Solid States Devices > Tesla Technologgy
My Tesla Coil.
mx1000:
I have readed a lot on http://www.free-energy-info.tuks.nl/.
Mainly scanned most, except for chapter 3. That regards solid state devices.
I have also read, but not understand (because else I wouldn't ask here) The Quest Of Zero-Point Energy(field ?) and Tapping the Zero-point energy field.
It should be noted those books are 'dated' and not up to date to most recent.
Anyways I have built a tesla coil, but its not complete yet aswell working.
Any feedback/help would be greatly appreciated.
Now my problem is, that the wire itself is very thin, woven, copper.
Under conrad it falls under 'Koperdraad 192m CLI 200/15'
I wired like 190M on the coil.
If I finish the coil, will it work because the wire is so thin and woven/spinned together ?
I post more pictures later if needed/wanted.
If I understand the tesla coil properly, and what I readed (please correct me if mistaken),
It is no free energy UNLESS you use static energy with dielectric isulation and turbo amplfy it with a turbo coil or multiple coils.
But on the other side I also readed that when you have a turbo coil, and you have 1 volt @ 60 hertz, and after the coil it comes out at 1 volt 120 hertz you actually have, when splitted down, 4 volts of 60 hertz ?
And the only ZPE energy gain from the tesla coil is when you transmit and receive the energy ?
Please, and please, post serious.
No I have not studied electric nor English ;).
I do understand I still need a Toroid (or a metallic drink can FE coca-cola can(empty)).
Aswell conductors/capacitors.
Anyways this is my schematic (somehow simplified it formyself)
http://img.ctrlv.in/5105155b7096d.jpg
and the 'coil' :
http://img.ctrlv.in/510515db90d39.jpg
And the wire-setup;
http://img.ctrlv.in/5105159a89f75.jpg
More detailed winding;
http://img.ctrlv.in/5102d3180991b.jpg
Better 'size' speculation ?
http://img.ctrlv.in/5102d3c55b509.jpg
TinselKoala:
Congratulations on your first Tesla Coil project! There are some things you should know, though.
First, let me remind you that Tesla Coils can be _dangerous_ if you don't know what you are doing. You can very easily kill yourself, or get very serious burns from them. The Tesla Coil is actually a very sophisticated apparatus, even though it appears simple at first. Much work has been done by many people to find out what works, and what doesn't.
Second... I can't tell from your description and pictures whether or not your wire is insulated. Does it have enamel insulation on it or is it just bare, twisted copper as it appears? If it is NOT insulated, then of course your coil will not work. If it is insulated, then it _could_ work if other problems are taken care of. The multi-strand twisting isn't important, but is a waste of wire and money (in my opinion.) Most Tesla Coils use single-strand, enamelled copper, "magnet wire" for the secondary coil. For example my MOT-DC coil uses #27, single-enamel coated magnet wire for the secondary.
Third... the schematic you present is not correct, as well as I can figure it out. Please study some Tesla Coil schematics that you can find on the web, and look at the differences in the primary circuits. Also, neatness in the drawing helps us to understand what you are presenting, and neatness in the actual TC layout will help you, in terms of safety and ease of operation. I'm not too good at drawing schematics myself, but I always try to realize that someone else may not know how to interpret my scrawls, especially if I use non-standard symbols and terms.
Fourth: the spark gap is a critical element of a Tesla Coil, perhaps the most critical. I can tell you right away that your spark gap structure will not work very well. You need to be able to adjust the spacing, you need to deal with the heat and gases from the spark gap, you need to beware of the high voltage here. A simple 2-element gap made like yours won't work very well. Please study the spark gaps used in working coils. A good gap doesn't have to be complicated or use a motor, but it does have to be designed properly. A multi-element gap made from pieces of copper pipe can work very well and isn't much more complicated than your simple pair of screws.
Fifth... the construction of the primary coil and its supply, including the spark gap, tank capacitor and high-voltage AC source, is also critical for good performance. You need some work here as well. What do you intend to use for the primary AC voltage source? Most people building simple spark-gap Tesla Coils (SGTCs) will use a neon sign transformer (NST), rated anywhere from 6 to 15 kilovolts (6000 to 15000 volts output) at 5 to 30 milliAmps. This, in combination with the necessary capacitor, will make a VERY DANGEROUS primary circuit and you need to keep this in mind as you lay out your parts and connect them together. Any decent capacitor used in a SGTC will also hold a charge long after the power is disconnected and can easily kill you if you grab the wrong wire at the wrong time, even if the coil is unplugged and not operating.
