Mechanical free energy devices > RomeroUK pulse motor Muller generator
Proof that Flyback alone is enough to sustain a self-runner
MarkE:
--- Quote from: VortexTurtle on April 03, 2014, 12:44:30 AM ---Hey there all,
Here is the rundown: I built a simple pulse motor similar to the one Lidmotor has. I have dubbed it "The Simple Amazing Pulse Motor". I have been playing with it for a week or so now. I actually got it tuned to the point where it is no longer draining the battery I have connected. The battery is a single-cell NiMH 1.2V 2000mAH. I have made a video of it for all to check out. I am going to leave it running until something happens to stop this effect from manifesting, whether that be a cat messing with it, the nail-axle that I'm using breaking free from it's position, or whatever else may happen to mess up my tuning. Right now, it is all about the positioning of the reed switch that matters... Once I got the device to create/allow the flyback to make it back to the battery every single time the magnetic field of the coil collapsed, the effect began manifesting itself.
I wanted to start a thread for this device so I could share it with you all, and so I can better understand exactly what is happening, and what the factors are that matter most in re-creating this effect. I will gladly take more video for you all, and draw up to-scale diagrams of the parts necessary to attempt a recreation of it if you would like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AMHdxCbo3g
(sorry for the narrow vid, I only have my cell phone camera to use for now)
--- End quote ---
That battery has over 8500J capacity. If you can get your motor to run a pump that lifts even half that equivalent energy pumping water then we can talk. Otherwise what you have done is built a watch that uses a very large battery. The Flying Dutchman needs a captain, and every alleged energy source needs a load.
There are a couple of measurement issues to be aware of:
1. The DMM can drift. You can use an ordinary fresh AA alkaline battery as a reference to make sure that mV changes in your meter reading are actually from what you are measuring instead of meter drift. Alkaline batteries have very low self discharge rates, on the order of 0.1mV / day. So just measure the voltage across a new AA cell and record that value whatever it is periodically to track any drift in your DMM.
2. Inductive spikes feeding back to the battery can develop "fluffy charge" on the cell. See my comments below to Magluvin. If you put a 100uF capacitor and a 0.1uF capacitor in parallel right across your battery the capacitors will smooth out the spikes and greatly reduce that error.
Your alternative is as others have suggested to greatly reduce the energy capacity of your power source, such as using a capacitor. A switch between a battery and a capacitor will do, or you could use a bench supply in place of the battery and a diode (Schottky preferred but an ordinary 1N4002 will do) in series between the power supply and the rest of your circuit which will have the added capacitor across it. You will need to compensate the initial power supply setting for the diode drop. You can dial that out by just monitoring the circuit side voltage and adjusting the power supply voltage as needed. Once the thing is running and charged up to the right voltage, turn the power supply voltage down to zero, or turn the supply off. If the voltage builds up you've found the Holy Grail. If the voltage decays and the thing stops, you are still under unity.
MarkE:
--- Quote from: Magluvin on April 08, 2014, 12:49:53 AM ---One thing to make sure of when you get this effect, make sure the battery wasnt being used before connecting it to the motor.
If the batt was being used by the motor before you got the reed switch in the 'right' place, the motor could have been running less efficient at the time and pulled more current from the battery, and now that it is running very eff, the battery may be still recovering from the heavier use. Like if after you got the reed in the right place, it is likely that if you turned off the motor and measured the battery, you may have seen the battery climb a bit faster than when the motor is running very efficiently. I have been fooled by this before.
So once you have your reed in the right spot, use some masking tape to mark the spot where the reed is setting on the table. Make a square around the reed base without moving the reed. Then you can always put it back if it is moved. Now try a battery that has been resting for a few hours so that the voltage settles and sits at that voltage.
