I did try build it today and failed.
One coil wire was broken accidently during disassembling.

Should I throw away the original circuit in the fan?
I watched the video several times, didn't see where the original circuit put back.
 

This happened to me too but I manage to rewind the fan. A little courage and patience and you do it. Rewind the coil clockwise than anti clockwise.
My problem is that the batteries are not holding charge for long time but it's a nice project anyway.
Thanks to Imhotep and Bedini.

How did you test the rewind fan?
I checked the resistance of coils: Trigger and Power - both were 139 Ohm. When I hooked up either coil with battery, the fan got magnetized and did not run freely.

I used 1N4001 dioide and TIP102 Transistor today which I bought for another Bedini project. The system wouldn't run at all.

I might get the exact components and will try again.

Hello Imhotep and All:

One user mentioned the motor not functioning after the modification. I'm looking at the coils from this 120mm fan, and see some unusual stuff, and am wondering if you could shed some light on this. With the posts facing you, with the missing post in the 12 o'clock position, going clockwise. The coil with the missing post has one wire going to the inner windings from one side, and one wire coming out of the inner windings on the other side. The 3 O'clock post has one wire going to the inner from the 12 O'clock post, and 2 coming out of the other side - one of those two appears to be coming from the post. The other is coming from the inner. The post has a second wire coming from the outer. At the 6 O'clock position, the two wires from the 3 O'clock post are going into the inner of one side, however there are 3 wires coming out the other side - one is from the post and get this: it's reverse-wound. All 3 wires go to the inner windings of the 9 O'clock coil. At the 9 O'clock position, one wire comes from the outer and goes to the post, then 1 wire comes from the inner windings and goes to the 12 O'clock post.

So a hunch of what happened with the guy who magnetized the motor - I think what happened in his case (and what might happen on mine if I'm not careful), is instead of having two opposing coils act as drive, and the other two being generators, he has two adjacent coils as drive, and two adjacent as generators. If this is the case, when powered up, the fan would resist turning, and the device won't function properly.

MightyLance

Hello to all.

So i also started with bedini motor replication.

I have replicated Imothep bedini circuit with 80 mm computer fan.
It worked, fan is rotating and it's giving out about 80 V spikes, depending on position of that potentiometer.
Then it all get very interesting. I try to connect another 120 mm pc fan parallel to the first fan and it partially works,  it  only rotates bigger 120 cm fan when spun by hand.
So i try manualy by hand to spin other smaller one but no luck.
After few minutes of adjusting potentiometer and manual rotating smaller fan it started to spin synced with bigger one
I was getting around 130 V spikes from these two.
Now because i dont have osciloscope i connected 200 v 470 uF capacitor to output and i would measure top voltage after some time of charging it.
that way i can see spike height in circuit.

Now one thing to consider, if you have good ears when these fans rotate you can hear high pitch noise coming from them as they rotate. Noise is not constant it pulses with rotation as one short pulse on every revolution of fan blades.
I considered that odd because it did not make that noise if i run these fans on regular power.
Then happened something very interesting.
out of the blue it all stopped working. so i try to spin smaller fan by hand again, and as i spun it i hear that pitch pulses much louder.
When it stopped the pitch noise was constant  no pulsing and i get on output 130 v spikes and either fan was not running!!
Then i scratching my head and wondering what happened. As i was inspecting my circuit i found that one wire that was going from 120 mm  fan is disconnected the one that was going to the potentiometer. It must broke loose because of bad soldering.
If i reconnect it back pitch noise disappear and circuit stops working until i spin larger fan and then it starts pulsing noise and gives out spikes as normal.
If i turn off power to the circuit and disconnect that wire then put power back on it does not start until i turn smaller fan just a little about half revolution. Then it starts that pitch noise and gives out spikes at output.
I think that i managed to get it working in solid state with two computer fans.

If are anyone interested in this i can make video of my setup and offer help to replicate this.

Sry for my english

Hello
thanks for reply.

Interesting thing is that pitch noise shift as i jently move fan blades.
when i rotate it for about 30 degrees it gives out a little stronger spikes.

I dont have osciloscope but have obtained multimeter that measures frequency.
So this are the specs i have with this circuit:


one wire disconnected as explained in previous post.
with nothing connected at output:
Input voltage: 12V
Potentiometer setting:
Potentiometer range 0-900 ohm
max setting 900 ohm, input current: around 135 mA, output freq around 100 KHz
At min setting 0 ohm circuit draws 184 mA and output has 140 Khz

Info about power supply:
Standard AC to DC utility adapter
model: PLIU-1077
output: 12 VDC 1.25A

Connected capacitor at output 470uF 200V:
potentiometer at max 900 ohm, input current 137 - 134 mA it draws less as cap nears peak value, charged capacitor to 100 V in 31 sec.  Max peak cap value is 112.8 V and gets there in 05m:07s
potentiometer at min 0 ohm, input current 178 -172 mA range because above explanation , charged capacitor to 30V in 9 sec, max peak cap value is 34.1V and gets there in around 11m:00s

After all this tests transistor did not get even warm.
Both fans did not rotatate during above tests.

Repeating above tests but with 4th wire connected.
power supply is the same
connected capacitor at the output is the same

potentiometer at max 900 ohm,  neither fans wont work even when manual moved by hand, to run them on this resistance i firstly must decrease resistance to 300 ohm start larger fan by hand and then run smaller fan by hand, after that i increase resistance to max which is 900 ohm and they work then.

potentiometer at 900 ohm, input current 91-98mA, charged capacitor to 100V in 49s, max peak cap value i 136.1 V and gets there in 11m:50s
potentiometer at 0 ohm, input current is around 180 mA, charged capacitor to 10V in 1m:10s, max peak cap value is 11V and gets  there in 7m:38s

I will do more tests with 80mm fan and 120 mm individualy tomorrow.

a.king21 if you have some ideas how to check for unity or overunity please tell me.

 Hello made some additional tests today.
first, a.king21
Hmm interesting remarks.
i have few ideas that could work with static shielding.
What you say that i try with pigtail cables as standard conductors that i use in wireless technology. They are designed to work from 2.4 to 5.8 GHz
Only question remains where to connect pigtail shielding from all the wires (maybe - polarity of output bat)
That design would minimize high frequency dissipation from wires.

Now to my tests:

I used same power supply 12v
one wire disconnected that goes from 120mm fan to pot
Removed fan blades that have permanent magnets on them
circuit still works and giving out better spikes than with fan blades on
First i did measurements of freq without anything connected at output.
pot at max 900 ohm, current draw is 140 mA, freq is around 132 Khz
pot at min 0 ohm, current draw is 190 mA, freq is around 154 Khz

Then i connected cap 200 v 470 uF at output to measure charging speed.
pot at 900 ohm, current draw 146 mA, it charges cap to 100 V in 15 s (100% faster than when blades are on), peak value is 130.1 V and it gets there in around 10m:00s
pot at 0 ohm, current draw is 188 mA, it charges cap to 30 V in 5 s, peak value is 36 V and it gets there in 8m:10s
 
pictures of my design: