note this pic your wanting to remove oscillations all you need to get rid of are the spikes you need to keep the ringing ! or just give up because your destroying what you need ! YOUR DISTROYING THE DIPOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its why your getting no where, got it now ?

It might be an idea to increase the ringing to obtain more F you can do this by reducing the on time. got it ?

PS why is red waveform off when it should be on / is it inverted ?

In your scope shot you have no ringing rail to rail you have half on half off OVER HEATING your Ferox is useless you need to select a better quality Ferox they make acceptable ones in the factory at Hungary  perhaps its resonance but it needs to be rail to rail like in your internet link pic I put up it's been 5 years now try it. from an Educational point of view.

It's used in power frequency multipliers in circuits used in amateur radio transmitters and repeaters it works! Isn't that what your building? besides that just playing with the modules is ok from an educational point of view but making a device and using it isI'm told is illegal  so I won't be publishing too much thanks. So I will let you guys get on and play with the corrupt disciplines

Nick,

this is no good, i only see some spikes on your drains now.
What we should see is ideally a square wave like signal with perhaps some little spike on turnoff time.
Instead i now see NO swithed square wave at all, only a spike.


Not sure what you did, but we where half way in a snubber calculation procedure, please try to focus on that first.  Where you able to half the ringing frequency?
And for the 4th time:  are you running your inductor / wima cap in resonance???   I know it shows about 16.5Khz, but is that the resonance frequency?

Itsu

Hi Void,

The spark gap idea is maybe a mystery but as i can imagine that those spark gaps do spark at best when using a DC voltage.
This makes maybe some more sense in order to get the grenade charged?

Also in your first posted picture we see a kind of orange cilinder (at the right of the picture) does someone know or can we speculate what that might be....  looks to ma as a kind of big capacitor.

greetngs

Blue or violet silent spark indicate that energy is moved elsewhere.

Hi Void,

The spark gap idea is maybe a mystery but as i can imagine that those spark gaps do spark at best when using a DC voltage.
This makes maybe some more sense in order to get the grenade charged?

Also in your first posted picture we see a kind of orange cilinder (at the right of the picture) does someone know or can we speculate what that might be....  looks to ma as a kind of big capacitor.

greetngs

Hi apecore. I am not sure what you mean by the orange cylinder, but the can on the very  right hand side
is something like a tobacco can or similar, with a switch mounted on top to switch on the power to the load.
This can is likely housing some basic electronics circuitry.

The soft steady violet glow on the sparkgap looks exactly like low current discharge from high voltage, high frequency AC.
In this video the sparkgap was not pulsing, and it did not have the more whitish glow typical of high current.

The lamp brightness v lamp power rating and the true power rating of those lamps which has been questioned on the Russian forums. The current reading being accurate. Most importantly, that the estimated 12V / 6.5A was the the only source of supply. Nothing seen in his video demonstrations can be used for COP evaluation with any degree of confidence IMO.

Hi Hoppy. Sure, there could always be hidden wires, etc., in any of these type of videos,
but my comments were based on making the assumption that Kapanadze's devices do produce OU.
In that case, the COP appears to be at least 10 (very conservative estimate) and possibly as high as 60 or so.
Those were big honking incandescent light bulbs he was lighting up very brightly in that video.

   Itsu:
   I don't know what happened. But, the shape of the square wave changes according to the frequency and duty cycle settings.
   In placing the snubber caps, that shape is what I got. Even with just two 222 capacitors on the snubbers. So, I'm looking into it, but there seams to be no way of dropping the spike without also dropping the ringing.  In any case, I'll see what I can do about it.
   My new fets are being brought to me today, so I'll install them later tonight. Perhaps the older (also fairly new) fets have been damaged now, also.  I don't know, but I'll install the new ones today in any case.
    The Siglent scope has not made it to me yet.
    I have not deviated from what we are doing. But, those are my results so far.  I don't like them, either.
    I also need to drop the ringing by more than what you were able to do on your set up, as your voltages aren't low enough for my 200v fets. Maybe you can see what happens to your square wave form shape when you drop your peaks down further.
    Yes, that is the best resonant point for me, at about 16.7KHz, taking those reading at the gates. There are also some other resonant points, but with lower outputs.
   However, to tune the TL board at the fet's drain obtains a certain fre/duty/voltage reading at what looks to be their best setting. But, tuning the TL board by reading the inductor/cap reading on the 3t coil is a different story. So, I set the best working frequency at the inductor/cap, for the most OUTPUT. And also on the fet's snubber drain settings, for the best wave form to obtain some use able output at the bulb.
   How do you think that it should it be done, if not like that?   
   As tuning this thing, now,  is no easy matter.

   Itsu:
   I don't know what happened. The shape of the square wave changes according to the frequency and duty cycle settings.
   In placing the snubber caps, that shape is what I got. I'm looking into it, but there seams to be no way of dropping the spike without also dropping the ringing.  I'll see what I can do about it.
   My new fets are being brought to me today, so I'll install them later tonight. Perhaps the older (also fairly new) fets have been damaged now, also.  I don't know, but I'll install the new ones today in any case.
    The Siglent scope has not made it to me yet.
    I have not deviated from what we are doing. But, those are my results so far.  I also need to drop the ringing by more than what you were able to do on your set up, as your voltages aren't low enough for my 200v fets. Maybe try to see what happens to your square wave form shape when you drop your peaks down further.
    Yes, that is the best resonant point for me, at about 16.7KHz. There are also some other resonant points, but with lower outputs.

the only way to damp the spike is with a device that conducts at a preset voltage like a VDR or Zener oe 1.5k device got it ! large caps across the Drain to earth m ess up the frequency response the truth is you need a better quality ferox toroid to do what your doing junk from old EU Chinese monitors are low permeability sling it and get a better one,

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