Use another battery to start the motor to get it up to speed, then switch out the battery for the settled test battery. If you see voltage climb on the newly installed settled battery, then you may have something. The reason for the substitute battery to get it up to speed, so that the test battery isnt getting a small beating while starting the motor. There could be enough drain on the test battery during start up that the battery could take a while to 'recover' and possibly be seen as a gain when it is only us being tricked into thinking so. ;)
Mags
--- End quote ---
That method is still vulnerable to "fluffy charge", that is over voltage on the battery caused by pulse charging above the cell potential. This can give the false appearance that a battery is charging when it is really discharging. Filtering out the voltage spikes with a good set of capacitors will fix that. The other issue is battery capacity. If you want to see what is happening, you want the minimum battery capacity that will do the job. The smallest capacity NiMH that I know of are 1/3 AAA's at about 120-150mAH capacity which is still over 500J. Here is just one source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/110739119828?lpid=82 Remember: watches run on tiny single cell batteries typically for one to two years. Whether the thing is discharging the battery or creating free energy, the smaller the battery, the faster you will be able to tell.
The capacitor method suggested by others is a better way to go. By comparison: A 1000uF capacitor charged to 1.2V is only 720uJ, that's roughly ten million times less than his present 2000mAH cell. The capacitor should be large enough that the voltage dips by less than 1% each electrical cycle. That requires either knowing the duration of a cycle and the typical current during the cycle, or just experimenting to determine the right amount of capacitance. Low voltage electrolytic capacitors are cheap so something like 100,000uF is not going to cost much. He could for example buy 10 each 10,000uF caps, use them all initially and if all goes well, then try using fewer and fewer. If it doesn't work with 100,000uF then we know it was just a matter of not waiting long enough for the battery to run down.
TinselKoala:
I'd also like to point out that fluctuations at the mV level, as shown, can also be caused by changing ambient temperature. A few degrees rise in the temperature of the battery can cause a few mV change in the measured voltage.
I have one system here that has a very interesting behaviour. It's the DALM, a 4-LED Joule Thief that runs on a depleted button cell battery. Long after the LEDs go out, though, it continues to oscillate, and will eventually (after days) go into a "burst" mode, where it will oscillate, rising in frequency and dropping battery voltage, until it stops at some low level like 0.360 V.... at which point the battery starts to recover voltage, and when it recovers to some higher value, the oscs start up again.... and this can repeat for days, all happening without any LED action, they stay off. But if I heat up the battery with a soldering iron, it can get up to over 0.61 volts and the LEDs light up again, for a few seconds until the voltage drops, and this process can be repeated over and over.
Google:
--- Quote from: VortexTurtle on April 03, 2014, 12:44:30 AM ---Hey there all,
Here is the rundown: I built a simple pulse motor similar to the one Lidmotor has. I have dubbed it "The Simple Amazing Pulse Motor". I have been playing with it for a week or so now. I actually got it tuned to the point where it is no longer draining the battery I have connected. The battery is a single-cell NiMH 1.2V 2000mAH. I have made a video of it for all to check out. I am going to leave it running until something happens to stop this effect from manifesting, whether that be a cat messing with it, the nail-axle that I'm using breaking free from it's position, or whatever else may happen to mess up my tuning. Right now, it is all about the positioning of the reed switch that matters... Once I got the device to create/allow the flyback to make it back to the battery every single time the magnetic field of the coil collapsed, the effect began manifesting itself.
I wanted to start a thread for this device so I could share it with you all, and so I can better understand exactly what is happening, and what the factors are that matter most in re-creating this effect. I will gladly take more video for you all, and draw up to-scale diagrams of the parts necessary to attempt a recreation of it if you would like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AMHdxCbo3g
(sorry for the narrow vid, I only have my cell phone camera to use for now)
--- End quote ---
Cummon turtle ;D ;D , keep your nicad battery in sun for 30 minutes, its voltage will climb up. ;D ;D , so should we conclude that sunlight charged the battery ? >:( >:(
Grow up man. Get out of Bedinism and Beardenism ;D ;D ;D
Best,
Google:
Bearded @$$hâ—‹|3 and potbellied B3d!n! are using Teslas name to sell their $#!t to gullible people. Get over it man. Dont waste your time after these two.
Best,
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