someone got lucky?

As promised, here is the video re: resonance in ferrites.
http://youtu.be/-FVX5EcWtXM

Kudos for trying to show how the attenuations of your scope probes are set, but what are you measuring with these probes?  Where are these probes connected and to what circuit?

Unfortunately, at the highest resolution of that video available on YT, I cannot clearly see the probes' attenuation switches nor any characters on the scope's screen nor on the signal generator, except for the big LED display of the power supply. 
I even have to assume that the left LED display shows the supply current expressed in Amperes and the right LED display shows the supply voltage expressed in Volts.  Correct?

I think you are showing that at 17mA and 12V power supply you have some high voltage spikes on the red channel, but I cannot see how high these spikes are (the scope's display is not intelligible at 480p resolution)
Are those spikes measured across some resistive load or are they merely unloaded voltage spikes?

Where is the anomaly?  There are many inductive circuits that can produce naked 1kV spikes out of 10mA 12V power supply.

Like verpies said... what's the anomaly?
When you first mentioned these high voltages, we were discussing the 3V OU Flashlight circuit using the 34063 and the inverter chip, with input of 3 volts. Weren't we? That's the claim that I challenged, and still do. Now you are showing a completely different circuit with a big inductor being pulsed.

So? Did you miss my scopeshot, and the 6-series stack of NE2s as confirmation, showing pulses well over 600 volts, from nothing more than a depleted AAA battery?

I can tell that the probes are set to 10x attenuation. And I don't challenge your measurements, since you aren't using the circuit I thought you were using. And I still say.... so?

Attention to details clearly isn't your forte.

It is hard to see the details.  I simply cannot read digits on the scope's display, not to mention the markings on the ICs of an unknown circuit

Tinsel, I have a question, I have two quite small 3.7 volt 20 mAh batteries from a couple of busted power meters, they would fit easily into a fairly small pot and I can imagine how to wire it as well. The question is - How long do you think a small battery like that could light up a string of say 6 x 5 mm white LED's if I used very small pulses to a coil at about 20 Hz and used the discharge to light the LED's ? I think quite a while, but maybe not. I could maybe fit two into one pot, then connect the terminals to two of the pins of the pot and solder the pins to the rail, some way to trigger it to start and hey presto. I guess the pot can be a switch as well, hahahaha.

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I showed the full "3V" circuit running for a long time on a single thin CR2016 button cell here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZFSnLgXfQE
and if you use "Joule Thief" technology you can light up your 6 LEDs for even longer than shown in that video. Triggering it with a touch is easy, as TinMan has demonstrated. Many JT variants need a little "tickle" to start oscillating and this behaviour can be "tuned" into just about any JT variant circuit by careful choice of component values.
Ironically... many of my own JT circuits work _better_ if you use two or more LEDs _in series_ as the load. The DALM variant with four blue LEDs has them all in series, and it runs for many minutes on a single tiny AG1-LR621 button cell.

I can think of no other good reason that Akula's pots... only two of them, not all.... have their cases soldered to the negative "ground" rail of that circuit. I think there is a good chance that he has batteries in there. But also.... very fine magnet wire, like #32 and below, will not show up on videos made for YouTube, and are plenty sturdy enough to allow powering LEDs and even some incandescent loads from an out-of-frame power source.

These might be a fraction big for the pot in the picture, but I like the battery in the pot idea so I might try to make one to trick my brother  Those button cells hold a fair bit of charge don't they ? These don't seem to hold over 3.5 volts for long but are rechargeable, I think they need a good charging a few times, I had to use a three pack of AAA's and a resistor to charge them up a couple of cycles and they are improving, in the meters they get fully discharged if the meter is taken out of the wall.

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These might be a fraction big for the pot in the picture, but I like the battery in the pot idea so I might try to make one to trick my brother  Those button cells hold a fair bit of charge don't they ? These don't seem to hold over 3.5 volts for long but are rechargeable, I think they need a good charging a few times, I had to use a three pack of AAA's and a resistor to charge them up a couple of cycles and they are improving, in the meters they get fully discharged if the meter is taken out of the wall.

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Hi Farmhand,
There are more choices Battery: Rechargeable 3.6 Volt Lithium Coin Cell Button Battery LIR2450 For Audio Equipment (Voltage: 3.6V Capacity: 120mAh  Dimension: 24.5*5.0mm  Weight: 5.0 gram)

Attention to details clearly isn't your forte.
3 coils (20 turns each, 24G), 2ch driver (IDDX609 + IRF640), no capacitors connected to the coils. Each coil has a negligible resistance.
The third coil (red channel) is the load coil. The resistor in the picture is 5.1 om.

Outside the resonance the circuit exceeds the set current limit of 1.5A. However, @12v 14 mA output is 560V p-p in core resonance.

Hi Avalon,

Have you loaded the output coil with say a 10 kOhm or any suitable resistor? I would like to know what voltage level remains from the 560Vpp voltage and presently I have no means to repeat such test.  In your video the load was the 10x probe input impedance (maybe 10 MOhm//15 pF), right?  (the 5.1 Ohm resistor was floating in the air)

Thanks,  Gyula