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Author Topic: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY  (Read 11718287 times)

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17385 on: June 12, 2017, 09:30:14 PM »
Nick,

i  believe you are using the below shown TL494 circuit, please confirm.

I build it on a breadboard using the same components (20K instead of the 10K pot, 10nF cap instead of the 8200pF).

Pin 3 is floating, but when connecting it to pins 2, 13,14, 15, it shuts down the output signals.

With the frequency pot to max frequency (30KHz), and the duty cycle pot to max (45%) i get the screenshot 1 output signals.
With the frequency pot to max frequency (30KHz), and the duty cycle pot to min (0.45%) i get the screenshot 2 output signals.


These signals are fairly stable, so not dropping or having oscillations when turning across the pots ranges, however look at the ground levels.

Ooops,  my TL494 was running on 4.7V or so, therefor these low signal
The floating seems to come from the 1K resistors, they are to high, probably lower value resistors will fix this.

Will do some further tests tomorrow.
 
     
i would suggest to turn to another circuit, preferrable the one shown by verpies with the 3 pots (frequency, duty cycle and dead time):
http://overunity.com/12736/kapanadze-cousin-dally-free-energy/msg502495/#msg502495

Regards Itsu

penno64

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17386 on: June 12, 2017, 10:32:20 PM »

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17387 on: June 13, 2017, 12:22:34 AM »
  And if you perfect the system, you end up with what Vasmus has shown.

   Itsu, well well, I must thank you for doing such tests on the TL494. Much appreciated.
   The circuit that I built was a combination of three different circuits diagrams. I started with what we call the TopRuslan 7 video device information and schematic. But, since I had the same or similar problem with fet overheating and firing at the same time.
I then tried the PinoyTech way of connecting up the TL494. But combined with what Stalker is doing, and what Ruslan had done.
So, it's a hydrid TL494 to TC4430 circuit, test. And I'm still testing...

   I suspected that on your previous video, that the reason you kept the 45% or so duty cycle, steady there, NOT turning it too much. Was due to the same reason. And perhaps other guys have had the same issues, and may be part of why we get no where.

    Yes, I can verifiy that I can do the same thing, and show the same type of controlled square wave, as you just posted.
       HOWEVER,
             and it's a BIG However,  the rest of the system does not work as it should. Or at least as I was hoping. And as you have seen, neither does yours. Especially when connecting it all up to the rest of the whole set up.
   So, I ask myself WHY? What is wrong with my third try at this type of circuit? As ALL three TL494 that I've built all mess up the signal, big time, and then burn all my fets, smoke my several in line chokes, etz...and, I don't have much hair on my head left to pull.
   So...What to do? 
   Build the 4th TL494 circuit... you say...
   I don't know about that, But... I'll get to the bottom of this. One way or another.
   Maybe circuit 4 will be my lucky number. A winner, for a change.

   Itsu: Thanks again for the test. 
   Yes, I can verify that we are probably seeing the same or similar loss of signals, and especially the loss of output signal at pin 9 and 10, of the TL494 chip.  I think that there is where we/I should take a closer look. As to what can or should be done to modify that same circuit.  As mine already looks like a burnt up cutting board, from all the repairs and mods. But, it works, just like yours...
  Just a question if you remember. Did your previous TL494 builds smoke up the fets, like mine used to do? I'm hoping that it won't do it so bad, any more.

   I'm going to connect my contraption all back up to the grenade and kacher, and turn off all the lights... and turn it on...
 for some fireworks.

   TK:  I hope that you're tuning in today, I know how you like fireworks. I won't disappoint you...
   Could be a dud, though...

  As TK had mentioned, the Texas Instruments TL494 is best. It cost 4 times more than the knockoffs, but... It's probably worth it. At least for what we need it for. 

  This Pinoytech design below is how my TL494 circuit is currently set up. Just the TL circuit, though.
Keeping in mind that all these untested circuit diagrams, schematics, images and even videos can come as a can of worms. Only one way to know if it works, is to build it.

seychelles

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17388 on: June 13, 2017, 01:26:27 AM »
HI MATE WHERE CAN I BUY THIS PCB.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17389 on: June 13, 2017, 01:45:05 AM »
  I don't know where or if the pinoytech design is available from him, or not. As he has not been posting after he put up the whole collection of the images of his design on this thread, it's a take off from the TopRuslan 7  (Oleg) design. And it was similar to what I  am building up on a single board, but in my own way.
   

AlienGrey

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17390 on: June 13, 2017, 07:50:29 AM »
HI MATE WHERE CAN I BUY THIS PCB.
WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO DO THAT ?

for a start it has no way of syncing the EHT section with the with the card (no output) and for another, you have no way of feeding the output spikes from the drain back into the system, and for another, you will have to make the card for yourself.

