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Author Topic: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS  (Read 74524 times)

magnetman12003

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #135 on: April 24, 2017, 06:59:52 PM »
Hi magnetman,

Thanks for all the measurements.
I requote your earlier measurement results too:
"AC measurement  59.95 HZ  across C1-- .005 volts AC     
AC measurement 59.97 HZ across IN/OUT  -- .005 volts AC" 

I think these measurement results strongly indicate the thyristor is not operating in the setup.
Very probably the low DC level you measured across C1 (around 3.3V) cannot trigger the neon
bulb any more hence the thyristor cannot fire either.  This is my deduction, based on your meter results.

The question arises whether why there is so low DC voltage, 3.3V across capacitor C1?
(You reported 3.3 V in recent reply #105 or even in reply #123 above.)  Is it possible the oscillator cannot charge it up higher?

You may wish to check the AC voltage and the frequency across the collector of
transistor TIP35C and the Common negative rail with your true RMS meter, that would be informative.

(The collector pin of the TIP35C is the middle one out of its three legs and as you surely
know the collector pin is also tied to the heat sink part of the transistor case.)

If you find no AC voltage (or any frequency other than 59.9-60Hz), then check the same
at the transistor base with respect also to the Common negative rail.

Thanks,  Gyula

PS If you find no AC voltage and frequency at the pins of the TIP35C, it may mean that it cannot
oscillate from the 5 V DC input the USB wall adapter provides. 
This may happen, I found for such oscillators the start up may be critical or none at a lower input voltage
than earlier it was from the 12V input.
Maybe this can be solved by readjusting the potmeters for the 5V input while monitoring say the DC level
across C1, it should jump up up from its 3.3 V DC level when the oscillator just begins to oscillate.
Then you can check again the AC voltages and the frequency at the points I mentioned yesterday and today.
Hopefully you can easily access the pins of the TIP35C with your meter probe tip, be careful.

I still am able to spin a very small small diametric ring magnet over the coil with all 9 bulbs lit bright.  That proves the circuit is oscillating.   Notice I said very small magnet.  With NO bulbs in the circuit I can spin a huge 2 inch diametric ring magnet easily.

gyulasun

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #136 on: April 24, 2017, 08:31:12 PM »
I still am able to spin a very small small diametric ring magnet over the coil with all 9 bulbs lit bright.  That proves the circuit is oscillating.   Notice I said very small magnet.  With NO bulbs in the circuit I can spin a huge 2 inch diametric ring magnet easily.

Okay, that is fine, the oscillator oscillates.  However, its 'strength' may not be enough to pump up the voltage level across C1 once the DC voltage in it is 3.3 V only.  I would suggest to notice the present settings of the potmeters and then try adjusting it while monitoring the DC level across C1. 

It is very unlikely that the neon bulb is able to trigger the SCR from 3.3 V only.  Can you agree with this?

I would suggest to check the DC and AC voltage level between the negative leg of C1 and the Common negative rail.

As an alternative test, if I may, maybe you can run your setup from the variable power supply you have and adjusting its output voltage from 5 V first to replace the 5V USB adapter and then slowly increasing the supply voltage up towards the 10 -12 V while monitoring the 3.3 V across C1.  I suggest to unplug and then replug one of the output cable of the power supply to give a 'nudge' to the oscillator whenever an increased output voltage is set.

Gyula

magnetman12003

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #137 on: April 24, 2017, 09:53:20 PM »
Okay, that is fine, the oscillator oscillates.  However, its 'strength' may not be enough to pump up the voltage level across C1 once the DC voltage in it is 3.3 V only.  I would suggest to notice the present settings of the potmeters and then try adjusting it while monitoring the DC level across C1. 

It is very unlikely that the neon bulb is able to trigger the SCR from 3.3 V only.  Can you agree with this?

I would suggest to check the DC and AC voltage level between the negative leg of C1 and the Common negative rail.

As an alternative test, if I may, maybe you can run your setup from the variable power supply you have and adjusting its output voltage from 5 V first to replace the 5V USB adapter and then slowly increasing the supply voltage up towards the 10 -12 V while monitoring the 3.3 V across C1.  I suggest to unplug and then replug one of the output cable of the power supply to give a 'nudge' to the oscillator whenever an increased output voltage is set.

Gyula
""""
When I got the setup working the very first time ""without problems"" I noticed the potentiometers were set as per what is shown on my diagram.  The R2 pot is adjusted  full counterclockwise and the R3 pot is full clockwise. With any other settings  problems came up.  The bottom line is if someone can connect 9 --  7 watt led bulbs in parallel and power them STRAIGHT from a 5 volt USB device I can compare my results with theirs and my test includes the power going through my setup from my 5 volt USB adapter.  This will show what the setup is capable of doing.

gyulasun

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #138 on: April 24, 2017, 10:32:18 PM »
""""
When I got the setup working the very first time ""without problems"" I noticed the potentiometers were set as per what is shown on my diagram.  The R2 pot is adjusted  full counterclockwise and the R3 pot is full clockwise. With any other settings  problems came up.  The bottom line is if someone can connect 9 --  7 watt led bulbs in parallel and power them STRAIGHT from a 5 volt USB device I can compare my results with theirs and my test includes the power going through my setup from my 5 volt USB adapter.  This will show what the setup is capable of doing.

