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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY  (Read 11715662 times)

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19530 on: April 21, 2018, 05:07:09 PM »
   Hoppy:
  The NTC is ok.
  Just trying to find a fuse to replace the small T5A brown one that burnt out.
  I'll know more later today. What tripped me up, was that there was still some voltage at the caps, and at the mosfet, even with a partially blown fuse. That's why I thought that the fuse was ok, but it wasn't.
  I wish that the T5A had blown before it messed up the caps, and who knows what else.
But, I saw a spark under that fuse, (it totally blew afterwards). But, that happened after I had replaced the caps, and not before the damage. That fuse was too slow, (it's a slow T-type of fuse).
Probably needs an quicker F fuse, instead.

  Sorry apecore for the off topic discussions. But, you'll probably see that once you connect up a feed back circuit, that fixing a burnt PS, won't be off topic at all. Dally went through a couple of burnt up PS, before finding one that worked.
  I think that a 110v- 220v PS is what's needed. And NOT the 110v PS, like the one I'm using now. Live and learn...

Nick,

The T-type fuse is there for a good reason. A correct rated quick blow fuse will likely rupture on the current surge when the big caps initially charge-up from empty. Replace it with the proper type and rated fuse. As I mentioned earlier, you can progress the repair by temporarily using a thin bit of fuse wire, or a thin strand from a stranded hookup type wire or similar but make sure the bulb is in circuit.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19531 on: April 23, 2018, 06:10:29 PM »
Nick,

The T-type fuse is there for a good reason. A correct rated quick blow fuse will likely rupture on the current surge when the big caps initially charge-up from empty. Replace it with the proper type and rated fuse. As I mentioned earlier, you can progress the repair by temporarily using a thin bit of fuse wire, or a thin strand from a stranded hookup type wire or similar but make sure the bulb is in circuit.


   Hoppy:
   I've now replaced the brown fuse for one out of my older PS, which is a T3, for now.
But, it seams like there is no return path through to the ground side.  Any ideas...
 
  EDIT: ok, I just found that it's the bulb socket that won't allow a 50w bulb to screw in all the way. I could get a 25w bulb to light in that socket though. So, I'll see if now I can get the 120v through the 25w bulb to the PS, and see IF the PS works now.

   So, here's a little video for Hoppy, AG, and all.
    https://youtu.be/Ojomw4e0FWA

               

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19532 on: April 24, 2018, 09:01:52 AM »
Thanks for the video Nick. Looks good to go but check that the 12V / 24V switchable output voltages are correct.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19533 on: April 24, 2018, 03:13:09 PM »
   Hoppy:
   Yes, everything works. I have 24.2v output, again. I also connected this fixed PS to run my device, and all is good to go.
   Now it's back to where I was at when that happened.
   I have a feeling that this kind of thing may happen again, so it's good to know how to deal with it in the future.
It was worth the effort to learn just how to fix these PS.
   Thanks again for your help.
                                            NickZ

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19534 on: April 24, 2018, 08:44:16 PM »
Nick,

Its likely that the damage to your PSU was caused by disconnecting the output bulbs, resulting in a sudden increase in voltage input to the feedback PSU. Make sure you have a permanently connected load at all times when testing. The bulb wattage for the permanent load should be chosen to ensure that the voltage across it always stays within the rated input of the feedback PSU. The main supply battery will only present a load to the feedback PSU when its terminal voltage falls below the PSU output voltage.

AlienGrey

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19535 on: April 25, 2018, 11:58:26 AM »
Nick,

Its likely that the damage to your PSU was caused by disconnecting the output bulbs, resulting in a sudden increase in voltage input to the feedback PSU. Make sure you have a permanently connected load at all times when testing. The bulb wattage for the permanent load should be chosen to ensure that the voltage across it always stays within the rated input of the feedback PSU. The main supply battery will only present a load to the feedback PSU when its terminal voltage falls below the PSU output voltage.
It's usually only the self oscillating cheep'o devices from china that stall and blow the driver's (but a good few I have running here, and are as much as 7 or 8 years in the running, any duds I would put in my 'rubbish bin', but it's plain and simple over voltage on the input and or over heating or caps drying out! that destroys them, but always replace caps with 105 c variate.


Now let's look at the Henry Morey device !  come on   let's have a look at it !  ::)
this is a circuit of the device.

Any one see the similarity ? the magic looks to be the input frequency ? and sustaining it! How did he find it ?

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/19/81/34/1a05c66cb4c369/US2460707.pdf

« Last Edit: April 25, 2018, 07:03:26 PM by AlienGrey »

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19536 on: April 25, 2018, 01:22:28 PM »
It's usually only the self oscillating cheep'o devices from china that stall and blow the driver's (but a good few I have running here are as much as 7 or 8 years running, I would put my 'rubbish bin' on a plain and simple over voltage on the input and or over heating or caps drying out!.....


Given that's Nick's PSU was new and given that its most unusual that these cheapo PSU's are used in these type of FE contraptions generating very high voltages, then its most likely that high voltage caused the damage. C'mon Alien, ruling out reverse polarity in Nick's case, other than over voltage, how else could the tops blow off both new caps and spew out their contents all over the PCB!

