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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY  (Read 11718058 times)

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21240 on: May 20, 2019, 03:47:24 PM »
Thanks for the videos URFA. Your meter is reading a constant average current of 0.2A / 0.1A at 12V. Your output pulse by comparison is extremely short in time at an unknown width or peak voltage level. Do you have any scope shots of the waveform to determine energy dissipated by bulb for a comparison with total input energy over a given period of time? Without this assessment, we cannot know whether what you demonstrate shows anything more interesting than just a flashing bulb.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21241 on: May 20, 2019, 03:49:02 PM »
   Urfa:   Thanks again for your video. But, what happens if the input voltage and amperage is higher? Like 24v, and 6 amps, or so?
Will the light be more constant?
   Do you have any of the 1000-2000v WIMA caps. They aren't cheap, but the price has dropped some compared to a couple of years ago, as they used to cost almost $30 each. Do you have a 24v power supply for the feed back circuit? Once the feed back circuit is connected up it will take up a lot of the device's output to run, besides the load from the bulb(s). So the flashing bulbs need to be solidly on, first, for anything like self running to happen.

forest

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21242 on: May 20, 2019, 03:49:22 PM »
can you test with a 100W or even more Watts bulb ?

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21243 on: May 20, 2019, 03:59:52 PM »
   Good point Forest.   However, my simple Kacher circuit by itself can light a 50w or higher bulb without flashing. So, the flashing demonstration does not really show that much. But, I use a higher input, 24v. The important part is what will the device do with a feed back circuit connected. Most of the guys here have not even tried to incorporate the feed back circuit, as yet. Which to me has been the hardest part of all to get to work properly, so far.

AlienGrey

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21244 on: May 20, 2019, 05:52:04 PM »
   Good point Forest.   However, my simple Kacher circuit by itself can light a 50w or higher bulb without flashing. So, the flashing demonstration does not really show that much. But, I use a higher input, 24v. The important part is what will the device do with a feed back circuit connected. Most of the guys here have not even tried to incorporate the feed back circuit, as yet. Which to me has been the hardest part of all to get to work properly, so far.
Nick!, the Ruslan circuit on the yoke DID YOU GET YOUR 90 DEG PHASE SHIFT SECTION WORKING properly ??

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21245 on: May 21, 2019, 12:26:20 AM »
  NO,  did you.?

AlienGrey

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21246 on: May 21, 2019, 01:18:09 AM »
  NO,  did you.?
no, It's not an easy task as the maths would be different as the 'yoke' becomes the signal generator and its impedance is any ones guess, one way might be to inject the SG into the 494 and look for it on the scope.
Anyone any idea's?

nelsonrochaa

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21247 on: May 21, 2019, 12:12:38 PM »
In my previous experiments the amount of time required to charge capacitors with high frequency was not very promising. It took at least 10+ seconds to charge few micro-farads capacitor up to few hundred volts from the power source around 5-20W.
Unless you draw in ambient energy somehow the energy spent is still more than energy harvested from capacitor. For the pulse yes, you can get hundreds of amps for fraction of second. But the second cycle will still take much more time to get capacitor charge up to same level.

Cheers!


Hi T1000 , you say that during your tests to take around 5 at 20W to fill a capacitors with some hundred volts ,  I really dont understand in what conditions you made your test , but i assure to you  that something is wrong in the choice or tune of your circuit . Did you use Polarized capacitors or electrolitic capacitors ?
I could demonstra-te easily with a simple  100 miliwats (0.01A X 10) without increase input , fill a capacitor with some microfarards with around 200v very fast .
You must "blind" the input otherwize is just amp you are use to charge the capacitor :)  you need the input not increase , and the output should have a auto ajustable impedance .
I will show a test circuit showing  this :

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Cr9rdQCbCH6NXsay5
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGZnUJBcDzxCU4ZA6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YpunGcArdAUnK3f7A

cheers



AlienGrey

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21248 on: May 21, 2019, 02:33:38 PM »
Thanks, Nelson it's a great invention, No offense but why don't you claim some financial help from the thread talk to Chet or Stephan or Wesley. Just a thought.
AG

T-1000

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21249 on: May 21, 2019, 02:43:18 PM »

Hi T1000 , you say that during your tests to take around 5 at 20W to fill a capacitors with some hundred volts ,  I really dont understand in what conditions you made your test , but i assure to you  that something is wrong in the choice or tune of your circuit . Did you use Polarized capacitors or electrolitic capacitors ?
Hi Nelson,
It was been a while.. Nice to see you're back on forum. :)
My tests was old ones few years back with electrolytic capacitors. Also tried with similar capacitors to motor start type.
Just wonder how long it would take you to charge 20uF motor starter cap up to 300V with 100 miliwats input on that circuit?

