GDPR and DSGVO law

Storing Cookies (See : http://ec.europa.eu/ipg/basics/legal/cookies/index_en.htm ) help us to bring you our services at overunity.com . If you use this website and our services you declare yourself okay with using cookies .More Infos here:
https://overunity.com/5553/privacy-policy/
If you do not agree with storing cookies, please LEAVE this website now. From the 25th of May 2018, every existing user has to accept the GDPR agreement at first login. If a user is unwilling to accept the GDPR, he should email us and request to erase his account. Many thanks for your understanding.
Amazon Warehouse Deals ! Now even more Deep Discounts ! Check out these great prices on slightly used or just opened once only items.I always buy my gadgets via these great Warehouse deals ! Highly recommended ! Many thanks for supporting OverUnity.com this way.

User Menu

Powerbox

Smartbox

3D Solar

3D Solar Panels

DC2DC converter

Micro JouleThief

FireMatch

FireMatch

CCKnife

CCKnife

CCTool

CCTool

Magpi Magazine

Magpi Magazine Free Rasberry Pi Magazine

Battery Recondition

Battery Recondition

Arduino

Ultracaps

YT Subscribe

Gravity Machines

Tesla-Ebook

Magnet Secrets

Lindemann Video

Navigation

Products

Products

WaterMotor kit

Statistics

  • *Total Members: 82498
  • *Latest: Pozeidon

  • *Total Posts: 497545
  • *Total Topics: 14727
  • *Online Today: 44
  • *Most Online: 103
(December 19, 2006, 11:27:19 PM)
  • *Users: 8
  • *Guests: 32
  • *Total: 40

Author Topic: Lynx Joule Inverter  (Read 101544 times)

Offline Magluvin

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5738
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #30 on: December 02, 2012, 04:26:49 AM »
Its a strange circuit. I copied it below.

The LNK IC is initially physically connected to the neg of the input caps shown in green circles. B+ cant pass through the diode in the orange circle. So the initial startup B+ for the LNK chip must be via the path of the arrows I drew in, through the inductor and the 100uf cap, via pin D of the LNK

It might not take much more than 12v to fire these things up. The 100uf cap is 16v, so Im assuming that the output to the led bank, through R 9current limiter) at the far right, is around 12V. The led bank is set up to take on the 12v/3 each.

I have not gotten a bulb yet. Have you tried to apply say 24v to the bulb directly? 

Mags

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #30 on: December 02, 2012, 04:26:49 AM »

Offline Lynxsteam

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #31 on: December 02, 2012, 05:00:24 AM »
Using 24 volts directly to the bulb you get one bright flash.  24 volts through the transformer you get a nice bright steady light.  Remember, you will see somewhere between 160-1000 hz on the hz meter through the transformer using DC.
The solar panels on the back of my house are tied into a 24 volt battery bank so this is very convenient for me to set up LED lights using this system.  My garage and front yard are lit by the LJL system because the solar panel on that side is 12 volts, and I have a little wind turbine for 12 volts as well.

Offline Groundloop

  • Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1738
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #32 on: December 02, 2012, 09:33:32 AM »
Its a strange circuit. I copied it below.

The LNK IC is initially physically connected to the neg of the input caps shown in green circles. B+ cant pass through the diode in the orange circle. So the initial startup B+ for the LNK chip must be via the path of the arrows I drew in, through the inductor and the 100uf cap, via pin D of the LNK

It might not take much more than 12v to fire these things up. The 100uf cap is 16v, so Im assuming that the output to the led bank, through R 9current limiter) at the far right, is around 12V. The led bank is set up to take on the 12v/3 each.

I have not gotten a bulb yet. Have you tried to apply say 24v to the bulb directly? 

Mags

Magluvin,

I'm not sure what your question is, but you must study the data sheet for the LinkSwitch IC to understand how this circuit works.

The LinkSwitch IC is powered through the Drain pin in the posted circuit because it is a low side switch. At each switch on, the IC
is powered by the charge stored in the 100nF capacitor. So the initial energy to power the IC goes from the positive rail through
the LEDS, through the R (and the internal LED in the EL817), through the 1mH coil and to the drain pin. The internal (in the IC) voltage
regulator has an output pin where the 100nF is connected to give the IC energy when the drain to source is conducting current,
thus the input voltage is removed from the drain pin, so that the IC is running until it switches is off again. The LinkSwitch IC is a very
versatile IC that can be used in many configurations. One useful configuration is a a power supply for low voltage, eg. 12 Volt,
from a very high input AC voltage, eg. mains.

