https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOepViJhHTA




Wesley

1) I can power microcontrollers separately and not consider their power consumption in the experiment. The point of the experiment is to design a circuit to prove a point, not to get "overunity". 30 watts is plenty to drive a microcontroller, even a small computer. Versatility is the key. When I find out what I want, I will go for efficiency - design a specific circuit for an output of a specific waveform. This was the original plan, at least.

2) I am skilled enough to design my own simple amplifiers, I prefer FETs. Decoding the circuit that someone else designed is not my thing. This voltage regulator in the video makes me wonder if all those components were placed for a good reason or only because the inventor had them at hand...

Maybe FBI added those components to confuse those who try to replicate the circuit.
All I need to know is what waveform was created under what conditions. Correct? This is where I will need some help.

I did the same, got my signal to drive the transistor from a pc and played with the frequency and duty factor. This for the Akula eternal lantern . Normally I should get an increase in voltage higher than the power supply if I get the right signal, Im I correct ? However, I did not get anything ou, all I want now is a kit if someone did it.

It looks like you've just about got the oscilloscope figured out, though. Congratulations on that!

Were you able to "unlock" the scope's extra functions and higher bandwidth? I'm curious because my DS1054Z should be delivered to me tomorrow, from a new production batch from Rigol.
What is the firmware version and board revision number of your scope, if it's not too much trouble?
Thanks in advance--
--TK

my ds1054 work over 100Mhz
I made dill with diller-i order from chehoslovakia- and receive already unlocked scope. In phase of scope invastigations what to by i download program for key unlock scope so you can try.
send me PM with email -ill send you program

Thanks, I have the keygen program already, in HTML, Windows and Linux command-line versions. (The Linux is source code + makefile and needs to be compiled for your actual system, but that's as easy as running the makefile from your command line.) I've tested them all with some serial numbers I got from the web, and they all work. Of course I haven't actually tested the keys they spit out, but at least they all spit out the same key when a serial number and option code is entered.

Hope that will work in real because unlocked scope is great value for money and work brilliant, just one remark- cooling fan  produce bunch of noise but as long i have guaranty don't want to open and reduce fan speed or found some other solution

It's easy enough to remove the "warranty" sticker without damaging it. You heat it up with warm air from blowdryer and carefully slide some slick paper (like glossy photopaper or similar) underneath it, carefully working a little bit at a time. Keep it on the slick paper for storage, then you can replace it on the scope if you need to send it back for warranty. 

A couple of fans have been mentioned as quiet replacements:

Gelid  Silent 5
or
Fractal Design FD-FAN-SSR2-50

I've already ordered one of the FD fans from a seller in Houston, should be here in a few days. $9.99 USD plus tax, free shipping.  If the scope is so noisy it keeps me awake, I'll put the new fan in.

TK:

On a slightly related topic, the Raspberry Pi 2 is brand new and very exciting for the hobbyist.

http://www.raspberrypi.org/raspberry-pi-2-on-sale/

You can run Kodi/XBMC on it and it can decode 1080p H264 video no prob!  You effectively have a Linux quad-core computer the size of a credit card for $35 USD plus keyboard, mouse, monitor.

I may buy one so that I can Velcro a media center computer on the back of my TV!

MileHigh

ether receiver may be damaged by static electricity... at least mine isn't working right anymore - I have a nylon brush on this new vacuum and it builds a nice static charge; discharges into my hand as I vacuum   but passed that over the ether cable and the network no longer works


just really wanted to post SOMETHING. 

replica
not working

Hi,

i hope anybody can help me. I wanna replicate this circuit, but the coils confuses me.

Ferrite pot core OB30 M1500. 3 coils 50 turns each using 0.35mm insulated magnetic wire. The induction is 3x716 uH. Standard 2 sections coil holder.
One section is used by the bifiler coil (L1 & L2) and the other section is for the L3. Naturally, an air gap of 0.5mm is required (according to the theory).

First is a copper foil, then solder a wire and the copper wire, right?
Then wrap tape over it. Then wind bifilar?

If i have success, i wanna create a pcb in eagle and order few pieces.

I hope i get reply.
Thanks for your help, i really appreciate, it. 

Best regards,
Mike