Author Topic: 3v OU Flashlight (Read 566822 times)

avalon · « **Reply #660 on:** May 24, 2014, 10:21:39 PM »

Quote from: tarakan on May 24, 2014, 08:17:17 PM

Уважаемый semenihin-77,
какая схема из трех, приведенных в первом посте, у Вас лучше всего заработала?

Its the very first one with the C1815 transistor. However, a word of caution. No-one has been able to replicate it, as essence of the circuit is not in the schematics but rather in the coils and the ferrite core used.
Understanding the principle behind the circuit is the key and I would suggest, with respect, to postpone your trip to the nearest RadioShack until you now exactly what you are about to do.

~A

tarakan · « **Reply #661 on:** May 24, 2014, 11:50:44 PM »

This circuit seems to be the most realistic one and I want to replicate it.

I got it off this forum post and fixed it. Part of the circuit was misalligned with the rest.

lost_bro · « **Reply #662 on:** May 25, 2014, 12:41:50 AM »

Quote from: T-1000 on May 24, 2014, 12:38:04 PM

In regards to circuit in topic - it is operating in same way as akula's flashlights and both are from same source:
http://www.skif.biz/index.php?name=Pages&op=page&pid=103
https://yadi.sk/d/pYQJSGjKDEQVR

Cheers!

Thanks T-1000
I find it very interesting the part in the 2nd. Video where he attempts to power-up the GLED device with the battery, but the coil does *NOT* have the POT core attached. In other words, it is just the coil bobbin in the circuit at this time without its POT core attached:

He momentarily touches the battery to the contacts and the smaller RED leds light-up for about 2 seconds and then die out..........

Then he attaches the POT core to the coil bobbin and places the *Metal* screw thru the POT core & bobbin and threads it *into* the PCB.

Now upon touching the battery to the contacts, ALL the LEDs light up very brightly and stay lit.........with the core & Screw in place.

The other interesting part in the 1st video is where he attempts to power-up the GLED and it starts up but the LEDS are dim..... then he grabs the screwdriver and tightens up the center screw on the POT core.

Now, with the center screw threaded into place on the PCB, he restarts the GLED and the LEDS all light up very brightly........

Appears to me that the center screw plays a very serious role in the overall equation of operation.

Thanks again and take care, peace.
lost_bro

avalon · « **Reply #663 on:** May 25, 2014, 02:13:18 AM »

Quote from: tarakan on May 24, 2014, 11:50:44 PM

This circuit seems to be the most realistic one and I want to replicate it.

I got it off this forum post and fixed it. Part of the circuit was misalligned with the rest.

There is a separate discussion thread for this circuit. You might want to check it out.

~A

tarakan · « **Reply #664 on:** May 25, 2014, 03:59:40 AM »

Quote from: avalon on May 25, 2014, 02:13:18 AM

There is a separate discussion thread for this circuit. You might want to check it out.

~A

What is it called?

avalon · « **Reply #665 on:** May 25, 2014, 04:30:33 AM »

http://www.overunity.com/14610/akula0083-light-no3-dual-tl494/

d3x0r · « **Reply #666 on:** May 25, 2014, 10:40:07 AM »

Quote from: avalon on May 25, 2014, 04:30:33 AM

http://www.overunity.com/14610/akula0083-light-no3-dual-tl494/

that's not really the same...
MC35blahblah or dual tl494 ... or lasersaber jouleringer extroidinaire something

but regarding your scope and resonance, you said ti was a combination of frequencies... so if you change the yellow while the blue is making a spikey red... so you gain/lose spikeyness?

gyulasun · « **Reply #667 on:** May 25, 2014, 11:35:11 AM »

Hi Lost_bro,

you wrote:

Quote

Appears to me that the center screw plays a very serious role in the overall equation of operation.

I think the role of the center screw is to fix and hold the two pot core halves together.
When you have no any pot core around the bobbin or they are around but the facing halves
are not firmly tightened (i.e. there is air gap betwen them), all this means the inductance of the coil(s)
on the bobbin is not sufficiently high enough for a specific job. By using the pot cores you increase
the inductance to the max possible the pot cores are designed to give and / or to achieve an inductance
value which is already sufficient for the task.

Yes the metal screw influences the inductance of the coils on the bobbin via the pot cores like
a tuning slug core does because it possibly has a u > 1 permeability (unless it is stainless steel
with a u around 1).
But remember that a metal screw can introduce eddy current loss which may not be harmful in this application
but can be in other circuits like narrow band (high Q) LC filters. In the latter case nonmetal fixing means are used
via the through-hole of the pot cores or they are simply glued or clamped together from outside.

Gyula

avalon · « **Reply #668 on:** May 25, 2014, 06:55:52 PM »

Quote from: d3x0r on May 25, 2014, 10:40:07 AM

that's not really the same...
MC35blahblah or dual tl494 ... or lasersaber jouleringer extroidinaire something

but regarding your scope and resonance, you said ti was a combination of frequencies... so if you change the yellow while the blue is making a spikey red... so you gain/lose spikeyness?