Tests I have done with my 230VAC OSRAM 3 Watt LED lamp shows me that my lamp starts to light dimly at approx. 31 Volt DC input.

GL.

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #32 on: December 02, 2012, 09:33:32 AM »
Sponsored links:




Offline Magluvin

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5738
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #33 on: December 02, 2012, 05:32:52 PM »
Thanks GL. Makes sense. ;)

Didnt think of the + coming from or through the load.

Mags

Offline TinselKoala

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13695
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #34 on: December 02, 2012, 11:56:08 PM »
And it looks like the LEDs are actually "running" off of the charge that is pumped into the 100uF cap on the right, dribbled out to them in pulses by the chip?

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #34 on: December 02, 2012, 11:56:08 PM »
Sponsored links:




Offline gyulasun

  • without_ads
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3608
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #35 on: December 03, 2012, 01:13:39 AM »
And it looks like the LEDs are actually "running" off of the charge that is pumped into the 100uF cap on the right, dribbled out to them in pulses by the chip?

Yes and  the 100uF cap is charged up from the collapsing field of the 1mH coil via the diode UF4005.  Pin 5, the open Drain of the chip is at negative ground when the inner MOSFET switch is ON, this pumps energy into the 1mH and when the switch is OFF the the cap can receive the collapsed juice.

Offline NickZ

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4095
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #36 on: December 03, 2012, 01:29:22 AM »
    Lynxsteam:
   I do have some Led bulbs (110v) and have combined them with also lighting the Cfls, or the  round Halo bulbs as well as other types of flourescents, and even the 60 watt incandescents.

  The led bulbs, as well as the ungutted Cfls, can easily burn out their internal circuit if the Ringer's secondary coil output is TOO HIGH. 
  Still looking for the perfect circuit to fully light the Cfls to full brightness, or close to it, without burning out the transistors.

   Your cross over circuit video was very interesting.  I'm still working on that one. Fourth day now, and the led indicator is still lit, on 1/4 to 1/2 volt, and about 300 mAs. If the on/off switch is turned off, the voltage climbs back the the starting voltage of  1.150 volts.  I'm still tuning it with different caps, etz... Once I get the best results, I'll change back to the 12v solar input, and a 12v battery as a source.
  I ran the cross over circuit off my solar panels today, but the 1.5v input battery and cap remained at 1/2 volt, and did not charge up,  while lighting the circuits's indicator led.
For some reason the addition of solar panel's input did not change or charge up the 1.5v D cell  battery or cap voltage. Even though the solar input source was 36 volts.

  Here are a few pics of one of my versions of the Ringer 3.0 on a 3 coil ferrite yoke, (with two secondary coils), that can be used together in series, or apart, as a second output source.
   


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #36 on: December 03, 2012, 01:29:22 AM »
Sponsored links:




Offline Lynxsteam

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #37 on: December 03, 2012, 02:12:30 AM »
I abandoned my work with the crossover after for no apparent reason burning up two 2N2222.  No change, they just decided to fry.  I didn't see anything at all magnificent with that circuit.  I will leave that one to others to explore.  My main interest is practical lighting with few parts, reliable, and simple.  That is the reason for this thread.  To show people how easy and practical it is to run 120 v LED non-dimmable bulbs from 12-24 volts at low ma draw.  I am sure people will find interesting uses for the secondary.

Nick, you will find the right combination of parts to light your CFLs.  I know I had my best luck with the 3.0 version (collector connection) of the LJL, 15:1 ratio and heavy gauge well insulated primary.  You should be able to safely run 5 amps through the 2N3055 at 12 volts.  I prefer keeping amps below 3.  That means you are restricted to about two CFLs per transistor.  You can parallel the 2N3055 if you link the bases with a 1 Ohm resistor.  I have a large aircore with this setup and it will power a lot of lights.  Each 2N3055 is good for 60 watts.

