Congratulations on your first Tesla Coil project! There are some things you should know, though.

First, let me remind you that Tesla Coils can be _dangerous_ if you don't know what you are doing. You can very easily kill yourself, or get very serious burns from them. The Tesla Coil is actually a very sophisticated apparatus, even though it appears simple at first. Much work has been done by many people to find out what works, and what doesn't.

Second... I can't tell from your description and pictures whether or not your wire is insulated. Does it have enamel insulation on it or is it just bare, twisted copper as it appears? If it is NOT insulated, then of course your coil will not work. If it is insulated, then it _could_ work if other problems are taken care of. The multi-strand twisting isn't important, but is a waste of wire and money (in my opinion.)  Most Tesla Coils use single-strand, enamelled copper, "magnet wire" for the secondary coil. For example my MOT-DC coil uses #27, single-enamel coated magnet wire for the secondary.

Third... the schematic you present is not correct, as well as I can figure it out. Please study some Tesla Coil schematics that you can find on the web, and look at the differences in the primary circuits. Also, neatness in the drawing helps us to understand what you are presenting, and neatness in the actual TC layout will help you, in terms of safety and ease of operation. I'm not too good at drawing schematics myself, but I always try to realize that someone else may not know how to interpret my scrawls, especially if I use non-standard symbols and terms.

Fourth: the spark gap is a critical element of a Tesla Coil, perhaps the most critical. I can tell you right away that your spark gap structure will not work very well. You need to be able to adjust the spacing, you need to deal with the heat and gases from the spark gap, you need to beware of the high voltage here. A simple 2-element gap made like yours won't work very well. Please study the spark gaps used in working coils. A good gap doesn't have to be complicated or use a motor, but it does have to be designed properly. A  multi-element gap made from pieces of copper pipe can work very well and isn't much more complicated than your simple pair of screws.

Fifth... the construction of the primary coil and its supply, including the spark gap, tank capacitor and high-voltage AC source, is also critical for good performance. You need some work here as well. What do you intend to use for the primary AC voltage source? Most people building simple spark-gap Tesla Coils (SGTCs) will use a neon sign transformer (NST), rated anywhere from 6 to 15 kilovolts (6000 to 15000 volts output) at 5 to 30 milliAmps. This, in combination with the necessary capacitor, will make a VERY DANGEROUS primary circuit and you need to keep this in mind as you lay out your parts and connect them together. Any decent capacitor used in a SGTC will also hold a charge long after the power is disconnected and can easily kill you if you grab the wrong wire at the wrong time, even if the coil is unplugged and not operating.

Sixth... the topload. This can be a sphere or toroid or other smooth rounded shape. Size and smoothness are the important features here. A "coke can" isn't really going to be adequate for a coil of your dimensions. You could use steel bowls from a restaurant supply store, or you could wrap a wooden or styrofoam form with metal foil tape, or you could use shiny car hubcaps like I used in my TinselKoil 2.0, a high-power solidstate coil. I have even seen people use small tire inner tubes wrapped with aluminum duct tape or cooking foil.  Any "donut" toroid or sphere shape should work as long as it has a smooth surface without sharp points or really tight curves. I've had good luck with metal clothes-dryer ducting, even though it's not particularly smooth in appearance, it seems to be electrically "smooth" enough to work.  This topload is the "terminal capacitance" and works by lowering the resonant frequency of the secondary coil itself and holding charge while the voltage builds up. If you have rough surfaces or sharp points or edges here the voltage blows off as corona before it can build to a high value.

May I make a suggestion? Look up "Slayer Exciter" and build one of those first, following instructions exactly. This is a simple, low-voltage solid-state TC system that is NOT dangerous to build and operate, and will teach you a lot about construction and operation. Once you've gotten a Slayer Exciter to work, and you understand what's going on, THEN resume work on your present project.

You've made a good start, and I wish you the best of successes. You have a long way to go, though.