Pay attention, man. I was referring to the dual-TL494 schematics posted by tarakan.

~A

lost_bro · « **Reply #669 on:** May 25, 2014, 08:05:23 PM »

Quote from: gyulasun on May 25, 2014, 11:35:11 AM

Hi Lost_bro,

you wrote:
I think the role of the center screw is to fix and hold the two pot core halves together.
When you have no any pot core around the bobbin or they are around but the facing halves
are not firmly tightened (i.e. there is air gap betwen them), all this means the inductance of the coil(s)
on the bobbin is not sufficiently high enough for a specific job. By using the pot cores you increase
the inductance to the max possible the pot cores are designed to give and / or to achieve an inductance
value which is already sufficient for the task.

Yes the metal screw influences the inductance of the coils on the bobbin via the pot cores like
a tuning slug core does because it possibly has a u > 1 permeability (unless it is stainless steel
with a u around 1).
But remember that a metal screw can introduce eddy current loss which may not be harmful in this application
but can be in other circuits like narrow band (high Q) LC filters. In the latter case nonmetal fixing means are used
via the through-hole of the pot cores or they are simply glued or clamped together from outside.

Gyula

Good day Gyula

Yes, I understand the necessity to firmly clamp the ferrites together in relation to the inductance generated......

But, the interesting note to the situation is that the metal screw not only passes thru the POT core but is fastened with threads to what *appears* to be the ground plane.......

If you only need to fasten the halves together, why use a threaded ground plane connection? I think in that case a nylon bolt & nut would suffice.

I ask, what could be the *possible* relationship between the grounded threaded screw & the copper foil windings within the transformer?

take care, peace
lost_bro

gyulasun · « **Reply #670 on:** May 25, 2014, 08:56:31 PM »

Quote from: lost_bro on May 25, 2014, 08:05:23 PM

...
I ask, what could be the *possible* relationship between the grounded threaded screw &
the copper foil windings within the transformer?
...

Hi Lost_bro,

The possible relationship is capacitance I think. This kind of mounting establishes a capacitive coupling
between the ground and the "inner world" of the pot core.

Gyula

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #671 on:** May 25, 2014, 08:58:41 PM »

Quote from: gyulasun on May 25, 2014, 08:56:31 PM

Hi Lost_bro,

The possible relationship is capacitance I think. This kind of mounting establishes a capacitive coupling
between the ground and the "inner world" of the pot core.

Gyula

Why not use a nylon or ceramic bolt and nut? Or, is the capacitive coupling desirable in this application?

Bill

d3x0r · « **Reply #672 on:** May 25, 2014, 09:10:55 PM »

Quote from: avalon on May 25, 2014, 06:55:52 PM

Pay attention, man. I was referring to the dual-TL494 schematics posted by tarakan.

~A

Was starting to think I was asking the wrong person also ... ya I missed the schematic that was a couple days ago....

but regarding your scope and resonance, you said ti was a combination of frequencies... so if you change the yellow while the blue is making a spikey red... so you gain/lose spikeyness?[/size]

- Oh I see; I gave up after 10 minutes since there was only a small fraction left, I figured you weren't going to get there.

Are high amps good?

gyulasun · « **Reply #673 on:** May 25, 2014, 09:14:22 PM »

Dear Bill,

I do not know why the builder of the setup in question does not use non-metal bolt and nut.
And whether a capacitive coupling is desirable in this application, I can only guess: yes... because
the builder may have found that advantageous.
Sorry.
(When I used pot cores in audio LC filters and one of the coils were ground-independent
in the circuit as the design had it, then the filter response changed a little when I positioned that single
pot core (with the ground independent coil in it) over the PCB ground plane. And I could not use ANY metal
bolts for fixing the cores because at the frequency involved any metal inserted ruined the high Q of the
coils, this increased insertion loss and decreased outside attenuation.

Gyula

Pirate88179 · « **Reply #674 on:** May 25, 2014, 09:26:26 PM »

Gyula:

Thank you for your answer. I agree it would make sense to use non-metalic bolts but I guess we can assume then that he wants the effect by not using them.

A while back, my company made ceramic tuning tools for companies like Motorola for adjusting their pagers. Metal would alter the results and plastic would deform and not work well over time so, they had us make ceramic tips for all of their trim pot designs of which I think there were like 5. That was like 20 years ago....geeze, I am getting old.

Bill

News:

User Menu

Author Topic: 3v OU Flashlight (Read 566822 times)

avalon

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

tarakan

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

lost_bro

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

avalon

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

tarakan

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

avalon

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

d3x0r

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

gyulasun

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

avalon

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

lost_bro

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

gyulasun

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

Pirate88179

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

d3x0r

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

gyulasun

Re: 3v OU Flashlight

Pirate88179

Re: 3v OU Flashlight