Sixth... the topload. This can be a sphere or toroid or other smooth rounded shape. Size and smoothness are the important features here. A "coke can" isn't really going to be adequate for a coil of your dimensions. You could use steel bowls from a restaurant supply store, or you could wrap a wooden or styrofoam form with metal foil tape, or you could use shiny car hubcaps like I used in my TinselKoil 2.0, a high-power solidstate coil. I have even seen people use small tire inner tubes wrapped with aluminum duct tape or cooking foil. Any "donut" toroid or sphere shape should work as long as it has a smooth surface without sharp points or really tight curves. I've had good luck with metal clothes-dryer ducting, even though it's not particularly smooth in appearance, it seems to be electrically "smooth" enough to work. This topload is the "terminal capacitance" and works by lowering the resonant frequency of the secondary coil itself and holding charge while the voltage builds up. If you have rough surfaces or sharp points or edges here the voltage blows off as corona before it can build to a high value.
May I make a suggestion? Look up "Slayer Exciter" and build one of those first, following instructions exactly. This is a simple, low-voltage solid-state TC system that is NOT dangerous to build and operate, and will teach you a lot about construction and operation. Once you've gotten a Slayer Exciter to work, and you understand what's going on, THEN resume work on your present project.
You've made a good start, and I wish you the best of successes. You have a long way to go, though.
You might be interested in looking at these videos of my most recent Tesla Coil, the MOT-DC coil. I need to stress, again, that these coils are _dangerous_ if not handled properly, they can shock, burn, kill, and start fires. The MOT coils are especially dangerous as the Microwave Oven Transformers are not current-limited the way NSTs are.
Design overview of the MOT-DC coil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjc9ilOAaQU
Slideshow of some sparks from the coil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTLFlRhsa5U (watch in HD)
My Slayer Exciter build:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6uQUxC7DS8
lancaIV:
I do not know the Tesla coil patent application !
My questions are :
Did Nicola Tesla refered other inventions before this in his application ?
What would Benjamin Franklins safety lightning invention become as active antenna ?
Did Mr. Tesla specific material examples ?
What is for the user priority/ what for the material : Voltage or Ampérage ?
Transformimg the lightning-flash or the lightning-thunder ?
Sincerely
OCWdL
mx1000:
--- Quote from: TinselKoala on October 31, 2013, 11:17:41 AM ---Congratulations on your first Tesla Coil project! There are some things you should know, though.
First, let me remind you that Tesla Coils can be _dangerous_ if you don't know what you are doing. You can very easily kill yourself, or get very serious burns from them. The Tesla Coil is actually a very sophisticated apparatus, even though it appears simple at first. Much work has been done by many people to find out what works, and what doesn't.
Second... I can't tell from your description and pictures whether or not your wire is insulated. Does it have enamel insulation on it or is it just bare, twisted copper as it appears? If it is NOT insulated, then of course your coil will not work. If it is insulated, then it _could_ work if other problems are taken care of. The multi-strand twisting isn't important, but is a waste of wire and money (in my opinion.) Most Tesla Coils use single-strand, enamelled copper, "magnet wire" for the secondary coil. For example my MOT-DC coil uses #27, single-enamel coated magnet wire for the secondary.
Third... the schematic you present is not correct, as well as I can figure it out. Please study some Tesla Coil schematics that you can find on the web, and look at the differences in the primary circuits. Also, neatness in the drawing helps us to understand what you are presenting, and neatness in the actual TC layout will help you, in terms of safety and ease of operation. I'm not too good at drawing schematics myself, but I always try to realize that someone else may not know how to interpret my scrawls, especially if I use non-standard symbols and terms.
Fourth: the spark gap is a critical element of a Tesla Coil, perhaps the most critical. I can tell you right away that your spark gap structure will not work very well. You need to be able to adjust the spacing, you need to deal with the heat and gases from the spark gap, you need to beware of the high voltage here. A simple 2-element gap made like yours won't work very well. Please study the spark gaps used in working coils. A good gap doesn't have to be complicated or use a motor, but it does have to be designed properly. A multi-element gap made from pieces of copper pipe can work very well and isn't much more complicated than your simple pair of screws.
Fifth... the construction of the primary coil and its supply, including the spark gap, tank capacitor and high-voltage AC source, is also critical for good performance. You need some work here as well. What do you intend to use for the primary AC voltage source? Most people building simple spark-gap Tesla Coils (SGTCs) will use a neon sign transformer (NST), rated anywhere from 6 to 15 kilovolts (6000 to 15000 volts output) at 5 to 30 milliAmps. This, in combination with the necessary capacitor, will make a VERY DANGEROUS primary circuit and you need to keep this in mind as you lay out your parts and connect them together. Any decent capacitor used in a SGTC will also hold a charge long after the power is disconnected and can easily kill you if you grab the wrong wire at the wrong time, even if the coil is unplugged and not operating.