No thanks!

itsu

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17391 on: June 13, 2017, 10:38:44 AM »
Nick,

Quote
Yes, I can verifiy that I can do the same thing, and show the same type of controlled square wave, as you just posted.
HOWEVER,  and it's a BIG However,  the rest of the system does not work as it should. Or at least as I was hoping. And as you have seen, neither does yours. Especially when connecting it all up to the rest of the whole set up.



So you have right now the same circuit as put up in my last post, is that including the 1K output resistors? (i thought you lowered them as verpies pointed that out)
The floating output signals should be fixed.

Do not connect up the rest of the system, first try to get a stable TL494 circuit to work with.

Does it still show dropping outputs and/or oscillations when turning the pots?
Do you have a 0.1uF ceramic cap right across the TL494 plus / minus leads (pins 7 and 12)?

What are these red circled resistors values's?   i see 1KOhm, whats the other and how are they connected up (1K's to ground, other to TC4420?).


Itsu

verpies

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17392 on: June 13, 2017, 11:50:57 AM »
Pin 3 is floating, but when connecting it to pins 2, 13,14, 15, it shuts down the output signals.
Of course because on that schematic diagram, pins 2&15 are connected to pin 14 and on my schematic they are not.

The floating seems to come from the 1K resistors, they are to high, probably lower value resistors will fix this.
Yes, if taking the output signals from pins 9 and 10 then these pins must be grounded through smaller resistors.
I recommend these resistors to be around R=VCC*10, where VCC is the voltage between pin 7 and pins 8&11.

verpies

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17393 on: June 13, 2017, 12:27:39 PM »
I suspected that on your previous video, that the reason you kept the 45% or so duty cycle, steady there, NOT turning it too much. Was due to the same reason. And perhaps other guys have had the same issues, and may be part of why we get no where.
There is no mystery in the driving circuit, i.e. the TL494 + TC4420 or its duty cycle.
The mystery can be only with the components driven by it, especially with the large inductors/transmission lines.

What is wrong with my third try at this type of circuit? As ALL three TL494 that I've built all mess up the signal, big time,
The TL494 does not mess up the signal - it generates it.
Only the components down the signal path can mess it up.

and then burn all my fets, smoke my several in line chokes, etz...and, I don't have much hair on my head left to pull.
So...What to do? 
Do the due diligence.
Starting with scoping the VGS vs. VDS of your MOSFETs.  Several members and I gave already explained to you how to do it.

First do it with light bulbs connected to the final MOSFETs as a load and next, switch to the full "grenade" as a load .

P.S.
...and fix your scope by yourself - using TK's instructions preferably...

TinselKoala

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17394 on: June 13, 2017, 03:15:43 PM »
Of course because on that schematic diagram, pins 2&15 are connected to pin 14 and on my schematic they are not.
Yes, if taking the output signals from pins 9 and 10 then these pins must be grounded through smaller resistors.
I recommend these resistors to be around R=VCC*10, where VCC is the voltage between pin 7 and pins 8&11.

I doubt that the 1k pulldowns on the 494 emitter outputs are causing the problems. The 1k value works fine in my build of the verpies/stalker/TK(me) driver circuit.

Of course, this "assumes" that a stable voltage is being supplied to the collector inputs (pins 8 and 11).

The system can also work with grounded emitters (pins 9 and 10) and pullUPs on collectors with the signal to mosfet driver chips being taken from the collectors.

verpies

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17395 on: June 13, 2017, 03:45:32 PM »
The system can also work with grounded emitters (pins 9 and 10) and pullUPs on collectors with the signal to mosfet driver chips being taken from the collectors.
Yes, that is also possible, when "active low" pulses are desired, ...as with inverting gate drivers driving N-Ch MOSFETs.
The TL494 is a flexible chip.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17396 on: June 13, 2017, 05:29:49 PM »
    Itsu:
   The Stalker diagram that you posted, is not the same as the connections on the Pinoytech set up for the TL494 part of the circuit.
  I had previously tried the Stalker way of doing it, also, but it produced the same problem as the previous TopRuslan 7 set up. Which is where Stalkers circuit idea came from, in any case. So... please look at the Pinoy's layout of the TL494 part of the blue PCB circuit that I just posted in my second to last post, but I removed it afterwards due to oversize.  As that is how I have the TL circuit part connected up.
   My resistors are all 1000 ohm even though the red painted strip is almost orange on two of them, they are are also 1k. I'm trying to stick with the schematics. I did previously follow Verpie's advice and had lower value resistors on. Like 460 ohm to ground, and 10 ohm to the fet drivers. But, I changed those to new resistors as in the Stalker diagram that you just posted.
  Yes, I'm still getting interference of some sort on my scope signals from the gates, not as bad, perhaps. But, it's hard to tell exactly.
  I connected the grounds all together now, as in the STAR formation, to my earth ground line. That helps a little, but not really well enough. The fets are staying cold, so far. But, I have no output at 3t or 168t coils, as yet. Yoke is connected to the fets, and to the 24v power supply. And the grounds are all connected together in the star formation to my earth ground now. Since the cause of the problem may be bad grounding between all the circuits. At least that is what I'm checking on now.

