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Author Topic: Crystal Cell Research for Experimenter  (Read 250368 times)

tgraca

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Re: Building JT's
« Reply #105 on: November 27, 2014, 09:44:11 PM »
Any values will work to some extent... Get a little breadboard and experiment with the values, then when you find something that works best, solder it together.
PS - you asked me why I would like a power supply that could increment in the uA range..  configuring these JT's to work better with low powered cells is why... I used to use that 10 mH/10 mH JT with 2 100 uF polarized caps and a 1k resistor and a very low powered red LED to blink some of my really early cells with power as low as 0.2 to 0.4 mV and only 1 uA.

tgraca

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Power Supply - #345 resurrected
« Reply #106 on: November 27, 2014, 10:37:01 PM »
PS - you asked me why I would like a power supply that could increment in the uA range..  configuring these JT's to work better with low powered cells is why... I used to use that 10 mH/10 mH JT with 2 100 uF polarized caps and a 1k resistor and a very low powered red LED to blink some of my really early cells with power as low as 0.2 to 0.4 mV and only 1 uA.
I found my old buck boost converter and used one of my 9.6 V lead alum batteries as a source. I had dug out most of the electrolyte from #345 this morning and replaced it with pure alum, but it didn't help. It was still at about 620 mV under load 12 hours later, and it's still wet... so I hooked up the boost converter, set it to 63 volts and it kicked a charge at 0.03 amps for about 30 seconds... the cells was showing 90 mA on short and is up to 1.7 volts. Under load, it is showing 1.431 volts... interesting...

We'll have to break out the calculation for joules (one watt of power for one second, or one "watt second" (W·s) ) to see if we are getting any extra back out of it... that's the problem with charging these cells. If you kick 60 volts at 1 amp for 60 seconds for example, you have put in 60 joules (60 WS) of power, so calculating how long the cells should run at variable power becomes an issue. For example... If the cell is using an average of 2 mA at an average of 1V, 60 joules would mean this cell has to run for 8.3 hours to get a COP of 1... please check my math... I see where you are coming from now with the charging... 63 volts at 0.03 amps is only 1.89 joules, so a 30 second charge = 56.7 joules, which means if this thing runs for over 9 hours, we will at least prove this is a viable idea...

I have never tried to charge a mag./copper/alum cell before, but there was some crystallization on the mag. from Fausto's electrolyte and some of the old electrolyte around the sides, so if it is charging the cell, that's one thing, but like Fausto said, maybe it is doing something else with this electrolyte, like forming the crystals in a very interesting way!!!

Well, at least it seems I have a workable power source now. If I can't get enough power out of my lead alum batteries, I'll hook it up to one of my RV batteries with a 10A diode (to protect the boost converter - it's rated at 10A max input) between the positive input and see if I can get more amps out of the boost converter. I'll have to check, but I think I had it set for 0.35 amps, but it was only pushing 0.03 amps... again... I'll check...

tgraca

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Crystal Batteries #'s 344 & 345 Nov. 28, 2014 Rechargeable
« Reply #107 on: November 28, 2014, 01:39:28 PM »
I found my old buck boost converter...
The alum battery is having trouble supplying this buck boost converter. I'll attach a diode next time and connect it to one of my RV batteries.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZQ6sZrJZhQ

plengo

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Re: Crystal Batteries #'s 344 & 345 Nov. 28, 2014 Rechargeable
« Reply #108 on: November 28, 2014, 06:32:49 PM »
The alum battery is having trouble supplying this buck boost converter. I'll attach a diode next time and connect it to one of my RV batteries.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZQ6sZrJZhQ


LOVELY video, thank you. Rechargeable is indeed very interesting.  When I build this cell like in the video I shown at the next instant the cell has no power but with time the power goes up. I thought that was enough evidence to discard the super capacitor possibility. I still don't think this cell "stores" energy by that process you did.


I think something else is at play here.


I do have some experiments you could do since you are about to create more of those 344s. All using the FC62 (super cook with the large voltage - your battery system is very good, use it).