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19537 on: April 25, 2018, 03:46:27 PM »
   I think that what may have happened was that I was trying to get the feed back PS to produce a steady output signal at the green led indicator. And not just blinking, which means that the PS is NOT getting a proper input into it.
At first I had a hard time getting that to happen, with any load of bulbs on, except for a small 10w bulb. A 100w bulb would not allow the PS to obtain it's needed input.
But, then I found that the smaller 0.1uf WIMA cap at the grenade's output, had blown, and so I replaced it. At that point I was getting much higher output from the grenade. And following what Ruslan and other guys do when they start their device, I turned the device on, first, then afterwards I turned on the bulb load. This caused over 310v to go into the feed back PS, and you know the results.
  Why that does not happen to Ruslan's device, is still unknown to me. And why they do that, is also not clear to me. 
But, keeping in mind that my particular PS is only a 120v one, that may be the reason why this happened to me.
So, I advice the rest of the guys here to not buy that type of PS, and get the 110v-220v, instead. So, learn from my mistakes, and buy the right 220v PS. Even if you like me, live where 110v is the norm, and are using 120v bulbs.
I blew out 3 different bulbs, even before this happened, after I changed the WIMA 0.1uf cap, and before I killed the PS.
I am glad to be able to fix the PS, in any case. Which I had brought to me from the US, and which are not available locally here.

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19538 on: April 25, 2018, 04:41:17 PM »
Nick,

Ruslan and the other guys may have used a 240V PSU which use caps with a higher voltage rating, typically 400V. Experimenting with this type of device calls for careful attention to component voltage ratings. However, even with a 240V PSU, its unlikely that you will be able to drive it with the heavy device bulb loading you require, without the PSU becoming under voltaged when looped back to the main battery. As we have established, there is much missing from the information so far posted in the schematics etc for a self-runner.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19539 on: April 25, 2018, 05:56:37 PM »
    Hoppy:
   The 240v caps that I replaced on my PS came out of my previous 120v- 240v PS.  They are the same value caps that came on my 120v PS. The 240v unit's caps are not higher in value, but are the same value.

  Itsu:  How is it possible to see both the HV and the grenade output BOTH on the same scope setting?
First image of Stalker's scope shot.
  Is this something that I can do on my scope? Or not?
  This is what I can do on my scope. Second image.
  I understand that Stalker is using a controllable Kacher circuit, and I am using the simple Kacher circuit.
But, I'd like to be able to see both HV, and grenade outputs, (to match both frequencies at the same time). Which I have not been able to do, like Stalker is showing.

 

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19540 on: April 25, 2018, 06:19:15 PM »
    Hoppy:
   The 240v caps that I replaced on my PS came out of my previous 120v- 240v PS.  They are the same value caps that came on my 120v PS. The 240v unit's caps are not higher in value, but are the same value.

The caps are switched in series for the 240V PSU and in parallel for the 120V PSU. So, when in series the combined rated voltage will be 480V and 240V when in parallel.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19541 on: April 25, 2018, 06:21:07 PM »
  Zalmoxis:
  Did you get my PM?
  If anyone on this thread wants to talk with me, my Whatsapp number is 506 8673-9543. Costa Rica.
  I don't use skype.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19542 on: April 25, 2018, 06:28:18 PM »
The caps are switched in series for the 240V PSU and in parallel for the 120V PSU. So, when in series the combined rated voltage will be 480V and 240V when in parallel.

  Ok, thanks. I'll see if I can find the right combination of load bulb(s) to limit supply voltage to the feed back circuit with about 150v, or so.
  The feed back PS is drawing a huge load, just by itself. And also has a load resistor that controls the circuit so that there is always a load on it, even without any bulbs on.

Hoppy

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19543 on: April 25, 2018, 06:45:59 PM »
  Ok, thanks. I'll see if I can find the right combination of load bulb(s) to limit supply voltage to the feed back circuit with about 150v, or so.
  The feed back PS is drawing a huge load, just by itself. And also has a load resistor that controls the circuit so that there is always a load on it, even without any bulbs on.

Nick,

I'm not getting that. The PS cannot draw a load, only power a load. I think you may be trying to say that the feedback PSU appears to be heavily loading the device output? What is in fact happening, is that the device output is insufficient to adequately and continuously power the PSU.

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #19544 on: April 25, 2018, 07:35:43 PM »
    Hoppy:
   The 240v caps that I replaced on my PS came out of my previous 120v- 240v PS.  They are the same value caps that came on my 120v PS. The 240v unit's caps are not higher in value, but are the same value.

  Itsu:  How is it possible to see both the HV and the grenade output BOTH on the same scope setting?
First image of Stalker's scope shot.
  Is this something that I can do on my scope? Or not?
  This is what I can do on my scope. Second image.
  I understand that Stalker is using a controllable Kacher circuit, and I am using the simple Kacher circuit.
But, I'd like to be able to see both HV, and grenade outputs, (to match both frequencies at the same time). Which I have not been able to do, like Stalker is showing.

 


Nick,

yes you can do the same, as you have done before already, see your second screenshot above



that screenshot upper part shows the yellow kacher signal (892Khz), and the blue Grenade signal (27.9Khz).

As you do not burst the kacher on / off, you see a streamed signal of the kacher, not the bursts as in Stalkers screenshot.

Here you used the zoom function to zoom in (lower part), but you started of with the upper screen settings, so do again the same and
leave the zoom function off

Itsu