Void,
i did not measure the chokes resistance, but can do that when i try with schottky diodes, but as they do not get hot they seem OK.

Hi Itsu. No, that is not necessary. I was just basing my comment on your previous comment above:
"The inductor get the most hottest at about 60°C and climbing."

However, I think now maybe you meant the so called 'inductor winding' on the grenade, rather than the coils (inductors) in your non-dissipative snubbers...
In my case the coils at 24V seem to be only getting maybe just a little warm, around 25C to maybe 30C at the most
if running for a long time. I also have been monitoring component temperatures with an infrared thermometer.

I think I have solved the problem with using that 10uF cap at V+.
Either it was a bad capacitor, or it is not good to use a 10uF at the toroid center tap (V+) point.
I discovered the 10uF cap was also getting very hot. I removed it and tried a much
larger value electrolytic cap instead, and, so far, no further issues.


Welcome back Jeg. Long time no talk.
Yes, the Verpies toroid winding setup may be a good setup if someone wants to spend the time on it.
I think some people may prefer to keep their setups simpler where possible. I do anyway.
I was just posting a lot of details about my snubber tests because some people have been having overheating issues.
I have also posted suggestions on how to solve snubber overheating problems, so solutions are posted
here for anyone who is having snubber overheating issues. 

Yes, I found it interesting and useful learning about different types of snubber circuits.
I have already determined a snubber solution that should be workable for me, so I will be moving on to other things now.

All the best...

Hi Jeg,

nice to see you are still around.


Void,

yes, i was meaning the inductor around the grenade that gets 60°C, not the 1mH chokes.
Good to see you have found the heating problem with the 10uF cap.


Nick,

try to collect the non dissipative snubber components, i think it might do the job for you too.



Itsu

   Itsu:
   Thanks for the video.
   However, you are testing the heating of the snubber resistors and components using only a 40w bulb as a load.
   It would be better if you were to place a 400w load of bulbs on, instead. As I also don't have much heating when using only a small 50w bulb. But, not so when I use several 200w
 
   The most important thing, is not to loose the "effect". But, without a kacher, you won't know if this snubber system is really working, or not. As the wave forms and spike taming is only part of what is needed for these systems.

   apecore: How are you making out? Long time without any news from you.

 

Hi Nick,
I m doing fine so now and then working at the bench.

I leave the snubber part for what it is... i don't have a heating/ destructive spike issue.
Altough i m not using the lossless Verpies clamp anymore or any snubber circuit i can lite 100w bulb almost full power without excess heating of FET's

From my own point of view i do believe that correct and using short wire leads for Pushpull/Yoke is most critical to manage bad ringing.
As i said... i will jump in at the moment  the selfrunner chapter starts.

By the way... good work on the snubbers...Void, Itsu and AG..i would say you delivered a lot of info and test results for a " snubber manual" .

Best regards

   apecore:
   Thanks for the reply.
   Interesting that you can light a 100w bulb with no snubbers on, and no overheating. 
But, if you don't have any additional light when the Kacher is on, using your 3 100w bulbs, then there is something wrong.
So, do you have any sync between the Kacher and induction circuits, or not?
And what happens when you try to light all three of your 100w bulbs. Do you still have the sync and additional light then?
   Why did you stop using the lossless clamp?

   Jeg: Thanks for your reply. You two guys have built up a nice devices, but it looks like you are both stuck at some point.

   Once we get past the snubber circuit part, we can get back to trying to get these things to self run. I hope...
   
   So, please stick around, both of you.  We need all the help we can get.  At least now Geo is posting again.
   For a while I was about the only one working on this, along with Itsu, that is. I could not do it without his help.
   Although I've been busy lately, I'll do what I can to get the non dissapative snubber working, and take it from there.
   And yes, it does seam like there may be something missing in all the posted schematics and diagrams.
And that's why we need to continue on, until we find what is really needed or missing for these builds.

thanks itsu
this page is interesting
http://energyscience.ru/topic58.html

with 200 watts output
https://yadi.sk/i/3lckSbfK3JP9PP

  soliman:
  Welcome. Your results sound interesting. And that you are using the Stalker circuit, using no snubbers and have no mosfet over heating problems.
  Can you mention what type of load you have on, and what type of mosfets you are using?
 Your drain signal spikes are over 300v, yet you mentioned that the mosfets are NOT heating up.
Sounds too good to be true. But, I hope that the fets can stay cool even at higher loads as well.
   
   I was also using the Stalker circuit that has no snubbers, at first. But, my fets were getting too hot. My spikes were going over 350v with no snubbers on at all.
   
  To me your signals look great. They are similar to mine, and as I have mentioned previously, some ringing on the flat top of the square wave signal is needed.
   However, it would be good to know and understand the reason why your fets aren't getting hot, even without any snubbers.
As that is one of the main problems and issues that some of us are having here now. 
  As far as my circuit goes, the bigger and higher wattage bulbs used as the load, the hotter the snubbers, or fets get.
  So, it's good to see that your results are different. Perhaps you can post a picture or a video of your device.
 
   Below is a scope shot of Stalker's drain and gate signal.
 
                                                                                                                                            NickZ

In that Stalker scopeshot above, there seems to be something strange going on. Because it appears that the Drain signal turns cleanly ON (goes low and stops ringing) about 5 us _before_ the Gate signal goes HIGH. There is a little switching transient on the Gate signal right at that point but it doesn't look like it could be sufficient to turn its transistor on so cleanly.

TK,

that phenomenon you point at was extensively researched way back in this thread here:

http://overunity.com/12736/kapanadze-cousin-dally-free-energy/msg475096/#msg475096

The conclusion was:

Drain voltage is not a good indicator whether the MOSFET is ON !
The proper indicator is the current flowing through the Drain of this MOSFET.

So unless we have a trace of the current through the MOSFET we can not determine via the voltage on the drain the correct moment the MOSFET turns on or off.


Itsu

That's as may be.... I can perhaps understand how the Drain voltage or current could _lag behind_ the Gate signal, but how in the world does any mosfet know to turn ON _before_ the gate signal rises above the threshold voltage? Is it predicting the future?
Drain voltage -- that is, the voltage drop across the Drain-Source -- goes low when the Gate charge has risen to and goes above the Miller plateau. The scopeshot above shows the Drain voltage going low well _before_ the Gate charge even begins to rise. How can this be?