Back to the Lynx Joule Inverter circuit, I tried many transformers and coils to light these bulbs another way.  One larger RadioShack transformer will run these just off the primary.  The others wont do.  A slide switch is best for on off to help the circuit start up.  If you just get a blinking bulb, strike the connection to get it to light or just leave it and it will fire up in a second or two.  Each bulb is a little different.


Offline NickZ

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4095
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #38 on: December 03, 2012, 07:23:20 PM »
    Lynx:
    In order to get back on the program...  To make your Inverter system, using my ferrite core transformer (below).
    In order to use this ferrite yoke (below), which now also has a 20 turn primary of about 14 gauge  insulated wire wound on top of one of the two secondary coils:
I would connect one end of the primary coil to battery +, and the other end of the primary coil goes to one end of the secondary coils, then continue to connect it the second secondary coil. Then, the end of the second secondary coil goes to the bulb, and after the bulb it goes back to the battery - negative terminal.
  Correct???
                       NickZ

   


Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #38 on: December 03, 2012, 07:23:20 PM »
3D Solar Panels

Offline Lynxsteam

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #39 on: December 03, 2012, 08:01:07 PM »
First, I wouldn't waste a nice Torroid on this simple circuit.  But for just playing around and experimenting its fine.  On page two of this thread there are two schematics.  You can pick either.  You have picked one correctly.  My favorite is having the bulb between primary and secondary.

You can also just try the primary only, or secondary only.  Some transformers will work this way, some wont.  Steel laminate cores work well.  Ferrite cores are brighter and consume more power.  Keep in mind this will only work on bulbs marked non-dimmable.  You wont hurt anything in a dimmable bulb, it just wont work.  You wont hurt the transformer because the bulbs don't pull that much power.  I suppose if you shorted out the secondary for awhile that wouldn't be good.  If you see a big spark and no light you probably have shorted your transformer.  Momentarily no big deal.
I would look around and see if in your parts bin you might have a transformer. 
Once you get how easy this is, start looking for a nice balance between brightness and low ma draw. 

This circuit is voltage linear.  The higher the voltage the higher the amp draw the higher the brightness.  So if you want to, you can try a pot that can handle 5 watts and see how you can dim this non-dimmable bulb.  You can turn it down to candle light or up as far as the transformer will allow.

Offline Lynxsteam

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #40 on: December 03, 2012, 11:09:52 PM »
Got the draw down to 8 ma on a 12 volt battery using the off the shelf RadioShack 450 ma transformer.  I will try a variable resistor this evening to see "how low we can go"

Free Energy | searching for free energy and discussing free energy

Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #40 on: December 03, 2012, 11:09:52 PM »
3D Solar Panels

Offline b_rads

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 203
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #41 on: December 03, 2012, 11:39:39 PM »
Lynxsteam:
Checked online and my local Home Depot has 2 of the Phillips 3w non dimmable LED's.  Will pick those up this evening.  I did try FEIT and LG bulbs and they did not work.  I have the 450ma transformer you mentioned plus several others I can try.  On post number #4 you show 2 circuits, do you have a preference for the right or left circuit.  I will try both for comparison.  Thanks for the cool discovery, I will let you know if I can get it to work.  Thanks again,
Brad S

Offline Lynxsteam

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #42 on: December 04, 2012, 01:34:56 AM »
Nice to see your post Brad,

Here is a video showing what you can do with a 5k potentiometer.  These non dimming bulbs can be dimmed right down to nothing.  2 ma and there is still a visible light.  5 ma is like a small candle.  Running on 24 volts pushes these bulbs nicely.

I don't know what typical solar lights pull but I bet its more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7u5yL4F-_T0

Offline Lynxsteam

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 172
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #43 on: December 04, 2012, 11:21:46 PM »
I don't know if people are pulling my leg asking for a schematic but here it is :)


Offline b_rads

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 203
Re: Lynx Joule Inverter
« Reply #44 on: December 05, 2012, 08:21:34 PM »
@Lynxsteam;
 :-[  I need help, I know your circuit looks as simple as it get but, I have not been able to get the bulb to light.  I am using the RS transformer and Phillips 3w fan bulb (non-dimmable).  I have introduced 15vdc on the input and read 32vac on the bulb end.  Pushing 30vdc I get about 65vac on the bulb and still does not light.  Is it possible Phillips may have changed internal circutry on this bulb?  Any suggestions?
Brad S

 

OneLink