- one with towel paper wrapped around the Mg and allow a slice of the paper come out of the solid mix so that with time you can add Epson only solution to it without having to expose the insides to the air.

- one just like the first but 1/2 exposed to air so it makes even easier to add Epson only solution while also exposed to air which means higher evaporation.

- one identical to 344 (totally encased Mg cooked) but the load to be a SHORT (straight wire). Leave it for days and once in a while measure its current output with a meter. I notice those cells runs better with a lower impedance load than higher. They love to push hard.

- one much more liquid solution F134 in different degrees until almost watery. I am suspicious that there is a point of perfect performance which is not solid neither liquid.


If you could do some of those it would be wonderful because I have been doing the same also with Mg strips (like you) and I have noticed some very interesting properties.


I also dissected some and the Mg is intact, some parts even shinning BUT only when the Copper became red/black and Mg was covered with a black oxide.


Fausto.

plengo

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Re: Crystal Cell Research for Experimenter
« Reply #109 on: November 28, 2014, 06:45:10 PM »
Btw,


in my very successful cell that has been running super steady, when I made her I let her die by drying out completely. This allowed the crystals to grow to their maximum without being used up.


I reactivated them by adding a little bit of Epson solution and that's it, magic happens. No more water ever. Exposed to air and wrapped in tape to avoid dust or accidents with liquids.


Now, I am trying to replicate the same but without having to wait for months for the cell to dry up. I have tried oven, FC62 many times and so on. So far not much success, bummer. This is another reason I need more people testing to find out FASTER how to replicate 100% of the time this successful cell. She is giving a flat 2.588 volts over a 10 mm green LED for days and days and days and days.....and......


I would love to replicate it using the Mg strips because they are cheap, readily available and super light and small.


I know that to replicate a few things must happen. One is the red/black oxide over the Copper. Another is the black oxide over the Mg and it must solidify, both. Then the Epson solution will re-activate and make the magic. The FC62 is MY WAY of accomplishing that instead of months for that layer to grow. Success in this process so far.


Mg will not corrode when properly done this steps and the cell is properly shielded from external water.


Now my crazy theory: THose are not fuel cells, they are Hydro-cells. They use Hydrogen from the air to run. Yes, Hydrogen, the by product is O2 (oxigen). My intution.


Fausto.


tgraca

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Re: Crystal Battery #353 - The Build And Initial Tests
« Reply #110 on: November 28, 2014, 07:43:49 PM »
Today - 1105 mV under load.
Today - 1054 mV under load.

tgraca

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Re: New Build #354 Status - cooked cell
« Reply #111 on: November 28, 2014, 07:47:33 PM »
Today - 1101 mV under load.
Today - 1080 mV under load.

tgraca

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Re: Crystal Battery #351
« Reply #112 on: November 28, 2014, 07:56:18 PM »
Today's mV reading under load - 731
Today's mV reading under load - still 731

tgraca

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Re: Crystal Cell #352 - Nov. 23, 2014
« Reply #113 on: November 28, 2014, 08:28:23 PM »
Today's mV reading under load - 1074
Today's mV reading under load - 1057

tgraca

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Re: New Build #355 Status
« Reply #114 on: November 28, 2014, 08:31:52 PM »
Similar to #354, but thinned out the electrolyte (it a liquid instead of a mush) and poured into cell with a little air pocket and sealed with caulk. Very weak to start. 940 mV under load.
970 mV under load today. I may have not let it recover after the short mA test....

tgraca

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#354
« Reply #115 on: November 28, 2014, 11:51:21 PM »
It looks like the best performing cell I have so far is #354 - the heavy mush mix...

