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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY  (Read 11717634 times)

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17520 on: July 25, 2017, 02:48:19 PM »
Nick,

i agree with TK about the frequency; 16.6Khz, looking good.

Concerning the drain turnoff signal being rounded off, thats exactly the same is i showed in my latest video to you (linked here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDehKNbtoEA&t=364s )
where at time 5.33 i show my both MOSFETs drain / gate signals, see screenshot 1 below.
Yellow and Blue  are gate/drain from MOSFET 1,
purple and green are gate/drain from MOSFET 2.

This rounded off does NOT go away by:

# adding drain to source pull-down resistors (1K, 10K, 56K)
# lowering the pull-down resistor at the TL494 outputs to 100 Ohm (68 Ohm is the minimum according to the data sheet)
# lowering the link resistor between TL494 output and MOSFET driver input to 10 Ohm
# adding a parallel schottky diode across the resistor between MOSFET driver output and gate (anode to gate)

It does go away by using instead of the 10K drain load resistors some 12V automotive bulbs, but it introduces already some spikes, see screenshot 2
again:
Yellow and Blue  are gate/drain from MOSFET 1,
purple and green are gate/drain from MOSFET 2.
 
Concerning the dead time, like TK mentioned, try to put on both drains or both gates to compare, 44% seems reasonable to me.

How about the MOSFETs, are they getting hot now still?

Regards Itsu


« Last Edit: July 25, 2017, 07:20:07 PM by itsu »

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17521 on: July 25, 2017, 05:19:46 PM »
OK, sounds like things are working fine, so far.
Using calctool gives me 16.667KHz. So, that also compares with your frequency calculations. Great. So I am in the needed frequency ranges. Next will.be to connect the TL/UC drivers to the rest of the yoke/grenade system,  and check for MOSFET overheating. If the FETs stay cool, I'll connect the Kacher up also. Then see about matching their frequencies.
  I'll post some more scope shots after I connect up the rest of the yoke and grenade circuits.
  Thanks a lot for your help guys. I wish that you were both working on this project, as well, so that we could compare the results.

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17522 on: July 25, 2017, 09:10:53 PM »

Nick,

be aware that without any snubbers on the drains, you very probably will see some nasty spikes when probing your drains.
At 24V input, those spikes could easily peak to over 200V which is your MOSFETs max drain voltage and could in the long run cause damage to your MOSFETs even without them getting hot.

Use short runs and monitor the drains.   When over 200V peaks are detected, you need to start thinking of using snubbers to divert those peaks or use the lossless clamp design.

 
Itsu

MonsieurX

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17523 on: July 26, 2017, 06:34:39 PM »
After reading you, I will start something.
As I see you work on mounts with TL494, I like it.
I have seen that are differents model, what kind of TL494 may i use ?.
Can you tell me the 2 diagrams to realize, because there are many assemblies and I do not have your experience to avoid such a montage that works badly.
My oscilloscope is a HAMEG 303-6 2 X 35 Mhz. Digital multimeter and frequency meter.
If you live in Europe, where do you order your components?
Here we have CONRAD, but a little expensive.
Questions: I see a Nanoseconde generator, but a TL494 can not work at 1 Ghz, despite my reads I do not understand. If you can enlighten me.
I have not Yok from old TV.
Thank you.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17524 on: July 26, 2017, 07:15:35 PM »
   X:
   The TL494 circuit is only for the push pull generator. It needs to work from 10KHz to 30KHz, or so.
Kacher circuit is for the high frequency impulses,

apecore

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17525 on: July 26, 2017, 08:56:05 PM »
After reading you, I will start something.
As I see you work on mounts with TL494, I like it.
I have seen that are differents model, what kind of TL494 may i use ?.
Can you tell me the 2 diagrams to realize, because there are many assemblies and I do not have your experience to avoid such a montage that works badly.
My oscilloscope is a HAMEG 303-6 2 X 35 Mhz. Digital multimeter and frequency meter.
If you live in Europe, where do you order your components?
Here we have CONRAD, but a little expensive.
Questions: I see a Nanoseconde generator, but a TL494 can not work at 1 Ghz, despite my reads I do not understand. If you can enlighten me.
I have not Yok from old TV.
Thank you.