Well, I understand this comparison but it will be subjective when judging and comparing the brightness.

The measured power fed into the LEDs in one setup could be more readily compared to that of another setup, together with a measured input power to the setup, this would be more scientific and much less subjective. 
The small uncertainty remaining in this latter comparison is that we need to assume that the group of LEDs driven by one setup gives very close brightness to that of the other group of LEDs driven by the other setup.  I mean if you run two groups of LEDs from the same power source there can still be small differences in brightness, even if all the LEDs in the two groups have the same make and type.  I do not mean nitpicking here, just express my opinion on power level comparisons rather than brightness comparisons by eye ball judgements.

Thanks,
Gyula

magnetman12003

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #139 on: April 25, 2017, 03:11:08 AM »
This is to whomever is constructing this circuit.  You are going to have to buy at least 10 LED -seven watt 12 volt bulbs for starters and one each LUMSING  5 volt USB power wall adapter.  They are illustrated below.  After buying both connect 9 of your led bulbs in parallel and then power the bulbs from your USB adapter DIRECTLY.  Take note of the output voltage and current between the USB and the bulbs.  Also the frequency if you are equipped to do that. Check bulb brightness visually!!!

This is where I come in with my setup:  I will do the same thing but in my case I will put my powered setup between the USB adapter and the bulbs. I will measure once more the voltage/current coming off the USB and then the same across the C1 capacitor in my setup.  I show a frequency of 60 HZ  (All 9 of my bulbs burn very bright.)

We will compare both readings and this should give us a very good idea as to just what the circuit is capable of doing or not doing.   Then you can make up your mind if you wish to proceed or invest further.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4-10X-E27-E26-High-Power-LED-Lamp-Bulb-7W-White-Light-Energy-Saving-12V-Lights-/272226354567

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132X03ZS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO11A4jPkG4

SkyWatcher123

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #140 on: April 25, 2017, 08:26:04 AM »
Hi all, Hi magnetman, thanks for sharing, that is what matters, that we all share to help benefit one another.
I'm glad i bought these 12 volt led bulbs.
Because with the inner circuitry removed, 4 of them in parallel, are now as bright as the old model 6 watt eco smart bulbs i was using.
Though instead of using 4 watts, these are using 2.5 watts with the usb power supply.
The circuit is a little different than i previously posted, just one diode off collector, then into led bulbs with capacitor in parallel with led bulbs, so more like a typical joule thief arrangement.
It's the low voltage led boards, that is really helping the efficiency here.
Also changed the transistor to a TIP3055 NPN.
peace love light

magnetman12003

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #141 on: April 25, 2017, 07:46:00 PM »
Hi all, Hi magnetman, thanks for sharing, that is what matters, that we all share to help benefit one another.
I'm glad i bought these 12 volt led bulbs.
Because with the inner circuitry removed, 4 of them in parallel, are now as bright as the old model 6 watt eco smart bulbs i was using.
Though instead of using 4 watts, these are using 2.5 watts with the usb power supply.
The circuit is a little different than i previously posted, just one diode off collector, then into led bulbs with capacitor in parallel with led bulbs, so more like a typical joule thief arrangement.
It's the low voltage led boards, that is really helping the efficiency here.
Also changed the transistor to a TIP3055 NPN.
peace love light
I just did another system test and found with all bulbs lit brightly I had 6.2625 watts  measured between the 17 watt USB adapter and the setup.  All other system watt values I measured were lower.  So the big question now is how is 63 bulb watts powered by 6+ watts which was the highest value measured ??
Waiting to compare results from anyone who has gone this far.

SkyWatcher123

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #142 on: April 26, 2017, 05:10:53 AM »
Hi magnetman, I am also having good results, though i switched to 12 volt input, since i'm using the 12 volt gutted led bulbs now.
It is definitely brighter than the previous video i shared of the ecosmart bulbs.
The oscillator is powering 5 gutted 12 volt led bulbs at 11.81 volts at 280 milliamps or 3.3 watts.
One of them is a 6000k color temperature bulb and is a little brighter than the warm white.
They sent me the wrong bulbs, oh well.
https://youtu.be/jBcPsE0m1y0
peace love light

magnetman12003

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #143 on: April 26, 2017, 07:22:16 AM »
Well that's two of us and possibly more persons later that are having good luck using this startup LED low power technology.
I wonder when someone wakes up in the automotive industry and sees the light.
Auto components can be downsized starting with the alternator and all wiring if LED bulbs are employed. Less weight.
That in itself should be a wakeup call.  Get a excellent team of engineers on this and no telling how far it may go. Don't need a lot of current to push through the wires any more.