Cheers!

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21250 on: May 21, 2019, 03:29:24 PM »
   Quote from Gyula:


"Hi AG,

Coil 7.4 mH gives (a parallel) resonance at 14.81 kHz with C1= 15.6 nF

Coil 220 uH gives (a series) resonance at 11 kHz   with C2= 940 nF   Do you have an L meter to check the coils? it would greatly help tuning.

The 138 uH coil which terminates the 220 uH-C2 series circuit would detune the (series) resonance from the present 11 kHz towards 8.6 kHz. It is very likely that you would need to detune one of these two LC circuits from the other by a certain amount to arrive at the 90 degree phase shift  but with these component values the frequencies seem to be too far from each other already.

If the goal frequency for the LC circuit of 7.4 mH-15.6 nF is say 18.73 kHz, then first remove C2 and tune 7.4 mH-C1 circuit for 18.73 kHz. To see this tuning, connect a scope probe across the 220 uH coil (it will serve as a coupling coil for this check) so you should see a sine wave and check the frequency.

Then connect back C2 and try to tune the 220 uH - 940 nF circuit towards this goal frequency too. with considering the frequency lowering effect of the 138 uH coil. This time for this tuning to see it and bring this resonance close to 18.73 kHz, connect the scope probe across the 138 uH coil and change the number of turns of the 220 uH coil (or the cap value of the 940 nF).  A few kHz difference from 18.7 kHz is ok I think either down or up (because the needed phase shift will change that I think).

I assume that all the coils and other components are present in your actual setup as per the schematic so that any frequency detuning effect is included during these tuning attempts. 

Now, if you manage to do these two tuning steps, then leave the probe across the 138 uH coil and connect a 2nd scope probe across C1. IT is very likely that the ground clip connection of this 2nd probe may cause detuning in itself,  I do not know,  but if the the 90 degree phase shift is needed between the two 18.73 kHz outputs, then somehow a means should be found to check it and adjust it. So if the connection of the 2nd probe ground to any side of C1 drastically changes the previous tuning, then this phase shift check method of using two scope probes cannot be used of course.
Maybe you already have arrived up to this situation?

ADDITION:  a better placement of the two scope ground clips would seem to be the common point of C1 and C2 when checking the 90 degree shift I think".   


Gyula

gyulasun

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21251 on: May 21, 2019, 03:35:23 PM »
Hi Nick,
I just made an additional sentence to the end of that post, you may wish to copy that too.
Of course, my comments are but a general approach to a given circuit situation, may or may not fully be useful...   8)
Gyula

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21252 on: May 21, 2019, 03:42:25 PM »
   The above answer from Gyula may be the reason that I've never seen any type of phase shift.   
   Who says that a phase shift is what's called for, anyway?

   You have to take into account what the feed back circuit is also going to do to all that fine tuning, once you incorporate the looping feed back circuit. Things will change, and yes, the scope probes connections DO affect the overall tuning, and output at the bulbs. I have shown that effect in one of my videos. That is why it's so hard to actually get this contraption tuned right. All circuits need to be connected up to tune this device properly, including the feed back part. And also remember that placing different wattage bulbs can also affect the tuning.

gyulasun

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21253 on: May 21, 2019, 03:47:57 PM »

Nick, it is a good question...  for I never dig into this circuit and AlienGray asked from me on a possible adjustment for
the 90 degree phase shift between the two low frequency output signals.

This is the sentence what I added to the end of my post in the other thread: 

"ADDITION:  a better placement of the two scope ground clips would seem to be the common point of C1 and C2 when checking the 90 degree shift I think. " 

Gyula 




gyulasun

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #21254 on: May 21, 2019, 04:04:22 PM »
Hi Nick,
I suggest to delete the full content of your above post in which you quoted my post, and
then repeat the copy and paste again in the same post, so that the full text should appear only once.
To do this, click on the Modify icon of that post and highlight the total content  and delete it.Then copy and paste again my text from the other thread.

Gyula