Mister X,

Your from France i believe?
I live couple  hundred miles Nord of France, i purchase mostly China now but TME.com of maybe TME.fr is also better then Conrad.

Please try to read some topics in this thread and try to make yourself a approach based on your theorie, from this point of view maybe better to start discussion then let you begin at start as many did before you and stopped already.


succes,
Apecore

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17526 on: July 26, 2017, 10:11:50 PM »
   Itsu:
   Below is one of my drain signals, running from my 24v PSU, now.
   With the yoke connected to the TL494, and only the 3t coil on the yoke connected up. No connection between the yoke secondary 28t coil to the grenade 168t output coil. The grenade 168t output coil is only connected to the full bridge rectifier, going to a 10w 120v bulb as the load. Ground line is connected to the 168t coil (output side), and also to the TL/UC circuits. Volts/Div set at 20.
   Running only for two seconds in order to take the picture, one fet starts to heat up. It would probably go up in smoke in one minutes running time. The other fet is cool at least when running for only a few seconds. NO light at the 10w bulb.
   Although the spikes are not over 120v or so, the fet still heats up. This is with almost full duty cycle and running at the same 16.67KHz, as yesterday. Lowering the duty cycle does bring down the spikes somewhat.

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17527 on: July 26, 2017, 10:49:56 PM »
Nick,

Not sure how your configuration is right now, do you have only connected to your TL494/UC/MOSFET the yoke with the 2x 12 turns primaries
while the 3 turn and 28 turn secondaries are left open?
 
its hard to see, but it looks like i see a 40V square like wave which has a sharp (100V) spike ontop of it during the MOSFET turnoff time followed by some ringing.

How does the other MOSFET (staying cool) drain signal looks like? Can you put on the both signals at the same time?
Can you expand the ringing and tell me the time between 2 of the ringing signal tops (see diagram)?

Itsu

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17528 on: July 27, 2017, 05:14:06 PM »
    Itsu and All:
    I've connected up both of my induction circuits up now to my 24v power supply, and I am getting some light at the bulb(s).
The one fet is still getting pretty hot after a while, the other fet is not so hot, but depending on the frequency it also can get hot as well. Both drains signals look about the same on the scope.
 
   I'm tuning the system up now to see what it can do. I have not fired up the Kacher yet, but I will later today.
   I'm still getting those spikes on the drains though, but possibly not so bad as before. But, I still need to deal with that issue now.
   I'll post some more scope shots soon, after I do some more tuning. 
   I was up to 1:30 am last night working on this, and so I'm feeling pretty tired this morning.

   Mr.X:  You might want to check out this video by Ruslan (below). It is fairly informative, if you can understand Russian.
 I can only understand a fraction of it.
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd3ND7R0mFs&feature=youtu.be

   There are many ways to go about connecting these devices up. And no one can tell you exactly which way is the one that will lead to a self running device. So, you must test these things out for yourself to see what works for you.
   One of the first things to do is to build or buy the TL494 circuit. There are already commercially ready made TL494 circuit boards for sale on Ebay, for very cheap prices. I would recommend that you try out one of those circuits, first. There is one PCB which has the duty cycle and frequency controller already installed on it.  It can save you some time, expense and frustration.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 10:18:13 PM by NickZ »

MonsieurX

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17529 on: July 27, 2017, 09:58:30 PM »
Hello,
What do you think this one, the prize is correct.
Juste add potentiomètre for frequency adjust.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/150W-Simple-TL494-Drive-Inverter-Booster-Circuit-Board-DC-12V-To-AC-220V-For-Students-Graduation/32702714554.html
Regards.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17530 on: July 28, 2017, 03:53:55 PM »
  Mr. X:
   The link that you placed to that TL494 circuit looks interesting. But, is only for 12v, and 150W. It might be worth trying out.