I also have to mention that it could be used to light up places that are impoverished because the cost of electricity is beyond reach.  With a low wattage setup like this it becomes a viable commodity.
No the electric companies won't go out of business they will only get more customers,
Its a win -win situation for all.
It my hope a lot of persons takes this to heart.

Ed morbus

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #144 on: April 26, 2017, 08:46:30 AM »
magnetman12003
have you more info for total cable wire length and how many ohm

magnetman12003

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #145 on: April 26, 2017, 08:09:01 PM »
magnetman12003
have you more info for total cable wire length and how many ohm
If you are asking about the coil makeup then here is the info:
740 feet of [two wire] 24 gauge PVC coated wire is needed.  19 ohms should be measured through each wire if correctly cut.  Wind the FACTORY PRE TWISTED  cross connect (name) wire clockwise  starting from the INNER core and stopping at the OUTER outside. Now you have a air core coil.  Spool diameter is 6.5 inches, width is 2  1/8 inch.  The spool and 1000 feet of this kind of wire can be found on Ebay.
 This particular spool below is great as it shows two long wires coming out of the core.  All one has to do now is strip off enough wire from the outside of the spool till you have 19 ohms measured and you have a finished coil.  The spool itself is the diameter/width needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Roll-of-General-Wire-Cross-Connect-2-C-24AWG-1000-Wire-Blue-White-/172635713218?hash=item2831e3eec2:g:2mMAAOSwGy5Y8Eie


Ed morbus

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #146 on: April 26, 2017, 10:48:32 PM »
Thanks for information
To the Netherlands Shipping costs are so expensive

gyulasun

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #147 on: April 26, 2017, 11:19:23 PM »
I just did another system test and found with all bulbs lit brightly I had 6.2625 watts  measured between the 17 watt USB adapter and the setup.  All other system watt values I measured were lower.  So the big question now is how is 63 bulb watts powered by 6+ watts which was the highest value measured ??
Waiting to compare results from anyone who has gone this far.

Hi magnetman,

I would like you to consider the following test suggestion. It would help to check with pretty good accuracy how much output power your setup feeds into the group of your LED bulbs.

You have got a variable power supply as shown in an earlier video of yours. That power supply could be used to drive the same group of LED bulbs directly to achieve the same brightness your setup provides. And if you happen to have a lux meter then the subjective eye ball comparison in the two brightnesses could also be eliminated.

Because your power supply has built-in output voltage and current meters (but you can also use your multimeters to double check)  the power driving the group of LEDs directly from the power supply could be received and calculated that is needed to achieve the equivalent brightness your setup provides. Thus a more exact estimation of the input - output levels can be had.

I understand you wish people replicate this setup, the more the better.  One thing is sure: if the results of your measurements as suggested above reflect similar behaviour for your setup what you wrapped up like this in an earlier post:
"THE REAL QUESTION TO ASK IS HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE CONSIDERING THE FACT THAT CLOSE TO 63 WATTS ARE NEEDED TO POWER THE BULBS? 4 TO 6+ WATTS SHOULD NOT DO THIS??",  then you will surely have your wish fulfilled.

People normally need technically convincing proof to take actions.  I do know you are an honest experimenter, you do have good intentions and your findings seem to refer to an anomaly. This should be proved by all means possible, in a scientific way.

Thanks,
Gyula

ramset

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #148 on: April 26, 2017, 11:30:04 PM »
Gyula

a humble suggestion, caloric measurement protocol ?

a fixed loss to ambient test .

put the bulbs in a box ...measure the max temp the box rises  against ambient losses,[it will peak] note input power
from DUT [device under test]

now run same test off standard power [control]
if DUT [device under test] makes same box hotter with less input power
do the happy dance

very very simple test, have used it many times {thanks Vortex1]

I can ask for assistance here if you wish[to thoroughly explain simple test]

the results once done properly will not be disputable

a cardboard box and a thermometer [instead of Lux meter which may not be as conclusive]

with respect
Chet K

gyulasun

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Re: 3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS
« Reply #149 on: April 26, 2017, 11:47:12 PM »
Hi Chet,

Well, your suggestion would also be feasable I think and a thermally well isolated and closed box should be built for such tests.

I assume the direct DC power input measurement to the group of the LEDs from a clean power supply to get the same brightness (lumen output) the setup feeds into it may be a simple method. 

Obviously, there can be some methods to consider and which is simpler but still able to give reasonable measurement results.  I do not insist on my suggested method,  the goal is clear. 

Thanks,
Gyula