You might be interested in looking at these videos of my most recent Tesla Coil, the MOT-DC coil. I need to stress, again, that these coils are _dangerous_ if not handled properly, they can shock, burn, kill, and start fires. The MOT coils are especially dangerous as the Microwave Oven Transformers are not current-limited the way NSTs are.

Design overview of the MOT-DC coil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjc9ilOAaQU
Slideshow of some sparks from the coil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTLFlRhsa5U (watch in HD)
My Slayer Exciter build:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6uQUxC7DS8

Congratulations on your first Tesla Coil project! There are some things you should know, though.

First, let me remind you that Tesla Coils can be _dangerous_ if you don't know what you are doing. You can very easily kill yourself, or get very serious burns from them. The Tesla Coil is actually a very sophisticated apparatus, even though it appears simple at first. Much work has been done by many people to find out what works, and what doesn't.

Second... I can't tell from your description and pictures whether or not your wire is insulated. Does it have enamel insulation on it or is it just bare, twisted copper as it appears? If it is NOT insulated, then of course your coil will not work. If it is insulated, then it _could_ work if other problems are taken care of. The multi-strand twisting isn't important, but is a waste of wire and money (in my opinion.)  Most Tesla Coils use single-strand, enamelled copper, "magnet wire" for the secondary coil. For example my MOT-DC coil uses #27, single-enamel coated magnet wire for the secondary.

Third... the schematic you present is not correct, as well as I can figure it out. Please study some Tesla Coil schematics that you can find on the web, and look at the differences in the primary circuits. Also, neatness in the drawing helps us to understand what you are presenting, and neatness in the actual TC layout will help you, in terms of safety and ease of operation. I'm not too good at drawing schematics myself, but I always try to realize that someone else may not know how to interpret my scrawls, especially if I use non-standard symbols and terms.

Fourth: the spark gap is a critical element of a Tesla Coil, perhaps the most critical. I can tell you right away that your spark gap structure will not work very well. You need to be able to adjust the spacing, you need to deal with the heat and gases from the spark gap, you need to beware of the high voltage here. A simple 2-element gap made like yours won't work very well. Please study the spark gaps used in working coils. A good gap doesn't have to be complicated or use a motor, but it does have to be designed properly. A  multi-element gap made from pieces of copper pipe can work very well and isn't much more complicated than your simple pair of screws.

Fifth... the construction of the primary coil and its supply, including the spark gap, tank capacitor and high-voltage AC source, is also critical for good performance. You need some work here as well. What do you intend to use for the primary AC voltage source? Most people building simple spark-gap Tesla Coils (SGTCs) will use a neon sign transformer (NST), rated anywhere from 6 to 15 kilovolts (6000 to 15000 volts output) at 5 to 30 milliAmps. This, in combination with the necessary capacitor, will make a VERY DANGEROUS primary circuit and you need to keep this in mind as you lay out your parts and connect them together. Any decent capacitor used in a SGTC will also hold a charge long after the power is disconnected and can easily kill you if you grab the wrong wire at the wrong time, even if the coil is unplugged and not operating.

Sixth... the topload. This can be a sphere or toroid or other smooth rounded shape. Size and smoothness are the important features here. A "coke can" isn't really going to be adequate for a coil of your dimensions. You could use steel bowls from a restaurant supply store, or you could wrap a wooden or styrofoam form with metal foil tape, or you could use shiny car hubcaps like I used in my TinselKoil 2.0, a high-power solidstate coil. I have even seen people use small tire inner tubes wrapped with aluminum duct tape or cooking foil.  Any "donut" toroid or sphere shape should work as long as it has a smooth surface without sharp points or really tight curves. I've had good luck with metal clothes-dryer ducting, even though it's not particularly smooth in appearance, it seems to be electrically "smooth" enough to work.  This topload is the "terminal capacitance" and works by lowering the resonant frequency of the secondary coil itself and holding charge while the voltage builds up. If you have rough surfaces or sharp points or edges here the voltage blows off as corona before it can build to a high value.