  Sorry TK last nights tests were a dud. No fireworks... 
  Well actually, I did have another filter cap blow in my face like a big firecracker. You would have enjoyed seeing that, maybe.
It was my fault though, as I placed the wrong value cap as a filter cap by accident, somehow. Been having lots of accidents, lately. Working late at night with low lighting levels.

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17397 on: June 13, 2017, 05:59:33 PM »
Of course because on that schematic diagram, pins 2&15 are connected to pin 14 and on my schematic they are not.
Yes, if taking the output signals from pins 9 and 10 then these pins must be grounded through smaller resistors.
I recommend these resistors to be around R=VCC*10, where VCC is the voltage between pin 7 and pins 8&11.

   On my second try,  I installed 470 ohms resistors to ground, along with 10 ohms to the fets, as to your suggestion. No improvement nor difference, the scope signals were getting messed up then also. So, I went to the Stalker way of doing it, but, again, but with similar results. Now I have 1k resistors to ground, and 10 ohms to the fets. But, I think that the problem lies in the duty cycle circuit. Something is not right there. Any ideas, other than making a whole new board,
   Verpies, your diagram may work better, but remember that most all of the self runners are using the TL494/TC4420 drivers system, connected in the way that I have it. Which does seam to be working slightly better now. But, still not right.
   My scope Tektronics 2205 model does not have the trigger function controls settings that you mention. As does the video you linked to of the 2225 20MHz scope. My signals are set to DC now, but it makes no difference nor improvements in the signals.

  Please don't be concerned about my scope being blurry. I'll fix it when I can, but, that is not my main concern at the moment.
It works for what I need it to do, for now. What I'd really rather do is buy a new scope, one that does do the math, and is less than 30 years old. But, that is also not possible for me at this time. Nor do I want to be left without any scope if the fix only makes it even worse, and not use able. Believe me, I can make it worse. 

  Why is pin #3 of the TC4420 left open on Stalker's diagram. Should mine be left open, as well? It's connected to pin 2 now.

   Check Ruslan's (all in one box) 4000w output circuit, below. Notice the TL494 and possible TC4420 on the board.
That is where Stalker and most all the other guys are getting their ideas from. From Oleg. Where is that guy, now?
He must of gotten paid to shut the F up, or not,  and maybe just threatened, if he keeps  it up, and making it public through Ruslan.
   Stalker's is a more simplified circuit design, but basically the same thing, Adrian, as well, etz... Oh, and the Pinoytech design is also based on Ruslan's schematic. So, I'm following the same path, with your help, of course.
   TopRuslan 7 schematic (below) which I originally started to replicate, as it was the easiest to follow and understand for me.
   

TinselKoala

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17398 on: June 13, 2017, 07:04:31 PM »
Pin 3 of the 4420 is "NC" meaning no connection. It has no function in the chip. It is "probably" OK to wire it together with the Pin 2 logic input, but just to be sure, I'd recommend leaving it not connected to anything on your builds.

When in doubt, check the Data Sheet...    ;)

NickZ

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Re: Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY
« Reply #17399 on: June 13, 2017, 07:55:47 PM »
  Ok, thanks TK, I did check but the difference schematics show pin 3 connected to pin 2, like I have it. But, some don't. Any way, it looks like it can work both ways, open or connected. I'm just trying to figure out where any interference might be caused. 
As the Pinoytech circuit does include all kinds of filters, everywhere. And I suppose that they must be there for a purpose.
Or maybe overkill? As Stalker does not use as many filters, as well needing less of some of the other components, as compared to the Ruslan (Oleg) type of circuits.
  The tricky part is figuring out what is missing in possibly all the different versions, that is, the missing link that will allow for self running. And not just a properly running TL board and driver circuits, but everything in the whole device working in sync.

   Below is what Ruslan's push pull driver (previous to the first image, "all in one box"), showing what his voltage regulators, and filters looked like at that time.
  As well as his simple Kacher circuit, which I have replicated, and am now still using.