12 parts activated carbon
6 parts Epsom salt
2 parts hydrate #5
2 parts MnO2
1 parts borax

I will charge it this time prior to sealing it. I am working on a way to charge 4 consistently with voltage and amperage with various lengths of time to test HOW the charging affects the longevity of the cells. In the mean time, I am working on a JT for some new LED's, which vary in color and mA draw per color. I spent some time today on this JT circuit, but had only a little success. It may take some time, but I like these RGB slow changing LED's and want  them to run on these crystal batteries!

tgraca

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black oxide
« Reply #116 on: November 29, 2014, 03:13:03 PM »
I know that to replicate a few things must happen. One is the red/black oxide over the Copper. Another is the black oxide over the Mg and it must solidify.
I would like to determine what the black formation over the mag strip is in my corrosion experiment with borax. Do you think that is black oxide? It turns gray when dried and shows ZERO connectivity when testing with a 1K ohm tester. It took less than a day to form on the mag strip. I wonder if a quick wash with a borax/water solution on the copper and mag strips would accomplish the same thing... I don't want to expend too much energy on a small cell, which would make these cells nonviable.

A little charging at low amperage to form the crystals makes sense, but the amount of energy necessary to form that black oxide layer on the copper makes it nonviable in my opinion. Also, that process results in a variable outcome and could only be replicated consistently and efficiently in a lab with 10's of thousands of dollars worth of equipment... or much more...

I have checked into the cost of owning and operating machines to make transistors and capacitors... it would cost close to a million dollars to buy and house either (not both), plus there would be costs associated with materials and labor... this is not for me... it's not good to create a process that is not easily replicatable, even at the cost of output. If someone can create a battery and circuit for a nightlight that runs for a month or more (for instance) for less than $1 and rebuild the battery for a few cents, or water just the battery, then that would be, in my opinion, a viable nightlight project for people (like me) that like to make their own toys! lol

So, I will push toward this goal. I don't mind passing a little voltage through the battery, but you saw the 47 minute mess I made with the soup mix (#344)... that's not going to work for me... maybe a short charge or a simple coating of chemicals to get the same effect.

NOTE: you can buy black oxide online and maybe just mixing it with some borax and a quick rinse on the copper would accomplish the same thing. If this works, we have no use of energy to get the same effect. Have you tried this? I would rather limit my viability calculations to just cost of materials instead of adding energy usage and joule math into the calculations... if possible.

tgraca

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Re: black oxide
« Reply #117 on: November 29, 2014, 03:42:05 PM »
I would like to determine what the black formation over the mag strip is in my corrosion experiment with borax. Do you think that is black oxide?
From wikipedia: Black oxide for copper, sometimes known by the trade name Ebonol C, converts the copper surface to cupric oxide. For the process to work the surface has to have at least 65% copper; for copper surfaces that have less than 90% copper it must first be pretreated with an activating treatment. The finished coating is chemically stable and very adherent.

So, here is a non-electric and non-heating process to accomplish the same thing with just a chemical coating...

I found another company makes something like ebonol C. Durablack Liquid and Durablack Pre-Dip
see: http://heatbath.com/metal-finishing-products/black-oxide-finishing/black-oxide-for-non-ferrous-metals/
Heatbath Corporation (*USA) T (413) 452-2000

Anyone can also buy cupric oxide powder for about $10/lb. on ebay.

tgraca

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Re: black oxide
« Reply #118 on: November 29, 2014, 05:06:06 PM »
Alternative to Ebonol C and Durablack Liquid
Oxidizing (blackening, coloring) of a copper workpiece is commonly carried out by immersion of the part into a heated alkaline solution containing an oxidizing compound (e.g. sodium chlorite). ref. http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=black_copper_oxide_coating

NOTE: borax (boron) "In its most familiar compounds, boron has the formal oxidation state III. These include oxides, sulfides, nitrides, and halides." - ref. wikipedia... also, it says it is "mildly acidic"

tgraca

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Re: black oxide
« Reply #119 on: November 29, 2014, 05:21:10 PM »
Oxidizing (blackening, coloring) of a copper workpiece is commonly carried out by immersion of the part into a heated alkaline solution containing an oxidizing compound (e.g. sodium chlorite). ref. http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=black_copper_oxide_coating

NOTE: borax (boron) "In its most familiar compounds, boron has the formal oxidation state III. These include oxides, sulfides, nitrides, and halides." - ref. wikipedia... also, it says it is "mildly acidic"
Here's a quick way to create heat inside a copper pipe and possibly form some copper oxide inside the tube. lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_X1CqK59ls