May I make a suggestion? Look up "Slayer Exciter" and build one of those first, following instructions exactly. This is a simple, low-voltage solid-state TC system that is NOT dangerous to build and operate, and will teach you a lot about construction and operation. Once you've gotten a Slayer Exciter to work, and you understand what's going on, THEN resume work on your present project.

You've made a good start, and I wish you the best of successes. You have a long way to go, though.

You might be interested in looking at these videos of my most recent Tesla Coil, the MOT-DC coil. I need to stress, again, that these coils are _dangerous_ if not handled properly, they can shock, burn, kill, and start fires. The MOT coils are especially dangerous as the Microwave Oven Transformers are not current-limited the way NSTs are.

Design overview of the MOT-DC coil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjc9ilOAaQU
Slideshow of some sparks from the coil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTLFlRhsa5U (watch in HD)
My Slayer Exciter build:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6uQUxC7DS8

The wire is insulated. Should I extra insulate it by spraying paint on it or  brushing glue over it ?

And yes I know the shematic isn't 100% correct but thats because I have no PC at my 'workshop' and cba to instal printer due having to IP on my intranet (192.168.XX.12) since printer is on the other IP range.

I saw a spark gap, correct my if wrong, but I think it was you'rs in the comparsion thread with a toggleabe distance thing (yes is you'rs just looked back) http://www.overunity.com/13935/tesla-coil-build-comparison-proof-of-ability/dlattach/attach/129134/image//
Prolly gonna impost that thing once I get it somehow running.

About NST's I still need to order one, but I doubt I will do because I have more questions about the tesla coil.
And toroids I still need to order or create one, I am aware of that.

1. I don't need a tank reservoir if using modern strong capacitors right ?
2. The higher the voltage the less amps(less heating) thus more power runs trough the wires ?
3. What is the rated energy gain from transmitting to receiving (+-% if any as I understand and understood?) ?
4. As NST I can destroy a microwave and use the converter in there instead of ordering professional equipment ?

I want to replicate a tesla coil, or a tesla coil variant.
Once succes I want to focus on Sweet VTA. I couldn't find a topic here nor sub forum.
You know any topic perhaps ?

Also what can you tell about windings ? For example 1000 windings instead of 500 windings since you built multiple ?
I have so many questions but I don't know where to start. Mainly because multiple sites write multiple things.

Very hard for me to determine the best/most efficient.
You use IRC perhaps ?

And TinselKoala you're the reason I signed up.

Thank you  mx1000 for the delivered info !


But for me it will take time to study and understand the basics and fundamentals of his meanings(original) and intentions(original,refered) ,included claims and designs !


Sincerely
              CdL

First reading : http://www.free-energy-info.tuks.nl/TeslaTrueWireless.pdf
                             (original) by Nicola Tesla :
 
                             by my words (first overview)


         tunnel-similar winded band-waves   versus Hertzian wave theory
                    air coil (tube)
                  aerial sound channel

        probably important : frequency to modulate the distance: band-gap

There will be much more to find but for this I will need paper(s) and pencil(s).
For writing and drawing and then to emphaize this.


Sincerely
              CdL


p.s.: the natural system process is horrible   complex ( see Thaddeus Cahill ) also today used by sound eng-i/e-neering /composing by syntheziser/Vocoder;
but nature took millions from years to invent hisself and we want to get it in
several days,weeks ! (offered on a golden plate ? Voyager : voyage,voyage,....)