  This TL494 board (below) can handle 24v. It's also very cheap, only $5, free shipping, and was already tested by Itsu and was found to work ok with our set up.
   
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/TL494-KA7500-DC-9V-25V-Driver-Board-DC-DC-Converter-Inverter-Boost-Module-PWM/181449170972?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41451%26meid%3Da21e8f78e99c4541832e9a49304da384%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D232115117269
 
  Itsu's video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0Xr-gmFjFY

   However, there is a new TL board now, that has both frequency and duty cycle controls incorporated into it, and is also very small and cheap. If I can find it again, I'll place a link to it.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17531 on: July 28, 2017, 04:08:01 PM »
    Itsu:
   You mentioned:
   "This rounded off does NOT go away by:

# adding drain to source pull-down resistors (1K, 10K, 56K)
# lowering the pull-down resistor at the TL494 outputs to 100 Ohm (68 Ohm is the minimum according to the data sheet)
# lowering the link resistor between TL494 output and MOSFET driver input to 10 Ohm
# adding a parallel schottky diode across the resistor between MOSFET driver output and gate (anode to gate)
                                                                                                                                                                 end qoute.

   But, I am more concerned about the drain spikes, and what to do about that, instead.
  Poster Jed or Jeg (don't remember his name), did not get rid of those spikes when he used a snubber, or even when he changed his yoke to Verpies lossless clamp winding method.
  And apecore had to reverse some windings to get his lossless clamp set up working properly, also.
   What advice do you have. As my fets are still heating up, probably due to the spikes, even though they don't go to over 200v.
This gate spike problem seams to affect most of us. Any good suggestions for some snubbers that work well to filter thoses spikes,  would be appreciated
And, yes itsu, you're the most experienced at snubbers, and avoiding spikes. Good to have you here.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2017, 09:31:58 PM by NickZ »

arhitrade

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17532 on: July 29, 2017, 06:56:02 AM »
Parametric change of inductance in a RL-circuit. EMF - http://gorchilin.com/articles/energy/RLC_3?lang=en

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17533 on: July 29, 2017, 11:02:37 AM »

Nick,

the "rounded off" drain signal was when "playing" with resistors as the load, now that you have moved on to Coils (yoke) as a load we are
playing a totally different ball game.


Therefor my questions in this post #17534:
http://overunity.com/12736/kapanadze-cousin-dally-free-energy/msg508585/#msg508585

Please try to answer them, then we could start building a simple RC snubber to see how that effects your spikes / heating


Itsu

AlienGrey

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17534 on: July 29, 2017, 03:26:57 PM »
Nick,

the "rounded off" drain signal was when "playing" with resistors as the load, now that you have moved on to Coils (yoke) as a load we are
playing a totally different ball game.


Therefor my questions in this post #17534:
http://overunity.com/12736/kapanadze-cousin-dally-free-energy/msg508585/#msg508585

Please try to answer them, then we could start building a simple RC snubber to see how that effects your spikes / heating.
Itsu
Just feed both push pull drains into an Ultra fast pair of HV such as diodes UF1007 with a cap to zero volts 2.2 n perhaps then into your 180 1.5k VDR zener and another larger cap back into your 12 volt supply (don't wast it). I don't know Itsu has all this equipment (H T Moray) had naff all and still, he is no wiser and on OUR too, they wouldn't let me on but then I'm not a film producer ;) or he wouldn't say (there isn't any zero point energy) is that a fact ? really.

I'm not so sure it's all bull shit at all if your hand fisted and impatient don't 'take your time' you're never going to find the secret.

 No offence just get on with it, but don't do so rigid on what some folk tell you on here and buying up obsolete junk to interface this hardware is just a state of sheer desperation been there done that got nowhere ;)

AG