sort of a top load.  The Loop driver is my crystal oscillator circuit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R16EDjoNec

--Lidmotor

Gyula---You are right that the extra two diodes are not needed on this setup. Just a straight 2 wire connection to the LED panel is all that is needed.  I was trying out using an AV plug arrangement earlier tapping into either side of the LED array with the joined end of the AV plug. Both sided worked and the light stayed on. When I got ready to do this video I simply put the diodes to both side.  It really wasn't an AV plug anymore and I should have done it differently.  Good catch.  The LED panel does light up when the motor is disconnected.   

---Lidmotor

All - back to posting. We've had some interesting times here the past few days. Including, I passed my Citizenship test in Oklahoma City 
Just got the hand raised stuff to do now and i'll be American.

My diode ring is far smaller than the others shown, but they are salvaged 1N4148's from junker boards. It now makes sense to increase the frequency because of that diameter difference. Another dozen or so will be desoldered, short pieces of wire will then be soldered to each to make a bigger ring....just to see what happens, but i'll also be on the same page.


antimony - that's exactly my thinking. There are 4x 6ft pipes in a square arrangement under the backyard still, from that crystal radio initiative.
What i'm wondering is, if we are already into the MHz, can we get circuits to run at uA and get crystal radio type circuits to perpetually run ?
Tune to a local FM station and there we go, path lights or other uses.
Using the Doc's cap method and a zener perhaps, a circuit may flash a light for better output.
Not OU, but certainly using free wireless energy at great distances. It's in the air anyway, all the time.   

All - back to posting. We've had some interesting times here the past few days. Including, I passed my Citizenship test in Oklahoma City 
Just got the hand raised stuff to do now and i'll be American.

Well, congratulations I know it's not all as perfect as all our past presidents usually touted, but its a pretty good place, despite all its flaws, especially societal attitudes lately, but like everywhere else in the world, the media does exaggerate and twist things to seem more interesting and disguise bias, but I do so love it here, I truly do so miss my Sicily, but would not give this place up for nothing

May You and Your Familia Live Long and Happy Friend !!!

Thanks Mr. Hewitt


erfandl - I wonder how these are in sync with each other. Are they in sync, or overlaying at the same frequency ?
I probably missed it, but is the input wattage comparable/better than stock connections  ?
It's a very neat idea !