See,read and hear( wi-hi-fi-) and feel about
                              the Art of Composing (old and modern):


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcwLDxlNKdU&list=RD02uaWrdbvhg1Q
                          1-50. ( the audio-video on the right side )
               so many buttons to variate and modulate :transmutate

                      thinking also back to the first steps:
             the Henry-telegraph machine and the Morse-Code/Alphabet


             the Tesla-telegraph machine  and the ..................................................
                                                                    encode and/or decode ti and it
         
                            make your own peer-review


                                            braingame:
                         Tesla coil  Tesla ray coil  T-ray coil         T-ray tube
                                          Tesla machine


                                Ronald Fessenden machine
http://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/originalDocument?CC=US&NR=1157094A&KC=A&FT=D&ND=3&date=19151019&DB=EPODOC&locale=en_EP       
               tube emissor and receiver  to spheric emissor and receiver


                  look for Ronald Fessenden invention collection


                  signal anglo : si(g)nal portuguese  si(g)n- or sight-seeing

Yes. Most people seem to be using a clear spray coating called "Krylon" here in the USA. I used nearly two whole cans, 10 coats or so, on my MOT-DC coil.
Good. If you try to use your gap you will quickly see why I recommend something different. A major problem with TC gaps is "power arcing", where the gases/plasma from the spark doesn't dissipate fast enough and so a continuous arc can form, rather than a sharply interrupted spark. The TC system needs a fast _shut-off_ of the spark to work properly. This is why the compressed air makes so much difference in my coil. Without the air blast, my simple 2-element sphere gap doesn't work nearly as well. I am "blowing out" the spark with the air.
Any city of reasonable size will have Neon Sign workshops, you may be able to get a used NST from your local sign shop for not much money.Sorry, what I call a "tank" is the complete circuit formed by the primary coil and the capacitor. When the spark is "on" the coil and capacitor are connected together by the spark and this forms a resonant "tank" circuit. Sometimes I refer to the capacitor in this "tank" as a reservoir, since it helps to store the energy. The inductance of the primary coil is also an energy storage. In Tesla's time high-voltage capacitors were large and expensive and even looked like "tanks" (reservoirs, not war machines!).Power is the product of voltage x current. (Watts = Volts x Amps). You can have the same power with high voltage low current, or low voltage high current. The power dissipated in the wires as heat is the product of the square of the current x the resistance of the wire. (Watts = amps² x ohms)
I don't know. In any case this will depend on many variables of construction and design and operation.
If you are talking about the expected voltage rise in the secondary coil, that can be calculated once you settle on your final design. Many builders begin with the calculations and design based on them, but I generally build first then calculate.Yes... but the Microwave Oven Transformer (MOT) is _much more dangerous_ than a NST, because it is not current-limited. It is also much harder to use in an AC Tesla coil, because it usually doesn't have the necessary voltage output. 2 or 3 kV is usual for a MOT and a normal AC TC wants a lot more voltage in the primary than that. A MOT is more of a "current source" than a voltage source. My MOT-DC coil is probably unique. Most MOT-powered coils use 2 or more in series for AC, and/or a more complicated circuit involving HV diodes like Farmhand's DC MOT coil.
 
There are some old threads on the VTA, I think, if you search. Look in the "community" tab.
The length of the secondary wire windings is the main thing that determines its resonant frequency. A Tesla Coil is a "quarter-wave resonator" with one end grounded and the other end capacitatively coupled to the rest of the world. So as a rough estimate, you can take the total length of the wire on the secondary, multiply that by 4, and then determine the frequency corresponding to that wavelength. (Frequency = 1/wavelength, with freq in Hz, wavelength in meters, time in seconds.) No, I only post in forums and on YouTube. Yes... there is certainly a _lot_ of information about Tesla Coils out there. The best is really very technical stuff.
Just ask questions as they occur to you, someone will always be around to answer them.Thanks ! And the best of luck to you. Please be careful though, especially if you think to use a MOT. It is no joke, this thing can kill you dead, and it only takes one single mistake to do it. Keep one hand in your pocket (so if you do get shocked it can't go through your chest and stop your heart) and use some insulated-handle thing to short the capacitor before working on the system, and keep a cliplead jumper across the capacitor to keep it shorted when not in use.

I might actually have NST here at workplace (trafo's in my language).
I am almost sure they aint powerfull enough.

Can I put them in series, I don't think so but just asking ?