Sixth... the topload. This can be a sphere or toroid or other smooth rounded shape. Size and smoothness are the important features here. A "coke can" isn't really going to be adequate for a coil of your dimensions. You could use steel bowls from a restaurant supply store, or you could wrap a wooden or styrofoam form with metal foil tape, or you could use shiny car hubcaps like I used in my TinselKoil 2.0, a high-power solidstate coil. I have even seen people use small tire inner tubes wrapped with aluminum duct tape or cooking foil. Any "donut" toroid or sphere shape should work as long as it has a smooth surface without sharp points or really tight curves. I've had good luck with metal clothes-dryer ducting, even though it's not particularly smooth in appearance, it seems to be electrically "smooth" enough to work. This topload is the "terminal capacitance" and works by lowering the resonant frequency of the secondary coil itself and holding charge while the voltage builds up. If you have rough surfaces or sharp points or edges here the voltage blows off as corona before it can build to a high value.
May I make a suggestion? Look up "Slayer Exciter" and build one of those first, following instructions exactly. This is a simple, low-voltage solid-state TC system that is NOT dangerous to build and operate, and will teach you a lot about construction and operation. Once you've gotten a Slayer Exciter to work, and you understand what's going on, THEN resume work on your present project.
You've made a good start, and I wish you the best of successes. You have a long way to go, though.
You might be interested in looking at these videos of my most recent Tesla Coil, the MOT-DC coil. I need to stress, again, that these coils are _dangerous_ if not handled properly, they can shock, burn, kill, and start fires. The MOT coils are especially dangerous as the Microwave Oven Transformers are not current-limited the way NSTs are.
Design overview of the MOT-DC coil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjc9ilOAaQU
Slideshow of some sparks from the coil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTLFlRhsa5U (watch in HD)
My Slayer Exciter build:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6uQUxC7DS8
--- End quote ---
The wire is insulated. Should I extra insulate it by spraying paint on it or brushing glue over it ?
And yes I know the shematic isn't 100% correct but thats because I have no PC at my 'workshop' and cba to instal printer due having to IP on my intranet (192.168.XX.12) since printer is on the other IP range.
I saw a spark gap, correct my if wrong, but I think it was you'rs in the comparsion thread with a toggleabe distance thing (yes is you'rs just looked back) http://www.overunity.com/13935/tesla-coil-build-comparison-proof-of-ability/dlattach/attach/129134/image//
Prolly gonna impost that thing once I get it somehow running.
About NST's I still need to order one, but I doubt I will do because I have more questions about the tesla coil.
And toroids I still need to order or create one, I am aware of that.
1. I don't need a tank reservoir if using modern strong capacitors right ?
2. The higher the voltage the less amps(less heating) thus more power runs trough the wires ?
3. What is the rated energy gain from transmitting to receiving (+-% if any as I understand and understood?) ?
4. As NST I can destroy a microwave and use the converter in there instead of ordering professional equipment ?
I want to replicate a tesla coil, or a tesla coil variant.
Once succes I want to focus on Sweet VTA. I couldn't find a topic here nor sub forum.
You know any topic perhaps ?
Also what can you tell about windings ? For example 1000 windings instead of 500 windings since you built multiple ?
I have so many questions but I don't know where to start. Mainly because multiple sites write multiple things.
Very hard for me to determine the best/most efficient.
You use IRC perhaps ?
And TinselKoala you're the reason I signed up.
mx1000:
--- Quote from: lancaIV on October 31, 2013, 12:54:18 PM ---I do not know the Tesla coil patent application !
My questions are :
Did Nicola Tesla refered other inventions before this in his application ?
What would Benjamin Franklins safety lightning invention become as active antenna ?
Did Mr. Tesla specific material examples ?
What is for the user priority/ what for the material : Voltage or Ampérage ?
Transformimg the lightning-flash or the lightning-thunder ?
Sincerely
OCWdL
--- End quote ---
About Tesla aswell Tesla patens;
http://www.free-energy-info.tuks.nl/P31.pdf
http://www.free-energy-info.tuks.nl/TeslaBook.pdf
http://www.free-energy-info.tuks.nl/TeslasCoil.pdf
http://www.free-energy-info.tuks.nl/TeslaPatents.html
http://www.free-energy-info.tuks.nl/TeslaTrueWireless.pdf
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/2858787/tesla_free_energy_conference/
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/2820531/don_smith_free_energy/
Insane voltage -> uber low amperage.
(if correct it goes at 1/10 ratio 100 volt 1 amp is 1000 volt 0.1 amp.)
Basicly.
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