Can you tell me how strong the capitators need to be ?
So I order them together with a NST.
(psst, maybe I can build/wind my own NST ?)

Can you also answer these questions please ? , citated from first post.
"If I understand the tesla coil properly, and what I readed (please correct me if mistaken),
It is no free energy UNLESS you use static energy with dielectric isulation and turbo amplfy it with a turbo coil or multiple coils.
But on the other side I also readed that when you have a turbo coil, and you have 1 volt @ 60 hertz, and after the coil it comes out at 1 volt 120 hertz you actually have, when splitted down, 4 volts of 60 hertz ?"

Sincerly.

What is the output voltage and current of your neon sign trafo? What makes you think they won't be powerful enough? I have one SGTC that operates on a very small NST that ouputs 6 kV at only a few milliAmps, and it works pretty well as a wireless power transmitter, even though it only makes sparks of a few inches length. 
Probably not. You can put MOTs in series if you are careful but probably not NSTs as the wiring insulation will probably break down from the increased voltage. Even three MOTs in series won't get up to the voltage of a single NST.
No, not without knowing the other parameters like the primary coil's inductance and the secondary coil's resonant frequency.
You can look at various TC calculators like this one:
http://www.classictesla.com/java/javatc/javatc.html
which actually gives you a "picture" of your coil according to the parameters you enter.No, don't even think of it. Please remember that you are dealing with high voltages that are lethal if you make some mistake. Use a commercial NST, please. Check your local sign shop, ask for a used, 15 kV 30 mA trafo, or even a smaller one for your first coil.

Have you decided not to take my advice to start out with a Slayer Exciter? OK.... you have a lot of learning ahead of you! Please don't kill yourself, I'll feel terrible if you do.

No, I can't answer those questions because I don't know what you are talking about. What is a "turbo coil"? I don't see that term used in any of the TC literature or websites I look at. All insulation is "dielectric". The other sentence, talking about splitting down 1 volt 120 Hz to 4 volts 60 Hz, makes no sense to me. Sorry, maybe someone else can help you here.

It was in one of john moray books, or I readed it on http://www.free-energy-info.tuks.nl/ somewhere in a chapter.
I have to lie here, but when I find it I will directly post it.

Anyways they/he/she stated, and that's 'common' why/how 'free energy'' works, something in this trent;

You put trough a transformer 1 volt @ 60 hertz.
When it comes out of the transformer on the other end and it is, for example, 120 hertz.

You will now have 4 volts (or 2 now I am doubting myself.) when you strip/cut down the hertz to 60.
But you only putted in 1 volt at 60 hertz.

Although this isn't as effective as it looks/seems/reads because you most likely will use hot current from the wall.

Therefore you need (extreme?) thick windings as well alot of windings which isn't making it interesting.
Not to mention the thermal loss. Any convert of 'energy' source which comes with heath production isn't effective.

I really hope I made myself understandable for you, and I will come back with a quote as well link where I readed it.

             "My Tesla Coil" completing : "My Tesla Coil Body"
                    Look for: Biophotones research !


  Scientifical Question : No existance from Biophonons ?




                                  Man-Machine to
                                Men-Machine (fe-/male)


                           Men re-/de-/ in-sonate Machine
                           Machine re-/de-/in-sonate Men


  mx1000 : you make faults in your writings, do not such faults by your ion-sphere
                                              re-/search ! 


                           I assign triffids warnings ! Be carefull !     


I never did directly transformer and coil potential exploration cause I worked with an technician "who learned by doing, over 40 years" to recognize the dangers and consequences in a transformer production company :
Campos & Cardoso,Porto/Portugal  .


   Andrew Carnegie: Giving the tools to the right man ( completing : or wife)


Sincerely
              CdL

Besides you say that I have typo's, of which I am aware, and that transformers are very dangerous (which is obvious).

But the rest, is a riddle/puzzle for me ?
I don't understand the rest, the intention of it ?